EV Digest 4347
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Contactors
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Lacey Alt. Fueled Vehicle Fair & Electrathon
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Lacey Alt. Fueled Vehicle Fair & Electrathon
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) LogiSystems, was Re: SCR controllers?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: RPM Counters
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) pulling a original prestolite from an Renault
by Tony McCormick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: LogiSystems, was Re: SCR controllers?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Controllers, Home Brew or Production Made?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) SCR controller (misunderstood), &6V(sam's club)
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: RPM Counters
by brian baumel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: An update regarding my JeepEV
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Smarts in the US
by James D Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Contactors
by Ken Lange <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Fiero conversions
by Ken Lange <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) AC drive system on eBay
by "Karl Nichols" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: AC drive system on eBay
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Isolated chargers
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Contactors
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Lacey Alt. Fueled Vehicle Fair & Electrathon
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Contactors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Contactors
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: RPM Counters
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: What's a contactor controller?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: pulling a original prestolite from an Renault
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: pulling a original prestolite from an Renault
by "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Shocking Information
by "Brian D.Hall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Motor Machine Shop Idea
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) A very SMART GFCI ??
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Fortunat and All,
Fortunat Mueller wrote:
> But I also have a couple Kilovac Czonka contactors
> that I got surplus. These are definitely a more
> attractive solution but I am worried about their
> current capacity. EVparts.com says "Will Break 2000
> Amps at 320 Volts DC". Is that true ? If so, it would
> seem I am golden.
>
> are there any disadvantages to these nice, compact,
> sealed contactors compared to the big honking
> albrights ?
>
Those are great contactors...I have several of them. They are very tough, and
yes, they
can do what they're rated at. I used two of them in earliest series-parallel
setup for
White Zombie, and they had to carry 1400 amps of motor current, plus, deal with
motor back
emf during switch-over from series to parallel. I never once, had any problems
with them,
and they are good.
I pulled them only when I decided to go with the Afterburner mode of controller
bypass and
the 2500+ amps of expected current...that, would be too much for them, as it
was even for
their big brother, the Bubba. At 240 volts and that current level, the Bubbas
last for 4-6
runs before welding occurs.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It was a very positive EVent with a great turnout. Like Pat, I had no
windmill or gen-on-the-wheel questions. Many folks were seriously interested
in a car conversion and/or an electric bike.
One of Dave Cloud's racers won in the open class of electrathon. Cloud EV
also fielded a new racer but had some early component failures.
I spent the day either on my EVG mini folding ebike or at the EV display
area talking about EVs while the ebike was being charged off the car. The
ebike was very popular and performs well for the crowd with a 100 amp
controller :^D
Father Time brought his recently constructed 72V drag bike "FrankenDragon".
There was also a bicycle dealer with all kinds of recumbents including a
very nice tadpole trike and also the new Giant Revive.
If any listers were there and have photos they want to email to me, that
would be great :^D
Pat Sweeney wrote:
Wow did we have fun. I hung out all day with Father Time, John Frost, & Roy
Lemeur. Lots of people stopped by to look at the cars & bikes. John brought
his Shiny red Electric Porsche, Father Time had his newest Green Electric
Drag Bike, Roy Lemeur had a really cool folding electric bike and an
electric Fiat convertible, and I had my Electric Fiero & electric Recumbent
bike. There were other EVs, Hybrids, BioDiesel, & CNG vehicles. The crowd
was pretty good with lots of Intelligent questions. I didn't get one
windmill on the roof or generator on each wheel suggestion.
Pat Sweeney
.
Roy LeMeur
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.cloudelectric.com
http://www.dcelectricsupply.com
Cloud Electric Vehicles
19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
Kent, Washington 98032
phone: 425-251-6380
fax: 425-251-6381
Toll Free: 800-648-7716
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Howdy Folks
Forwarding this from the EVDL. Thanks to all that showed up :^D
________________________________
It was a very positive EVent with a great turnout. Like Pat, I had no
windmill or gen-on-the-wheel questions. Many folks were seriously interested
in a car conversion and/or an electric bike.
