EV Digest 3959
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Heater/defroster ideas?
by Robb Zuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Troubleshooting the ADC
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Gas powered cell phones - for real
by "John Bryan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Warning: The Hydrogen Economy May Be More Distant Than It Appears
by "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: PFC popping breaker
by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) RE: Gas powered cell phones - for real
by "johnk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Troubleshooting the ADC
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Troubleshooting the ADC
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Smart EV -Glider, was EV eff,
by Emil Naepflein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) (fwd) Re: NEON- Bombarding Transformer Power
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Heater/defroster ideas?
by richard ball <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: PFC popping breaker
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: The 300zx is alive!!
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: (fwd) Re: NEON- Bombarding Transformer Power
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: (fwd) Re: NEON- Bombarding Transformer Power
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Heater/defroster ideas?
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) simple and cost effective
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: simple and cost effective
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: simple and cost effective
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: (fwd) Re: NEON- Bombarding Transformer Power
by Derrick J Brashear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: eCycle, was Re: Real or Memorex?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
I use a "Vidal Sasoon" hair dryer. Large, higher quality hair dryers
tend to be quieter than small ones. It runs well off my 96 Volt pack.
Most hair dryers, popcorn poppers, etc. have motors that run fine on
DC. I switch it off by pulling its plug out of a standard outlet
that's mounted in the cab -- I taped up the dryer's own switch because
it would get fried otherwise. Use two hair dryers if it's desperately
cold out -- It's amazing how great that hot air feels if you pump it
directly inside your coat :)
If the heat doesn't keep up with the window fog, crack open a window
to let out some moisture.
Robb
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 23:30:28 -0600, Robert MacConnell wrote:
>
>Greetings fellows, I'd be interested in hearing about what folks are using
>to heat and particularly defrost their vans. My van is currently equipped
>with it's original(?) German made gasoline heater which doesn't work. I'd
>like to replace it with something electric. Thanks for any input! Robert
>MacConnell.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
> We need a 12 jumper cable test to find out if both field pair
> are in parallel.
I got a chance to do a "12 volt" test. Unfortunately, it wasn't much of
a 12 volt test as I never saw 12 volts with the motor running.
See, the only spare 12 volt battery I have around is a hurt flooded one
which my Wrangler did a good number on. So there was some bad voltage
sag. I did two tests, with the Tach sensor ON and the motor hooked
through the shunt.
Try 1:
Motor RPMs: 1000
Motor Amps: 52A
Volts: 10.60
Try 2 (after charging the battery for awhile):
Motor RPMs: 1100
Motor Amps: 51A
Volts: 11.32
Both times, the current went up to 100-110 amps for about 3 seconds,
then gradually dropped to a constant current when the motor reached
speed.
So, I have no clue if this is helpful info or not. I don't have anyway
to feed it more power unless I hook it up to the new battery which is
currently in my Wrangler (I may be able to do that tomorrow)...
Thanks,
-Nick
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 2004-12-14 at 00:30, Rich Rudman wrote:
> GOT IT !!
> This is the kind of experience that is painfull, but makes you a much better
> EV tech guy.
> Yea.... I fear that there is still damage inside the motor, The leads
> are copper welded and area real bitch to work on. you need a copper welder
> to do it right. Solder is not good enough.
> Having one 1/2 the fields lit up , and getting REALLY hot is not going to be
> a pretty sight, But it fully explains the massive lack of power. In essence
> you have a 4.5 inch motor... aka 1/2 the 9. Buck up Ma Boy , you may still
> have twice the motor when you see the light of day on this Opps!.
>
> We gotta name ya for it.....All us Evers get named, and it stings when we
> do....
>
> Plasma Boy, Darn near burnd up his White Zombie.....
>
> This is exactly what you needed to find, something simple but Ugly.
>
> Q Rod to get you a set of field coils. It's better than a whole motor.
>
> Oh yea Ohming the motor is rather foolish. A good motor is 0.004 ohms, You
> need to do a 12 volts 100 to 200 amps of current, then measure the instant
> amps and volts, Then calculate the ohms for that.
> We need a 12 jumper cable test to find out if both field pair are in
> parallel.
>
> If one field set is down your burshes should look a LOT different on the set
> the is carring curren than the ones that don't Hopefully there is minimal
> damage to the set that was doing all the work.
