EV Digest 3846
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) OT - Need help building reverse EV
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: OT - Need help building reverse EV
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: OT - Need help building reverse EV
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) actuations of brake/reservoir size
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) re: marketing idea
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Electric Power Steering (Part Deux)
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Electric Power Steering (Part Deux)
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by Roderick Wilde <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) RE: actuations of brake/reservoir size
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) trouble-shooting in indiana
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
16) Optima blue top questions
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Wham, Bam...Thanks, I think
by michael bearden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Electric Power Steering (Part Deux)
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Wham, Bam...Thanks, I think
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) More info RE: actuations of brake/reservoir size
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I decided I want to build a bicycle powered battery charger, and found this
website that seems to have good details.
http://www.detailshere.com/bicyclealternator.htm.
I thought I understood everything here, but I can't seem to get the
alternator to work. I got a 12V 120ma light bulb and put it in series with
what I think is the field coil, but when I spin the alternator the voltage
only rises to about 700 mv which seems suspicously close to the voltage drop
across a diode.
In all there are 4 connections on the alternator I am using. Two are blade
style connecters inside the case. The other two are bolt style, one of
which is a direct connection to the alternator case. I wired the bulb
circuit in series with one of the blade connectors and the case of the
alternator. Their was continuity between these two points which made me
believe this is the field coil. The bulb lights up when I complete the
circuit. I am measuring across the case and the other bolt connector which
is colored red and with a beefy enough connection to make it seem like this
would be the output of the alternator.
I am spinning the alternator with a drill press which claims to spin at
about 1400 RPM.
Any ideas? Offline would be fine.
damon
_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Isn't that the El Dorado FWD tranny? If that is the case why not just use a
monster truck front diff??????
Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I believe
it
> lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:15 PM
> Subject: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
>
>
> > While looking into options for our broken transaxle on "Gone Postal" I
> > surfed to find the top FWD VW drag racers and what they run. I also
called
> > one of our sponsors Autotech Sport Tuning www.autotech.com. It turns out
> > that Quaife makes a rather expensive but effective solution called a six
> > speed dog set. It includes all new gears except reverse. These gears are
> > like those on Japanese motorcycles where there are dogs that engage in
> > slots in opposing gears to engage the gears. They are 50% stronger than
> > the stock set up and 25% stronger than the Quaife synchro gear set. I
> > spoke with Hodi of Hodi's Performance who is a mechanic on the worlds
> > quickest and fastest FWD VW. It has 750 HP and turns 9.69 seconds at
> > 145.16 MPH. http://www.gtrmotorsports.net/GTR_racing/bios/brianbio.html
> > They just run the synchro gear set up. They were breaking third gear
when
> > they were running 650 HP but now that they are running 750 HP they are
> > breaking fourth gear every ten runs. I asked why they didn't go to the
dog
> > set up and he said it was because of the expense. The dog gear
> > transmission gear set would be sponsored to us for $5,500.00 which is
and
> > enormous amount of money but redesigning, adding more weight and
building
> > a new transmission is also expensive. We have no where near the
horsepower
> > they are running in their VW so I believe the dog gears would be the
> > solution for our project. This whole thing just reminds me of how far we
> > still have to go to harness our power and dial in this monster.
> >
> > Roderick Wilde
> > "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> > www.suckamps.com
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Eldorado/Toronado from the mid 60's - mid 70's used a
transmission/differential combination that was almost a transaxle. The
layout was conventional, with the crankcase running for and aft. It was also
extremely beefy, using a chain-like belt for transfer between the engine and
the trans input. After 1986, they were redesigned to the more popular
sideways engine layout. Not as heavy duty. But a heavy duty front
differential could work, I suppose. You would not have the IRS or
transmission to contend with. Just food for thought.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
Isn't that the El Dorado FWD tranny? If that is the case why not just use
a
monster truck front diff??????
Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I believe
it
lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:15 PM
Subject: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> While looking into options for our broken transaxle on "Gone Postal" I
> surfed to find the top FWD VW drag racers and what they run. I also
called
> one of our sponsors Autotech Sport Tuning www.autotech.com. It turns
> out
> that Quaife makes a rather expensive but effective solution called a
> six
> speed dog set. It includes all new gears except reverse. These gears
> are
> like those on Japanese motorcycles where there are dogs that engage in
> slots in opposing gears to engage the gears. They are 50% stronger than
> the stock set up and 25% stronger than the Quaife synchro gear set. I
> spoke with Hodi of Hodi's Performance who is a mechanic on the worlds
> quickest and fastest FWD VW. It has 750 HP and turns 9.69 seconds at
> 145.16 MPH. http://www.gtrmotorsports.net/GTR_racing/bios/brianbio.html
> They just run the synchro gear set up. They were breaking third gear
when
> they were running 650 HP but now that they are running 750 HP they are
> breaking fourth gear every ten runs. I asked why they didn't go to the
dog
> set up and he said it was because of the expense. The dog gear
> transmission gear set would be sponsored to us for $5,500.00 which is
and
> enormous amount of money but redesigning, adding more weight and
building
> a new transmission is also expensive. We have no where near the
horsepower
> they are running in their VW so I believe the dog gears would be the
> solution for our project. This whole thing just reminds me of how far
> we
> still have to go to harness our power and dial in this monster.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is this a Delco D-1? If so, the 2 spade terminals are the exciter and idiot
light terminals. One must have +12VDC applied to energise the fields, the
other goes to a small 12 v. bulb. I believe the buld must be connected for
the alternator to work. The other side of the bulb is grounded to
the -12VDC. The 2 bolt style connectors are probably the output (+12VDC) and
ground (GRD). In order to make it wrk, you have a small bulb connected
between the lamp terminal and the ground, and apply a 12 volt dc source to
the exciter terminal. all of this is off the top of my head, so take it with
a grain of salt.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:57 PM
Subject: OT - Need help building reverse EV
I decided I want to build a bicycle powered battery charger, and found this
website that seems to have good details.
http://www.detailshere.com/bicyclealternator.htm.
I thought I understood everything here, but I can't seem to get the
alternator to work. I got a 12V 120ma light bulb and put it in series
with what I think is the field coil, but when I spin the alternator the
voltage only rises to about 700 mv which seems suspicously close to the
voltage drop across a diode.
In all there are 4 connections on the alternator I am using. Two are
blade style connecters inside the case. The other two are bolt style, one
of which is a direct connection to the alternator case. I wired the bulb
circuit in series with one of the blade connectors and the case of the
alternator. Their was continuity between these two points which made me
believe this is the field coil. The bulb lights up when I complete the
circuit. I am measuring across the case and the other bolt connector
which is colored red and with a beefy enough connection to make it seem
like this would be the output of the alternator.
I am spinning the alternator with a drill press which claims to spin at
about 1400 RPM.
Any ideas? Offline would be fine.
damon
_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You need to look at a vehicle wiring diagram to see how your
alternator should be wired and if it needs an external voltage
regulator. Many auto parts store can test your alternator.
If the wiring is correct and the alternator is a good one, there's
no reason why it shouldn't work.
I think if you get it working you will be impressed by how hard it
will be to pedal when generating. This setup might be a good
thing to show someone who thinks a generator on a wheel is
a winning idea. Let him try pedalling it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:57 PM
Subject: OT - Need help building reverse EV
I decided I want to build a bicycle powered battery charger, and found this
website that seems to have good details.
http://www.detailshere.com/bicyclealternator.htm.
I thought I understood everything here, but I can't seem to get the
alternator to work. I got a 12V 120ma light bulb and put it in series
with what I think is the field coil, but when I spin the alternator the
voltage only rises to about 700 mv which seems suspicously close to the
voltage drop across a diode.
In all there are 4 connections on the alternator I am using. Two are
blade style connecters inside the case. The other two are bolt style, one
of which is a direct connection to the alternator case. I wired the bulb
circuit in series with one of the blade connectors and the case of the
alternator. Their was continuity between these two points which made me
believe this is the field coil. The bulb lights up when I complete the
circuit. I am measuring across the case and the other bolt connector
which is colored red and with a beefy enough connection to make it seem
like this would be the output of the alternator.
I am spinning the alternator with a drill press which claims to spin at
about 1400 RPM.
Any ideas? Offline would be fine.
damon
_________________________________________________________________
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
And did you tell him we can make 500 ftlbs of torque 0 to 1000 rpm???
Mention that the Armature on a 9 incher is like 50 to 75 lbs, and that's
without a Flywheel.