One of Dave Cloud's racers won in the open class of electrathon. Cloud EV
also fielded a new racer but had some early component failures.
I spent the day either on my EVG mini folding ebike or at the EV display
area talking about EVs while the ebike was being charged off the car. The
ebike was very popular and performs well for the crowd with a 100 amp
controller :^D
Father Time brought his recently constructed 72V drag bike "FrankenDragon".
There was also a bicycle dealer with all kinds of recumbents including a
very nice tadpole trike and also the new Giant Revive.
If any listers were there and have photos they want to email to me, that
would be great :^D
Pat Sweeney wrote:
Wow did we have fun. I hung out all day with Father Time, John Frost, & Roy
Lemeur. Lots of people stopped by to look at the cars & bikes. John brought
his Shiny red Electric Porsche, Father Time had his newest Green Electric
Drag Bike, Roy Lemeur had a really cool folding electric bike and an
electric Fiat convertible, and I had my Electric Fiero & electric Recumbent
bike. There were other EVs, Hybrids, BioDiesel, & CNG vehicles. The crowd
was pretty good with lots of Intelligent questions. I didn't get one
windmill on the roof or generator on each wheel suggestion.
Pat Sweeney
.
Roy LeMeur
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.cloudelectric.com
http://www.dcelectricsupply.com
Cloud Electric Vehicles
19428 66th Ave So, Q-101
Kent, Washington 98032
phone: 425-251-6380
fax: 425-251-6381
Toll Free: 800-648-7716
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Is this the same:
> Logisystems
> 5301 W. oakey blvd
> 702-498-9047
> ???
> dO THEY MAKE A 120 VOLT ONE?
>
> hOW MUCH BETTER is the zilla than curtis?
How do you quantify "MUCH"?! Can we just say "LOTS" and "worth the money"?
The address and phone number you have are totally different from the one below
that was supplied as the contact - where did you find the one above? It's in
Vegas, but do *they* rebuild controllers?
Supposedly they have a 120V/1000A version for <$700. Best to call them if in the
market, because no-one on the EVDL has given any feedback on this company yet.
> >
> > LogiSystems
> > 9910 West 64th Street
> > Odessa, Texas 79764
> >
> > Phone (432) 381-6000
> > Fax (432) 381-6001
> > no website - they need to do this!
> >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:24 AM 8/05/05 -0700, keith vansickle wrote:
hi james,bill and all,
what method do you all recommend to find the RPM of
exposed axle shafts on a front wheel drive veh. can I
place a mag and use a bicycle speedo pickup? if so how
to get pulses into RPM???
Hi Keith
On the rally cars they use an inductive proximity switch mounted inside the
brake assembly (I have never done it, only fixed a couple of the terratrip
units that they feed). A search using appropriate terms such as "terratrip
speed sensor" may turn up the mounting method used.
To mount something to a front wheel shaft, a pair of heavy-duty hose clamps
(the ones with a bolt, not a worm) would be able to do it. The problem you
have is that as the suspension moves, the angle of the drive shaft changes
relative to just about everything around it. You need something that
retains position relative to your sensor to be able to detect it.
To get wheel speed into motor RPM is not that difficult, it just changes
for each gear. The actual implementation of changing ratios and detecting
which ratio to use is an issue.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I haven't posted anything to this list in a long time, but I have a
question that I figure only this audience can help me with.
I smoked my 48volt prestolite motor the other day on the way home and
now I've gotten to the last steps of pulling it out to be replaceed
with a ADC 8". Only, I could use some tips on pulling the motor, I
have unbolted the obvious stuff on the adapter plate and the carriage,
but it seems to still be connected at the shaft. I don't what to 'pry'
it apart unless that's what you are supposed to do (cars are like that
sometimes). I can see two set screws in the 1/2" gap between the
adapter plate and the tranny that go into the collar. I suspect that is
the culprit, but they seem virtually impossible to get to with out some
kind of special, long square head tool.
Anyone do a replacement on an old Electric Leopard? Ideas?
--
Tony
Tigard, Or
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I searched the list for any messages about
LogiSystems, and the only thing that came up was
another address.
