Dave, Remove the side cowls and top cowl if they are still in place and look at the spot where the nose bowl steel ring attaches to the engine mount. A spacer should be there. If it is, remove it (and save it) and reattach the nose bowl ring. The spacer is put there to bring the nose bowl ring forward, because the flange shaft crank is a little longer than the tapered shaft crank.
Syd On Sep 1, 2010, at 1:19 PM, Ronin Sensei wrote: > All, > (Trying to stay calm) > I am trying to make Mt Vernon. Time crunch. > > Installed new engine with tapered crankshaft to replace old engine with > flanged crankshaft. > BUT NOW > The prop back plate rubs the nose bowl....HARD. > Either the shaft is too short, or the bowl sticks out too far forward, it > appears. > What to do? > > Anybody have any ideas on how to deal with it? I am considering cutting the > nose open around the crank shaft. > Cannot figure out how to warp the nose bowl, instead, but would prefer to > warp it instead of cutting. (Ball peen hammer?) > Flumoxed, > Dave Winters > > (Moan, knash teeth, tear hair, pound walls) >
