EV Digest 4182
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Pipe dreams - 1,000 mile EV (was Re: Introduction) an' Stuff
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) CC Light bulbs (RE: BB-600 Nicad charging)
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Tires again
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Jeep EV Update DC/DC is DEAD
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: 400 lb-ft, 22" BLDC motors, 120#, on Ebay, ending today
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: motor cooling
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Electravan cord & safety switch problem.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Tires again and Powerwheels
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Tires, formula
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Ni-Cad Charging, dv/dt=0
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: BB-600 Nicad Cells - connectors
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Post disaster
by Electro Automotive <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: 400 lb-ft, 22" BLDC motors, 120#, on Ebay, ending today
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) dc-dc converter, 90-370V input, 12V 40A out for $280
by "Markus L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) EV1s to the crusher - Call LA TV news & GO TO BURBANK
by Marc Geller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Kia conversion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: 400 lb-ft, 22" BLDC motors, 120#, on Ebay, ending today
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Ni-Cad Charging, dv/dt=0
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) sick Soleq charger
by Roger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: 400 lb-ft, 22" BLDC motors, 120#, on Ebay, ending today
by "Markus L" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: dc-dc converter, 90-370V input, 12V 40A out for $280
by Mark Farver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Tires again and Powerwheels
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
23) Re: Warning sound for approaching EV
by Michael Shipway <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: 400 lb-ft, 22" BLDC motors, 120#, on Ebay, ending today
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: dc-dc converter, 90-370V input, 12V 40A out for $280
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 1:43 AM
Subject: Re: Pipe dreams - 1,000 mile EV (was Re: Introduction) an' Stuff
> On 9 Mar 2005 at 7:05, Roland Wiench wrote:
>
> > They are in
> > design of a proto type EV that will run with on Cobalt Batteries and 50
KW
> > fuel cell that can run the vehicle or/and charge the batteries.
>
> I believe I've heard this song before. Let's see ...
>
> Ah, here it is. Popular Science Magazine, February 1971.
>
> "The Voltair ... promises a real breakthrough in performance: Tri-polar
lead
> cobalt batteries; series-traction DC motor; solid-state control unit; a
> patented fuel cell which trickle-charges the batteries at a constant rate.
>
> "These achievements come out of many years of experimental work by Robert
R.
> Aronson and his company, Electric Fuel Propulsion, Inc. ...
>
> "When can you buy a Voltair? Soon. Aronson plans to make 300 EFP
Electrics
> by June (1971); they'll sell for $10,000. The Voltair will come after
> that."
>
> Thirty-four years later, I'm still waiting.
>
> I've said this many times before. Bob Aronson is one of the old-timers of
> the EV business, and he deserves respect for his perseverence. But aside
> from a small fleet of grossly overweight Renault conversions over 3
decades
> ago, I've seen more press releases than products roll out of his shop.
I'd
> dearly love to see that change, and I wish him the best, but I'm not
holding
> my breath nor am I writing any checks to him.
>
> Hi EVerybody;
I second that, EVen though I worked for him, back in the deformative
years of Electric Fuel Propulsion, of Detroit. Seems there is SOMEbody else
that used EFP name, in Isreal, I think? He is in Florida, under Appolo
Energy Systems, seems to have taken the Fool Sells bait, wants to charge the
Famous? Tri Polar batteries with them. Sigh! Had he marketed the Tri Polar
thing in itself, in a bare bucket conversion, YEARS ago. If ya follow my
post posts on that.
So, like Dave, I'm waiting<g>! For the Tri Polars for a few hundred miles
range, that he sed that he'd let me know.When I could pick up.
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This a trick often espoused by Lee Hart that I tried and found to work
great. A regular incadescent light bulb can be run on either AC or DC and
draws a fairly constant current across a wide voltage range. This is just
the nature of incadescent bulbs. The current does change, but the voltage
changes quite a bit more and the ratio works out in our favor. When used in
series with a battery pack whose voltage is going to rise 10 - 20 volts
during the charge, the right size light bulb in series keeps the current
almost constant.
The light bulb goes in series with the battery pack.
