EV Digest 4035
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: 400 amp DC circuit breaker on Ebay
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Fund Raising for EV Causes?
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: geared bike hubs
by Martin K <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Building big EVs
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: Building big EVs, was Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: 400 amp DC circuit breaker on Ebay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Flexcharging NiCad. Smarts a bad boy doesn't have.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: PFC30 Rescues Dead Forklift
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: PFC30 Rescues Dead Forklift
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Backdoor Politics
by Danny Ames <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: 400 amp DC circuit breaker on Ebay
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Specs on SW192 contactors
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) New Beetle EV Conversion Update
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Flexcharging NiCad. Smarts a bad boy doesn't have.
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Deaf Scooter does it again. Red Beastie look out.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: New Beetle EV Conversion Update
by Frank Schmitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: NO POLITICS - READ THIS
by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: New Beetle EV Conversion Update
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: New Beetle EV Conversion Update
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) re jump start the 12v
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Old Beetle EV Conversion Update
by Brian Staffanson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: New Beetle EV Conversion Update
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Backdoor Politics...come on guys, knock it off!
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: geared bike hubs
by spidercats <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Power steering
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
The traction batteries will be in three separate boxes ( one where the
radiator was, one above the motor - where the engine head/manifolds were,
and one sunken into the trunk floor. )
Each box of batteries will have a fuse in the middle of that pack. I'll
also have smaller fuses ( KLK - types) for every other high-voltage line
from the pack ( pre-charge relay, DC-DC, heater, instrumentation, etc)
It seems to me that covers it. It there anything else I need safety-wise?
Phil
From: "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 400 amp DC circuit breaker on Ebay
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:32:40 -0800
Phil wrote:
>I bought it for my Echo, but decided to go breaker-less. I'l have two
>contactors ( one at each end of the controller) and, in a real emergency
(
>if the controller AND both contactors fail) , there's always the clutch.
Please tell me you have a fuse of two in the main pack! There are failure
modes other than a run-away EV. A pack short in two places to the frame
won't let you go anywhere, but could easily cause a fire.
Neon
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
While working on the net today I ran across an interesting way to raise
money for non-profit causes http://www.missionfish.org/About/about.jsp and I
immediately thought of EVAA and possibly NEDRA. Are these a non-profit (I
assume they are) and do they qualify? If the people in charge would check
into it and if doable register these organizations I know I for one will
list items with at least a portion of the proceeds going to these groups.
Yes I know, one could always do a direct donation but I think that this
might get a bigger bang for the buck as far as raising EV awareness. And it
might get used more because it can be construed as good for business. Big
picture, works for all. If this gets put into place please post to the list,
I am sure there are a lot of people that would contribute as well. I would
even consider putting EV fund raising items in my store for other people.
Cool thing is that any kind of item would work, not just EV related.
David Chapman.
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I don't want a 12" pulley hooked to a jackshaft hooked to a 10" sprocket
on a 24" bike. It looks like a science project as it is.
damon henry wrote:
Why not just change one of the pulley's. They are easy to come by in
just about any size and should be cheap.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<At a test drive down the interstate, the EV would go 92 mph power by the
outboard generator with about total combine weight of 9000 lbs for a 500
mile range on 20 gallons of gas.>>>
Not 500mi *at 92mph*, right? At least if you were driving something over 4 tons
nowadays, you wouldn't be very worried about being hit by an Escalade!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul G. wrote:
> That is almost funny. So your large Toyota Pickup can carry 1430 lbs.
> My baby Toyota Tacoma can carry almost one ton (curb weight was
> 27xx lbs and max weight is 4700 lbs).
Yes; amazing, isn't it? My little old 1974 Datsun pickup weighed 2379
lbs and could carry 1300 lbs (3680 GVWR). When stripped of its ICE
stuff, the glider only weighed 2100 lbs, so it could easily carry 40% of
its weight in batteries.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> It seems to me that covers it. It there anything else I need safety-wise?
>
> Phil
How 'bout a circuit breaker?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seems this Controller could take the bad boy output and civilize it.....Am I
hoping for too much. These guys are near Lee Hart. Lee got your ears on.
