EV Digest 3995
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: High current li-ions from Sony
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) 300zx
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Another EV Joins the Wayland Fleet
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Another EV Joins the Wayland Fleet
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Claimed TZero 1/4 mile time from ACP
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Another EV Joins the Wayland Fleet
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: AC musings
by Chris Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Need a Datsun (Maybe OT)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: Simple First Conversion Query
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Another EV Joins the Wayland Fleet
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: wire cutting machine
by Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: More EV ideas
by "johnk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Manufacturing an input shaft
by Dragan Stancevic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Manufacturing an input shaft
by Dragan Stancevic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Cedric's bike - inspiring!
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: wire cutting machine
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Power steering...wahoo!!
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: wire cutting machine
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: Power steering...wahoo!!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
20) (OT)Re: Cedric's bike - inspiring!
by "John Westlund" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Refining Hybrid truck ideas
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Sealing a Curtis controller
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Another EV Joins the Wayland Fleet
by "M.G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Refining Hybrid truck ideas
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
3.6 or 3.7v nominal and corresponding 4.1 or 4.2V end of charge is
determined by cathode material:
oxyde manganeze lithium or oxyde cobalt lithium.
So there is no "average" voltage, two li-ion cell type coexist.
Sony use first one because manganeze cathode is easier to securise for
public market than second one, more powerfull and so instable.
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EV Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: High current li-ions from Sony
> > Looking at the specs, these Li-Ion cells should put out
something
> > around 1400 W/kg. This is quite a bit better than any available AGM. It
> > would be a little less than a HP per pound. Not too shabby. The energy
> > density looks to be close to 100 Whr/kg. This would be about 3 times the
> > range of a lead-acid pack of the same weight.
> >
>
> Their low current version is twice the Whr/kg, but with the VT's, the
question
> is what are they using for nominal voltage, since voltage range
(2.5V-4.1V) is
> lower than (3.0V-4.2V) of an "average" li-ion? I guess we'll find out when
> these get on the market somewhere! Next question is where and how much...
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Shanab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 11:55 AM
Subject: 300zx
>
> I can't believe this, I chose the 300zx because it was a fast car with a
> small motor, 3liter V6
I did some more driving and Bob the owner came by , He's quite
happy but then at one time years ago he was thinking about a city car , you
know the 48v cheeses wedge, they make any conversion look good . To me , as
I'm comparing it to all the other EV's I've done its about the same as my
ford ranger, which is at the bottom of the list. sorry , but before you get
to far down the path , now is the time to do some thinking. I'll take it to
get it weighed at the junk yard Tuesday , . I have 26 golf cart batteries as
Bob wanted the most distance and speed and pickup didn't matter , he said 45
mph was all he needed
but wanted a 50 mile range , really wanted a 75mile range so I was
pressed to get in as many GC bats as possible. It has a 1k zilla which is
set to 500 battery amps and a net gain motor 9" , . I one time helped
somebody do a ford explorer and that at least had the lots of room inside ,
suv , rolling living room thing going for it , . There are lots of little
things yet to be done that will make the 300zx do better , still I'm a
little disheartened with it. I will say this , the drive train and brakes
are
big enough to handle lots of power ,
> I will have to see where the weight is and do what I can, If it doesn't
> work out, I have a lightened Mitsubishi PU with a tired motor and clutch
> in it(~2200 lbs) and a reinforced frame and roll cage.
I have also done a Mitsubishi PU , www.grassrootsev.com and THIS WAS THE
BEST pick up so far , my gut feel is that the mits with 18 bat would
perform that same as the zx with 26 , .
One of the convert you car cd's is on the mits but you sound like you
wouldn't need it to do the conversion. :-)
> What ar the particulars of the 300zx you did?
> year, batteries,controller, motor? performance and range
> hints
I drove the zx 30 miles at 50 and used 65 ah. I drove the Mitsubishi pu ( 20
GC bats) the same 30 at 65 using 75ah.
Steve Clunn
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seth Murray wrote:
> Ok guys, its finally happened, John has cracked. He's been on the
> edge for some years now, but I think this is where we draw the
> line. :)
Naa... he cracked up a *long* time ago! Luckily for him (and us :-)
life's a lot more fun this way!
--
"Well, I've wrestled with reality for 35 years, doctor, and I'm happy
to state I finally won out over it." -- Elwood P. Dowd (in "Harvey")
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Jessica & Donald Jansen & Crabtree wrote:
> Hi-
> Walking under a load on a forklift is a bad thing. We once had a 3,000 lb.