And we have NO negative torque at all. We have no compression breaking
actions, to spin the motor down When shifting.
If in your clear and sober mind... you think the front drive train can
take a 440 tunnel ram or a 460 with 850CFM and a stout 300deg Cam...Then we
can talk about getting all the front drive is worth,
to the ground.
I don't think the Dog clutches... will work well with the rotational weight
that we have to deal with.
I would certainly like to be wrong on this point.... Bang shifting from a
stout first gear, would be a total blast to drive.
Rod as you know it's not the Hp, it's the torque that We should be worring
about.
And getting that front motor to take 2000 amps without fireballing....
Some say it can't be done without movable brushes.....
And... and and.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:15 PM
Subject: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> While looking into options for our broken transaxle on "Gone Postal" I
> surfed to find the top FWD VW drag racers and what they run. I also called
> one of our sponsors Autotech Sport Tuning www.autotech.com. It turns out
> that Quaife makes a rather expensive but effective solution called a six
> speed dog set. It includes all new gears except reverse. These gears are
> like those on Japanese motorcycles where there are dogs that engage in
slots
> in opposing gears to engage the gears. They are 50% stronger than the
stock
> set up and 25% stronger than the Quaife synchro gear set. I spoke with
Hodi
> of Hodi's Performance who is a mechanic on the worlds quickest and fastest
> FWD VW. It has 750 HP and turns 9.69 seconds at 145.16 MPH.
> http://www.gtrmotorsports.net/GTR_racing/bios/brianbio.html They just run
> the synchro gear set up. They were breaking third gear when they were
> running 650 HP but now that they are running 750 HP they are breaking
fourth
> gear every ten runs. I asked why they didn't go to the dog set up and he
> said it was because of the expense. The dog gear transmission gear set
would
> be sponsored to us for $5,500.00 which is and enormous amount of money but
> redesigning, adding more weight and building a new transmission is also
> expensive. We have no where near the horsepower they are running in their
VW
> so I believe the dog gears would be the solution for our project. This
whole
> thing just reminds me of how far we still have to go to harness our power
> and dial in this monster.
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
> Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I believe
it
> lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
winner WINNER WINNER...
Yea if we can find one....this would be really nice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Okay EVers; how many brake actuations are you getting
per pull on the vac. pump?
I'm getting ONE! It's a Randy Holmquist pump with a
KTA reservoir (about 18" long x 3" dia). It just
seems like I got more with the setup Mike Brown had on
the Rabbit. I've replaced the vac. booster, and maybe
I'll have more actuations after I bleed the line, but
right now it looks like still one brake actuation per
pump pull. (This model is non-adjustable).
Thanks,
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An obscure place to look would be RV wrecking yards. I believe there was a
large RV built that used the Eldorado drivetrain and front wheel drive. That
seems like it should be stout enough. Those old Caddy 502's and 455 Olds
engine also produced nearly 500 Foot lbs or torque.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
Maybe a dumb question, but could you use the GM 475 transaxle? I believe
it
lived behind 400 HP 455 Oldsmobile and 501 Cadillac engines.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
winner WINNER WINNER...
Yea if we can find one....this would be really nice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1 other idea is pickups,
They are easy to convert and have utilitarian uses, but a limited
market segment. They are already designed with oversized brakes and
payload capacity.
so 3 types
PU, sedan, sports car
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I haven't paid much attention either. Forklift steering is straight
hydraulic. That is, there is no mechanical connection between the
steering wheel and wheels as there is in a car. This mechanical
connection is essential to getting road feedback. Straight hydraulic
(where a steering wheel connected metering valve feeds fluid to cylinders
attached to the wheels) steering is dead. There is no
auto-return-to-center (usually) and no road feedback.
Experience gained from the power steering units I've worked on says that
converting an automotive unit from open spool to closed spool would be
very difficult. Arranging the hydraulic circuit to allow steering without
assist (a safety requirement) would be difficult with a closed spool
system. The open spool arrangement allows oil to circulate freely from
the actuator through the spool valve when there is no assist.
Most important is the very smooth application of assist. One cannot
appreciate this until he has experienced a box with a little hysteresis or
stiction in the spool valve. The first movement of the wheel is hard so
one applies extra force. About then the assist kicks in and the wheel
goes twirling. It's difficult to keep a car in a lane under those
conditions.
