EV Digest 4034
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Importing an EV?
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Building big EVs, was Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Building big EVs, was Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: to buy or to build...ebike dreams.
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Importing an EV?
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Backdoor Politics
by "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) E-Bike Build
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) transmissions- KISS
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: to buy or to build...ebike dreams.
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: PFC30 Rescues Dead Forklift
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) OT Re: INDUSTRIAL REMOTE CONTROL SYS
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: Fw: EV Charter (Re: Politics v. advocacy was: Re: Backdoor
Politics)
by James D Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Backdoor Politics
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Transmissions (LONG, higher-performance questions)
by "Richard Furniss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: CE news
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Ford Ranger sit in, Kudos! Made Evening news!
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Transmissions (LONG, higher-performance questions)
by Tim Clevenger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: geared bike hubs
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: 400 amp DC circuit breaker on Ebay
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Backdoor Politics...come on guys, knock it off!
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Building big EVs, was Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Importing an EV?
by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
25) Re: Building big EVs, was Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Jan 2005 at 19:05, Dave Davidson wrote:
> Try importing a production EV
> from Europe, such as a Pugeot 101 Electric, or Citreon Saxo Electric or a
> Renault electric pickup (pardon my spelling). Can't be done.
It's certainly difficult, but I'm not so sure about "can't." A member of the
Eastern Electric Vehicle Club in PA quite some years ago imported a Kewet
for his own use. I don't know what the process was, but he was successful.
I'm fairly sure that he had to agree never to sell it. When he decided he was
finished with it, he donated it to a museum.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have a look at this if you haven't already seen it:
http://www.acpropulsion.com/Products/Range_extending_trailers.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Felix Gardner wrote:
How are pusher or generator trailers integrated into the EV? Do they
supply power directly to the motor, directly to the batteries, or are
they connected to the charger? What is the means by which the power
from the generator gets to wheels for a generator trailer?
Generator trailers generally provide high current DC in parallel with the
EVs battery pack. The charger is not part of the circuit. Drive to the
wheels is provided by the existing EV motor and transmission. It is simply
a DC generator on a small trailer . When combined with an EV, a generator
trailer makes the combination a series hybrid, engine to generator,
generator to motor, motor to wheels.
Pusher trailers are usually made from the complete front section of a front
wheel drive car. They include the stock IC engine and the original
transmission. They drive directly through the trailer wheels to the
ground, pushing on the hitch and thus pushing the EV. Some include a small
generator as well to recharge the EVs batteries while pushing. Generally
pushers are only used for highway travel as the throttle systems are not
capable of direct coupling to the EV accelerator pedal, but is instead
controlled by a servo like a cruise control. When combined with an EV the
result is a parallel hybrid, engine to transmission to wheels. While
pushing, the EV drive is inactive.
Overall, the generator trailer solution is more flexible but puts the EV
drive train under more stress, due to the more long term operation than is
generally possible under battery only drive. The pusher trailer is less
flexible but can be much less expensive to build and has the advantage of
letting the EV drive train "take a nap" so to speak while traveling.
Both have their own challenges. With generators the concerns would include
overcharging batteries, subjecting controllers to high voltages, and
overheating the EV motor on extended drives. Pushers require careful
design to insure full control of the remote drive train is retained at all
times, and engine conditions are properly monitored.
As is usual in my case, I have started work on both setups quite some time
ago, and neither one is currently complete. I really need to at least get
the pusher enclosed so I can get it out of my garage.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Felix Gardner wrote:
How are pusher or generator trailers integrated into the EV? Do they
supply power directly to the motor, directly to the batteries, or are
they connected to the charger? What is the means by which the power
from the generator gets to wheels for a generator trailer?
A pusher trailer does just what the name implies, it actually pushes the
vehicle from the rear, here are two examples-
http://www.mrsharkey.com/pusher.htm
http://www.jstraubel.com/EVpusher/EVpusher.htm
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seth Allen wrote:
www.rabbittool.com has been around for ages, and they offer kits and
bikes. If they have been around a while that means they haven't
shortchanged people continually, like some others. Just opinion, and I
never have bought anything, but they are worth a look. NiMH packs up to
"M" cells, with automated chargers.
AFAIK, Rabbit Tool is a great example of vaporware, nothing has changed for
the last five+ years and they have no electric bike products that you can
actually buy.
