EV Digest 4075
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Bob Salem's Hot VW Pickup
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: More military NiCads up for auction
by "David Roden " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions (tach)
by "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Turnabout trailor
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Charging cord ejection
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Madman's 100mph no BS club
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Good flooded battery dealer in DFW/Austin, TX area?
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Turnabout trailer
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Turnabout trailer
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Turnabout trailer
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Turnabout trailer
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Electric camping trailer with generator, Re: Turnabout trailer
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Liquid Tin
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: (no subject)
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
22) Re: Liquid Tin
by Andrew Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
by "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Liquid Tin
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
28) Re: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) RE: WarP 11 and 13 questions
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar,
Which tach are you talking about, stock in ICE cars or dyno stand?
My tach in Honda works perfectly with 12V pulses supplied,
and so does Sheer's. In fact if normal automotive tachs
would require 60V or so (which with 12V systems makes no sense),
you'd think Siemens would make such output available to drive
stock tachometers in cars?
Victor
Otmar wrote:
At 7:55 PM -0800 2-3-05, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Mark Farver wrote:
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
Yes.. but the signal is low current. The LV dyno probe is an
inductive pickup designed to key into the fairly large 12v current
spikes leading into the ignition module. We tried the Siemens tach
signal and with just the factory tach attached the current pulses
were not high enough to trigger the sensor.
Are you sure you wired it correctly? It's open drain output, did you use
a pull up resistor to the +12V rail?
Still, this is a "signal" signal, not a driver to do some work on any
load. So reasonable load like tachometer it can drive, few hundred mA.
Victor,
Many tachometers require 60V to trigger. For that your pull-up resistor
will not work at all. You'll need a circuit like the one I built using
the circuit supplied by Stan Witherspoon on the EVtech list.
Here is the circuit:
Here is what actually worked:
+ 12 -+----+
| |
> |
~ 73 Ohm (3x 220 ohm > |
1 W in parallel) > |
| |
White | | Green
R S )||( RS
+12 )||( 273-1380
isolated | 8 ohm )||( 1k ohm
+12V > )||(
| 10K > Red | | Blue
> > | +-----------> to tach
15K > | c |/
> +----+-------| TIP29
| | e |\
__|_ |/ |
\ / | 4N37 |
_\/_ |\ Gnd
Square wave | |
From V/F----+ Gnd
Otmar and anyone else, feel free to use this circuit or any
modifications.
And then there was Waylands Datsun tach which seemed to require a 2 amp
pulse to trigger, yet another circuit I built. (If anyone need this let
me know, I can find a diagram)
hth,
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Andre' Blanchard [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> As far as the tires growing. When the car is chained to a
> dyno, do the tires grow at the same rate as they would on
> the same car at the track?
An excellent question! I would guess that they would not, but don't
know how significant the difference might be.
> You are arguing both sides here Roger. In another message
> you said. "The big unknown is the HP and torque values, once
> this info is available it is a trivial exercise to translate
> the HP and torque curves at the rear wheels back to those at
> the motor."
Yes, I suppose I am. ;^>
But, the contexts of the messages were different. You were suggesting
that any racer serious enough to put their car on a dyno would know what
their drivetrain ratio is, and I provided examples of the unknowns that
remain to make this statement false. I would even go one further and
suggest that serious racers don't (just) put their car on a chassis
dyno, they dyno the motor on its own.
EVers who want motor info badly enough can certainly do the same; many
major centers will have electric motor rebuild shops with the facilities
to dyno motors *much* larger than the puny things we use (e.g. into the
1000s of HP).
In my reply to Neon, I am pointing out that if you have a manual tranny
(i.e. no torque convertor slip to account for), then once you have the
rear wheel HP and torque, it is a simple matter to translate these
values back to the motor shaft. All that is required is somewhat
accurate knowledge of at least one engine RPM-to-road speed
correspondance in each gear of interest. Since this will be based on an
actual observation of a tach and speedo, it will account for any tire
growth at that speed.