> panel saw fall 4ft. before you could blink when the pressure hose to the lift
> side
> of the cylinder broke.
I bet that thing really squirted hydraulic fluid everywhere!
> Garage lifts have mechanical dogs that prevent this.I don't
> know if newer forklifts have this function or not.
Good point. Whenever we work under the mast area, we 'always' block and chain
everything.
It's pretty easy to block the inner mast rails with 4 X 4's on each side
secured within
the mast channel. For my car lifting around here, I'll make up custom square
tube steel
mast rail blocks. The motto when working around forklifts, is safety first,
period. The
first time I had to jack up a 9000 lb. Crown lift truck then stick my head
under the power
unit, all I could think about, was my head squishing like a grape! We use wide
heavy solid
rubber pads about 4 inches thick and place four of them under the power unit
stacked two
high...it's very safe and secure that way, and nearly impossible for them to
fail in any
way.
My forklift has nearly new ram seals, fittings, and hoses. The mast stubs and
rollers are
also in great shape.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
John Westlund wrote:
> I found this on acpropulsion's site:
>
> "The Li Ion tzero accelerates from 0-60 mph in 3.6 seconds
> and covers the quarter mile in 12.2 seconds. Top speed is
> 102 mph (rpm limited). Estimated top speed with appropriate
> gearing is 140 mph."
I'd love to see the time slips. It's easy to calculate what it can do. It's
much harder to
get the traction in order to launch hard enough to negate the rpm limited top
speed. To do
12.2 seconds in the 1/4 mile and only hit 102, means this car was actually
trying to run a
mid 11 second run, but when top speed flattened at 102 long before the finish
line, extra
time was added to simply run-out the last section of track.
> They should take it to a NEDRA event, because they have a
> world record if what they claim is true. They need to prove
> it.
I agree, but they certainly don't 'have' to. The kit car's body is nothing like
a
real production car's, and is feather light and packed with lots of electric
power. I
admire AC propulsion's design capabilities and know this little machine is
wickedly
quick, so I'd better pick my knuckles off the ground and get busy preparing
White
Zombie to run a 12.1 @ 103 mph :-) ....yeah, like that's an easy task!
If I could convince Hawker to set me up with 28 of their 22 lb. 26 ahr
batteries (2400 amp
short circuit rated), a 336V pack would drop 344 lbs. out of the car compared
to its
present 288V pack of Orbitals, and 184 lbs. lighter than when the car was at
240V and ran
its 12.99 @ 101 mph. Off the line acceleration would be quicker than ever, so
the 60 ft.
time would drop, and with high voltage available at the series wired motors the
1/8th mile
would be cooking! When tortured at the 'hit-the-button' point, the pack would
sag, but
would also put out tremendous current, and I'd probably get an honest 350 hp at
the
motors. After that, as the pack would recover while the motors spooled up, with
336V on
tap, I imagine the pack might raise back up to as high as 200V under the
paralleled motor
load at high rpms. This could make for a 112-115 mph trap speed. I think a very
low 12 or
even a high 11 second ET is possible.
Oh well, the stuff of dreams. For now, I'll concentrate on getting the best ET
I can with
24 of the 40 lb. Orbitals. A 960 lb. pack is pretty heavy, so the car is now
160 lbs.
heftier than when it ran the 12.99 last spring. The question is, will the
increased weight
be offset by the increased power?
See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Regarding forklist that drop things:
I would have to seriously agree. I had a ramp snap and collapse once
while working under one of my cars. It wasn't overloaded, it just went
crunch.
Fortunately I had a set of jackstands under there "just in case" thus I
was not squished like bug. If you're working under your car, please use
jackstands. They're really pretty stupid, and don't have many places to
fail.
If I'm not under the car, I don't worry so much. But as soon as my head
is going under, jackstands go on either side.
Chris
Jessica & Donald Jansen & Crabtree wrote:
Also great to use for working under your smaller cars. If you build a pair
of fork extensions from channel with a fixed and an adjustable pad on each
you can slip right in the side, catch a couple frame points and lift most
cars to a comfortable height just like a garage lift. Should safety chain
the mast so it can't tilt tho. Set a deal like this up for a buddy and he
has used it for years. David Chapman.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Switching to r134 allows us to use a post '95 compressor, these are
"scroll compressors" and take less energy than the piston type, Anyone
know how many watts to turn the newer style compressors?