Has anyone actually touched a Rabbit Tool product?
a.k. howard wrote:
Greetings,
The question here is to buy or to build. I am looking to use an
electric bicycle type of EV for the following.
I have a nine mile one way commute. Its mostly flat or very slight
long grades, with a 3 percent half mile upgrade at one end.
Speed is not real important, I think i will be happy with a maximum
speed of 20 mph.
Range is very important. I want to be able to do nine to ten miles
comfortably on a single charge. I am willing to carry a second
battery pack.
I don't plan to pedal my bike, I'd rather use the electric power
mode at all times.
I do want the ability to climb steep grades, say up to 8 percent
without burning things up, i am willing to accept a reduction in
speed for that.
I plan to use the bike 250 to 300 days a year, pretty much whenever
it is dry and the forecast is to be dry. Most of my one way trips
outside of work are less than ten miles in length.
If I buy, I am most interested in one of the Tidalforce bikes,
probably the IO stepthru model. I have considered an Iacocca folding
ebike as well.
If I build, Im probably looking at installing a hub motor setup on
a mountain bike with road tires.
36 volts is the lowest voltage I would use. I plan to use nimh
batteries, maybe liions in the future. I'm willing to have multiple
battery packs and chargers.
I live in a second story apartment. Hopefully with a little power I
could power the bike slowly up the stairs. That is, to walk it up the
stairs with some power to the wheels. Of course I wouldn't attempt to
ride it upstairs.
I consider my planned use for the bike to be severe service,
multiple stoplights, roads are pretty smooth, and using it day in and
day out. I have no plans to use the bike off road. I hope i can find
something that will hold up over time and give me years of trouble
free service.
I do realize that battery packs and tires will have to be replaced
every so often. I hope that the bike itself, motor, controller, etc
would not fail on me quickly. In short I am looking for something
quite durable.
This will be my first EV.
Hope this helps, and I thank you in advance for your wisdom and
your help. Regards, A.K. Howard, Las Vegas, NV. Board member Las
Vegas Electric Vehicle Association.
The need to go up and down stairs sorta throws a wrench in the works.
Otherwise, I might recommend one of these scooters without pedals to do the
job with no problem-
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/SCOOTERS/scooters.htm
http://www.egovehicles.com/
If you had a Currie mountain bike, you could remove the battery pack and
sling the bike over your shoulder to go up and down stairs like many owners
of conventional bikes do-
http://www.currietech.com/html/currieCatalog/CTI_comfortProd.html
The Currie may not have the climbing ability that you need though.
Powerful but not cheap is the TidalForce bike-
http://www.tidalforce.com/products/io/index.html
A great overview of available ebikes here-
http://www.electric-bikes.com/others.htm
As far as conversion kits go, the Heinzmann hubmotor is an excellent choice.
I believe you can still buy these directly from the North American
distributor-
http://www.heinzmannusa.com/components.html
Light Electric Vehicle Technologies, Inc. (LEVT)
404 S Arthur
Pocatello, ID
83204
888-314-5388
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Company President is Phil Levitt
Another more powerful possibility is the 1500-3000W EVT hubmotor.
I haven't seen one of these adapted to a bicycle yet, but it certainly seems
doable-
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/PARTS/EvtSpecs.htm
I would like to try one of these with the Sevcon MilliPak controller
w/regenerative braking-
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=2116
MilliPak 72 page owner's manual (PDF)-
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/products/ct5115/MillipaK%204QPM%20V1.01.pdf
I can tell you from experience that powering an ebike up and down a
staircase can cause undue wear and tear on the staircase as another poster
has pointed out.
This could be a major landlord issue that you may want to consider.
HTH
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi David, Dave and All,
I use to convert imported 'gray market' cars
from Europe to US standards.
There are to standard you need to pass to
get into the US.
One is the D.O.T. standards that are things
like side door protection, seat belts, Seatbelt
worning light, ect. Not hard to do or costly.
Second is the EPA which means you have to
pass emissions test but as EV's have no emissions it
passes this without even trying!!!
There are companies at many ports that do
this and can give you prices on the import, DOT
conversion. Just get the prices for DOT and
importation. I'd bet the price won't be over $2k plus
shipping.
Many military do this and rich people.
In any import remove the radio and anything
else the ships crews may want to steal as they can do
great damage ripping it out!