No argument that if you can provide a clean motor RPM to the dyno
software in the first place you make things easier, and probably a bit
more accurate; all I'm saying is that you ought to be able to get the
rear wheel values without the engine RPM signal, and that once you have
that info you can always translate it to motor shaft values later.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Alright......
> I have just had the racing glove slapped across my
> Face....And it HURT! We will just have to see Who owns the
> Front drive single motor Fame... It's a long season...... and
> I have the parts.... A couple of spare motors, a spare
> tranny... A Zilla2K and 20 Orbitals...and more if I want 'em.
WooHoo! Now *this* is going to make for an interesting year! ;^>
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 4 Feb 2005 at 5:19, Dave Cover wrote:
> Does the Saft watering system work with Marathon cells?
Saft's system is sold as part of the Saft modules or cells. You might be able
to buy the caps as replacement parts. (Whether they'd be any cheaper than,
say, Watermaster, I don't know.) If the Saft caps fit the Marathon cells, they
might work, but I wonder whether they'd maintain the correct electrolyte level
in a "foreign" cell.
Hmm, with nicads, unlike with lead batteries, you don't really pay any penalty
in cycle life for not charging them fully. So I suppose if range isn't an
issue,
you might be able to hold them below the gassing voltage on at least some
cycles, or at least reduce the time they spend in the gassing stage. This
would reduce the need to water. But you would still have to take them above
the gassing voltage at least periodically to keep them equalized.
> What about the Nickel Iron Cobalt batteries, do they need watering?
Nickel Iron batteries are notorious for having a voracious water appetite. I
believe I've read that they even gas during DISCHARGE, though I don't know
how that's possible.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looking at the instructions for these aftermarket tach's; I
don't see any special requirements for hooking them up..
http://hp.autometer.com/instruction_download/tachometers.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ah, so a diesel has a stock tach generator of some sort that interfaces with
the Dyno? Is it just a magnetic pick up (Hall effect)? Could something like
that be engineered for an EV?
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of elimination"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
How do they check diesels?
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of
elimination"
----- Original Message -----
They had a interface that plugged into the factory wireing harness.
Slick!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone thought of building an EV pusher trailer? Use it just like the ICE
pusher trailer, only with your ICE vehicle.
Just a thought.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of elimination"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The matter of auto-ejecting the charging cord to prevent drive-offs was
discussed awhile back. Turns out there is a ready-made solution.
I was walking by an ambulance parked at my restaurant today when I noted
an outlet cover with an "Auto Eject" label underneath. Intrigued, I
whipped out my handy dandy digitcam and took a couple of pictures. Then I
looked up the product on the net.
The product is the Kussmaul Auto Eject receptacle and is designed for
emergency vehicles. Here is the web page:
http://www.kussmaul.com/ejector.htm
here's a photo of the connector:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/files/car/Auto_eject_power_cord_ejector.jpg
The plastic peg in the center of the connector is the ejector. It is
actuated when power is applied to the device's solenoid. I didn't mess
around much with the ambulance but it appears that the plunger is
spring-loaded. It is cocked when the cord is inserted and released by the
solenoid.
This looks like a turn-key solution to the problem. No idea of the cost.
This also looks like something someone who is handy with tools could add
to a conventional outlet using a powerful solenoid.
John
---
John De Armond
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It does have to be powered by
onboard electric power.
Roderick Wilde
NEDRA President
Guess that excludes electric busses & bumper cars. So no 1/4 mile extension
cords? I have been an advocate of the Electric Super Highway. I wonder how
much faster Electric dragsters would be if they didn't have to carry all
that lead down the track? How to implement it in the real world? Lawrence
Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 8:23 AM
Subject: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
This post by Rich may tend to confuse some folks. The Roger Hedlund 100
mph Club is for any electric vehicle that breaks 100 mph in the quarter
mile. It does not have to be licensed, it doesn't even have to be a car.
It can be a dragster, a motorcycle, or a concept vehicle. It does have to
be powered by onboard electric power.
Roderick Wilde
NEDRA President
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: WarP 11 and 13 questions
Speaking of the 100 Mph club.
