On Thursday 24 May 2018 08:28:33 Kenneth Lerman wrote:

> It sounds to me like a car radiator from a junked car would make a
> perfect cooling tank and heat radiator.
>
> Ken
>
Thats a good idea, or one could get a heater core out of the junk yard, 
with a fan  blowing thru it for even more space savings.

More years ago, in my 20's, I did that for a water cooled go kart engine. 
An old gopher frame, with 2, 2 gallon tanks mounted one on each side, 
one carried water and one carried the fuel I was burning at the time, 
either gas or booze & castor oil. With the radiator, a core from an old 
nash mounted under a panel on the steering column so the hot air exited 
thru the bottom of the frame. No fan just the fwd motion of up to 120 
mph for air flow. Needed a bigger water pump, the flow was so low exit 
water was ambient temp while the water in the tank was boiling by the 
end of a 25 lap heat race. Fun days. But not truly competitive, theres 
only so much hp you can coax out of a surplus 1937 bilge pump, which was 
a 10hp johnson/evinrude engine turned horizontal. Rotary valve intake , 
all bearings hard but a deflector head design so it was all done at 7500 
revs. With lots more carb than the oem version, burning booze, maybe 25 
hp on a good evening, but at 13 cu in and water cooled it was 
automatically in the C Super class, and some of the tripled Mc's were 
making 40+ hp, on a frame 25 lbs lighter. But I had pure fun doing it.

Side comment, such experience at the bleeding edge of traction, steering 
with the throttle will make you a better driver when the excrement hits 
the fan and most folks will lose control. At 83, I have a fav corner I 
hit at about 65, drifting an 8000 lb ford pickup with the rear end 
hanging out about 18", just to keep in practice for SHTF situations.

It also applies to two wheels, as Andy knows well.
  
> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Dave Cole <linuxcncro...@gmail.com> 
wrote:
> > RV antifreeze works well for things like this.  I have been using it
> > for years in my bandsaw coolant tank.  It doesn't seem to go bad
> > even after years and it doesn't evaporate much.
> >
> > For cooling, You might want to consider making a flat tank.  Two
> > sheets of steel or alum spaced apart an inch or so and welded at the
> > edges.   That would increase your surface area for cooling while not
> > creating a huge tank volume wise.  Put the tank on edge and it won't
> > take up much space.
> >
> > On 5/22/2018 5:34 PM, Bruce Layne wrote:
> >> I've had two of the Chinese 2.2 KW water cooled spindles for the
> >> last few years and have had no trouble with them.  I consider them
> >> to be a good value.  Well worth the plumbing hassle, in my opinion.
> >>
> >> Be sure to use good quality very flexible tubing of the correct
> >> size.  I think I got 8mm outside diameter tubing from McMaster-Carr
> >> (red for supply and blue for return).  I use pink RV antifreeze as
> >> the coolant.  It's used full strength and not diluted.  I use it in
> >> the hope that it's less corrosive than water.  Neither machine's
> >> coolant has had any rust or other issues, although there was a
> >> slight film of oil that's flushed out of the spindle motor.  I'm
> >> not worried about it freezing because one of the CNC routers is in
> >> an attached garage and the other is in my basement, and neither get
> >> very cold.  I'd actually be more worried about the machine rusting
> >> if it was in a condensing environment, and the CNC routers are
> >> mostly aluminum.
> >>
> >> I mounted a thin liquid crystal thermometer on the spindle facing
> >> the operator so I can tell at a glance if the spindle overheats.
> >> These liquid crystal strip thermometers are readily available on
> >> eBay and are sold for reptile terrariums.  I buy a bunch of them
> >> and put them in electrical panels, etc.
> >>
> >> I haven't finished wiring it yet, but the production machine will
> >> have a 130F bimetallic button thermal switch siliconed to the
> >> spindle motor housing and wired into the e-stop circuit to shut
> >> everything down if the spindle overheats.
> >>
> >> The Huanyang VFD produces a lot of electrical noise, apparently
> >> mostly radiated.  I used ultra flexible shielded four conductor
> >> cable (three phases plus ground) to keep the cable from radiating
> >> much energy.  The only place I had an RFI problem was the VGA
> >> monitor and a good quality VGA cable fixed that problem.
> >>
> >> On the larger router, I tried to place a five gallon coolant tank
> >> under the router and pump the coolant up and then back down to the
> >> spindle motor.  I was partly motivated by not wanting a leak that
> >> siphoned the five gallon coolant tank empty.  After some
> >> experimentation, I gave up and put the coolant tank on top of the
> >> CNC router enclosure.  When it was underneath, I needed to use such
> >> a large pump to have enough pressure to pump the coolant six feet
> >> vertically that the submerged coolant pump was heating the coolant
> >> more than the spindle.  It was a spindle heater, not a spindle
> >> cooler.
> >>
> >> We're finally ramping up production, with some programs running
> >> unattended for ten hours.  I'm going to need to add a radiator in
> >> the coolant return line and a couple of muffin fans to keep the
> >> coolant temperature low enough.  The other alternative might be ten
> >> or fifteen more gallons of coolant to increase the thermal mass,
> >> but that seems to only delay the overheating problem with greater
> >> risk of a severe coolant leak.
> >>
> >> On 05/22/2018 03:18 PM, Roland Jollivet wrote:
> >>> I'm looking at getting one of those 2.2kW air or water cooled
> >>> spindles + VFD kits out there for a router.
> >>> I'm not worried about the noise difference between the two types.
> >>>
> >>> Has anyone taken apart a water cooled spindle?
> >>> How are they doing the cooling? Is it a water jacket or just some
> >>> copper tubing inside?
> >>> How likely is it to leak in a few months time?
> >>> I can only find one video describing leaks and water related
> >>> shorts etc. (so they must be good?)
> >>>
> >>> I actually prefer the idea of using air-cooled and making ducting
> >>> to take the exhaust away from the spindle nose. Make a closed loop
> >>> fan-assisted air
> >>> duct.
> >>> The irony is that I want to use flood cooling on the work.
> >>> (composite material)  So it won't be a dry environment.
> >>>
> >>> Regards
> >>> Roland
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