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Is this the same:
> > Logisystems
> > 5301 W. oakey blvd
> > 702-498-9047
> > ???
> > dO THEY MAKE A 120 VOLT ONE?
> >
> > hOW MUCH BETTER is the zilla than curtis?
>
> How do you quantify "MUCH"?! Can we just say "LOTS"
> and "worth the money"?
>
> The address and phone number you have are totally
> different from the one below
> that was supplied as the contact - where did you
> find the one above? It's in
> Vegas, but do *they* rebuild controllers?
>
> Supposedly they have a 120V/1000A version for <$700.
> Best to call them if in the
> market, because no-one on the EVDL has given any
> feedback on this company yet.
>
> > >
> > > LogiSystems
> > > 9910 West 64th Street
> > > Odessa, Texas 79764
> > >
> > > Phone (432) 381-6000
> > > Fax (432) 381-6001
> > > no website - they need to do this!
> > >
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail Mobile
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John what's your opinion of Curtis?
What about simple driving from work daily...isn't the
siller or raptor overkill?
--- John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello to All,
>
> >From Lee Hart:
>
> > Those who seek to build their own controllers
> without seriously studying
> > existing controllers are just wasting their time,
> re-inventing the wheel.
> >
> >
> On and off over the years here on the EVDL, we get
> those fairly new to the game, wanting
> to build their own controllers, whether simplistic
> or more similar to designs already on
> the market. I just shake my head as I read the posts
> and remember when I too, thought it
> wasn't a big deal to make my own on-road EV motor
> controller. It was back in 1980 when I
> loosely studied things and built my own controller.
> After assembling a row of steel cased
> power transistors on a big heat sink with what I
> though was appropriate circuitry and all
> (never mind the fact that I left out ripple caps or
> any semblance of flyback diodes), I
> jacked my EV up and tried it out....it worked....
> for about 5 minutes of playing around
> with the throttle and all, but then there was this
> BIG bang, lots of smoke, and pieces of
> shrapnel imbedded in the sheet rock walls of my
> garage (this was pre-backyard shop
> days)!!! Several hundred dollars of parts up in
> smoke, and lucky to still have functioning
> eyes.
>
> Of course, that was 25 years ago and I like to think
> I've learned a bit since then :-)
> Still, it takes a lot of thought, a lot of money,
> and a lot of testing to design and build
> a non-audible, reliable and powerful, high voltage
> - high current DC motor controller.
> Just ask some of the seasoned electronic gurus here
> on the list, how much high dollar
> silicon they've blown up.
>
> Kudos to Otmar, who's Cafe Electric offers the
> incredibly reliable, super powerful, super
> flexible Zilla line of DC motor controllers. These
> controllers are absolutely state of the
> art, and in my opinion, they are the very best you
> can buy. I know of no other DC motor
> controller designed for road going or all out racing
> EVs, that even comes close. Consider
> my original #3 Godzilla 1400 amp controller. It's
> still setting records in White Zombie,
> has never, ever failed, and has survived driving all
> kinds of insidious loads under my
> watch, from arcing 9 inch ADCs, to Kostovs running
> with partially melted armature
> windings, to twin motors being switched in and out
> of series and parallel, and operating
> at pack voltages up to 336 volts and subjected to
> controller bypasses...through all of
> this, it still just keeps on cranking out incredible
> power.
>
> I've reluctantly sold my other incredibly powerful
> and very reliable DCP 1200 Raptor
> controller, the only other controller that came
> close to a Zilla, though comparing a 1200
> amp controller with an upper ceiling of 168V to a
> 336V, 2000 amp Godzilla isn't really an
> apples to apples thing. Nonetheless, Damon and Rich
> built one nice air-cooled 156V rated
> controller, and my Raptor transformed Blue Meanie
> into a high performance EV.