Lawrence Rhodes....
Our charge control will work with most sources as long as it is within
the amperage range of the controller. An NCHC60/48 would be a 60 amp
max. 48 volt controller. The price is $233.00 plus freight of $10.00 or
less. The controller will let the battery voltage of ( in your case) 40
cells, rise to 62 volts and then turn off and let the voltage drop to
about 55 volts and turn back on again. We don't regulate the incoming
voltage or amperage but watch the battery voltage very close. Even
though you are monitoring only 40 cells you can pass a higher voltage
through the switching contactor so you are able to charge any number of
cells you want to up to the capacity of your charge source. Flooded
cell NiCad's can usually be charged by voltage monitoring with no
problem. Dry sealed NiCad's are a completely different story and our
control will not work on them.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Web Site www.flexcharge.com
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Those are Cool!
My Dad had a few when I was growing up. I wish I still had them.
The 975lbs toy still sits next to the Orb Stack...Close by, but un used... I
gotta do somthing with it soon just to play with it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: PFC30 Rescues Dead Forklift
> Cool story John, looks like you have uncovered an auxiliary market for
> Rudman. Ruggedize the casing, add isolation and raise the price to suit
the
> market. Even a side line selling adapters. And with you as a salesman,
can't
> miss. Rich, just don't forget all us little people when you start
marketing
> the "Rudman Universal forklift service charger" and making the big bucks.
> Hmm in fact maybe that would lead to LOWER prices on the EV versions? :-).
> David Chapman.
>
> BTW Rich, was at the Junqueyard the other day looking for some product and
> resorting Junque and found a teeny tiny baby version of that monster you
> picked up here. Son #2 was helping me and asked what this little torpedo
> looking deal was that would fit in your hand, I told him it was an
aircraft
> dynomotor to convert one form of electricity to another. Blank look. Then
I
> explained that it was a super minature ver of the thing we had out in the
> arena on the trailer and the light popped on. Then he asked why an
airplane
> needed somthing like that and I got into voltage conversion, how things
were
> done before semiconductors etc. Led to one of the better discussions we
have
> had in some time.
>
> David Chapman
> Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
> http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
>
> <snipped>
>
> > What a great tool to have on my service truck, this little green box!
It's
> > compact and
> > light weight, it's flexible to where it can run off 120 vac or 240 vac,
> > it's flexible to
> > where it can charge pretty much any battery I might run across, and
it's
> > capable of
> > fairly high DC output levels. Things tend to get beat up in their life
> > aboard a forklift
> > service truck though, so it's back onto the clean shelf in my EV shop
> > where ti can keep
> > the Zombie properly fed.
> >
> > See Ya.....John Wayland
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 12:59 PM
Subject: PFC30 Rescues Dead Forklift
> Hello to All,
>
> I just returned from one of my road trips away from home again, as I was
in snowy central
> Oregon, in Bend, working on forklifts. This trip was a fun one as I was
using some of my
> EV stuff to get a big industrial battery up on charge.
> Snip a bit!
Hi All;
Wow! Great Story, the great old JW stories that we all know and love so
well. I can realate to this story, as I had a variac and bridge rectifier
setup YEARS ago, in my Railway Museum life, before I got full employment at
a real, well WE think it is, RR , Amtrak. I simply don't have the TIME 1
usta to do museums. But I always took the " Master Charger" Variac home
made plywood box, to the Museum's weekend events. "Gees" Will THAT charge
the E-6's batteries?" Off a 120 volt ' stench chord? "Of course! "Hook it up
to the locomotives batteries, only couild go up to less than the places
circuit breaker could do, same lousy power facter, of today with a Bad Boy
Variac. Woulda KILLED for a PFC 20 back in the 70's!
So ya hook it up and forget it. Go over and help change out a traction
motor on a trolley car, or some other long winded project. Go out to the
local eatery. RR Museum guyz are a bit like EVers, that way. Come back,
hours later and " Lets Fire up the Zephyr! Yeah!" Hit the starter, well the
main generators back then were the " Starters" Big contacter pulls in,
Carbody rocks a bit from the torque. Chuff.....Chuff, the mighty Diseasel
rumbles to life! A smoky , lusty,, amps surge back into the 60 volt "SLI"
battery ya have been charging for seemingly an eternity<g>! All from your
crappy, old ,Bad Boy!