Something to look at is a 2 speed motor drive using the stock steering
unit. A pressure switch (or pressure sensor feeding a controller for
smarter control) on the high pressure line could switch from high to low
speed as needed. The low speed could be selected such that it could
handle the minor corrections necessary for straightaway driving while the
high speed could handle everything else.
Add a little intelligence and a shaft encoder on the steering shaft and
one could add anticipation to kick the motor to high speed when more than
a certain wheel rate or excursion was detected. An input from vehicle
speed could stop the motor when the car was stationary, until the wheel
was moved, of course.
One more comment. Economy is driving the move to electric PS and PB
because energy efficiency is every bit as important to gas car OEMs as it
is to EVs. Hundredths of a point in CAFE MPG is worth fairly extensive
modifications. I imagine that the design of the Toy unit has been fairly
well optimized for energy use vs function so don't expect to save much
more energy and retain the seamless assist that PS is known for.
John
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 08:11:28 -0400, "Raymond Knight"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I just read about this for the first time today. We rebuild hydraulic motor,
>though I haven't the faintest idea about how the systems work. The reason
>why I never checked this thread before, just no time. Anyway, I do have a
>couple of companies that are customers of mine that build custom systems.
>Mostly cranes, lifts, etc. But their stuff is "oddball" so to speak, so they
>could have some knowledge of doing not off the shelf things like you
>described for your steering. Also if I recall some forklifts have hydraulic
>power steering as well. If you email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED], I can
>pass the email onto my customers. Try to include as much info as possible in
>the email, or a phone number that they can call you at to get more info.
>Again my apologies for not seeing this sooner.
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What about the older style power steering units that used an external ram?
You could connect the high side of the sterring valve to an accumulator,
which in turn is feed by an on-demand pump. Just a thought.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: Electric Power Steering (Part Deux)
I haven't paid much attention either. Forklift steering is straight
hydraulic. That is, there is no mechanical connection between the
steering wheel and wheels as there is in a car. This mechanical
connection is essential to getting road feedback. Straight hydraulic
(where a steering wheel connected metering valve feeds fluid to cylinders
attached to the wheels) steering is dead. There is no
auto-return-to-center (usually) and no road feedback.
Experience gained from the power steering units I've worked on says that
converting an automotive unit from open spool to closed spool would be
very difficult. Arranging the hydraulic circuit to allow steering without
assist (a safety requirement) would be difficult with a closed spool
system. The open spool arrangement allows oil to circulate freely from
the actuator through the spool valve when there is no assist.
Most important is the very smooth application of assist. One cannot
appreciate this until he has experienced a box with a little hysteresis or
stiction in the spool valve. The first movement of the wheel is hard so
one applies extra force. About then the assist kicks in and the wheel
goes twirling. It's difficult to keep a car in a lane under those
conditions.
Something to look at is a 2 speed motor drive using the stock steering
unit. A pressure switch (or pressure sensor feeding a controller for
smarter control) on the high pressure line could switch from high to low
speed as needed. The low speed could be selected such that it could
handle the minor corrections necessary for straightaway driving while the
high speed could handle everything else.
Add a little intelligence and a shaft encoder on the steering shaft and
one could add anticipation to kick the motor to high speed when more than
a certain wheel rate or excursion was detected. An input from vehicle
speed could stop the motor when the car was stationary, until the wheel
was moved, of course.
One more comment. Economy is driving the move to electric PS and PB
because energy efficiency is every bit as important to gas car OEMs as it
is to EVs. Hundredths of a point in CAFE MPG is worth fairly extensive
modifications. I imagine that the design of the Toy unit has been fairly
well optimized for energy use vs function so don't expect to save much
more energy and retain the seamless assist that PS is known for.
John
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 08:11:28 -0400, "Raymond Knight"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I just read about this for the first time today. We rebuild hydraulic
motor,
though I haven't the faintest idea about how the systems work. The reason
why I never checked this thread before, just no time. Anyway, I do have a
couple of companies that are customers of mine that build custom systems.
Mostly cranes, lifts, etc. But their stuff is "oddball" so to speak, so
they
could have some knowledge of doing not off the shelf things like you
described for your steering. Also if I recall some forklifts have
hydraulic
power steering as well. If you email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED], I can
pass the email onto my customers. Try to include as much info as possible
in
the email, or a phone number that they can call you at to get more info.