It's a new year... the Slate is clean for 2005.
So... all us fast Boys need to get out and do it again.
The rules are Real time slips. 1/4 mile runs.
Street legal, Tags, and insurance required.
This is simply a NO BS club.
And for the record I am NOT a memeber. As I recall for 2004 and 4 only
one
is John "Plasma Boy" Wayland
Am I wrong???.
Bikes are welcome...Same rules.
Otmar should have made it, and so should have Gone Postal.
didn't happen.
Time to try again.
On the Warp 11 and 13s. I have heard the 11 is s Kostov up grade...OK but
not the best for drag racing, and the 13 is rather expensive, and has a
4000
RPM redline. Both are buildt to order. Read not in stock.
This makes the Dual motor Advanced 8s and 9s setups a LOT more favorable.
I really like John's Warp 8s they really do the job. But he needs to get
going on his monster motor.
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich Rudman wrote:
It's a long season...... and I have the parts....
A couple of spare motors, a spare tranny...
A Zilla2K and 20 Orbitals...and more if I want 'em.
Goldie needs some more trophies, before I turn her into razor blades.
Rich talks a lot of smack when it comes to how to go fast on the strip,
but I haven't EVER seen him actually do anything even competitive in
Goldie in the 3 or 4 NEDRA Nationals I've attended. 100mph? Not even
remotely close so far, from what I have seen.
Rich made a GREAT smoke show up at REV! last year, though and there is
photographic proof of that feat up at my site. He is certainly VERY
qualified to talk about how to blow smoke effectively.
All these volumes of posts about how to go faster though.... I think you
need some more slips before your credibility factor reaches your current
bragging/advice level Madman...
In other words.... >Take it to the track< and when YOU have entered
your own no BS club, you can tell the rest of us how you did it. Without
the slips, your advice on how to break 100mph has a very BS ring to it.
(Rich is a friend and he knows this wasn't posted with malice. Just a
friendly, good natured ribbing.)
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX - 801-749-7807
message - 866-872-8901
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just received the used S-15 EV pickup I purchased a few weeks ago and was
hoping someone on the list would know a good dealer in the area. I looked
online and found a few but would rather find one by referral.
I'm looking for 20-24 6VGC batteries preferably someone who would cast L-Posts
on them. Probably a single orbital to serve dual duty as the 12V and the live
model for my Vortex EV project. I was all setup when I was in Connecticut but
where I am in texas is a whole different place.
It came with 8VGC at 144 volts.. but 3 are disconnected because it was tripping
the guys breaker so it's all at 120 now. I'm either going to go 144 or 120
volts with 6VGC.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Mark Hastings
S-15 EV Pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Otmar,
Which tach are you talking about, stock in ICE cars or dyno stand?
My tach in Honda works perfectly with 12V pulses supplied,
and so does Sheer's. In fact if normal automotive tachs
would require 60V or so (which with 12V systems makes no sense),
you'd think Siemens would make such output available to drive
stock tachometers in cars?
Victor
Hi Victor,
I'm talking about stock ICE ones, but it may also apply to the dynos.
I wonder about your logic process. You think that since your sample
of a few cars from one auto manufacturer works on a 12V pulse, they
all must?
Also it may be good to remember that just because it makes no sense
to you, does not mean it makes no sense. It makes plenty of sense to
me.
I don't know all of the tachs that need the high pulse, but they are
out there. They get the pulse from the primary side of the ignition
coil. Some tachs actually only need that one wire connection since
they get power from the spike as well.
I'm well aware that some (maybe all) Hondas work with a 12V pulse
since I put a tach on the CRX I converted back in `91 when it was
new. I also find that most aftermarket tachs are ok with a 12V pulse.
A few that I know do not work on a 12V pulse are these:
Some early model Porsches, Possibly all VW Vanagons, and a number of
old Datsuns.
Hope this clears things up for you.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:18 AM -0500 2-4-05, Robert Salem wrote:
Otmar,
I'm curious, what settings did you have on the Z2K when you pulled
that 170 hp number?
How is your memory ?