> Thank your start that you only had a 600, The 1200 would have blown a single
> set of coils up in just a few minutes.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nick Viera" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 7:39 PM
> Subject: Re: Troubleshooting the ADC
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Well, I found something bad while under the Jeep yesterday. I was
> > reconnecting the wires to the motor at terminals A2 and A1, while I was
> > reassembling the motor. I brushed against the negative wire to the motor
> > (goes to the hard to see/reach terminal S1), and to my horror saw the
> > lug at terminal S1 moving about freely. Just great, the connection was
> > very loose. How the hell could that have happened??
> >
> > So, being the optimist I am, I simply tried tightening the nut on the
> > terminal. No good, it wasn't tightening one bit. So, I took it off, only
> > to see that half of terminal S1's thread is now completely melted off.
> > This is in addition to the bolt and washer being burnt, corroded, and
> > now pitted due to arcing. Oh, and the plastic ring around the terminal
> > looks half melted, and the rubber boot covering the connection is very
> > melted (No wonder there were weird smells coming from the motor!)
> >
> > After some practice, I was able to find a way to get the camera up in
> > there to get pictures of S1 (and the other stuff). Here:
> > http://driveev.com/temp/motor/melted/
> >
> > I am extremely embarrassed that I didn't notice this before, but one
> > problem is that S1 is in a position where it is hard to see (and I was
> > apparently too stupid to think of tugging on the wires to make sure the
> > connections were snug.) :-(
> >
> > So anyways, I got out a file and ground off all the corrosion and burn
> > marks on the eyelet, and nut, and installed a new washer. I then put the
> > eyelet back on the terminal and put extra washers between it and the nut
> > so the nut wouldn't need to screw on to as much thread, and thus I got
> > the connection snug now. Obviously this is by no means a permanent fix.
> >
> > With the eyelet bolted back up to S1, hopefully making a better
> > connection than it had before, I went for a short drive to see if there
> > was any difference in performance. Starting off from a stop is still
> > just as lousy, BUT, once the Jeep is moving, I noticed that the
> > performance is *noticeably* better than before. For example, I can put
> > it in 3rd going 25mph and still have good acceleration on flat surface
> > (before, If I tried 3rd while going that slow I'd be flooring it and
> > basically going nowhere).
> >
> > So, I believe that this connection was/is one of my big problems. I
> > still need to fix it (replace it?). My other concern is if it was
> > getting hot enough at the terminal to melt plastic, rubber, and pit the
> > metal contact surfaces, is there a possibility I've damaged the
> > electrical connections inside the motor that are soldered (?) to
> > terminal S1? Since the two series sets of coils are connected in
> > parallel between S1 and S2, I wonder if one coil set's connection to S1
> > could have been melted off or been damaged, leaving only one set of
> > coils functioning in the motor. This could explain the lousy performance
> > and the heating of the motor, while still having continuity between S1
> > and S2 (which I know there is and should be).
> >
> > I still can't believe S1 had been so loose and I was too stupid to ever
> > check or notice it :-/
> >
> > The mystery continues?... (I'm still looking to take this motor to a
> > shop for inspection)...
> >
> > -Nick
> > 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> > http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chris Tromley wrote:
> People would argue that cell phones "should" be powered with toxic,
> polluting liquid fuel requiring highly complex support systems and regular
> maintenance, simply for the benefit of being able to go two weeks without
> refueling.
I'm actually in the process of designing a gas-powered phone right now.
I recently discussed some of the preliminary design details with Dave
(Battery Boy) Hawkins. It won't actually work, it's primary design goals are
to emit vibration, noise, and smoke. It's going to be a movie prop.
I just had a thought.....say you're visiting with some anti-EV folks,
maybe over the holidays. After proudly arriving in your EV, and enduring
the usual jabs, jokes, and insults, you could get even by taking out the phone
while sitting in the living room and politely asking the host:
You: "say old chap, do you mind if I make a call?".
Old Chap: "Why certainly, go right ahead"
you fire up your phone and it eventually starts!
Old Chap: "Turn that blasted thing off!!!"
You: (calmly....stalling): "Why?....you said I could make the call?....
(shouting into the phone now): "What'd ya' say? I can't hear ya',
yer gonna have to speak up now, I'm gettin' hard of hearin' fer
some reason". ........"you don't say"...."hmm"
Then cupping your hand over the receiver, you proudly tell
the steamin' mad old chap how it'll run for two weeks without
refueling.
...John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just got my new Popular Science magazine and low and behold they have a GREAT
article debunking many of the myths surrounding the "hydrogen economy".
The article is also on their website at:
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/generaltech/article/0,20967,927469,00.html
<http://www.popsci.com/popsci/generaltech/article/0,20967,927469,00.html>
The ten items they talk about.