To get just the right size light bulb, I put multiple light bulbs in
parrallel. To get 3.4 amps of constant current I use about 500 watts of
light bulbs. This is not very effecient use of energy, especially if I am
only charging a single cell, but it is quite convient. I have a set of 5
light bulb sockets that I salvaged out of a hanging lamp all connected in
parallel. I also have a bunch of 100 and 200 watt light bulbs handy. To
increase the current flowing through the whole circuit I just screw in more
light bulbs.
damon
From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: BB-600 Nicad charging
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:02:30 -0700
Damon, why does a string a light bulbs in series make a constant current?
I've seen this suggestion before, but have never understood it. Does the
string go in series with the batteries?
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of damon henry
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 11:31 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: BB-600 Nicad charging
My take on this, is that if you have ever charged a string of Lead Acid
batteries you will find these NiCads much easier. They have less
stringent
requirements and tolerate most "oops events" much more gracefully.
My main charger is a 20 amp motorized variac. I have planned on adding the
brains to it since I first bought it, but to be honest, with just a shutoff
timer it takes very little user input to get a decent charge. Once you are
familiar with your pack you can make a pretty reasonable guess at what
current to start out at and how long to let it run then forget it. A
string
of light bulbs in series makes for an easy CC device, so for any type of
overcharge I just use the lightbulbs to set the current and adjust the
timer.
damon
>From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Subject: BB-600 Nicad charging
>Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 10:11:56 -0800
>
>I'm very seriously contemplating picking up a couple of hundred of the
>Nicads, but one thing is troubling me: The charging. I've heard a lot of
>talk about *how* to charge them (const current, voltage threshold, etc),
>but if I want to charge these reliably, what equipment do I use? Can I
use
>one of the PFC chargers? Would I have to babysit it?
>
>Being that I'm handy with electronics, but I don't really want to design
>and build power electronics, an electronically controllable charger would
>be ideal. In fact, a PFC with a serial port and programmable and
readable
>current / voltage settings would be ideal. You could set the current to
>level X, and the voltage well above the pack peak; voila! constant
current
>-- read the voltage until it reaches a point, then reset your
>voltage/current parameters. Essentially, I want a CV/CC power supply
>that's electronically controllable (as opposed to a knob).
>
>How important is it to monitor individual cells? If you've tested your
>cells and matched them well, how often do you need to check them?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
These reviews that you read were all written by people running gas powered
vehicles, so their idea of what is good will most likely be different than
yours. It seems to me that most LRR tires are quite noisy. I wouldn't make
that too big of factor in your decision. If you want the range, you'll have
to endure the noise. I wagon wheel would be a great choice for you if you
didn't mind the noise, lack of traction, and harsh ride. These are the
three compromises you usually make for LRR.
damon
From: Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Tires again
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 12:30:52 -0600
Hi,
I have looked at all the tires mentioned in the e-mail you attached, Otmar.
Here's what I found:
Michelin MXV4+: Don't come in my size.
Michelin X-One: Don't seem to be avaliable.
Bridgestone Potenza RE-92: Don't come in my size, Got terrible ratings.
Goodyear Integrity: Do come in my size, but got marginal ratings.
So that still leaves me looking at the Toyo 800 ultra and the Pirelli
Scorpion STR A.
I'm a bit leery of the Toyo 800 though after reading reviews. They got a
good overall rating, but many people said that the tires were extremely
noisy, and quite a few people mentioned having tire blow outs, some
multiple times with these tires (they say the side walls are very soft).
Because the Jeep is a heavy vehicle and most of the streets around here
suck, I don't think I want to use a tire that is prone to blow outs. Maybe
I'm being concerned about nothing, though?
The Pirelli Scorpion STR tires got very good ratings, and people said they
are strong and last a long time. The good ratings and the fact that they
have a higher load and pressure rating than the Toyo 800, and are cheaper
is why I'm still considering these. Even if load ratings aren't
significant, I would think that the higher the load rating, the less the
tire will drag on the ground for a given load (assuming you have them at
the right pressure)?
> What you are looking for is a tire that has Silca in the compound.
Anyone know of any other tires that fit this description?
Thanks,
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Less stress on the DC/DC, longer run times if a Event occurs.
Both of my Evs have NO aux battery and have DCP DC/DCs. I have had no
issues. But time is progressing, I expect that they will die from corosion
and rotting Cedars needels.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Jeep EV Update DC/DC is DEAD
> Mark Hanson wrote:
> > I now have my DC converter switched with the ignition and use an aux
battery
> > like normal people.