Not very good a I'm afraid. I vaguely remember that it was at factory
settings (turned all the way up) but I could very likely be wrong.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Has anyone thought of building an EV pusher trailer? Use it just
like the ICE pusher trailer, only with your ICE vehicle.
Just a thought.
David C. Wilker Jr.
Bob Schneeveis built one some years ago.
120V of Saft ni-cads, two 8" motors, a Zilla, all strapped on the
back of a Gas X19 on a short trailer. It was short coupled with a
hitch on each side of the rear bumper. It always was in line with the
front car.
It was fast and when you punched the electric it lifted up the back
of the Fiat a several inches. An odd feeling!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have thought that there could be a good case to make for an electric
pusher trailer, considering the increasing possibility of fuel shortages
(due to declining production soon, ever-increasing demand and the
possibility of sudden events like accidents, storms and terrorist atacks) .
There are thousands of different makes and models of gas/Diesel cars on the
road in quantities of millions. It would be hard to quickly convert to
electric a large quantity of these many different models. But just a few
models of electric pusher trailers could power most of the existing fleet,
and could be mass produced. This solution doesn't require expensive and
hard to reverse modifications to someone's new or fairly new car, which most
people would be reluctant to do. If a crisis passes and fuel becomes more
available at a reasonable cost later, and the owner so chooses, the pusher
trailer could be quickly detached for a while, or for long highway trips.
This would be a good selling point.
Thinking about it and doing it are 2 different things, of course. I am now
well enough equipped, having 2 EVs with compact generators and a 2005 Prius,
that there is not much motivation to do this soon - there are too many EV
improvements planned for me to work on and parts already bought to do them!
However, I consider that this might be a good EV business for the coming
high cost fuel era. I may want to look at this seriously in a year or two,
if there aren't any insurmountable obstacles found such as provincial
(state) regulations, problems with insurance etc. Or those problems might
exist now, but they could be removed more easily if providing a solution to
a crisis that exists later.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
>Has anyone thought of building an EV pusher trailer? Use it just like the
>ICE pusher trailer, only with your ICE vehicle.
Just a thought.
David C. Wilker Jr.
Bob Schneeveis built one some years ago.
120V of Saft ni-cads, two 8" motors, a Zilla, all strapped on the back of
a Gas X19 on a short trailer. It was short coupled with a hitch on each
side of the rear bumper. It always was in line with the front car.
It was fast and when you punched the electric it lifted up the back of the
Fiat a several inches. An odd feeling!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Some very good points, Doug. Thank you. I think it could be a great way to
get started in the EV world for novices, like me. With a little
engine-erring, the trailer would have enough usable room for cargo too. But
the simplicity of a straight trailer frame and basic drive train make it
very feasible, at least to me.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of elimination"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
I have thought that there could be a good case to make for an electric
pusher trailer, considering the increasing possibility of fuel shortages
(due to declining production soon, ever-increasing demand and the
possibility of sudden events like accidents, storms and terrorist atacks) .
There are thousands of different makes and models of gas/Diesel cars on the
road in quantities of millions. It would be hard to quickly convert to
electric a large quantity of these many different models. But just a few
models of electric pusher trailers could power most of the existing fleet,
and could be mass produced. This solution doesn't require expensive and
hard to reverse modifications to someone's new or fairly new car, which
most people would be reluctant to do. If a crisis passes and fuel becomes
more available at a reasonable cost later, and the owner so chooses, the
pusher trailer could be quickly detached for a while, or for long highway
trips. This would be a good selling point.
Thinking about it and doing it are 2 different things, of course. I am
now well enough equipped, having 2 EVs with compact generators and a 2005
Prius, that there is not much motivation to do this soon - there are too
many EV improvements planned for me to work on and parts already bought to
do them!
However, I consider that this might be a good EV business for the coming
high cost fuel era. I may want to look at this seriously in a year or
two, if there aren't any insurmountable obstacles found such as provincial
(state) regulations, problems with insurance etc. Or those problems might
exist now, but they could be removed more easily if providing a solution
to a crisis that exists later.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Otmar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
>Has anyone thought of building an EV pusher trailer? Use it just like
>the ICE pusher trailer, only with your ICE vehicle.