1. HYDROGEN IS AN ABUNDANT FUEL
2. HYDROGEN FUEL CELLS WILL END GLOBAL WARMING
3. THE HYDROGEN ECONOMY CAN RUN ON RENEWABLE ENERGY
4. HYDROGEN GAS LEAKS ARE NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT
5. CARS ARE THE NATURAL FIRST APPLICATION FOR HYDROGEN FUEL CELLS
6. THE U.S. IS COMMITTED TO HYDROGEN, POURING BILLIONS INTO R&D
7. IF ICELAND CAN DO IT, SO CAN WE
8. MASS PRODUCTION WILL MAKE HYDROGEN CARS AFFORDABLE
9. FUEL CELL CARS CAN DRIVE HUNDREDS OF MILES ON A SINGLE TANK OF HYDROGEN
10. IF NOT HYDROGEN, THEN WHAT?
Jay
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I bet you meant to send that directly to Rich, but since you sent it to
the list, a couple of ideas:
1. Is there by chance some other load also on that breaker?
2. Breakers that are old or abused (from having been run hot for a long
time and/or from having opened inductive loads many times) can open at
less than their rated current. Maybe try running the charger off of
another circuit of the same rating and see how it behaves.
good luck,
Andrew
Ryan Bohm wrote:
Hi again,
My house wiring is apparently no match for my wonderful PFC-20. I
keep popping the breaker with the amps on the charger at only about
half. It's a 20 amp breaker. Any ideas?
-Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At last years, Pulsed Power Conference there was a paper given on using
a 1"X 1" Wankle to spin a small generator to provide power to a laptop.
I can find the paper after the Holidays, if anyone wants it.
John K
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John Bryan
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 6:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Gas powered cell phones - for real
Chris Tromley wrote:
> People would argue that cell phones "should" be powered with toxic,
> polluting liquid fuel requiring highly complex support systems and
regular
> maintenance, simply for the benefit of being able to go two weeks
without
> refueling.
I'm actually in the process of designing a gas-powered phone right
now.
I recently discussed some of the preliminary design details with Dave
(Battery Boy) Hawkins. It won't actually work, it's primary design goals
are
to emit vibration, noise, and smoke. It's going to be a movie prop.
I just had a thought.....say you're visiting with some anti-EV
folks,
maybe over the holidays. After proudly arriving in your EV, and enduring
the usual jabs, jokes, and insults, you could get even by taking out the
phone
while sitting in the living room and politely asking the host:
You: "say old chap, do you mind if I make a call?".
Old Chap: "Why certainly, go right ahead"
you fire up your phone and it eventually starts!
Old Chap: "Turn that blasted thing off!!!"
You: (calmly....stalling): "Why?....you said I could make the call?....
(shouting into the phone now): "What'd ya' say? I can't hear
ya',
yer gonna have to speak up now, I'm gettin' hard of hearin' fer
some reason". ........"you don't say"...."hmm"
Then cupping your hand over the receiver, you proudly tell
the steamin' mad old chap how it'll run for two weeks without
refueling.
...John
---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.794 / Virus Database: 538 - Release Date: 11/10/2004
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Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
> Can't this be diagnosed by disconnecting the "good" field coils and
> seeing if it even spins the motor in neutral?
But this can't be done without opening the front end of the motor,
right? I'm not sure I want to do this myself.
Anyways, I did find a shop here that specializes in DC motor repair. I
explained the situation to them, and they said if I bring it to them
they will test/diagnose it for $30.
Since I want to replace that melted S1 terminal, I'd have to remove the
motor anyways. So it looks like I'll be in the garage a lot this
weekend...
Thanks,
-Nick
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
-----------------------------------------------
On Tue, 2004-12-14 at 18:03, Seth Allen wrote:
> Can't this be diagnosed by disconnecting the "good" field coils and
> seeing if it even spins the motor in neutral?
>
> Seth
> On Dec 14, 2004, at 1:30 AM, Rich Rudman wrote:
>
> > GOT IT !!
> > This is the kind of experience that is painfull, but makes you a much
> > better
> > EV tech guy.
> > Yea.... I fear that there is still damage inside the motor, The
> > leads
> > are copper welded and area real bitch to work on. you need a copper
> > welder
> > to do it right. Solder is not good enough.
> > Having one 1/2 the fields lit up , and getting REALLY hot is not going
> > to be
> > a pretty sight, But it fully explains the massive lack of power. In
> > essence
> > you have a 4.5 inch motor... aka 1/2 the 9. Buck up Ma Boy , you may
> > still
> > have twice the motor when you see the light of day on this Opps!.
> >
> > We gotta name ya for it.....All us Evers get named, and it stings when
> > we
> > do....