If you are going to do it lets us know and
we can do it as a group sharing a container costs, the
best way to ship as there are cheap ni-cad batt packs
there.
HTH's,
jerry dycus
--- "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> On 16 Jan 2005 at 19:05, Dave Davidson wrote:
>
> > Try importing a production EV
> > from Europe, such as a Pugeot 101 Electric, or
> Citreon Saxo Electric or a
> > Renault electric pickup (pardon my spelling).
> Can't be done.
>
> It's certainly difficult, but I'm not so sure about
> "can't." A member of the
> Eastern Electric Vehicle Club in PA quite some years
> ago imported a Kewet
> for his own use. I don't know what the process was,
> but he was successful.
>
> I'm fairly sure that he had to agree never to sell
> it. When he decided he was
> finished with it, he donated it to a museum.
>
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I like how Ken has the "Soapbox" area set up on the Zappy Scooter list
where you can go and let off some steam without worrying about whether you
are ruffling other people's feathers. If two people on the EVDL are engaged
in an OT topic they can take it to the "Soapbox."
However, I still think there is some relevant political information that
should be posted on the EVDL. Not necessarily biased opinions but factual
information such as the State of Maine considering an EV mandate, as an
example. This is newsworthy information we should all know about it.
Case in point is the news of local governments banning electric scooters
along with gas scooters. This affects many of us who build and modify
electric scooters as a hobby. Some of us can't ride legally as a result of
"politics" involved in banning scooters. So we need to know what is going
on.
Also, if some politician, talkshow host or celebrity praises or slams EVs we
should know about it. It is tempting to put a biased spin on the info but if
the info is reported according to the facts I would like to know about it so
I can write a letter to the editor or whatever.
Several of us have had "Letters to the Editor" appear in widely read
magazines and newspapers in praise of EVs as a result of hearing about an
issue posted on the EV List. So its vitally important to know.
The majority of topics on the EVDL is still technical based. The EV movement
is still a grassroots movement that many on this list are keeping alive by
building EVs and through their advocacy efforts. I think a "fair and
balanced" EV list is the way to go.
So I pretty much agree whole heartly with Bill Dube's opinion on the matter.
Chip Gribben
NEDRA Webmaster
http://www.nedra.com
Electric Vehicle Association of Washington DC
http://www.evadc.org
ScooterWerks Scooter Repair
http://www.scooterwerks.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Guys & girls;
I just received a Wilderness Energy Electric Bike conversion kit. (BFP-36)
It contained everything I needed to convert my recumbent bike to electric.
I only spent 5 hours installing the Hub motor front wheel, battery pack,
controller,throttle and routing all the wiring. (It fired right up with no
problem)
I took it for a spin and it cruses at 16 to 17 MPH electric only( I have
the 20" wheel model a 26" wheel would go faster) and easily cruses at 25 MPH
with a little effort on my part. I would recommend this route for anyone
considering an E-bike. The installation is strait forward and anyone with
mechanical skills will find it easy.
I haven't tested the range (I need to dress warmer) I'm told it should do
about 20 miles electric only on flat level pavement.
I chose the brushed motor rather than the BLDC version so I could raise
the voltage to increase performance & I will probably increase the voltage to
48 volts to obtain a little faster cruse speed.
I'll post the bike on the EV album as soon as I get a few pictures.
Pat Sweeney
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Remember this : 2% per mesh on standard gears, 1% on stright cut . This
is minimum on lightly lubricated gears.
Automatics have 6 to 8 meshes per planatery set and usually 1 is in use
during low gear lending to the average 8-14% loss.
They do have one advantage over manuals in the first few min of
operation in that they already have a lightweight lubricant, but EVers
can use redline oil or such.
The worst waster of energy is the "hypoid" gear set, the one used in the
differential, it is a sliding contact for quiteness, but I have heard
can eat up to 25% but that seams ridiculus.
I can say GM automatics,like the 4T60E(circa 1995), used vacum to set
hydraulic pressure during operation, no vacumm means higher pressure and
shifting is violent. and solonoids to shift. There are boxes(even "open
source" ones) to shift these transmissions available, drag racers with
blowers need them. Runs off tach and throttle position. By 2000 GM went
completely to eletronic pressure control, it is a 5 volt PWM signal with
variable duty cycle and drives a solonoid inside the tranny. I have the
4t60E book, the one from the transmission parts house, if you need
anything scanned.