The Prizm had 134a in 1994 IIRC, so it uses a newer style compressor.
Not sure if it's a swash-plate piston or a rotary compressor though (I
could check if people really want to know) Somewhere around 1kw of
battery power is used to run it. Not much really, as on a 30 minute
drive (which is about as far as the Prizm will go anyway) it's only
1.5ah out of the pack, or about a mile and a half less range.
Now that I think about it, the lack of engine heat probably makes the
whole system a lot more efficient. This could explain why it just works
so well: There's no added heat under the hood.
The trick though I guess is getting a 1hp-ish motor to run the
compressor. On the Prizm it's a 300 volt brushless DC motor that is
direct coupled to the compressor and runs right off the pack. I doubt a
12 volt motor would work. However, someone might make a 1-ish hp 120
volt motor, and since these are usually universal, you could run that
right off the average EV main pack (120v) with reasonable wires.
Chris
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
When I was in high school a good friend of mine drove this slightly abused
Datsun 210 wagon. It was an ugly orange color and she called it "agent orange".
I had something of a twisted plan to try and find one of these in decent shape
and maybe (I say MAYBE) turn it into an EV. It's by no means ideal, and It
might turn out to be more a NEV than a true EV (say an E-tek and 36-48v worth of
bats.
Or I might just fix it up and use it as a "I don't care what happens to it"
commuter just to see the look on her face.
Anyway,
1: Anyone got a source on a mechanically functional Datsun 210?
2: Any ideas on where to get an adaptor plate to fit it?
James
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On Saturday, January 1, 2005, at 06:50 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
One question for anyone is what are the easiest donor cars to convert?
Electro automotive mentions the VW Rabbit and Porsche 914. But others
say the old VW Bug/Beetle because the engine can unbolt right off the
tranny.
I'm doing my first conversion right now. It's a 1971 VW Karmann Ghia,
which is just like a VW Bug but better looking and more aerodynamic. I
picked it because of the extreme ease of replacing the motor, and
because everything's right out in the open and easy to work on. And I
like the looks of the car. Bonus: the Ghia seems to have more interior
space for mounting batteries than the Bug. I am fitting eight Orbitals
behind the back seat and eight up front where the gas tank used to be.
Installing the electric motor was the first thing I did. Removing the
ICE is very simple. Jack up the car in the rear, use a lift or wooden
blocks to chock up the motor, remove four bolts and various wires and
hoses, then lower the motor to the floor and drag it out from under the
car. One buddy, a couple of jack stands, and some hand tools are all
that's really required. I actually gave mine to the guy who loaned me
the trailer to pick up the car. We dropped the motor right on the
trailer in like ten minutes and he carried it off. No need to take out
the tranny.
Get one of the VW manuals, or borrow it from the library. I have three
- Haynes, Bentley, and the Idiot Guide by John Muir. There's good
stuff in all of them, and they all describe how to remove the ICE. The
Idiot Guide is probably the most appropriate for someone without all
the tools assumed by the official Bentley manual.
(I also recommend Convert It! and Build Your Own Electric Vehicle. The
first has loads of practical advice, and the second is full of formulas
to help you calculate what your car's performance will be. They're
both about ten years old, though, so cross-check against this list
where appropriate.)
I spent an afternoon installing the electric motor, but I was working
alone and being extremely careful. I also forgot to reinstall the
throwout bearing :( and had to do it again. I built a little engine
hoist (out of a sawhorse kit and a Harbor Freight winch) which helped a
lot. When the motor, adapter, and clutch are all bolted together it's
really too heavy for me to lift it alone, so I would have saved a lot
of time if I'd had a helper.
My blog describes the process here:
http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/weblog/ghia/wheels_turning.html
(Sorry, no pictures yet.)
And on the VW, if the replacement electric motor just bolts to the
tranny and the other end just hangs without a motor mount support,
wouldn't that be a stressor to the motor particularly when going over
bumps in the road?
Well, yes, but remember the gas motor just hung there too, and it
weighed about twice what the electric motor does. If you're not drag
racing, you probably don't need to worry about it. If you *are* drag
racing, there are a number of bolt-on kits for VW dragsters that add
stiffening where needed. (My Ghia apparently used to be a drag racer
at some point in its life and has some custom transmission mounting
hardware.) Lots of people have made conversions out of air-cooled VWs
- check the EV Album and browse for VWs.