> >
> > Plasma Boy, Darn near burnd up his White Zombie.....
> >
> > This is exactly what you needed to find, something simple but Ugly.
> >
> > Q Rod to get you a set of field coils. It's better than a whole motor.
> >
> > Oh yea Ohming the motor is rather foolish. A good motor is 0.004 ohms,
> > You
> > need to do a 12 volts 100 to 200 amps of current, then measure the
> > instant
> > amps and volts, Then calculate the ohms for that.
> > We need a 12 jumper cable test to find out if both field pair are in
> > parallel.
> >
> > If one field set is down your burshes should look a LOT different on
> > the set
> > the is carring curren than the ones that don't Hopefully there is
> > minimal
> > damage to the set that was doing all the work.
> > Thank your start that you only had a 600, The 1200 would have blown a
> > single
> > set of coils up in just a few minutes.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Nick Viera" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 7:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: Troubleshooting the ADC
> >
> >
> >> Hi,
> >>
> >> Well, I found something bad while under the Jeep yesterday. I was
> >> reconnecting the wires to the motor at terminals A2 and A1, while I
> >> was
> >> reassembling the motor. I brushed against the negative wire to the
> >> motor
> >> (goes to the hard to see/reach terminal S1), and to my horror saw the
> >> lug at terminal S1 moving about freely. Just great, the connection was
> >> very loose. How the hell could that have happened??
> >>
> >> So, being the optimist I am, I simply tried tightening the nut on the
> >> terminal. No good, it wasn't tightening one bit. So, I took it off,
> >> only
> >> to see that half of terminal S1's thread is now completely melted off.
> >> This is in addition to the bolt and washer being burnt, corroded, and
> >> now pitted due to arcing. Oh, and the plastic ring around the terminal
> >> looks half melted, and the rubber boot covering the connection is very
> >> melted (No wonder there were weird smells coming from the motor!)
> >>
> >> After some practice, I was able to find a way to get the camera up in
> >> there to get pictures of S1 (and the other stuff). Here:
> >> http://driveev.com/temp/motor/melted/
> >>
> >> I am extremely embarrassed that I didn't notice this before, but one
> >> problem is that S1 is in a position where it is hard to see (and I was
> >> apparently too stupid to think of tugging on the wires to make sure
> >> the
> >> connections were snug.) :-(
> >>
> >> So anyways, I got out a file and ground off all the corrosion and burn
> >> marks on the eyelet, and nut, and installed a new washer. I then put
> >> the
> >> eyelet back on the terminal and put extra washers between it and the
> >> nut
> >> so the nut wouldn't need to screw on to as much thread, and thus I got
> >> the connection snug now. Obviously this is by no means a permanent
> >> fix.
> >>
> >> With the eyelet bolted back up to S1, hopefully making a better
> >> connection than it had before, I went for a short drive to see if
> >> there
> >> was any difference in performance. Starting off from a stop is still
> >> just as lousy, BUT, once the Jeep is moving, I noticed that the
> >> performance is *noticeably* better than before. For example, I can put
> >> it in 3rd going 25mph and still have good acceleration on flat surface
> >> (before, If I tried 3rd while going that slow I'd be flooring it and
> >> basically going nowhere).
> >>
> >> So, I believe that this connection was/is one of my big problems. I
> >> still need to fix it (replace it?). My other concern is if it was
> >> getting hot enough at the terminal to melt plastic, rubber, and pit
> >> the
> >> metal contact surfaces, is there a possibility I've damaged the
> >> electrical connections inside the motor that are soldered (?) to
> >> terminal S1? Since the two series sets of coils are connected in
> >> parallel between S1 and S2, I wonder if one coil set's connection to
> >> S1
> >> could have been melted off or been damaged, leaving only one set of
> >> coils functioning in the motor. This could explain the lousy
> >> performance
> >> and the heating of the motor, while still having continuity between S1
> >> and S2 (which I know there is and should be).
> >>
> >> I still can't believe S1 had been so loose and I was too stupid to
> >> ever
> >> check or notice it :-/
> >>
> >> The mystery continues?... (I'm still looking to take this motor to a
> >> shop for inspection)...
> >>
> >> -Nick
> >> 1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
> >> http://Go.DriveEV.com/
> >>
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I dunno a think about ADC motors, but I was guessing that you could
disconnect S2, connect S1 and see what happened? Assuming A1 and A2 are
"armature 1 and armature 2" and s1 and s2 are series (field)1 and
series2, and circuits 1 and 2 are in parallel, (all assumptions here! I
am not an ADC guy!) then you could try this without removing anything
but wires. You already inadvertently intermittently removed S1, right?