Again my apologies for not seeing this sooner.
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The VW in question was running only 433 ft/lbs of torque and 516 HP
when it ran 10s at 134 MPH with 15 inch wide wrinkle walls. It is
most likely well above 500 ft/lbs in it's present 9 second
configuration. This is no whimp car. It would eat a stock 1964 426
Dodge hemi out of the hole like I eat Vipers with the "Maniac Mazda".
As I said this car isn't even running the dog gear set up. Do you
even know what I'm talking about Rich when I describe these gears? By
your response on shifting, I think not. My brother used to drag race
a Kawasocki Ninja. He had his dog gears bevel cut and all you had to
do was barely touch the shifter and it sucked into the next gear
without lifting your grip off full throttle. It really helps on your
ET. You keep shredding tires and I'll keep setting records. Go do
your homework on these gears before you talk about what kind of
torque they can or can't take.
By the way, did you bother to go to www.suckamps.com and look at
the pictures of the brushes. If the front was on 1800 amps it doesn't
show the signs of severe arcing that would indicate fireballing. I
eventually would like to have the same fiber optic system that Bob
Schneiveis had on the four 8 inch motored Tarus that allowed you to
look at each motor's com. Come to think of it small remote cameras
might just be the trick.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
And did you tell him we can make 500 ftlbs of torque 0 to 1000 rpm???
Mention that the Armature on a 9 incher is like 50 to 75 lbs, and that's
without a Flywheel.
And we have NO negative torque at all. We have no compression breaking
actions, to spin the motor down When shifting.
If in your clear and sober mind... you think the front drive train can
take a 440 tunnel ram or a 460 with 850CFM and a stout 300deg Cam...Then we
can talk about getting all the front drive is worth,
to the ground.
I don't think the Dog clutches... will work well with the rotational weight
that we have to deal with.
I would certainly like to be wrong on this point.... Bang shifting from a
stout first gear, would be a total blast to drive.
Rod as you know it's not the Hp, it's the torque that We should be worring
about.
And getting that front motor to take 2000 amps without fireballing....
Some say it can't be done without movable brushes.....
And... and and.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:15 PM
Subject: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
While looking into options for our broken transaxle on "Gone Postal" I
surfed to find the top FWD VW drag racers and what they run. I also called
one of our sponsors Autotech Sport Tuning www.autotech.com. It turns out
that Quaife makes a rather expensive but effective solution called a six
speed dog set. It includes all new gears except reverse. These gears are
like those on Japanese motorcycles where there are dogs that engage in
slots
in opposing gears to engage the gears. They are 50% stronger than the
stock
set up and 25% stronger than the Quaife synchro gear set. I spoke with
Hodi
of Hodi's Performance who is a mechanic on the worlds quickest and fastest
FWD VW. It has 750 HP and turns 9.69 seconds at 145.16 MPH.
http://www.gtrmotorsports.net/GTR_racing/bios/brianbio.html They just run
the synchro gear set up. They were breaking third gear when they were
running 650 HP but now that they are running 750 HP they are breaking
fourth
gear every ten runs. I asked why they didn't go to the dog set up and he
said it was because of the expense. The dog gear transmission gear set
would
be sponsored to us for $5,500.00 which is and enormous amount of money but
redesigning, adding more weight and building a new transmission is also
expensive. We have no where near the horsepower they are running in their
VW
so I believe the dog gears would be the solution for our project. This
whole
thing just reminds me of how far we still have to go to harness our power
and dial in this monster.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
--
Roderick Wilde
Vintage Golf Cart Parts
Specializing in Parts for Harley and many other mature carts
www.vintagegolfcartparts.com
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: 360-385-4868
Fax: 360-385-7922
107 Louisa Street
Port Townsend, WA 98368
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Victor has a permanently mounted vacuum gauge. If you can do the same at
least you would know if you had a leak. Maybe install a t-joint fitting to
temporarily fit an automotive type vacuum gauge for diagnosis purposes.
Don
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bob Bath
Sent: October 11, 2004 5:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: actuations of brake/reservoir size
Okay EVers; how many brake actuations are you getting per pull on the vac.
pump?
