On Thursday 17 March 2016 22:57:06 Gene Heskett wrote: Ping? > Greetings; > > This one is a 1.5 horse, 8 amps nameplate rating, air cooled which at > low speed isn't goping to work at all well anyway, and at 20 Hz drive > I am quite dissapointed in its torque, 3 or 4 oz/in when the torque > boost is disabled. I can stop and hold it between thumb and > forefinger quite easily. Turn the torque boost, range 0-4, up to > 0.5, and the apply frequency to 50Hz, about doubles the torque but > that would be of limited usefullness at a 20% duty cycle max is it > heats badly, hitting 130F at the front bearing plate in about 7 or 8 > minutes just laying on the table spinning. So I think its not going > to be terribly usefull for g33.1 tapping unless I add another 10/1 > range between the motor and the backgear input the current motor > drives. Reversing times are well subscond at 200Hz drive, so the added > gear would seem to make up the missing torque. > > I've attempted to gain access to removing the collet but have failed > as it appears to have a spanner hole equipt ring that may be setting a > bearing preload, so I am hesitant to put a wrench on the collet flats > and try to loosen it with a set of tru-arc pliers. > > Making a short stub shaft to put the existing drive gear from the OEM > motor on the stub and chucking up the 1/2" sticking out seems like a > bearing life shortener because of the amount of unsupported shaft > between the bearings and the gear. But that looks like the only > choice if the collet cannot be easily removed. That of course will > need mount extensions to make room for the gear train. All thats > do-able of course once a suitable set of gears are in hand. Boston > Gear to the rescue I suspect. > > The front, also black coated ring doesn't seem to meet the piece its > screwed to with some short 4mm screws, which when I inspected it > first, was pulled up a bit lopsided with two screws quite tight and > the third one quite loose leaving a noticeably uneven gap between the > parts. That spanner hole equiped ring on the rear of the collet > prevents its removal, as if the hole in that ring is smaller than the > spanner hole equiped nut. So it looks as if the spanner holed ring may > be the first to come off, then this stationary part behind it next, > but not knowing whats bearing preload, I didn't go any farther. > > Has anyone done that collet removal from one of these motors? And can > guide me on the procedure? I'd druther not make a $180 pile of junk > out of it.
Would it do any good to put up some pix? Maybe someone here would recognize it... Thanks. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Transform Data into Opportunity. Accelerate data analysis in your applications with Intel Data Analytics Acceleration Library. Click to learn more. http://pubads.g.doubleclick.net/gampad/clk?id=278785231&iu=/4140 _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