Maybe try all this with a 12V battery?
Seth
On Dec 14, 2004, at 10:41 PM, Nick Viera wrote:
Hi,
Can't this be diagnosed by disconnecting the "good" field coils and
seeing if it even spins the motor in neutral?
But this can't be done without opening the front end of the motor,
right? I'm not sure I want to do this myself.
Anyways, I did find a shop here that specializes in DC motor repair. I
explained the situation to them, and they said if I bring it to them
they will test/diagnose it for $30.
Since I want to replace that melted S1 terminal, I'd have to remove the
motor anyways. So it looks like I'll be in the garage a lot this
weekend...
Thanks,
-Nick
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
-----------------------------------------------
On Tue, 2004-12-14 at 18:03, Seth Allen wrote:
Can't this be diagnosed by disconnecting the "good" field coils and
seeing if it even spins the motor in neutral?
Seth
On Dec 14, 2004, at 1:30 AM, Rich Rudman wrote:
GOT IT !!
This is the kind of experience that is painfull, but makes you a much
better
EV tech guy.
Yea.... I fear that there is still damage inside the motor, The
leads
are copper welded and area real bitch to work on. you need a copper
welder
to do it right. Solder is not good enough.
Having one 1/2 the fields lit up , and getting REALLY hot is not
going
to be
a pretty sight, But it fully explains the massive lack of power. In
essence
you have a 4.5 inch motor... aka 1/2 the 9. Buck up Ma Boy , you may
still
have twice the motor when you see the light of day on this Opps!.
We gotta name ya for it.....All us Evers get named, and it stings
when
we
do....
Plasma Boy, Darn near burnd up his White Zombie.....
This is exactly what you needed to find, something simple but Ugly.
Q Rod to get you a set of field coils. It's better than a whole
motor.
Oh yea Ohming the motor is rather foolish. A good motor is 0.004
ohms,
You
need to do a 12 volts 100 to 200 amps of current, then measure the
instant
amps and volts, Then calculate the ohms for that.
We need a 12 jumper cable test to find out if both field pair are in
parallel.
If one field set is down your burshes should look a LOT different on
the set
the is carring curren than the ones that don't Hopefully there is
minimal
damage to the set that was doing all the work.
Thank your start that you only had a 600, The 1200 would have blown a
single
set of coils up in just a few minutes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Viera" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting the ADC
Hi,
Well, I found something bad while under the Jeep yesterday. I was
reconnecting the wires to the motor at terminals A2 and A1, while I
was
reassembling the motor. I brushed against the negative wire to the
motor
(goes to the hard to see/reach terminal S1), and to my horror saw
the
lug at terminal S1 moving about freely. Just great, the connection
was
very loose. How the hell could that have happened??
So, being the optimist I am, I simply tried tightening the nut on
the
terminal. No good, it wasn't tightening one bit. So, I took it off,
only
to see that half of terminal S1's thread is now completely melted
off.
This is in addition to the bolt and washer being burnt, corroded,
and
now pitted due to arcing. Oh, and the plastic ring around the
terminal
looks half melted, and the rubber boot covering the connection is
very
melted (No wonder there were weird smells coming from the motor!)
After some practice, I was able to find a way to get the camera up
in
there to get pictures of S1 (and the other stuff). Here:
http://driveev.com/temp/motor/melted/
I am extremely embarrassed that I didn't notice this before, but one
problem is that S1 is in a position where it is hard to see (and I
was
apparently too stupid to think of tugging on the wires to make sure
the
connections were snug.) :-(
So anyways, I got out a file and ground off all the corrosion and
burn
marks on the eyelet, and nut, and installed a new washer. I then put
the
eyelet back on the terminal and put extra washers between it and the
nut
so the nut wouldn't need to screw on to as much thread, and thus I
got
the connection snug now. Obviously this is by no means a permanent
fix.
With the eyelet bolted back up to S1, hopefully making a better
connection than it had before, I went for a short drive to see if
there
was any difference in performance. Starting off from a stop is still
just as lousy, BUT, once the Jeep is moving, I noticed that the
performance is *noticeably* better than before. For example, I can
put
it in 3rd going 25mph and still have good acceleration on flat
surface
(before, If I tried 3rd while going that slow I'd be flooring it and
basically going nowhere).