I chose the Electro Automotive motor adapter and I'm very impressed
with it. It was very simple to install and quite robust. If I have
trouble with my conversion, I'm sure it won't be with the Electro Auto
adapter.
I decided not to use a kit because all the ones I've seen assume
flooded batteries, which I didn't want in my conversion. I also didn't
see any kits specifically for the Ghia.
But I certainly plan to buy whatever I can. 8inch Sparrow motor from
EV America. The motor adapter from Electro Auto. (If you use a
Sparrow motor, tell the adapter people. The shaft is longer than the
standard ADC 8incher.) Heater and pre-wired weathertight wiring boxes
from Canadian EV. Charger and regulators from Manzanita Micro. One of
Jonathan Dodge's customized Grizzly controllers. Batteries and wiring
from a local automotive electrical specialty shop. I just learned that
there's an electric motor shop up the road from me in Redmond - thanks
for the post, John Wayland. They should be able to advance the timing
on my motor. If I had a do-over, I'd probably pick a WaRP motor, with
bigger commutators and pre-drilled advance holes.
I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing, so I'm trying to Keep It
Simple and buy parts and expertise from people who *do* know what
they're doing. This list has been absolutely invaluable. I'd never
try this without you folks - thanks again. It's also hooked me up with
some local EVers who have also been a lot of help.
And yes, I'm having a blast. This will be SOOOO cool when it's done!
I want to take it to Woodburn in July - we'll see.
Mark Freidberg
Best of luck,
Doug
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lift really heavy things....
like EVs, and battery packs...
He's gonna keep it usefull.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: Another EV Joins the Wayland Fleet
> Are you going to put a zilla in it? What is it's top speed? What on
> earth are you going to _do_ with it?!?
>
> >> Got pictures?
> >>
> >> How high does it go?
> >>
> >> Joe Smalley
> >
> > Considering it's John, you've got to figure it's good for at least one
> > story,
> > maybe more - he's gotta stack 'em pretty high to make room...
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
Is there such a machine that will cut 22 gauge wire to different
specified length from 3 to 6 inches? It doesn't have to be precision
maybe with in .050 inch. Thanks in advance for any info. Lawrence
Rhodes..........
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
A teenager?
Sorry couldn't resist.
I don't know of any machine you could buy easily, but you could rig
something up with some wheels and a solenoid:
Wheel connected to trip a microswitch at set intervals of rotation,
firing a solenoid with a cutter attached.
Add a rotary encoder and an MCU to make it significantly more fancy.
Just trying to help, that's what I'd do if I had to make over 1,000 pieces.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 10:47 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: More EV ideas
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> What about... an "acceleration pack" or "hybrid pack" -- having some
> batteries which are used for acceleration (maybe AGMs), and others
> for cruising.......cut
No, it's not a bad idea at all!
[John K] What about using a cap-bank in between the batteries and
controller? Do these new fangled controllers offer the option of one or
two auxiliary control lines? My thinking is that you would need to come
up with an energy recovery scheme in order not to waste the energy in
the caps at the end of the trip. This idea would also speed up the
turn-on time of switches and save a little energy there.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Friday 31 December 2004 07:45, Seth Allen wrote:
> A few things to think about:
> If the rough OD of the transmission shaft that is not splined (between
> the bearing and spline that would go into the clutch center) is larger
> than the clearance hole in the adapter that metric mind sells, then
> you could machine it so that you could bond them. If we get to that
> point, I will walk you thru the calculation to determine the required
> bond area.
No, it's not larger. I was thinking of making another adapter instead.
> This is a longitudinal transmission, to the input shaft is designed to
> supported on the flywheel end, but the motor will do that.
Yes, the motor shaft would center and support the transmission input shaft.
> A concern or three pop into my mind:
>
> High speed balance of the adapter if it has an unfilled keyseat
Yes, I've thought of that, so I would either make another splined adapter w/o
the keyway, that could be directly bonded to the transmission shaft, or make
an adapter that would bond with the input shaft and couple with the motor
adapter through a keyway.
> Clutchless operation: Synchros aren't made to slow down an ac iduction
> motor rotor. So unless you have a computer match the shifts (with regen
> or additional speed) or you can do it, expect short synchro life. Been
> there, done that both ways, and the computer operated version works. In
> general, the human cannot hear the motor, so cannnot match the speed
> well enough.