>
> What are the advantages of using a aux battery besides having a backup
> if the DC/DC dies?
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How much torque is necessary at the input of a 68 Datsun PU
differential to get decent performance? I think mine has the tall
ratio so that puts it in a better speed range for direct drive than
going direct to the wheels.
--- Markus L <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Guys,
>
> I just came across these motors on Ebay and was thinking they
> could make interesting hub motors (maybe unsprung weight is an
> issue) or other direct drive motors for an EV. The seller has
> two for sale ending today.(Items 3880182576 and 3880182438)
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6zjd3
>
> Two of those would give you 800 ft-lb of torque on the wheels
> and none of the driveshaft, differential problems that we heard
> from John Wayland. Wow! I have no idea about the top speed but with
> direct drive I guess one only needs 600 - 1000 RPM depending on the
> tire size to achieve a reasonable top speed.
>
> Shipping these 120# motors is not going to be cheap, plus there
> is a $50 crating fee but it looks like the motors are gonna go
> for little money (possibly). Of course it would take
> somebody like Rob Hower to make a controller for them as that is not
> included.
>
> Anyhow, wish I had the time and know-how to play with
> them myself ... sigh ... know nothing about the seller
> - just passing on the pointer.
>
> Markus
>
>
. _______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(_ | |_) http://ecloud.org/ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
__) | | \______________________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
brian baumel wrote:
> Could some one tell me if this is a bad idea. I am
> working on piping air into my motor for cooling. The
> current plan is to scoop the air from the front of the
> car and pipe it to the back where the motor is.
The air passages through the motor are pretty small and tortuous. Ram
air alone will not provide enough pressure to move any useful amount of
air. So, you need a squirrel-cage blower to develop enough pressure to
move useful amounts of air.
Once you have a blower, it does not really matter where it gets its air
intake. It would be better to place the intake somewhere that it won't
pick up dust, snow, or other debris.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bad design. There is a nut holding the switch in the center of the four
charging contacts. It unscrewed welding to the contact point of the 12v
system. The truck runs but I can't get 12v out of the receptical.
Something blew. Also the switch has two wires to one contact. The only
thing I can think of is it is supposed to disable the 12v system without
which the truck goes no where. It must somehow make continuity to ground.
LR........
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 11:06 PM
Subject: Electravan cord & safety switch problem.
On the Electravan there is a center switch in the receptical that is
supposed to stop the truck from operating when pluged in. Doesn't work.
My wife drove off tearing some stuff up. Mainly I thought the wire ties
holding the line to the ceiling of the garage. Well that receptical blew
up on me tonight carbon blacking my right hand when I tried to charge.
No pain but I had to use the green scratchy side of the sponge to clean
my hand. I think the center switch spring poped out and welded to the
receptical. I can plug in but I see fire works inside. I don't dare
plug in the charger untill this is fixed. Seems that both the receptical
and the plug are now bad. After 25 years I guess things do break. I
can't find anything about the center switch in the receptical in the
manual. I think I'll rewire it with a relay but that won't work unless
I'm charging. Are there off the shelf recepticals with that switch wired
in? Four connectors 12v & 120vdc & a switch in the center. NC. When
pluged in open. Not sure what it is but it is now FUBAR.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415-821-3519
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Shelton wrote:
>Can I put a narrower tire on the rims it has now, namely the Michelin
Agilis >205/65 15 tires
This says that size will fit on wheels that are 5.5" wide to 6.5"
wide. How wide are the wheels on your truck?
http://www.michelinman.com/assets/pdfs/doc_agilis.pdf
http://www.michelinman.com/catalog/tires/MichelinAgilis.html?tiretype=5&tire=7
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tire Diameter in Inches = (Section Width)(Aspect Ratio)/25.4 * 2 + Rim
Diameter
IE: 205/55/16 (205)(.55)/25.4 * 2 + 16 = 24.87"
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: Tires again and Powerwheels
> Listers,
> I will soon need to replace the tires on my truck so this is a timely
discussion for me. My Nissan pickup has 215/65 15 tires on it now. Can I put
a narrower tire on the rims it has now, namely the Michelin Agilis 205/65 15
tires Otmar spoke about, without causing any damage or handling problems? I
spoke with the sales counter people at Sears and of course they recommended
against it saying that it could cause problems with ABS and 4x4 systems. I
don't have 4x4 but I do have ABS. Now I don't know if they were just being
good little sales people or if they actually knew what they were talking
about. They didn't even know what LRR tires were but you never know what
they could be right about. As with most people on the list, I don't care
about noise, ride harshness, etc., all I want is better mileage.