So, I believe that this connection was/is one of my big problems. I
still need to fix it (replace it?). My other concern is if it was
getting hot enough at the terminal to melt plastic, rubber, and pit
the
metal contact surfaces, is there a possibility I've damaged the
electrical connections inside the motor that are soldered (?) to
terminal S1? Since the two series sets of coils are connected in
parallel between S1 and S2, I wonder if one coil set's connection to
S1
could have been melted off or been damaged, leaving only one set of
coils functioning in the motor. This could explain the lousy
performance
and the heating of the motor, while still having continuity between
S1
and S2 (which I know there is and should be).
I still can't believe S1 had been so loose and I was too stupid to
ever
check or notice it :-/
The mystery continues?... (I'm still looking to take this motor to a
shop for inspection)...
-Nick
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
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--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 17:39:54 -0800 (PST), jerry dycus
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Probably get at least $1,500 for the diesel or can you
> get it in gas for less?
In germany the cheapeast SMART costs 9.000 EUR, about $12.000. Someone
has talked to dealers about SMART without motor and this would about
$10.000. And you can get used SMARTs easily for less than $5.000.
> But they won't beat a well designed EV or a plug
> in , 8hp/1000lbs hybrid ever in energy use/mile.
May be a Hybrid SMART will be available:
http://www.solarmobil.net/bilder/smart-hybrid-600b.jpg
Emil
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--- Begin Message ---
Someone on the neon signmaking mailing list posted this. I thought I'd
pass it along for the UberGeeks among us :-)
-----------
I poked around on the web and found a great shareware program for drawing
meter faces. You enter in all the size parameters, choose your FSD, tics,
etc. and it prints out a good meter face. The shareware version lets you
print out meter faces.
http://tonnesoftware.com/meter.html
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
i don'tknow if this is any help but here in the uk you can buy 12V heater /
defroster units for kit cars for around £30 and they work great i've used them
before.
Robb Zuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I use a "Vidal Sasoon" hair dryer. Large,
higher quality hair dryers
tend to be quieter than small ones. It runs well off my 96 Volt pack.
Most hair dryers, popcorn poppers, etc. have motors that run fine on
DC. I switch it off by pulling its plug out of a standard outlet
that's mounted in the cab -- I taped up the dryer's own switch because
it would get fried otherwise. Use two hair dryers if it's desperately
cold out -- It's amazing how great that hot air feels if you pump it
directly inside your coat :)
If the heat doesn't keep up with the window fog, crack open a window
to let out some moisture.
Robb
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 23:30:28 -0600, Robert MacConnell wrote:
>
>Greetings fellows, I'd be interested in hearing about what folks are using
>to heat and particularly defrost their vans. My van is currently equipped
>with it's original(?) German made gasoline heater which doesn't work. I'd
>like to replace it with something electric. Thanks for any input! Robert
>MacConnell.
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
1. Connect a clamp on ammeter to the wire coming from that breaker in the
fuse box before you turn on the charger. You might find there is a load
without the charger being on.
2. Turn the charger up one amp at a time and let it sit for a minute at each
setting. See if the ammeter is reading 20 amps before it opens.
3. If the ammeter reads over 20 amps, the breaker is reasonably healthy. If
it opens under 20 amps, replace it with a new one.
4. If the circuit is shared with another load, you can time share or add
another breaker dedicated to your charger.
My EV shared a breaker with my motorhome and my 1 horse air compressor until
I split the circuit to three separate breakers. Now I can run the motorhome
air conditioner, run air tools on the compressor and charge the car all at
the same time.
My 20 amp replacement breakers were only $2.50 last time I bought one. Now
they are all they way up to $3.56
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0873043574.1103090587@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccehadddgdgdhilcgelceffdfgidgll.0&CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=Super%20Categories/Building%20%26%20Remodeling&MID=9876&pos=p03
Making sure your breakers are healthy is good practice.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 4:49 PM
Subject: PFC popping breaker
> Hi again,
>
> My house wiring is apparently no match for my wonderful PFC-20. I keep
> popping the breaker with the amps on the charger at only about half.
> It's a 20 amp breaker. Any ideas?
>
> -Ryan
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
> Christmas Discounts throughout the season!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> > The car feels very good for 26 golf cart
> > bats ...
>
> That's about 1700 lb of lead, quite a load for that critter to haul
around.
> What did you do to the suspension so it could handle so much extra weight?
>
>
In the back I put some larger springs that came form the front of a 1 ton
truck and the car sits a little hi in the back now , the frount end still
has the same springs and it sits a little low . ,
> I am just about to get started on a '87 300zx, unfortunantly I will
> probably have to put the ICE back in just to get the position of the
> tranny then yank it out again :-(
>
I lined the tranny up to where it was with the engina but then found I
needed the motor 1 " lower to make room the the batteries , I wouldn't put
the engina back in , you can kind of tell where the tranny goes by where the
drive shaft and the shift leaver are.