Even today, if your RR runs Diseasels, all service points have jumper
cables, miles of #2 welding cable on reels to drag out to the Dead One to
the Live One. It's the same sporting event jump starting an auto, just a
larger terror factor. Dealing with 60 volts, the primary Loco voltage today.
There are nice big knife switches in the electrical lockers, you open them
up AFTER the engine is shut down, to store it, a " Ignition Switch" if you
like? These would make nice " Scram" switches for EV's. Anyhow, back to the
story. These are soooo nice gleaming in new copper, on SOME of the units<g>!
Most of them have been jumpered reverse polarity!, Zorched black, copper
snot all over the pristine white box, a story without words.A great 120 volt
DEAD SHORT! If you actually get anything comected! Amazing how many times
that , well, ya have a 50 percent chance of getting it wrong. Of course the
clamps may NOT be marked Pos and Neg? Yeah! That would take the sport out of
it. Sprayed a buncha our clamps with red paint to improve the odds. Cords
dragged through snow and mud in thre RR yard invironment, wore off most
markings. tying a knot in the Poz lead helped. I never saw a real charger in
a RR shop, like to let it charge all day @ 20 amps, to perk it up. Just
cables to jump start.
RR stuff comes in all voltages and battery sizes. A PFC-20 should be in
EVery Museums toolbox, today. Every Loco and car has it's differant voltage
and battery setup, Amtrak COULD be one of Rich's Best customers<g>! Or MAX
or Caltrans UP Santa Fe, or Whatever.
Other Stuff. Guess nobody else has any Radio Interference from PFC
chargers? I got no responses on my last query.
More Other Otuff. I have had a bit more interest in " Which carbody would
make a good electric?" Hondas, Jettas, Golfs. Hyandai's Kia's I try to say
any light car that you would like to drive EVEN as a gas. I like Hatchbacks.
Hmmm, they seem to be making a comeback as well as Station Wagons? I always
say a Doner Car choice is a very personnal thing, no one size fits all,
anymore. Sorta like Life.
Now I am the happy owner of the Rest of Seth's Nicads, they all went to
live in CT interestingly enough. Has any OTHER Lister done a EV with that
size 660. Mine are GE's interestingly enough.They REALLY will do 30 ah? How
much AMPS can ya expect from such a small dainty cell? I would think, unless
you were gunna do 200 volts or more you would hafta parallel them?
Just a few Monday AM thoughts,
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree with John Wayland.
Danny Ames...
No one wants to sanitize the EVDL to where it's just dull techno-info, but at
the same
time, no one wants to open his email only to find a seemingly never ending
administration
bashing, social ills commentary, anti war propaganda, hyper enviro cataclysmic
hand
wringing, etc., etc.
The above stated, I was glad to hear about the Limbaugh comments and have taken
action.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Phil wrote:
>Each box of batteries will have a fuse in the middle of that pack. I'll
>also have smaller fuses ( KLK - types) for every other high-voltage line
>from the pack ( pre-charge relay, DC-DC, heater, instrumentation, etc)
>
>It seems to me that covers it. It there anything else I need safety-wise?
It sounds like you have it covered.
Neon
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know the amp rating on the Curtis/Albright SW-192 reversing
set? A couple were given to me in a box of parts. They seem a bit
small for EV duty, but I'd love to use them to do electric reverse on my
Z1k 180VDC MR2. They might be ok given that average current on the MR2
is pretty low (rarely more than 250 battery amps in normal driving) and
they would never be switching under load.
Thanks
Mark Farver
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It has been a while since I have updated my web site - I have been busy
working on my EV. So I spent this morning getting it all up to date:
* rear battery boxes installed with heaters
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryBoxConstruction.html
* vacuum system installed
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_VacuumSystem.html
* PFC charger purchased and installed
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_ChargerPFC30.html
* batteries selected an ordered
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatterySelection.html
* and, FINALLY the adapter plate has been finished (after 4 months in the
machine shop) - and the drive has been installed.