At first the shifting would be done manually by looking at the rpm's of the
motor and transmission input shaft on a laptop computer, but the plan is to
use CAS later.
> High speed: If you go clutchless but single gear, your transaxle may
> not take the high input shaft speeds well, and you will suffer some
> additional parasitic losses spinning the input shaft so quickly. This
> is one thing I characterized on an Eaton transmission at my previous
> job. In fact, I would not suggest operation at speeds significantly
> higher than engine redline input speeds. Ever. For safety and
> longevity. Which means you maight consider shifting if you hadn't.
I intend to use all the gears, 1-5. I also intend to measure the critical
speeds for all gears and componenets to figure out the maximum rpms. But in
most cases I would be driving things at a similar speed as stock engine did.
Thanks for your suggestions, I still haven't decided if I should pursue shaft
mod yet but I appreciate your input. One thing that I still need to figure
out is if I could perhaps find a shaft with the primary and secondary gear
mesh set at a different ratio, but all the gears 1-5 remaining the same. That
would allow me to use higher rpms from the motor and gain more torque, on the
tranny output shaft while maintaining the "safe" output rpms. The
transmission should be able to handle more torque since it's also used in
models with a V6. But again that's just an idea, I might not be able to get
what I'm looking for.
--
Peace can only come as a natural consequence
of universal enlightenment. -Dr. Nikola Tesla
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Saturday 01 January 2005 18:30, M.G. wrote:
> Why dont you have the motor shaft machined to fit over the input shaft
> of the transmission.
Two reasons:
1. Because output shaft is not that much larger in diameter so to fit one over
the other would require turning one shaft and boring the other which would
make both shafts fall bellow safety.
2. I would preffer to make mods on the tranny where parts are readily
available. If screw up turning the tranny shaft I can always replace it with
something from a local junk yard.
--
Peace can only come as a natural consequence
of universal enlightenment. -Dr. Nikola Tesla
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> Wonder if Rev. Gadget has a pew for those kind of
> prayers...
>
>
Could be... I'm pitching a new show that is based on
alternative energy/transportation, renewable
resources, and sustainable architecture. I want to do
a show that solves problems for people in an
environmentally responsible way.
Gadget
=====
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:58 AM 2/01/05 -0800, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
Is there such a machine that will cut 22 gauge wire to different specified
length from 3 to 6 inches? It doesn't have to be precision maybe with in
.050 inch. Thanks in advance for any info. Lawrence Rhodes..........
Hi Lawrence
What a leading question....it would seem that you are after a *lot* of
short pieces of wire.
There are machines, and they are generally expensive. But most of the good
ones also strip the wire ends and crimp ferrules on as well. If you contact
a switchboard manufacturer they should be able to supply you with cut wire
lengths at a reasonable price, or direct you to the company that they
sub-out wire-up work to.
However, if you are a cheapskate like most of us tend to be, since 22 gauge
is not that thick, and I assume PVC insulation (?) which is not that
strong, how about using a papercutting guillotine with a stop clamped to it?
Why do you need so many 3 to 6 inch wires, anyway?
James.
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6 miles with 20 Deg F lead???
Not bad I would say.
If you need longer runs make a fast high amp run.... Then charge it
quickly and take that longer run.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Bohm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 10:29 PM
Subject: Power steering...wahoo!!
> Hi everyone, and hapy new year!
>
> John, that forklift sounds awesome! I can't wait to see pictures of the
> finished product.
>
> I just took my first run in the 200sx with power steering. It was
> great. I have been frustrated by the PS for awhile, wishing the 200sx
> never had had it. I probably would have driven it for awhile without,
> but the state inspection requires the PS to be working if the vehicle
> originally had it.
>
> I took the advice of several list members to use the Toyota MR2 pump.
> After having a new fitting put on the existing power steering hose,
> things went together very nicely.
>
> When I first turned the pump on, I thought there was a problem with my
> wiring - I couldn't hear it over my blower and vacuum pump. I put my
> hand on the power steering pump to see if I could feel it running. I
> couldn't. Hmm...I turned off my motor blower, and then I could hear a
> whine. When I started turning the steering wheel, it made a more
> noticeable whine, but certainly no worse than the original power
> steering pump. I was very impressed. Altogether, the 200sx is quieter
> than it was with an ICE. Much quieter with the vacuum pump off. I need
> some better rubber mounts to take out some of the vibration noises.