> The motor mounts seem so far forward, I am curious to see how you
> adapted and mounted up to the tranny.
>
I got rid of them , and had to cut the part that held them to the frame to
make room for the power steering pump. my adaptor plate is made of steel
and I welded on to it some arms that go out to the frame. I have some angle
iron that sits nicely on the frame( with rubber mat under it ) and had the
arms welded to it . I also have the motor supported in the frount
> questions,questions
> what year 300zx, what motor, controller? how many battteries, where
> did all the batteries go.
I think its a 90 but will check , a 1k 156v zillia controller , and 26 golf
cart batteries , 10 in the fount ( 8 sitting over the motor and 2 in the
nose ,, 8 behind the seats in a box , and 8 where the gas tank was.
> any ZX tips!
>
this is not a light car to start with , eveything on it is big and strong
but also heavy . It uses about 120 amp to go 50 mph .
> I am unbelievably exiteed about getting started on this project.
>
What are you looking for it to do? what batteries are you thinking about.
steve clunn
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--- Begin Message ---
On Tuesday, December 14, 2004, at 10:07 PM, Neon John wrote:
Someone on the neon signmaking mailing list posted this. I thought I'd
pass it along for the UberGeeks among us :-)
Sorry, all the UberGeeks run Linux or MacOS. This is Windows-only
software, and no good for the target audience you intended.
:)
-----------
I poked around on the web and found a great shareware program for
drawing
meter faces. You enter in all the size parameters, choose your FSD,
tics,
etc. and it prints out a good meter face. The shareware version lets
you
print out meter faces.
http://tonnesoftware.com/meter.html
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 22:47:54 -0800, Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
>On Tuesday, December 14, 2004, at 10:07 PM, Neon John wrote:
>
>> Someone on the neon signmaking mailing list posted this. I thought I'd
>> pass it along for the UberGeeks among us :-)
>
>Sorry, all the UberGeeks run Linux or MacOS. This is Windows-only
>software, and no good for the target audience you intended.
Panty-waisted limp wrists, liberal drones and the computer.helpless use
MacOS. An UberGeek runs at least three different OSes on multiple
gatewayed LANS, has a 3mb DSL connection and wireless access, including a
link to his car's onboard diagnostics which includes the ability to start
and stop his car's engine via the net (wouldn't you like to know THAT IP
address and port :-) and much of his work is done with home-grown
software. Oh, and he makes neon and has an interesting nuclear lab in his
shop. Guilty as charged :-)
Debian Linux on the server,
System V on the old internet server (just hate to shut it down after 15+
years of good service.)
WinXP on this laptop
Win98 on the restaurant staff computer.
Embedded dos on the various single board computers.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Richard-
We get a little different "frost" out here. Because those units are
known for doing very little. At least in the Northern parts of the USA.
It hit -28C in my driveway last year. One whole week was below -18C.
Also, some of the 12V variants sold here seem to burn up 12V wiring
harnesses, and would probably overstress a DC-DC converter, if you had
a big one at all.
Seth
On Dec 15, 2004, at 1:10 AM, richard ball wrote:
i don'tknow if this is any help but here in the uk you can buy 12V
heater / defroster units for kit cars for around £30 and they work
great i've used them before.
Robb Zuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I use a "Vidal Sasoon" hair dryer.
Large, higher quality hair dryers
tend to be quieter than small ones. It runs well off my 96 Volt pack.
Most hair dryers, popcorn poppers, etc. have motors that run fine on
DC. I switch it off by pulling its plug out of a standard outlet
that's mounted in the cab -- I taped up the dryer's own switch because
it would get fried otherwise. Use two hair dryers if it's desperately
cold out -- It's amazing how great that hot air feels if you pump it
directly inside your coat :)
If the heat doesn't keep up with the window fog, crack open a window
to let out some moisture.
Robb
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 23:30:28 -0600, Robert MacConnell wrote:
Greetings fellows, I'd be interested in hearing about what folks are
using
to heat and particularly defrost their vans. My van is currently
equipped
with it's original(?) German made gasoline heater which doesn't work.
I'd
like to replace it with something electric. Thanks for any input!
Robert
MacConnell.
Regards
Richard
---------------------------------
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
EV folks
Hopefully a simple question. If you had 30x200A Li ion batteries giving just
over 100 Volts and intend to use an advanced dc 9.1inch motor, which would be
the preferred controller? (advanced dc don't seem to want to tell me!) I've
heard a Curtis may not be too happy with this set up. Right or wrong?