The other place effiency is paramount is when you are racing, race cars
already use lots of the tricks, straight cut gears (noisy but also
eliminates parasitic side loads that damage bearings and flex cases
allowing breakage), racing oils, light flywheels and brakes, bevel gear
rear ends (look like model T, only all alum housing) usually with a
quick change too for optimizing to your "commute", err track.
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.13 - Release Date: 1/16/2005
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I could swear I saw a bike at a Tour de Sol, but I really am not sure.
Seth
On Jan 16, 2005, at 5:48 PM, Roy LeMeur wrote:
Seth Allen wrote:
www.rabbittool.com has been around for ages, and they offer kits and
bikes. If they have been around a while that means they haven't
shortchanged people continually, like some others. Just opinion, and I
never have bought anything, but they are worth a look. NiMH packs up
to
"M" cells, with automated chargers.
AFAIK, Rabbit Tool is a great example of vaporware, nothing has
changed for the last five+ years and they have no electric bike
products that you can actually buy.
Has anyone actually touched a Rabbit Tool product?
a.k. howard wrote:
Greetings,
The question here is to buy or to build. I am looking to use an
electric bicycle type of EV for the following.
I have a nine mile one way commute. Its mostly flat or very slight
long grades, with a 3 percent half mile upgrade at one end.
Speed is not real important, I think i will be happy with a maximum
speed of 20 mph.
Range is very important. I want to be able to do nine to ten miles
comfortably on a single charge. I am willing to carry a second
battery pack.
I don't plan to pedal my bike, I'd rather use the electric power
mode at all times.
I do want the ability to climb steep grades, say up to 8 percent
without burning things up, i am willing to accept a reduction in
speed for that.
I plan to use the bike 250 to 300 days a year, pretty much whenever
it is dry and the forecast is to be dry. Most of my one way trips
outside of work are less than ten miles in length.
If I buy, I am most interested in one of the Tidalforce bikes,
probably the IO stepthru model. I have considered an Iacocca folding
ebike as well.
If I build, Im probably looking at installing a hub motor setup on
a mountain bike with road tires.
36 volts is the lowest voltage I would use. I plan to use nimh
batteries, maybe liions in the future. I'm willing to have multiple
battery packs and chargers.
I live in a second story apartment. Hopefully with a little power I
could power the bike slowly up the stairs. That is, to walk it up the
stairs with some power to the wheels. Of course I wouldn't attempt to
ride it upstairs.
I consider my planned use for the bike to be severe service,
multiple stoplights, roads are pretty smooth, and using it day in and
day out. I have no plans to use the bike off road. I hope i can find
something that will hold up over time and give me years of trouble
free service.
I do realize that battery packs and tires will have to be replaced
every so often. I hope that the bike itself, motor, controller, etc
would not fail on me quickly. In short I am looking for something
quite durable.
This will be my first EV.
Hope this helps, and I thank you in advance for your wisdom and
your help. Regards, A.K. Howard, Las Vegas, NV. Board member Las
Vegas Electric Vehicle Association.
The need to go up and down stairs sorta throws a wrench in the works.
Otherwise, I might recommend one of these scooters without pedals to
do the job with no problem-
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/SCOOTERS/scooters.htm
http://www.egovehicles.com/
If you had a Currie mountain bike, you could remove the battery pack
and sling the bike over your shoulder to go up and down stairs like
many owners of conventional bikes do-
http://www.currietech.com/html/currieCatalog/CTI_comfortProd.html
The Currie may not have the climbing ability that you need though.
Powerful but not cheap is the TidalForce bike-
http://www.tidalforce.com/products/io/index.html
A great overview of available ebikes here-
http://www.electric-bikes.com/others.htm
As far as conversion kits go, the Heinzmann hubmotor is an excellent
choice.
I believe you can still buy these directly from the North American
distributor-
http://www.heinzmannusa.com/components.html
Light Electric Vehicle Technologies, Inc. (LEVT)
404 S Arthur
Pocatello, ID
83204
888-314-5388
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Company President is Phil Levitt
Another more powerful possibility is the 1500-3000W EVT hubmotor.