Just a thought.
David C. Wilker Jr.
Bob Schneeveis built one some years ago.
120V of Saft ni-cads, two 8" motors, a Zilla, all strapped on the back of
a Gas X19 on a short trailer. It was short coupled with a hitch on each
side of the rear bumper. It always was in line with the front car.
It was fast and when you punched the electric it lifted up the back of
the Fiat a several inches. An odd feeling!
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There are of course, some challenges or drawbacks, depending on the car
model and its power equipment. Some are like the problems when trailering a
dingy behind an RV: how to lubricate the transmission. Only certain models
are suitable for this without running the engine, at least periodically.
Others relate to the fact that you are in the car and driving it, so you
want accessories like power steering and power brakes to work, if the
vehicle has them. (And most sold in North America do have these
conveniences, these days). Some of these have fairly easy solutions, like
add an EV style vacuum pump for the power brakes. Leaving the engine idling
or operating as a hybrid to reduce, but not eliminate, fuel consumption, are
other not-ideal answers. Certain models could be best for this, like
those with electric power steering and manual transmission, but the
computers/control modules may not co-operate, for example, with the engine
not running. Whoever was going to do this type of add-on work as a business
would have to get familiar with many vehicle models and what they require.
(It would be somewhat like the compressed natural gas conversions offered
here in the mid eighties - some conversion shops could not handle the newer
vehicles with computers, so I took my '82 Toyota pickup to one further away
that had it figured out.)
If you are considering doing an electric pusher trailer for yourself, you
just have to look at your vehicle(s) that it would push, and evaluate if
this project appears feasible for what you have.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
Some very good points, Doug. Thank you. I think it could be a great way to
get started in the EV world for novices, like me. With a little
engine-erring, the trailer would have enough usable room for cargo too.
But the simplicity of a straight trailer frame and basic drive train make
it very feasible, at least to me.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of
elimination"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On a theme related to an electric pusher with cargo space: I have thought
about making an electric pusher camping (tent) trailer, all in aluminum
including frame, for my Skoda 5 door hatchback EV. The hatchbach wouldn't
have the power to pull a trailer satisfactorily on its own, but with a
powered trailer that can at least pull its own weight and provide
regenerative braking, it should work OK. Going further, I could put the
140 lb 14kw generator on this trailer, and little or no weight in batteries
, for long distance hybrid driving/camping. I would use the generator only
as much as needed to get to the next campground with a reasonable DOD, and
then plug-in.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
Some very good points, Doug. Thank you. I think it could be a great way to
get started in the EV world for novices, like me. With a little
engine-erring, the trailer would have enough usable room for cargo too.
But the simplicity of a straight trailer frame and basic drive train make
it very feasible, at least to me.
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I'm figuring out what's good for me, but only by a process of
elimination"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: Turnabout trailer
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I got a half liter of Liquid Tin made by M.G Chemicals. Anyone have
experience with this product? I'll be using it to tin my buss bars on the
Electravan and other projects as they come up. This will keep corosion down.
Says it works in 5 minutes.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
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Otmar,
I still maintain that having everything else in cars working with
12V it makes little sense to exclude just a tachometer, but I suppose
manufacturers have thir reasons.
I'm also well aware that some cars like early Porshes and VWs you
mention may not work with 12V tachs, but they are certainly in
great minority. Now, stock ignition coils most likely have larger
than 12V primary spike, perhaps up to 60V mentioned, but
deliberately limiting a dyno stand *not* to accept anything lower
really makes no sense because exclude *everything* not having
ignition coils, for instance diesels. Such dynos would loose
these customers then.
Otmar wrote:
I wonder about your logic process.
I just explained my thinking above. If I were to manufacture
dynos, I'd make it accept as wide range of inputs as possible
to have widest customers nase. Certainly 12V should be no problem.
You think that since your sample of a
few cars from one auto manufacturer works on a 12V pulse, they all must?