> Also, I found a web page, http://www.i-zapp.com/e-quad/ , that has a
really cool modification for a kids Powerwheels cart. The web site hasn't
been updated since 2001 and e-mails to them go unanswered so I can't buy the
plans. Does anyone on the list have a copy of the plans they would like to
sell? If not, does anyone know how wide a rear axle would work on this and
what diameter of tire do the tires on the site look like? I've seen these
kinds of cars at garage sales and thrift shops a million times dirt cheap so
I know I can pick one up for nothing. Thanks for any help and/or advice on
the questions.
>
> John Shelton
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
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>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Howdy, I don't see why a standard IEI charge curve dv/dt=0 wouldn't work on
ni-cads. I was trying it on some STM-180's that I was checking out with my
T-105's. The Ni-cads (also according to the manual on the saft website)
stop rising in voltage as they reach their complete charge. They also
however drop off a bit after charge, so you would have to make sure that
your uP algorithm sees the differential .01V per cell per hour in the
plateau and to shut-off if it starts dropping. This is what my lead charger
does anyway so I just used it and equalized every couple weeks.
Mark www.solectrol.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Massey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 1:12 AM
Subject: Light globes for constant current, was RE: BB-600 Nicad charging
> At 09:02 PM 13/03/05 -0700, Bill Dennis wrote:
> > why does a string a light bulbs in series make a constant current?
>
> Hi All
>
> I have never actually used this method to charge a battery, this is from
> first principles, I'm certain that Lee and others will be able to give a
> more precise/real world answer to this, but a way to describe what happens
> (hopefully in simple terms) is as follows:
>
> The first thing needed to be known is the behaviour of a light globe: the
> filament in a cold light globe has much lower resistance than a hot (lit)
> one [as an aside, that's why they will normally fail at switch-on].
>
> The second piece of information is one that I doubt anyone on this list
> would not already know: as batteries of the type we are describing charge
> up, their voltage rises.
>
> The follower to the bit about the battery voltage changing with state of
> charge, is that if a battery is charged from a constant-voltage DC power
> source, the source will attempt to deliver as many amps as it takes to get
> the battery volts up to the source voltage, something that usualy can't
> happen - so breakers trip and transformers get burnt out.
>
> So when you have a light bulb *of a suitable voltage and power* connected
> in between a relatively fixed-voltage DC power source and a battery, when
> the battery is down on voltage, the filament will have a significant
> proportion of its designed voltage across it, so it will get hot and light
> up. Because it is hot, its' resistance is [relatively] high, limiting the
> current to around what a fully-on lamp as stated passes (eg, 100W, 100V is
> 1A, 12V 100W is 8.3A, etc.).
>
> As the battery state of charge rises, the amount of voltage across the
> filament falls, so it cools, and so its' resistance falls, allowing more
> current through it. But there is lower voltage across it due to the
battery
> voltage being higher - viola! the current doesn't change much as the
> battery voltage rises (I'd predict that it would gradually fall, but
> probably not linearly).
>
> The practicalities of using this method I can see relate to how to
optimize
> the light globe.
>
> The DC power source would need to be just a little higher than full-charge
> voltage for the battery.
>
> The filament voltage will need to be around the voltage swing of
> full-discharge to full-charge of the battery, for example, an 120V
> lead-acid pack will swing from around 105V to around 150V, a 45V swing. So
> 4 x 12-volt or 2 x 24V light globes in series will cover that. How much
> current you want will determine the wattage - to follow the example, if
24V
> 'globes' are used, and it is desired to current-limit at say 2 to 2.5A,
> then 55W 'globes' would be chosen to allow around 2.3A (55W @ 24V =
2.29A).
> Changing the 'globes' changes the amps, 100W @ 24V = 4.17A, 100W @ 12V =
> 8.3A and so-on.
>
> Hope this is useful to someone. I wasn't intending making this to be so
> long, but that is what it took - sorry about that!