I haven't seen one of these adapted to a bicycle yet, but it certainly
seems doable-
http://www.electricmotorsport.com/PARTS/EvtSpecs.htm
I would like to try one of these with the Sevcon MilliPak controller
w/regenerative braking-
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=&product_id=2116
MilliPak 72 page owner's manual (PDF)-
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/products/ct5115/
MillipaK%204QPM%20V1.01.pdf
I can tell you from experience that powering an ebike up and down a
staircase can cause undue wear and tear on the staircase as another
poster has pointed out.
This could be a major landlord issue that you may want to consider.
HTH
Roy LeMeur Olympia, WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cool story John, looks like you have uncovered an auxiliary market for
Rudman. Ruggedize the casing, add isolation and raise the price to suit the
market. Even a side line selling adapters. And with you as a salesman, can't
miss. Rich, just don't forget all us little people when you start marketing
the "Rudman Universal forklift service charger" and making the big bucks.
Hmm in fact maybe that would lead to LOWER prices on the EV versions? :-).
David Chapman.
BTW Rich, was at the Junqueyard the other day looking for some product and
resorting Junque and found a teeny tiny baby version of that monster you
picked up here. Son #2 was helping me and asked what this little torpedo
looking deal was that would fit in your hand, I told him it was an aircraft
dynomotor to convert one form of electricity to another. Blank look. Then I
explained that it was a super minature ver of the thing we had out in the
arena on the trailer and the light popped on. Then he asked why an airplane
needed somthing like that and I got into voltage conversion, how things were
done before semiconductors etc. Led to one of the better discussions we have
had in some time.
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
<snipped>
What a great tool to have on my service truck, this little green box! It's
compact and
light weight, it's flexible to where it can run off 120 vac or 240 vac,
it's flexible to
where it can charge pretty much any battery I might run across, and it's
capable of
fairly high DC output levels. Things tend to get beat up in their life
aboard a forklift
service truck though, so it's back onto the clean shelf in my EV shop
where ti can keep
the Zombie properly fed.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Scott, Are you looking for some type of electric actuator? I don't know if
this will help but I do a bit with aircraft salvage and I have quite a few
electro/mechanical actuators in AR and Rebuilt yellow tagged cond and in
sizes ranging from 10-12" long Lear trim tab linears to flutter dampers from
Vertols (Chinook) and Sikorsky Sky Cranes. I also have cable/drum rotary
type trim actuators as well. Biggest problem is I don't have a lot of specs
on them, mostly they have pinout diagrams on the type tag but beyond that
most of the guys that I sell them to know what they are looking for. If you
can give me a better idea of just what you are looking for/doing I will dig
around the Junqueyard for something that will work.
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOTT O'QUINN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 9:48 AM
Subject: INDUSTRIAL REMOTE CONTROL SYS
Has anyone on the list had any experience with remote control equipment ?
we are trying to modify a smell piece of equipment to run remotely with a
CATTRON controller but we can't come up with controller actuator setup to
control the hyd . ANY help would be appreciated .
SCOTT
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Think our government doesn't ban things? Try importing a production EV
>from Europe, such as a Pugeot 101 Electric, or Citreon Saxo Electric or a
>Renault electric pickup (pardon my spelling). Can't be done. The US
>Government bans these vehicles in this country.
They're not banned because they're electric; they're banned because
they're foreign. Try importing an R32 Skyline sedan or an Isuzu diesel
D-Max pickup and see how far you get, then thank the DOT and EPA for their
onerous crash and emission standards.
David Thompson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
Chip Gribben wrote:
> I still think there is some relevant political information that
> should be posted on the EVDL. Not necessarily biased opinions but factual
> information such as the State of Maine considering an EV mandate, as an
> example. This is newsworthy information we should all know about it.
> Also, if some politician, talkshow host or celebrity praises or slams EVs we
> should know about it....if the info is reported according to the facts I
> would like to
> know about it so
> I can write a letter to the editor or whatever.
I, and I think most everyone else, agrees with this. It's the angry hate type
diatribes
that don't belong here. Bringing to light any talk show host's or newspaper's
EV bashing
is a good example of what Chip is talking about. Bringing up Oregon's double
fee
registration on hybrids and EVs as I did a while back, GM's crushing of the
EV1's, Ford's
Th!nk situation, are also in sync with this concept.