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_AdapterPlate.html
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_EngineMount.html
Take a look - all feedback is appreciated!
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No. You need a resistor, variac, inductor, capacitor bank, or some other
current control method. They only turn on or turn off based on the pack
voltage. They do not limit the current.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 8:27 AM
Subject: Flexcharging NiCad. Smarts a bad boy doesn't have.
> Seems this Controller could take the bad boy output and civilize it.....Am
I
> hoping for too much. These guys are near Lee Hart. Lee got your ears on.
> Lawrence Rhodes....
>
> Our charge control will work with most sources as long as it is within
> the amperage range of the controller. An NCHC60/48 would be a 60 amp
> max. 48 volt controller. The price is $233.00 plus freight of $10.00 or
> less. The controller will let the battery voltage of ( in your case) 40
> cells, rise to 62 volts and then turn off and let the voltage drop to
> about 55 volts and turn back on again. We don't regulate the incoming
> voltage or amperage but watch the battery voltage very close. Even
> though you are monitoring only 40 cells you can pass a higher voltage
> through the switching contactor so you are able to charge any number of
> cells you want to up to the capacity of your charge source. Flooded
> cell NiCad's can usually be charged by voltage monitoring with no
> problem. Dry sealed NiCad's are a completely different story and our
> control will not work on them.
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Web Site www.flexcharge.com
>
>
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 415-821-3519
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Harrier147:
http://www.visforvoltage.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=13&t=1495&s=375c072093e37e15d88b2f01634591b4
Harrier147: ====
Harrier147:
http://www.visforvoltage.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=13&t=1493&s=375c072093e37e15d88b2f01634591b4
Harrier147: ====
Harrier147:
http://www.visforvoltage.com/forums/index.php?s=375c072093e37e15d88b2f01634591b4&act=ST&f=13&t=1105&st=30
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* vacuum system installed
http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_VacuumSystem.html
This brings to mind...is there any reason you couldn't hide the vacuum
pump *inside* a vacuum reservoir? If you muffled the output and
isolated it mechanically, the vacuum itself should help quiet things
down a bit.
-Frank
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Roden wrote:
> Look, folks. What we all have in common is an interest in EVs. Leave
> the partisan politics out of it, COMPLETELY. If it makes you
> feel better, write
> what you think, but then DELETE IT and post without the
> political rant.
Hi David and everyone,
Here's the list charter, from http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html :
"The EV Electric Vehicle Discussion Mailing List is intended to provide a
forum to discuss the current state of the art and future direction of
electric vehicles. It is *not* intended to discuss either EV appropriateness
or comparisons with other transportation primary drive modes such as the
venerable internal combustion engine. Those "discussions" are best relegated
to the appropriate usenet newsgroup."
No mention of politics whatsoever.
There are plenty of other activities that are not covered:
A prominent and valuable list member infrequently lists his meanderings
during a typical day. Where he went, which roads, what the speeds were, how
the traffic was, where he charged. No more interesting than my driving day
in my ICE car, except I didn't charge. Almost no EV content. No one says
anything.
A prominent and valuable list member writes and writes and writes, and
that's just part 1. There are a few interesting tidbits scattered in there
but man, this guy *seriously* needs an editor! His manner can be quite
endearing, but sometimes ranges from embarrassingly self-promoting to
downright arrogant. No one says anything.
There are two prominent and valuable list members who are apparently good
friends, but occasionally bicker and snipe at each other like spouses who
should have parted long ago. It's as painful to read here as it would be to
see it in public. No one says anything.
There are many list members who post a two-line response to a very lengthy
post, and copy the *entire* lengthy post, or even the whole darn thread.
Let me tell you, it's hard to follow sometimes when you're looking at the
archive. And everywhere this list is archived needs more storage because of
it. No one says anything.