No, of course they don't have to. But if some do and some don't,
wouldn't it make sense to YOU to have dynos just accepting both types?
BTW, your sample size isn't much larger than mine...
Also it may be good to remember that just because it makes no sense to
you, does not mean it makes no sense. It makes plenty of sense to me.
Absolutely agree. By the same *your* logic then, if it makes plenty of
sense to you, it does not mean it makes sense. (With all respect to you).
Hope this clears things up for you.
Thanks, I don't remember asking to clear things for me,
they were clear to begin with. No need to be sarcastic, really.
Let's stop here, OK?
Victor
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Are these the same Hawkres everyone likes to much? $39.95, 51AH, 52lbs.
http://www.industrialliquidators.com/wesell/batteries.html
Dave Cover
I have a few of those SBS 60's that I bought from B.G. micro last year.
I intend them for my motorcycle. They have a 10 hr capacity of 50.8ah and
their actual weight is around 40lbs. I think they have probably been floated
their
entire lives then removed from service. Decent cheap test batteries. Here are
some test specs. Mind you these probably have never had a hard day in their
lives. Starting voltage 12.84 (100%) drops to 11v @ C3, 10.6v@ 300A, 10.2v@
400A. Might do better with excercize but when I get serious I'll probably
get something else. (if I must commit battricide let my lesson be cheap) Also
be wary of UPS delivery, mine looked like they were rolled to my door. One
needed replacement, their terminals are not too tough.
Rick M
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On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 19:50:14 -0800, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I got a half liter of Liquid Tin made by M.G Chemicals. Anyone have
> experience with this product? I'll be using it to tin my buss bars on the
> Electravan and other projects as they come up. This will keep corosion down.
> Says it works in 5 minutes.
I've used it to plate circuit boards. It does work very fast when
it's fresh, although the smell is a bit disturbing. You're going to
want to make sure the metal is very clean before you do it, even
fingerprints show up well. But if the metal is clean, it works great.
I guess the other concern would be that the plating is very thin and
could scratch off easily...I don't know if that would be a problem or
not.
Andrew
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Dave wrote:
Ah, so a diesel has a stock tach generator of some sort that interfaces
with the Dyno? Is it just a magnetic pick up (Hall effect)? Could
something like that be engineered for an EV?
Newer dynos (especially ones designed for emissions work) have a
interface for the vehicle's OBDII diagnostics port. All passenger
vehicles built after 96 are required to have this diagnostics capability
per EPA mandate. Engine RPM is a standard parameter available (required
I think).
The OBDII protocol and bus interfaces are standardized. The EPA/SAE
spec mandated the data protocol and connector... but didn't specify the
electrical interface. So there are three non-compatible electrical
interfaces and each manufacturer has a slighty different implementation.
Its amazing the generic scan tools work at all.
In an EV where the computer has usually been removed or disconnected
this data would not be available.
My understanding is the new Texas yearly safety inspection rules will
require a computer scan to make sure no emission related codes have been
stored and the idiot light disconnected. (it was estimated that 8-10% of
cars in Texas are driving with the check engine light illuminated or
disconnected).
Post '96 converted EV's might get hassled under the new rules. If the
tech cannot scan the computer you automatically fail. When I got the
inspection done for my 89 MR2 the tech had to call the state to ask if
it was ok to pass a vehicle that failed the gascap test.
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Victor wrote:
>Isn't the motor RPM known if you know the roller RPM and
>tranny overall gear ratio and wheel diameter
>(+/- roller slippage and other errors of course)?
Almost... The last "gear" is the ratio between the tire diameter (not a
fixed number but not *that* variable) and the dyno roller diameter (provided
by the dyno shop hopefully).With an auto tranny (not many EVs use them but
many fast ICEs do) there is torque converter slip too.
I'm not suggesting that we get "no useable information", only that to get
accurate motor power and torque curves we need accurate motor rpm. For
brushed motors I think we *want* this kind on info (and all the fastest EVs
in the quarter mile use brushed motors :-)
Neon
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Hay Rich , for those who do make the club , how about a different paint job
on there charger, That green canves is waiting. maybe a sticker "Madman 100
mph club " .