>
> The controller lineup for me now, is pure Otmar,
> pure Cafe Electric, pure Zilla. It starts
> with the Z 1K Zilla presently being installed in
> Blue Meanie, along with 17 new Orbitals
> at 204V, then, there's the Godzilla 1400 amp still
> powering White Zombie (along with the
> Afterburner bypass mode) but now back to working at
> 336V with 28 fresh Hawkers soon to
> arrive, and finally, the BIG 2000 amp 348V Zilla for
> the Purple Phaze electric drag truck
> that will draw off 560 hp of stored electrical power
> via 29 Exide Orbitals. It will be
> heavy, but with most of its weight in batteries, it
> should be scary quick and fast!
>
> Lee Hart wrote:
>
> > Stu and Jan wrote:
> > > A buddy of mine came up with this: Take a speed
> controller from
> > > a variable speed dc drill. Use the controller to
> control a high
> > > voltage high current IGBT. Done!
> >
> > An EV controller is one of those problems where a
> little knowledge is
> > dangerous!
>
> Amen!
>
> Lee, thank you for such a well written post.
>
> >
> > Someone with a lot of experience in high-power
> electronics could
> > probably get this to work. However, such a person
> is also knowledgeable
> > enough to know that this is not a good way to do
> it.
> >
> > There are quite a few subtle problems. The
> beginner is likely to ignore
> > them, or not even be aware that they exist. Here
> are a few:
> >
> > 1. Heatsinking. IGBTs have about.....7. Details,
> details... High-power controllers are
> > incredibly noisy.
> > It takes heroic measures to keep low-power
> control circuits stable
> > and "sane" around them.......
>
> See Ya......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
>
> Plasma Boy Racing
> 'We blow stuff up, so you don't have to'
>
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail Mobile
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for all the responses.
I'm not in the mood to make anything so complicated.
My experience with electronics is that most of the
time they give you a circuit to make, it them blows
up, and then they tell you what you did wrong.
My orginal question was there some off the shelf SCR
controllers that could be used. I wasn't interested in
taking a drill controller and connecting it to a IGBT.
If it's complicated.
Also, I the 6Volt golf cart batteries at Sam's Club
are $48.13, with a 12 month policy. They say EXIDE on
them, and they are 110 Amps in 75 minutes...I figure
if I get 18 of them would give me 113.4 volts (6.3v
per battery) and could be charged with my 120vac
through a bridge. I'm only getting 117VAC at my house.
Thanks so much. I'm trying to avoid any high costs.
Since this is my first test project. I don't feel like
spending 6K on a kit...but I'll probably spend $4K.
In regards to my batteries freezing up here at -40
degrees. A local engineering professor, is more
worried about overheating in an insulated box.
Obviously I'll need to have some sort of fan. He also
said that there is an internal resistance. Does anyone
know what that value is?
Thanks!!!
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I simply placed a hall effect sensor near my fly
wheel. place a magnet BEHIND the sensor and every time
a teeth passes by, it induces a magnetic field change
and the sensor produces a digital clock pulse. no need
to mount anything and a rotating surface. then you
just divide by how many teeth are on your fly wheel.
search digikey for "MLX90217LUA-ND". for about $6 you
can get a precision sensor designed for automotive
use.
Brian
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 11:24 AM 8/05/05 -0700, keith vansickle wrote:
> >hi james,bill and all,
> >what method do you all recommend to find the RPM of
> >exposed axle shafts on a front wheel drive veh.
> can I
> >place a mag and use a bicycle speedo pickup? if so
> how
> >to get pulses into RPM???
>
> Hi Keith
>
> On the rally cars they use an inductive proximity
> switch mounted inside the
> brake assembly (I have never done it, only fixed a
> couple of the terratrip
> units that they feed). A search using appropriate
> terms such as "terratrip
> speed sensor" may turn up the mounting method used.
>
> To mount something to a front wheel shaft, a pair of
> heavy-duty hose clamps
> (the ones with a bolt, not a worm) would be able to
> do it. The problem you
> have is that as the suspension moves, the angle of
> the drive shaft changes
> relative to just about everything around it. You
> need something that
> retains position relative to your sensor to be able
> to detect it.
>
> To get wheel speed into motor RPM is not that
> difficult, it just changes
> for each gear. The actual implementation of changing
> ratios and detecting
> which ratio to use is an issue.