It should be obvious, that these are not:
> I'm not so sure he should
> leave Bush alone yet though....prove beyond any doubt that it's perfectly OK
> to be an
> evil, murderous, thieving despot, as long as you play nice and make your vast
> oil
> reserves available to the US.
> Govt consperesy here? Of course they will go off in a
> tirade over the last prez #$%^&! NOBODY here voted for "W"around here in
> CT. Watched "Farenheit 911" again, on DVD . God HELP America.
No one wants to sanitize the EVDL to where it's just dull techno-info, but at
the same
time, no one wants to open his email only to find a seemingly never ending
administration
bashing, social ills commentary, anti war propaganda, hyper enviro cataclysmic
hand
wringing, etc., etc.
The above stated, I was glad to hear about the Limbaugh comments and have taken
action.
See Ya....John Wayland
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--- Begin Message ---
> 4) Has anyone had experience with ditching the torque converter on
> planetary or automatic transmission? >
> --Christopher Robison
> AustinEV
I have done it and I'm not sure I would do it again unless it is a racing
application. What I did was eliminate the torque converter and use a
external pump, the trans needs less than 2 gallon per minute and 90 psi
without a torque converter. I hooked the external pump to the brake light
switch so when I was stopping or stopped the pump was off, it not that hard
to do even with the electronic trans.
What is your application, do you want range, racing, street or strip. My
vote would be unless your racing stick to a manual trans, but if you do go
automatic were here to help.
Richard Furniss
http://lasvegasev.com
Las Vegas, NV
President, www.lveva.org
Las Vegas Electric Vehicle Association
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--- Begin Message ---
Sunday 5pm a beautiful 75 degree blue sky day.Well it was the 1st points race
of the year,about 25 showed up for the super pro class(its for dragsters
altereds and super class cars)and the current eliminator showed early promise!
In
the 3rd round of qualifying they have a closet to your dial wins a large
jackpot well after seeing my time slip I was sure it was me.We dialed the car
at
11.85 and ran 11.851 who could beat that a 20yr old he ran 9.37 on a 9.37
dial.We went on to red lite in the 1st rd by.003.I should say I screwed up not
the
car.I like to give myself a TREAT run at he end of the day so for that last
FUN run I turned the amps up close to 2000 and 450 motor volt limit.The valet
mode on the zilla had already been set at 2000 amps but very low voltage.I use
the valet mode for burnouts,the low voltage setting keeps the tire speed down
allowing a complete schuffed and warm tire face,with the old zilla I could only
use 1 programed setting,so in the burnout process the tire would grow in
about .1sec so only the 3-4 inch center of the tire would have a nicely scuffud
contact patch.Of course you cannot hook up a hi power run without a proper tire
surface.Well back to the fun run The burnout was great after I do a burn out I
switch out of the valet mode and reset my brushes to a more neutral position
for more torque off the line I did not do either so it was just a 10.60 run
she fell on her face 400ft to 900ft no motor voltage it was still on lo voltage
valet mode so I flipped the switch but way to late to make a difference.But
still what a kick in the pants for the 1st 200ft Dennis
Berube
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--- Begin Message ---
I don't know if anyone else saw it but the guys and gals doing that Ford
Ranger EV sit in made the 5PM FOX 10 news! And while I didn't catch it all
the gal in the Lazy-Boy was very facile and made a very credable
presentation of the salient facts. Didn't seem wacko or conspirational, just
someone with a concern making a stand (sit?). Mega Kudos! Although I am sure
Ford will spindoctor this I for one was impressed. Hope the EV movement can
capitolize on this "press".
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
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--- Begin Message ---
A lot of autos today are electronically controlled. For example, the
Chrysler A604 is controlled by a transmission module, which controls
a solenoid pack to select gears and engage the torque converter lockup.
People have hacked controls for these so that you can select gears and
lock up the converter, bypassing the stock transmission control module.
Tim
-------
> Subject: Re: Transmissions (LONG, higher-performance questions)
> From: Christopher Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 14:27:55 -0600
>
<snip>
> 1) Perhaps an ordinary automatic transmission could be modified to
> actuate its brake bands under manual control, thus acting as a
> moderate-performance clutchless transmission. Has anyone done this?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why not just change one of the pulley's. They are easy to come by in just
about any size and should be cheap.