I'm getting ONE! It's a Randy Holmquist pump with a KTA reservoir (about
18" long x 3" dia). It just seems like I got more with the setup Mike Brown
had on the Rabbit. I've replaced the vac. booster, and maybe I'll have more
actuations after I bleed the line, but right now it looks like still one
brake actuation per pump pull. (This model is non-adjustable).
Thanks,
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
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i bought my first ev this summer. its a 94 chevy s-10 US electricar. i had
too put in new batteries which i did. and now it doesn't move. it sounds like
the motors on and it will idle backwards a little bit but it won't go forward.
when i try to charge it it sounds like the motor starts going after two hours
of charging. is this normal? if anyone can help me out i'd appreciate it.
thanks.
jon wold
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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I've been doing some work on a Sparrow with 13 Optima
blue tops. I think there is a problem with the pack,
so I'm hoping the list can give some feedback.
There are 13, 12Vdc Optima's in a Sparrow.
If the batteries are fully charged with the Zivan and
I drive with heavy acceleration the voltage drops
below 130Vdc. After driving a few miles I put it on
charge. When the charge voltage reaches approximately
190Vdc it quickly rises to 214V and finishes the
charge. So, why does it jump from 190V to 214Vdc?
This voltage jump is normal in NiCd's, but what about
Optima's?
I'll admit that I have lots to learn about sealed lead
acid, but the voltages I've seen for charge and
discharge don't seem normal.
It seems the voltage sag for an Optima on a Sparrow
should not be -40V. It is also strange to see a 24Vdc
jump in charge voltage so drastically.
Thanks for any help.
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Madman is right about the torque breaking the transaxle. And shifting
will be problematic with face dogs. Now if you had a computer that knew
all the gear ratios, the inertias of all the parts, speed sensors on
relevant shafts, estimates of drag and you had regen, then you could do
it in software. Without it, or a way to retard the input shaft, you
might make for some rounded over face dogs pretty quickly. Eaton can't
get shifting right on their autostick, it isn't a trivial problem.
Go to the Caddy transaxle. With a torque converter and motor advance
you would have a better shot at it.. You would never have to operate
the front motor stalled.
Or calculate the torque at which you broke the VW transaxle and limit
the torque to that value and launch in an appropriate gear. Even the
latest greatest 6 speed VW transaxle is only rated for 260 ft-lb. That
one is rated for more like 200 ft-lb. Figuring on the torque ripple of
a 4 cylinder, call it 400ft-lb, although getting torque ripple data
from an engine manufacturer is nearly impossible, what little data I
have indicates it is in the neighborhood of 1.8X the mean of the 4
cycles.
If you are running at more than the peak spike of the peak rated (mean)
torque, then I don't think you can do much to keep it from failing.
Other than rebuilding transaxles and swapping them out on a schedule.
If you are actually removing the engagement castellations on a
syncromesh box, the face dogs could help, but there is still the issue
of shifting. If you are spreading the case from torque and breaking
teeth, face dogs won't do a bit of good.
Good luck
Seth
On Oct 11, 2004, at 7:55 PM, Rich Rudman wrote:
And did you tell him we can make 500 ftlbs of torque 0 to 1000 rpm???
Mention that the Armature on a 9 incher is like 50 to 75 lbs, and
that's
without a Flywheel.
And we have NO negative torque at all. We have no compression breaking
actions, to spin the motor down When shifting.
If in your clear and sober mind... you think the front drive train
can
take a 440 tunnel ram or a 460 with 850CFM and a stout 300deg
Cam...Then we
can talk about getting all the front drive is worth,
to the ground.
I don't think the Dog clutches... will work well with the rotational
weight
that we have to deal with.
I would certainly like to be wrong on this point.... Bang shifting
from a
stout first gear, would be a total blast to drive.
Rod as you know it's not the Hp, it's the torque that We should be
worring
about.
And getting that front motor to take 2000 amps without
fireballing....
Some say it can't be done without movable brushes.....