Please understand that these are *not* complaints. Others could probably
generate very different lists of such activities. I realize people have
different ideas of what is valuable to the list, what is acceptable behavior
and what is not. We are a diverse breed, and that's OK. I value it all to
wildly varying degrees, and others will certainly attach great value to
things that are only of passing interest to me. Different people have
different points of view, and I can learn from all of them.
Then some brief comments of a political nature are posted, and the list
erupts in a firestorm. A very important distinction needs to be made here.
Note that in those comments cited, there was no *discussion* of politics at
all, only some brief comments that did not invite response. Mine, in fact,
specifically discouraged responses. Virtually no bandwidth was devoted to
ideas of a political nature. The only discussion that has ensued (and lots
of it!) has not involved politics directly at all - only whether politics
should be allowed.
I find that frightening. People are objecting to simply seeing in print an
idea that disagrees with their own belief. There are a few people on this
list that I consider really "out there" for a variety of reasons, but I
still consider everything they say. And sometimes learn from it. Why
should I or anyone else get upset or feel threatened by words on a screen?
Many here probably think I'm a raving left-wing pinko ultra-liberal, but you
might be very surprised to hear my views on, for example, abortion or
teaching intelligent design vs. evolution. I come to my views, EV or
otherwise, by considering and challenging *everything*. And considering the
possibility that my current belief might be wrong. Sure, I end up
discarding a lot of ideas, but only with good reason. And occasionally I
find an intriguing new gem.
I never thought that was so remarkable. I guess it is. I humbly suggest to
everyone here that you try each day to challenge a personal belief. (Start
small and work up to your core beliefs.) Then seriously and openly consider
the pros and cons of a belief you currently oppose. Apparently there are
many here who have forgotten how liberating it can be to discard old beliefs
and acquire carefully considered new ones. Scary at first, yes. But worth
it.
As for the "rule" regarding politics (since there seems to be some rule
outside the list charter) I will avoid infractions in the future. I'm more
sorry than you know, for a number of reasons, that people were offended.
> As for the most recent issue, here's the nonpartisan response.
>
> Like every other commercial radio and television program, the Limbaugh
> show's primary purpose is to sell advertising time. It doesn't matter
> whether the politics of a show is left, right, up or down.
> In these sorts
> of programs, announcers' comments may or may not be their own
> opinions, may
> or may not be based in fact. (There's a famous story in the
> radio business
> about the newly hired talk show host who, 5 minutes before his first
> airshift, stuck his head into the program director's office
> to ask: "I
> forget, am I supposed to be pro-gun or anti-gun?")
>
> Accuracy doesn't matter anyway. The programs (and the
> commentary) are
> intended to draw and hold the audience their advertisers want
> to reach.
> Period. Some items may be spot on, others partly accurate;
> probably some
> are pure opinion or even hearsay. These programs should be
> considered
> entertainment, not news.
OK, you've heard it from David, the one person on this list who likely has
more experience in radio than the entire membership combined. Maybe it's
because I grew up in LA in the middle of the entertainment industry, but I
thought this was a no-brainer. Rush Limbaugh should have no more
credibility as a political commentator than Howard Stern. Rush is no more,
no less than a shock-jock. Furthermore, I went to Rush's website and
searched on the words "apology" and "retraction". Lots of hits, but ALL of
them referred to apologies or retractions made, or that "should" have been
made, by others. It would seem this is someone who believes he has never
made a mistake. In fact, it's just an integral part of the on-air persona.
> If it makes you feel better, use the contact information that's been
> posted here to inform the relevant person. But I warn you, not only
> will you be
> wasting your time, you'll end up feeling worse! Broacasters
> no longer are
> required to present opposing viewpoints; the Fairness
> Doctrine was repealed
> years ago. Commercial radio and television program producers
> owe the public
> almost nothing (unless they're stockholders ;-). In fact,
> you're apt to
> find that if any use at all is made of your letter, it will
> be to ridicule
> you. Do you really want that?
No we don't. Since Rush's approach is to attack, there is a very high
likelihood that "correcting" him will backfire. If he gives anything
resembling an apology or any acknowledgement of the effectiveness of EVs,
I'll eat a battery. Be very careful who you try to correct.