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" > The Madman 100 mph club is AS I stated...
>
> 100 mph on a time slip from a track.
> Licensed and titled... and completely street legal.
>
> All takers welcome... %100 electric Only.
>
> And the slate clears at years End... You have to do it every year.
>
> No BS...
> That's the kind of club I want to be a part of.
>
> Madman.
>
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Rich, I carefully re-read your post and could not find any mention of you
referring to "The Madman 100 mph club". As the only 100 mph club mentioned
previously on this list concerning electrics was the NEDRA one, I mistakenly
thought you were referring to that one. Since I haven't developed the
ability to read minds I didn't know you were naming one after yourself. Why
you would start a club that you could never be a member of is beyond me.
Concerning the "Maniac Mazda", we have raced it licensed and insured but due
to the modifications I think it would be very unfair and unsportsman like to
try and pass it off as a street conversion class vehicle. GP is another
story as you proved it could be street driven by driving it clear to
Kingston from Port Townsend.
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 8:23 AM
Subject: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
This post by Rich may tend to confuse some folks. The Roger Hedlund 100
mph
Club is for any electric vehicle that breaks 100 mph in the quarter mile.
It
does not have to be licensed, it doesn't even have to be a car. It can be
a
dragster, a motorcycle, or a concept vehicle. It does have to be powered
by
onboard electric power.
Roderick Wilde
NEDRA President
Rod, don't be confused Rod.....
The Madman 100 mph club is AS I stated...
100 mph on a time slip from a track.
Licensed and titled... and completely street legal.
All takers welcome... %100 electric Only.
And the slate clears at years End... You have to do it every year.
No BS...
That's the kind of club I want to be a part of.
Madman.
So far Plasma Boy has a 2004 entry, and is rather lonely up there.
Gp or Maniac Mazada could do it... and I know you still have a zilla in
GP.
Put it in the Mazda. Come on Rod.... don't sit on your Laurels.. make new
ones or get off the Pot.
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It's very expensive, and in my opinion, not worth it.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/awmatt/088.jpg
This picture shows three boards I treated with the stuff. I regret using it
because of its very dull appearance/texture. It's nothing like what you'd see
on a factory-built circuit board, which is what I was expecting. I recommend a
600-grit sandpaper instead - it looks and solders great.
Hope this can be of help!
- Arthur Matteson
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Good idea!!!
righ now I have to get Plasma boys ideas since he's the only member.
As to my NOT ever being a memeber.. Well... don't count on that very long
Rod!!
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From: "Steve Clunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: NEDRA 100 mph Club Clarification
> Hay Rich , for those who do make the club , how about a different paint
job
> on there charger, That green canves is waiting. maybe a sticker "Madman
100
> mph club " .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich Rudman" > The Madman 100 mph club is AS I stated...
> >
> > 100 mph on a time slip from a track.
> > Licensed and titled... and completely street legal.
> >
> > All takers welcome... %100 electric Only.
> >
> > And the slate clears at years End... You have to do it every year.
> >
> > No BS...
> > That's the kind of club I want to be a part of.
> >
> > Madman.
> >
>
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Paul G. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I'm not suggesting that we get "no useable information", only
> that to get accurate motor power and torque curves we need
> accurate motor rpm. For brushed motors I think we *want* this
> kind on info (and all the fastest EVs in the quarter mile use
> brushed motors :-)
Except that you *can't* get accurate motor power and torque from a
chassis dyno, accurate motor RPM or not.
The chassis dyno cannot account for the unknown drivetrain losses, so
all it can give you is rear wheel HP and torque referred back to the
motor shaft.
If you want accurate motor HP and torque values, pull the motor and have
*it* dynoed; if you want a decent idea of motor power, either provide an
accurate motor RPM signal to the dyno or use your knowledge of what RPM
your motor spins at a given speed in a given gear to translate the rear
wheel HP/torque vs MPH plots back to the motor shaft.
Cheers,
Roger.
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