From: Martin Klingensmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: geared bike hubs
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 15:42:11 -0500
Hello all,
I'm still working on my ebike. It works but it isn't geared right (too
high)
I'm considering using one of the hubs that have internal gearing. I'm not
sure if they are underdriven or overdriven though. If anyone can give me
any hints that would be great.
Right now I have a v.01 bike with a large 10" sprocket (about 40 teeth)
driven by a 12 tooth sprocket on a jack shaft driven by a 6" which is
driven by a 2" pulley on the motor :-)
The wheel size is 24"
It works but it's still geared too high for the current I can pull with the
AC motor drive ( Rod Hower helped me out with getting the AC drive, thanks!
)
So I would like to go for a gear box of sorts. I wanted to stay away from a
friction drive because they are so inefficient.
Thanks.
--
Martin K
http://wwia.org/sgroup/biofuel/
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--- Begin Message ---
Phil wrote:
>I bought it for my Echo, but decided to go breaker-less. I'l have two
>contactors ( one at each end of the controller) and, in a real emergency (
>if the controller AND both contactors fail) , there's always the clutch.
Please tell me you have a fuse of two in the main pack! There are failure
modes other than a run-away EV. A pack short in two places to the frame
won't let you go anywhere, but could easily cause a fire.
Neon
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--- Begin Message ---
>I'm sorry, but I thought this list was more technical
>in nature and was supposed to stay away from the
>ideological viewpoints. I could care less about WHY
>people own or love EV's on this list. I DO care about
>the technical issues and breakthroughs that are
>made.
>
>In a nutshell, I agree with Wayland and respectfully
>disagree with Bill Dube.
I didn't know that Bill and John really said anything different (though Bill
seemed to think so.) Look again at what John said was a good *on topic* post
about this current EV list spat.
Personally, I tend to delete all the "breakthrough" stuff. What I can do or
get (at mere mortal prices) is what I am here for. The latest battery in
development is likely to get *my* DEL key. I like the help, tech, good
stories about EVs, and information to promote EVs.
Neon
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Felix wrote:
>I found the dimensions of the Tundra on the Toyota website. Now I
>know the difference between Curb weight and GVWR, but GAWR is not
>clear to me. The curb weight of the Tundra is 4600.
That is almost funny. So your large Toyota Pickup can carry 1430lbs. My baby
Toyota Tacoma can carry almost one ton (curb weight was 27xxlbs and max
weight is 4700lbs.) Would you consider using a Tacoma, it would increase
your weight headroom? Then you could build, and sell the Tundra to recoup
the cost (most EVs take to long too build to convert your daily driver
anyway.)
Neon
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--- Begin Message ---
Jerry,
The "gotcha" now is that the vehicle to be imported has to be substantially
similar to a vehicle the manufacturer imports to the US. The DOT maintains
a list of vehicles which they have deemed capable of being modified to meet
US standards. Obviously, since these vehicles have not been imported into
the US in any fashion (ie., no ICE versions were imported either), they are
not on the list.
Guidelines are at http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/import/
And guess who determines which models are capable of being modified to meet
US standards? The automakers, of course. They have used the US Government
to effectively prevent any competition from being imported, and to make it
costly enough to import their own products sold in other countries that most
people will give up and buy the US model in the US. Models with no
corresponding US version cannot be imported.
This is why a few companies considering importing BEVs are doing so as NEVs,
even though they are highway capable in their home country. It gets around
these restrictions.
I understand the French BEVs can be had pretty cheap (from Phillipe's posts
- he can clarify). If you or someone on the list can figure out how to
legally import these, a group buy and shipment should be the easiest part.
Collectors have been able to exempt cars over 25 years old from these
requirements. Perhaps someone with political influence can get the DOT to
consider also exempting cars powered solely by batteries and meeting
European or Japanese safety standards.
Dave Davidson
From: jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Importing an EV?
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 15:29:57 -0800 (PST)
Hi David, Dave and All,
I use to convert imported 'gray market' cars
from Europe to US standards.
There are to standard you need to pass to
get into the US.
One is the D.O.T. standards that are things
like side door protection, seat belts, Seatbelt
worning light, ect. Not hard to do or costly.
Second is the EPA which means you have to
pass emissions test but as EV's have no emissions it
passes this without even trying!!!