> Whatever you do, quit bellyaching about politics. We have what we
> have, whether you agree with it or not. If you like it, support
> it; if you don't,
> work to change it. But when it comes to EVs - just forget
> it. Get out
> there and make something!
Y'see, that's the problem. No one who posted those brief comments was
really bellyaching. Speaking only for myself, I believed I was offering
information of interest. And yes, I did feel better thinking I was helping
bring clarity to an issue that has been anything but clear. I admit I
underestimated the sensitivity of some, but the fact of the matter is that
the real bellyaching came later.
As for the notion that "We have what we have, whether you agree with it or
not," I submit this is a phenomenon much deeper than simply losing an
election as some have suggested. Someone mentioned that this is the first
time in forty years that the political landscape has changed so
dramatically. The change has come at a time when the US doesn't enjoy the
superiority or admiration it once did. (For example, the GDP of the EU
already exceeds that of the US, and it's growing faster - a fact that may
have an important influence on EVs, in case anyone thought I was merely
being political here.) That political change has elicited a very profound
response both inside and outside this country. It directly affects people
on this list. You can say we shouldn't talk about it, but that won't make
it go away.
Back to the matter at hand - it comes down to this. My introduction to EVs
is probably similar to that of many on this list. I was knowledgeable about
cars in general, and I firmly believed that EVs were nothing but an
interesting, though impractical, curiosity. The ONLY REASON I'm on this
list today is that I was open to a new idea, and willing to consider my
existing belief might be wrong. I was not offended that anyone would
suggest I might someday drive an EV to work. Why can't that concept be
applied to fields of interest beyond EVs? It's not a rhetorical question.
I don't want or encourage responses to this on the list, but each of us
should answer it for ourselves.
I have a great deal of gratitude and respect for every person who posts on
this list. No exceptions. Even though I strongly disagree with a few of
the views posted here, political, technical or otherwise. I apologize to
those I have offended. It was not my intent to do so. It saddens me deeply
that I did. Since *way* too much bandwidth has been devoted to this
already, I suggest anyone wishing to respond do so off-list.
Ideas can't hurt us as long as they are carefully considered. Welcoming new
or opposing ideas is a good thing. Ignoring or avoiding ideas is, at its
core, nothing but an expression of fear. It can slow our progress more
effectively than any enemy - whether you're talking about advancing EVs or
the human race.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, Lee suggested this a while ago. Jon's Silver Cheetah
(http://jon.silvercheetah.net/bsuev/24sept.asp) has one like this as well.
I wanted to do this with the MES pump (that's what the black ABS box was
built for), but the MES pump's exhaust port is so small and has very little
plastic to be able to attach an adapter :-{
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Frank Schmitt
Sent: January 17, 2005 12:06 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: New Beetle EV Conversion Update
> * vacuum system installed
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_VacuumSystem.html
This brings to mind...is there any reason you couldn't hide the vacuum pump
*inside* a vacuum reservoir? If you muffled the output and isolated it
mechanically, the vacuum itself should help quiet things down a bit.
-Frank
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Awesome web site, thanks for sharing what you are doing. Too bad all
products aren't documented as well as your conversion!
Questions about your battery placement: How are you going to reach
the lower battery post if the batteries are on end? How are you going
to get wrenches on both sides of the battery post clamps? Are you
going to attach the batteries to the sides of the boxes or the
bottom?
Unsolicited suggestion, perhaps little access doors on the sides or
bottoms of the battery boxes would make reaching the lower battery
post easier.
--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It has been a while since I have updated my web site - I have been
> busy
> working on my EV. So I spent this morning getting it all up to
> date:
>
>
> * rear battery boxes installed with heaters
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryBoxConstruction.html
>
> * vacuum system installed
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_VacuumSystem.html
>
> * PFC charger purchased and installed
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_ChargerPFC30.html
>
> * batteries selected an ordered
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatterySelection.html
>
> * and, FINALLY the adapter plate has been finished (after 4 months
> in the
> machine shop) - and the drive has been installed.
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_AdapterPlate.html
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_EngineMount.html
>
>
> Take a look - all feedback is appreciated!