And... and and.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 12:15 PM
Subject: Solution for "Gone Postal's" broken tranny found
While looking into options for our broken transaxle on "Gone Postal" I
surfed to find the top FWD VW drag racers and what they run. I also
called
one of our sponsors Autotech Sport Tuning www.autotech.com. It turns
out
that Quaife makes a rather expensive but effective solution called a
six
speed dog set. It includes all new gears except reverse. These gears
are
like those on Japanese motorcycles where there are dogs that engage in
slots
in opposing gears to engage the gears. They are 50% stronger than the
stock
set up and 25% stronger than the Quaife synchro gear set. I spoke with
Hodi
of Hodi's Performance who is a mechanic on the worlds quickest and
fastest
FWD VW. It has 750 HP and turns 9.69 seconds at 145.16 MPH.
http://www.gtrmotorsports.net/GTR_racing/bios/brianbio.html They just
run
the synchro gear set up. They were breaking third gear when they were
running 650 HP but now that they are running 750 HP they are breaking
fourth
gear every ten runs. I asked why they didn't go to the dog set up and
he
said it was because of the expense. The dog gear transmission gear set
would
be sponsored to us for $5,500.00 which is and enormous amount of
money but
redesigning, adding more weight and building a new transmission is
also
expensive. We have no where near the horsepower they are running in
their
VW
so I believe the dog gears would be the solution for our project. This
whole
thing just reminds me of how far we still have to go to harness our
power
and dial in this monster.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
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Well, my questions about what to do about parts for the next EV got
answered today when a Toy pig-up turned in front of me at a traffic
light as I rolled through the intersection inWATTABMR at close to the
40mph speed that is posted. It pasted the Toy pretty well, and I won't
be driving the BMW anywhere again, but no one was hurt. I actually
didn't feel any real impact, and I know it hit fairly hard. That
BavarianMotorVerks makes stout cars! No one else stopped, so I don't
have any witnesses to the fact that I didn't run a red light, ( and the
other driver claims he had the arrow to turn) so I think the insurance
companies are going to say "It's on you." My loss is my daily driver
for now, but looking on the bright side, now I have everything I need to
make a new EV-batteries, controller, charger, regs, DC/DC and a GE motor
that is just nicely broken in after the last four years of driving (on
the 16th of this month).
Anybody got a VW transaxle adaptor gathering dust?
Michael B.
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Hyster lift trucks now use a system like this. The motor is a brushless
DC motor with a controller built in. An encoder is on the steering shaft
sensing movement , the more you move the shaft the faster the motor turns.
Mike G.
Something to look at is a 2 speed motor drive using the stock steering
unit. A pressure switch (or pressure sensor feeding a controller for
smarter control) on the high pressure line could switch from high to low
speed as needed. The low speed could be selected such that it could
handle the minor corrections necessary for straightaway driving while the
high speed could handle everything else.
Add a little intelligence and a shaft encoder on the steering shaft and
one could add anticipation to kick the motor to high speed when more than
a certain wheel rate or excursion was detected. An input from vehicle
speed could stop the motor when the car was stationary, until the wheel
was moved, of course.
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Some of the kit car guys use an Audi transaxle with a Chevy V8
attached. The Porsche 914 and 911 transaxles are V8 tough, too. This
would also give you equal length axles and less torque steer. Just
guessing on this, but you might get lucky and have the adapter and
axle bolts fit with the common heritage.
=====
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No cameras?
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael bearden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2004 7:42 PM
Subject: Wham, Bam...Thanks, I think
Well, my questions about what to do about parts for the next EV got
answered today when a Toy pig-up turned in front of me at a traffic
light as I rolled through the intersection inWATTABMR at close to the
40mph speed that is posted. It pasted the Toy pretty well, and I won't
be driving the BMW anywhere again, but no one was hurt. I actually
didn't feel any real impact, and I know it hit fairly hard. That
BavarianMotorVerks makes stout cars! No one else stopped, so I don't
have any witnesses to the fact that I didn't run a red light, ( and the
other driver claims he had the arrow to turn) so I think the insurance
companies are going to say "It's on you." My loss is my daily driver
for now, but looking on the bright side, now I have everything I need to
make a new EV-batteries, controller, charger, regs, DC/DC and a GE motor
that is just nicely broken in after the last four years of driving (on
the 16th of this month).
Anybody got a VW transaxle adaptor gathering dust?
Michael B.
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I'm _certain_ after working with a vac. gauge that I
don't have a leak.
What I _am_ thinking, though, is that my vac.
switch doesn't have a ton of leeway; in other words,
it cuts in when there is still plenty of vacuum, and
cuts out when it could pull the Hg down even further.
I'm wondering if I should just bypass the existing
switch, and hook up an adjustable one.
=====
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you
saving any gas for your kids?
_______________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