>
> Regards
>
> James Massey
> Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That's usually the case, everything gets the heave-ho by the clueless spouse
when the guy croaks. I got some stuff that was selling by the pound,
fluorescent light fixtures going the same as O'scopes. Needless to say, I
bought an Tektronix O'scope and a pile of resistors/caps. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: BB-600 Nicad Cells - connectors
> I'll prob go into Tucson tomorrow, I'll stop by and see if there is
anybody around that might know where the stuff went. But from what the guy I
talked to said and his tone of voice, I think that the chances of the widow
cooperating are pretty slim.
>
> I'll give it a try.
>
> Rush
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 7:42 AM
> Subject: RE: BB-600 Nicad Cells - connectors
>
>
> > Is it possible to contact the widow and find out where the stuff went?
> >
> > Since it seems NiCads have to be paid by the recyclee to be recycled,
the
> > current possessor of the cells might be willing to give them to you for
> > (next to) nothing. As Pete said, they must be somewhere nearby....
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.2 - Release Date: 3/11/2005
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:50 PM 3/12/05 -0800, you wrote:
Had a recent melt down at work.
Golf cart repair tech came out and drilled a small hole in the left overs
of a melted post. Then drove a self tapping screw with a replacement lug
on it. Melt down occurred due to loose cable which became over heated
during charging.
Yes. This is why you don't want to use lugs bolted to the top of univeral
posts in a road-going EV. They WILL become loose, as the lead deforms
under pressure and the stud creeps up and out of the post. They WILL melt,
with great regularity.
Shari Prange
Electro Automotive POB 1113 Felton CA 95018-1113 Telephone 831-429-1989
http://www.electroauto.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Electric Car Conversion Kits * Components * Books * Videos * Since 1979
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Markus L wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> I just came across these motors on Ebay and was thinking they
> could make interesting hub motors (maybe unsprung weight is an
> issue) or other direct drive motors for an EV. The seller has
> two for sale ending today.(Items 3880182576 and 3880182438)
>
> http://tinyurl.com/6zjd3
>
> Two of those would give you 800 ft-lb of torque on the wheels
> and none of the driveshaft, differential problems that we heard
> from John Wayland. Wow! I have no idea about the top speed but with
> direct drive I guess one only needs 600 - 1000 RPM depending on the
> tire size to achieve a reasonable top speed.
>
> Shipping these 120# motors is not going to be cheap, plus there
> is a $50 crating fee but it looks like the motors are gonna go
> for little money (possibly). Of course it would take
> somebody like Rob Hower to make a controller for them as that is not
> included.
>
> Anyhow, wish I had the time and know-how to play with
> them myself ... sigh ... know nothing about the seller
> - just passing on the pointer.
>From the photos it appears to have something like 60 poles. So at 60hz
it's only turning 60 rpm. He says the coils were outputting 235vac at
this speed. So, if you used these as wheel motors, you would have an
extremely low-speed EV, and still need a very high voltage battery pack.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Guys,
I stumbled over these DC-DC converters and think that
others have voiced concern over no high voltage DC-DC
converters to be available anymore
(Discussion following Nick's DCP DC-DC break down)
http://www.powerstream.com/DC-HV.htm
I myself am looking for a cheap way of making 5 - 48V
(adjustable) max. 5A out of 36V. Anybody have an idea?
(Its to control the field on my 36V elec-trak
compound wound motor)
Markus
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 16:16:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: dc-dc converter, 90-370V input, 12V 40A out for $280
From: "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
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I requested information on these some months back, and the response was
that they are isolated, and IIRC they are "somewhat" current limited.
They will drop voltage to some extent, but it's still possible to draw
enough current through them to cause overheating.
--chris
Mark Farver said:
> Markus L wrote:
>
>>Guys,
>>
>>I stumbled over these DC-DC converters and think that
>>others have voiced concern over no high voltage DC-DC
>>converters to be available anymore
>>(Discussion following Nick's DCP DC-DC break down)
>>
>>http://www.powerstream.com/DC-HV.htm
>>
>>
>
> We've looked at these powerstream converters a few times before on this
> list. The two questions that I've yet to hear answered are:
>
> Is it isolated?
>
> Does it have (battery charger) current limiting or does it just shutdown
> like the Vicors?
>
> If no one has tried one of these I'll call the manufacturer and probably
> order one for testing.
>
> Mark
>
>
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