>
> Don
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was supprized that there wasn't more comments on this ,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fortunat Mueller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> My Jetta had one of the weakest 12 V batteries I have
> ever seen (lawn tractor battery) and would run flat
> any time it was left for more than a few days in the
> winter.
>
> Rather than use an outside battery, my solution was to
> connect a couple leads to the nearest 12 V worth of
> traction batteries and use those to 'jump start' the
> EV. It worked well and all you need is a couple
> lengths of wire. Of course, it means you lose your HV
> isolation for a couple of seconds but i can live with
> that.
>
I have blown up my share of stuff and not even trying to go fast . I think
you where lucky here , for a few reasons . If there is any leakage form
your batteries to the frame , connection one of the batteries in the
traction pack right to the frame by way of negative traction battery now
makes another path to frame , . Say there is a lot of motor dust and its got
a fair path to the negitive of the traction pack, say you hook the negitive
form one of the batteries close to the traction positive end , now you have
two paths to the framd. Also if/when
you connect the positive wire from the traction pack and you have a path
from any of the other traction batteries you could have (by just hooking the
one positive wire and the leakage from one of the ,mucher lower down the
line traction batteries ) the traction pack voltage now appear across all
you 12v stuff , with only the dead 12v axl battery holding it down.
If for some reason I HAD to do this I would use the negitive on the traction
pack to go to the frame , I would hook up the ground first , unplug my e
meter . I would not be happy with my Zilla in there either , . What I would
do it un hook the dead 12v alx battery on both sides ( + and - ) and then
charge him from some of the traction batteries ,
> My other (sparkier) solution when i didn't have wire
> lengths or didn't feel like opening the battery box
> was just to (carefully) lay the blade of an old screw
> driver across contacts of the primary contactor. It
> sparks a bit, but immediately the DC fires up and
> provides enough current to pull in that contactor and
> hold it in. voila...ev is 'running' .
>
This to me sounds like the way to do it .
> the second method provided lots of entertainment for
> my passengers who didn't always understand how I could
> 'jump start' my car with only a screwdriver.
>
> glad to hear you made it home.
>
glad to hear your car is ok , you must have a pretty clean set up , no
leakage
Steve Clunn
> ~Fortunat
>
> --- Michael Hoskinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hey, maybe I had drained my little 12 volt battery
> > by leaving the headlights on. Sure enough, that's
> > what I had done, but
> > it did not recover enough in 30 minutes to pull in
> > the main contactor.
> > The dentist office was in a mall, so I went to Radio
> > Shack and bought a
> > couple of cheap lantern batteries and some jumper
> > wires. I turned the
> > key on, then touched my lantern battery jump starter
> > to the aux battery
> > terminals. I was rewarded with that blessed clunk
> > of the main contactor
> > pulling in, and with it the dc-dc that would quickly
> > restore my little
> > aux battery to life. When I got home I rewarded it
> > with a nice long 1
> > amp top-up. Out at the cottage I have a cheap 12
> > volt flashlight with a
> > small agm. I think I'll wire in a 12 volt plug to
> > it so I can jump
> > start from the cigar lighter.
> >
> > Mike Hoskinson
> > Edmoonton
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> All your favorites on one personal page - Try My Yahoo!
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For all you classic beetle lovers, I am having a problem. I noticed
that I might earlier, and now I know. I tried to put my prestolite MTC
4001 in my 1974 VW. I had to take out the transmission. Because of the
length of the motor, I wasn't able to put in the motor under because of
the transmission mounts. I wasn't able to put it in from the top, as
again the transmission mounts, and the combination of the motor and
transmission are too long. I am thinking that I might need to cut the
back part of the body, to put it in. I am hoping not. I need a
suggestion on how I might be able to work this out. I hope someone has
experience.
Brian
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David, these batteries do not have posts, they have female 1/2" NC bolt
holes. I intend on putting on the cables, then slide them into position.
Yes, it will be a pain to easily access them.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Dymaxion
Sent: January 17, 2005 1:09 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: New Beetle EV Conversion Update
Awesome web site, thanks for sharing what you are doing. Too bad all
products aren't documented as well as your conversion!