Steve
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Steve and All,
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> EV folks
>
> Hopefully a simple question. If you had 30x200A Li
> ion batteries giving just over 100 Volts and intend
> to use an advanced dc 9.1inch motor, which would be
> the preferred controller? (advanced dc don't seem to
> want to tell me!) I've heard a Curtis may not be too
> happy with this set up. Right or wrong?
That depends, what's you application?
Li-ions are not known for high output though they
can if built for it. Are the Thunder Sky?
Because they can't put out that much amps, you
don't need that big a controller or motor so a 400 amp
Curtis would do ok and a 9" is a bit big for them too.
If you need more amps for power, using another
batt string of Orbitals, or ni-cads would be a way to
go but complicated.
Check out Doug Hartly's posts over the last month
or 2 for more on this.
A better, cheaper way may be Ni-cads at a higher
voltage so you get both power and range at a 20 yr
batt life.
But until the app, more details on it's purpose
are known, it's hard to advise you.
HTH's,
jerry dycus
>
> Steve
>
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Dress up your holiday email, Hollywood style. Learn more.
http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 13:48:09 +0000 (GMT), [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> EV folks
>
> Hopefully a simple question. If you had 30x200A Li ion batteries giving just
> over 100 Volts and intend to use an advanced dc 9.1inch motor, which would be
> the preferred controller? (advanced dc don't seem to want to tell me!) I've
> heard a Curtis may not be too happy with this set up. Right or wrong?
First, A 9" ADC is an fairly oversized motor for any vehicle that will
work well on 30 x 200AH cells. Second, I'm not surprised ADC didn't
answer :) I've used a Curtis 1221-7401B and a Zapi H2 with 28 of
these cells. They didn't seem "unhappy" particularly.
Regards
Evan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004, Neon John wrote:
Panty-waisted limp wrists, liberal drones and the computer.helpless use
MacOS.
MacOS is Unix. I have code in the Linux kernel, and a pile of other
projects, so I must be one of the first 2;-)
WinXP on this laptop
not geeky enough. i had linux on my laptop before the current mac.
more on-topic, i have this vague plan to use a gps receiver, gpsd, and
possibly an extension to xastir to help me track energy usage, eventually.
in particular, tracking elevations, distances and speeds (hopefully
against battery use, but i need more gear for that) will tell me what kind
of efficiency i see, and give me hints what to do about it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd tried contacting them in April of 1999, and commented that it seemed to be
"vapor-ware" (e.g. mostly smoke and mirrors):
http://solstice.crest.org/discussion/ev/199904/msg00906.html
Here is the core of the email:
------------------
I sent for the info package, and gripped about the web page being fluffy, with
no hard numbers and got this reply:
"
The brochure we are sending you should answer many of your questions. The
web page was designed to have you respond to us with inquiries. The
eCycle is expected to be available next year and should retail for about
$4000. You are welcome to come visit us and see that the eCycle is not
vapor ware. Please let us know if you have any further questions.
"
That was it, not even a sig line. The return address was ""eCycle" <[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>" but the sender was "[EMAIL PROTECTED] (ecycle)".
------------------
Here it is 4 1/2 years later and we still only see the smoke.
OTOH, my Honda Goldwing conversion is still not done, and has only been driven
around the block at 25mph with borrowed plates. But then I'm a hobbyist, I
don't claim to do this for a living.
Mike Shipway
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rich Rudman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 06:35 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: eCycle, was Re: Real or Memorex?
>
> Ken quickly there are more problems than just the hype with Ecycle...
> Where they go thier motors designed... how the controllers were intended to
> work were all problematic.
> There was a lack of solid enginnering support, and then a LOT of upset
> customers....
> They got the flash and smoke down, but they got there with a shakey
> foundation. Now what they really need is solid product or we write them all
> off as Scam artists.
> What hurts is all ther promblems could have been solved with a couple of
> phone calls to the right motor and controller folks....here on this list.
> Thier drive was a BLDC drive, the motor in the Ecycle is the same kind as
> the one in the Minibike from hell, and I have a marine drive that used the
> proto type they cloned thier big motor from.
> I have driven the marine motor out on Lake Mead, and the Minibike has been
> seen in a number of places.
> So... They needed a motor/controller Geek.
> They kept biffing the controller. Then said it was too hard to make, and
> took advanced designs.
> There are atleast 6 of us here on this list, besides me....That consider
> BLDC simple design work nowdays.
>
> The 'could have beens' in this light EV world are what is ripping my heart
> out. The Greed, before the hard work to make a real difference, just
> tarnishes the whole buisness.
>
>
--- End Message ---