>
> I'm loving the EV! The only thing that has been a reality check is the
> range. With only 12 Orbitals, my range in the 20-30 degree weather
> seems to top out at about 6 miles. That gets me to all the necessary
> places I need to go, but limits me a bit more than I thought it would.
> Oh well. I look forward to a bit more range in the summer. Maybe 10
miles?
>
>
> --
> - EV Source -
> Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
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Laughter aside
Lawerence..
T&B makes production cut and prep machines that do this.
Thomas and Betts.
Heart Interface had one in the 90s when I was contracting with Damon
Crockett. This is WAY last Decade type stuff.
But...
You asked, you now have data crumbs to follow.
They were in the 10K$ range, and made 1000s of custom precision cut and
stripped wire a pieces a hour. This is real heavy production wire harness
equipment.
I find a bored EE from the Navy, works very well...
how many pieces???
and what would you be willing to pay??? in cent each or Bucks per hundreds.
The new year is here...
I am off to digikey and Mouser land to spend my money for the month....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Klingensmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: wire cutting machine
> Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> > Is there such a machine that will cut 22 gauge wire to different
> > specified length from 3 to 6 inches? It doesn't have to be precision
> > maybe with in .050 inch. Thanks in advance for any info. Lawrence
> > Rhodes..........
> > Lawrence Rhodes
> > Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> > Book 4/5 doubler
> > Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 415-821-3519
>
> A teenager?
> Sorry couldn't resist.
> I don't know of any machine you could buy easily, but you could rig
> something up with some wheels and a solenoid:
> Wheel connected to trip a microswitch at set intervals of rotation,
> firing a solenoid with a cutter attached.
> Add a rotary encoder and an MCU to make it significantly more fancy.
>
> Just trying to help, that's what I'd do if I had to make over 1,000
pieces.
>
> --
> Martin K
> http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
>
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Ryan,
Fill us in on the details!! Some of us don't remember the original
post and I'll be looking for an electrically driven power steering pump
soon. How it was hooked up, amp draw, how you did the whole adaptation, etc.
Thanks
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Bohm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 3:29 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Power steering...wahoo!!
Hi everyone, and hapy new year!
John, that forklift sounds awesome! I can't wait to see pictures of the
finished product.
I just took my first run in the 200sx with power steering. It was
great. I have been frustrated by the PS for awhile, wishing the 200sx
never had had it. I probably would have driven it for awhile without,
but the state inspection requires the PS to be working if the vehicle
originally had it.
I took the advice of several list members to use the Toyota MR2 pump.
After having a new fitting put on the existing power steering hose,
things went together very nicely.
When I first turned the pump on, I thought there was a problem with my
wiring - I couldn't hear it over my blower and vacuum pump. I put my
hand on the power steering pump to see if I could feel it running. I
couldn't. Hmm...I turned off my motor blower, and then I could hear a
whine. When I started turning the steering wheel, it made a more
noticeable whine, but certainly no worse than the original power
steering pump. I was very impressed. Altogether, the 200sx is quieter
than it was with an ICE. Much quieter with the vacuum pump off. I need
some better rubber mounts to take out some of the vibration noises.
I'm loving the EV! The only thing that has been a reality check is the
range. With only 12 Orbitals, my range in the 20-30 degree weather
seems to top out at about 6 miles. That gets me to all the necessary
places I need to go, but limits me a bit more than I thought it would.
Oh well. I look forward to a bit more range in the summer. Maybe 10 miles?
--
- EV Source -
Zillas, PFC Chargers, and other EV stuff at great prices
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
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Reverend Gadget:
>Could be... I'm pitching a new show that is based on
>alternative energy/transportation, renewable
>resources, and sustainable architecture. I want to do
>a show that solves problems for people in an
>environmentally responsible way.
A show of that nature might actually get me to turn on the
TV again.
Be sure to let us know how it goes.
That would be awesome to air on national television Otmar's
Porsche leaving a 20-ft. trail of rubber, or Wayland using
Meanie to dust off a $40k sports car.
Think of the possibilities if Rudman would get his Fiero
going, and be able to pull 10s with it.
As for sustainable architecture, I'm assuming you intend to
cover its history as well, with the things Buckminsterfuller
designed/advocated?