Questions about your battery placement: How are you going to reach the lower
battery post if the batteries are on end? How are you going to get wrenches
on both sides of the battery post clamps? Are you going to attach the
batteries to the sides of the boxes or the bottom?
Unsolicited suggestion, perhaps little access doors on the sides or bottoms
of the battery boxes would make reaching the lower battery post easier.
--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It has been a while since I have updated my web site - I have been
> busy working on my EV. So I spent this morning getting it all up to
> date:
>
>
> * rear battery boxes installed with heaters
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatteryBoxConstruction.html
>
> * vacuum system installed
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_VacuumSystem.html
>
> * PFC charger purchased and installed
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_ChargerPFC30.html
>
> * batteries selected an ordered
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_BatterySelection.html
>
> * and, FINALLY the adapter plate has been finished (after 4 months in
> the machine shop) - and the drive has been installed.
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_AdapterPlate.html
> http://www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/EV_EngineMount.html
>
>
> Take a look - all feedback is appreciated!
>
> Don
>
> Victoria, BC, Canada
>
> See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
> www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
=====
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Felix, no need to separate politics from EVs.
Just please don't discuss politics portion on EVDL,
there are other lists for that.
This is all that is being asked for.
Any political blurp
provokes numerous replies and it's snowballing
ending up with appologies. And, as David pointed out,
no one ever changes their opinions at the end anyway.
Victor
Felix Gardner wrote:
Politics and EV can not be separated, no matter how hard anyone tries.
Sort of like a magnet, one end is always the opposite of the other no
matter what, it is just that way. Living in the US, there is no way
to separate politics from anything, not even the simple act of putting
on a shirt.
It is important for one to express his or her idealism, understanding
of perception, and internalization when ever those courses may arise.
This helps us remain in control of our personality. It is also
equally important to digest the results and responses to our
expressions, this is instructional and helps us learn. As a result me
may value each other more, or we may value each other less. Either
way it is a progression, sort of like an electric motor. It won't
turn if there is no conflict and disturbance between the magnet
forces, or if the current doesn't change the fields in the motor.
Personally politics is important to me, very important. I have lost
long time friends because of conflicts of political ideas. Often
times I miss them, but some people change rapidly and some slowly. If
members of the EVDL are more comfortable without the discussion of
politics it is understandable. Yet there is still no way to escape
the politics of our endeavors.
Felix
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Martin Klingensmith wrote:
Hello all,
I'm still working on my ebike. It works but it isn't geared right (too
high)
I'm considering using one of the hubs that have internal gearing. I'm
not sure if they are underdriven or overdriven though. If anyone can
give me any hints that would be great.
Right now I have a v.01 bike with a large 10" sprocket (about 40
teeth) driven by a 12 tooth sprocket on a jack shaft driven by a 6"
which is driven by a 2" pulley on the motor :-)
The wheel size is 24"
It works but it's still geared too high for the current I can pull
with the AC motor drive ( Rod Hower helped me out with getting the AC
drive, thanks! )
So I would like to go for a gear box of sorts. I wanted to stay away
from a friction drive because they are so inefficient.
Thanks.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
Try this,
60 (MPH) = (Engine revs x wheel radius including tyre) / ( final gear
ratio x 168)
Hence 60 mph = ( 3500revs x 12.0) / (A x 168)
A = 42000 / 168
-----------
60
A = 4.16
Thus to make 60 mph @ 3500 revs per minute would require a reduction of
4.16:1
final gear ratio is the product of all gear ratios in use IE: Primary
and secondary reduction from the motor plus the transmission. You could
calculate backwards from there substituting in your known reduction IE
3:1. Why are you reducing the effective output speed of the motor
before the transmission anyway... isn't that just wasting wattage?
Matt G
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe, Sheer Pullen implemented (or was going to) the
power steering in his Accord. Ask him.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/338.html
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
Felix Gardner wrote:
EVDL,
What are some different types of power steering options available, and
what have you used that worked well?
Felix
--- End Message ---