There are companies at many ports that do
this and can give you prices on the import, DOT
conversion. Just get the prices for DOT and
importation. I'd bet the price won't be over $2k plus
shipping.
Many military do this and rich people.
In any import remove the radio and anything
else the ships crews may want to steal as they can do
great damage ripping it out!
If you are going to do it lets us know and
we can do it as a group sharing a container costs, the
best way to ship as there are cheap ni-cad batt packs
there.
HTH's,
jerry dycus
--- "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> On 16 Jan 2005 at 19:05, Dave Davidson wrote:
>
> > Try importing a production EV
> > from Europe, such as a Pugeot 101 Electric, or
> Citreon Saxo Electric or a
> > Renault electric pickup (pardon my spelling).
> Can't be done.
>
> It's certainly difficult, but I'm not so sure about
> "can't." A member of the
> Eastern Electric Vehicle Club in PA quite some years
> ago imported a Kewet
> for his own use. I don't know what the process was,
> but he was successful.
>
> I'm fairly sure that he had to agree never to sell
> it. When he decided he was
> finished with it, he donated it to a museum.
>
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
http://my.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Have a look at this if you haven't already seen it:
>
> http://www.acpropulsion.com/Products/Range_extending_trailers.htm
If the Tzero was a straight ICE vehicle with a constant top speed of 75mph on
high-octane, you'd want *at least* the 35mpg the trailer would give you!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When I purchase by first EV in 1976, the Electric Fuel Propulsion Company,
base in Troy, Michigan, had a optional pusher trailer as you are calling it.
Another option unit was a outboard EV charging station that is as large as a
gasoline fuel station.
The generator trailer was a very streamline 2 wheel unit that was actually a
37.5 KW 3 phase alternator at 250 volts Delta. It used a 3 phase bridge
that when you input 250 volts ac, has a output of 280 volts DC. It was fuse
at 400 amps with a Bussman Limitron 200,000 Amp Surge rating buss bar fuses.
There was a large reactor surge coil rated at about 1 Henry in the DC output
line plus a rectifier filter circuit.
This unit was plug in to a very large 200 amp power outlet, which was the
same type made for aircraft starting by the Anderson Power Company.
This plug is normally a 8 pin type, 4 power pins and 4 control pins. The 4
power pins were double up, so the connector and plug would have about 400
amp rating.
On the AC input side, there is a Size 4 magnetic contactor which is control
by two of the control pins plus starting up control. This unit could also
be used as a standby power for your home or welding supply power.
On board the EV, there is two 2 pole DC transfer switches, that can select
either the onboard batteries for running the EV or selects the outboard DC
source. Also while the outboard DC source is running the EV, it also can be
used for charging the batteries.
Remember, you cannot charge the batteries at the same time you are using
them, you cannot make electricity run both ways at the same time, but can do
so in sequence. It's like your 12 volt system in a ICE, the battery is used
only on running a electric motor to start the ICE, and than the 12 volt
alternator provides all accessories power and charges the battery which is
not used at that time.
Also you have two more contactors to isolated the motor controllers from a
onboard charger, plus a controller contactor and a double 2 pole contactor
for REGEN braking, which also has to switch off the output power while in
REGEN braking mode.
This makes for 11 contactors with accessory micro switches at a cost of
$6600.00. The Generator trailer at that time cost $10,000.00. The outboard
charging station cost $5,000.00. The large aircraft starting connector and
plug with molded on 2 inch diameter cable cost over $3000.00.
At a test drive down the interstate, the EV would go 92 mph power by the
outboard generator with about total combine weight of 9000 lbs for a 500
mile range on 20 gallons of gas.
They only used it for transporting EV's at a longer distance. Some people
bought these units which were contractors that provide power for there work
sites, but it was not cost effected for me at the time.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Felix Gardner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Building big EVs, was Re: EV Pusher Trailers?
> > A pusher is a much more practical alternative. They are cheaper
> > to
> > construct, pollute only modestly, and get better fuel economy. If you
> > rig
> > it all up to have your regen electric drivetrain work in concert with
> > the
> > pusher, you can likely approach the pollution and mileage numbers of a
> > factory-built hybrid.
>
> How are pusher or generator trailers integrated into the EV? Do they
> supply power directly to the motor, directly to the batteries, or are
> they connected to the charger? What is the means by which the power
> from the generator gets to wheels for a generator trailer?
>
>
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