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That's something I'll have to look into. I'm not sure how tough it would be
to put the sprocket on the drum plus I'd have to do the oil the chain thing
periodically. A kevlar belt maybe? I'm really hoping to be able to do the
front axle thing. It would help make it look more integrated and I could
tuck the motor in the engine bay. If I did the drum thing it would be a lot
easier to gear the motor down exactly where I want it to be and the truck
would be a lot lighter. Would I have to worry much about only driving one
side of the truck? A two motor setup? How would two motors handle going
around corners? As for the fuel monitoring it would have to be off the shelf
and if it ran off of Linux (I have an old PII laptop running Linux) that
would be perfect. I know nothing about writing programs. If anyone knows of
one, please post.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 1:05 AM
To: EVlist
Subject: RE: Refining Hybrid truck ideas
With todays newer fuel injected car can we plug a datalogger into the
diagnostic port to capture fuel injector and rpm data?
Would that provide us with a good fuel usage numbers. What about using a
meter with ascii out that is connected to a fuel injector that is
capable of measuring duty cycle or duration.
How about motorcycle chain to a motorcycle sprocket mounted on a "brake
drum extension". then mount the motor on the frame at the ceter of
rotation or use a tensioner.
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Hi all,
I have a Curtis 1221B-7401 and I need some advice. The end opposite the
electrical connections has
popped off and I need to seal it back up. It's a snug enough fit that I can't
put it back in
place. I looked inside and everything looks fine, no corosion, just nice shiny
parts. The other
end is also lifted about 1 sixteenth on just one side, but I'd prefer not to
pull this end off if
possible. I'd like to use a little sealant before I push it back into position.
I looked in the archives, remembering the posts back in the fall about the same
issue. One
recommendation included provision for thermal expansion (a ballon), preventing
pressure buildup.
Anyway, what should I use to glue it back together? Hi temp RTV sealant?
Something else? Has
anyone else made modifications for the expansion issue? Maybe just a hole in
the end piece with a
tube and some kind of filter to keep the spiders out and let the pressure
adjust? I imagine that
if there's any condensation when it cools down, the next time it heats up it
will dry itself out.
It won't be in the rain, but it will be under the hood.
Thanks
Dave Cover
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--- Begin Message ---
Is it a HYSTER ?
Seth Murray wrote:
if John has an EV with flooded cells...must be a forklift. I give him
about 24 hours before it's got twin Z2ks running off a high voltage
pack of orbitals and a 12" sub for every 10 pounds of battery :)
seth
On Jan 1, 2005, at 1:46 AM, John Wayland wrote:
Hello to All,
I'm the proud owner of another EV! It's a yellow three wheeler,
weighs about 7000 lbs.,
has four Prestolite motors, is front wheel drive, and runs off of
nearly 2000 lbs. of
flooded cells.
See Ya........John Wayland
--
'72 Datsun 240Z Electric Conversion
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
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--- Begin Message ---
Hehe, got your brain woken up and since you're stateside it's nearly bedtime
for you. Here in Japan, I haven't even been to lunch yet so I've got all day
to play with these ideas. ;-) And it's Monday morning here.
So then with two 6.7" motors, I wouldn't need to get the 96v ones to have a
bigger battery pack. I could use a 120v pack and each motor would only see
60v at the most and half of whatever amperage the controller is putting out.
This electrical stuff is starting to come back to me! That would also mean
the same power as a single 6.7" but it would be load would be shared by two
motors. If I mounted them to the axle, wouldn't I have trouble with
vibration possibly damaging the motors? I think i would feel safer with them
mounted to the frame.
This sounds like something tough welding that would require some serious
accuracy. I'm a good gas welder but probably not that good. Something I'll
need to draw up and hav a master welder take care of.
I don't want to mount anything in the bed or cut through the bed. A pusher
is possible but when I travel cross country to my next duty station I
wouldn't be able to tow that and my pure EV. I'm going to post this to the
list and maybe scrounge up some more input. Thanks.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 9:20 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Refining Hybrid truck ideas
Anything in series : voltage is split between them and current is the
same in them, if they are the same impedence, then each get 1/2 voltage.
The impedance changees with rpm and load on a DC motor and hince the
automatic differential action
2 6.7 with kevlar belt to rear axle...a tropica!
brake drums get hot! the trick would be to create a extender that also
serves as a heat sink, wait, I have a better idea
A larger bell shape over the drum and smaller than the rim, it contanis
the lug pattern and is just captured between the wheel and the axle. I
just happen to see a gear for a race bike leaning against the wall the
other day and they are huge.
A 6.7 is lighter than a 9" DC, maybe mounting it to the axle and letting
it be suspended just to simplify chain tension issues would be ok, you
will be able to react against the high unsprung weight with the added
weight of batteries.
I have no idea what kind of truck you have, but I have a mitsubishi and
this is an interesting thought
ok, another idea
My ole 56 internation 4x4 had an emergancy brake that was a drum on the
ent of the tranny, if we made a 2 piece driveline with a frame mounted
idler, a sprocket could be sandwitched where we connect the two
drivelines, there on the side that doesn't move relative to the frame we
mount the motor above it in the bed with an access hole for the chain.
We slide in the hybrid module. batteries and motor in to the baed like a
fith wheel hitch and bolt it down and then connect the chain and run the
controller cable through the rear window.
OR,wait,wait,
Here is a sneaky one
make a trailer, square reciever hitch single wheel that pushes, and
then one can stay at home on the charger while you are using the first
and switch mid day.
now you've done it, got my brain woken up!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>I'm starting to like your drive idea more and more. I could handle setting
>up two motors in series, nothing difficult about that. Two 96v 6.7" motors
>driving the drums with kevlar belts pushed with a DCP 600 or equivalent.
>Maybe even a Z1k Zilla. Is it the voltage or the amps or both that get cut
>in half when putting two motors in series? I just thought of something.
>Kevlar might not be a good choice. How heat resistant is Kevlar? These are
>the brake drums they will be connected to so brake heat might fatigue them
>over time. Or do rear drums not get very hot? Now the hard part will be
>finding sprockets to fit the diameter of the drum, or at least close enough
>that the outside of the drum can be machined to accept one. The sprocket
>idea will also allow me to pull the EV parts off if I decide to sell the
>truck. Thanks again Jeff.
>
>John
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 8:48 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Refining Hybrid truck ideas
>
>
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>
>
>>That's something I'll have to look into. I'm not sure how tough it would
be
>>to put the sprocket on the drum plus I'd have to do the oil the chain
thing
>>periodically. A kevlar belt maybe? I'm really hoping to be able to do the
>>front axle thing. It would help make it look more integrated and I could
>>tuck the motor in the engine bay. If I did the drum thing it would be a
lot
>>easier to gear the motor down exactly where I want it to be and the truck
>>would be a lot lighter. Would I have to worry much about only driving one
>>side of the truck?
>>
>>
>>
>Depends on how much power you are putting down, the effect would be
>greater as power goes up.
>
>
>
>>A two motor setup? How would two motors handle going
>>around corners?
>>
>>
>>
>If the motors are in series and DC, they will differential around the
>coner automatically. If they are AC, well ,the controller would have to
>adjust and that would be a seperate controller for each motor, $$$
>
>
>
>>As for the fuel monitoring it would have to be off the shelf
>>and if it ran off of Linux (I have an old PII laptop running Linux) that
>>would be perfect. I know nothing about writing programs. If anyone knows
of
>>one, please post.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>I had to wheel an old pentium(only thing with a serial port) on a
>kitchen cart out to my car and run a cable thru the window to a little
>circuit I found on the internet.
>I used hyperterminal and there was a constant stream of hex bytes for
>cars with digital dashes and in the header is all the fuel info, current
>Block learn multiplyier and such
>And all the error codes. I had plugged the crank 7x cranks sensor in the
>21x crank sensor plug and viasa-versa.(why are they the same plug and
>why are they next to each other ???)
>I found lots of software for corvette and transam and lotus, but they
>use the same computer. even holden, the name GM uses oversees.
> Just the ID bytes are different. Standard package headers,but had to
>get book from dealer to decipher codes for my particular vehicle, I was
>able to infer 75% of them from looking at the trans-am and corvette info
>on the web
>
>
>
>
>
>>John
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 1:05 AM
>>To: EVlist
>>Subject: RE: Refining Hybrid truck ideas
>>
>>
>>With todays newer fuel injected car can we plug a datalogger into the
>>diagnostic port to capture fuel injector and rpm data?
>>Would that provide us with a good fuel usage numbers. What about using a
>>meter with ascii out that is connected to a fuel injector that is
>>capable of measuring duty cycle or duration.
>>
>>How about motorcycle chain to a motorcycle sprocket mounted on a "brake
>>drum extension". then mount the motor on the frame at the ceter of
>>rotation or use a tensioner.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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