>
> James
>
>
Discover Yahoo!
Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Rich (& all),
Rich Rudman wrote:
First the PFC30 is supposed to make 39.5 amps into a 120 volt stack,
And for the first 5 minutes, you better see that 39.5 amps. Once the
yellow starts flashing, then you should see the amps fall as the
unit goes into thermal cut back.
Yes, but my charger goes into thermal limit after about 3-5 minutes of
operation on a typical hot Texas day. So the majority of my bulk
charging is done at a lower current.
Bigger fans and Liquid cooling are the solution. But I can't get much
more power through that box as it stands.
I agree, and I'm at some point going to get around to installing a duct
system to the charger with an extra fan or two to help increase air flow
to it.
Once the timer is set you have only the dialed in time effecting how
long it will run until it shuts off. There is no state 3. The blink
rate of the Blue led speeds up as the time counts down.
I was only noting the timer as being in three different "states" because
the LED flash rate doesn't change smoothly with respect to time left,
but instead jumps from/to either "slow", "medium", or "fast" flashing.
either up the timer setting or just reset the charger and have it
time out again. -snip- I just cycle the power, and time it another 30
minutes. Since you did not get the amps to taper below 6 amps it
needs another cycle or you need to up your timer length.
I too have been turning my charger off/on to reset the timer and force
it to continue charging into my "fully charged" pack. My concern is that
I've got the timer set for way _longer_ than what it is actually giving me.
Having the timer adj set to 80 minutes and the time out taking only
38 minutes... is problematic. I have seen this happen when the back
side of the controller PCB gets some contamination on it. The digital
lines from the Digi pot(the timer adjust switch) get crossed and the
the timer latch gets the wrong input. Since this is a Cmos input....
it doesn't take much.
Hmmm, I wonder then if this is what I'm experiencing with my charger? It
sounds very likely.
Also, do you remember the problems I was having with my charger at first
(the real bad surging it was doing), which ended up being caused by that
integrated circuit? I believe the IC was for a remote function or
something, and I ended up removing it and inserting a jumpered DIP
socket in it's place to bypass the IC, as per your advice. Although
doing so fixed my charger's surging problems, maybe this modification
has been causing this weirdness with the timer all along? Or maybe my
jumper has become loose? Could that cause problems with the timer?
I can take the cover off my charger and check this out, but I don't like
to open up the charger without talking to you first. ;-)
Thanks,
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe they can be sold as auto parts if they are sold as gliders with no
engine.
That would probably satisfy the EPA, but you still have to rebuild them
to meet DOT crash standards (and you have to prove that you have the
necessary engineering data to do so *before* you can import them for resale).
David Thompson
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The 'Czonka III' contactors certainly are small,
lightweight, and sealed. I also bought a couple
of them ($20 each); these had additional switching
added which I removed to give a standard Czonka.
If you look at the 'specs', it is rated to break 2000
amps only once; after that it does not meet dielectric
and insulation resistance numbers.
Still, it looks pretty good to me.
Ken Lange
------ Original message ------
Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 12:18:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Contactors
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hey all,
I am laying out the HV wiring for my fiero and have a
quick question about contactors :
I have two Albright contactors that I used in my
previous EV. I believe they are SW200, and if you
believe EVParts.com, they are rated to break 1500 A.
But I also have a couple Kilovac Czonka contactors
that I got surplus. These are definitely a more
attractive solution but I am worried about their
current capacity. EVparts.com says "Will Break 2000
Amps at 320 Volts DC". Is that true ? If so, it would
seem I am golden.
are there any disadvantages to these nice, compact,
sealed contactors compared to the big honking
albrights ?
thanks
~fortunat
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I put a couple of Optimas there, but it doesn't sound
like that's an option for you.
The other item I put there was an emergency disconnect
switch. The switch is in the tunnel while the know is
in the cockpit, between your right leg and the shifter.
This keeps the HV outside the cabin (one of my objectives).
You can get some sheet ABS and keep 'most' of the water
out.
Best regards,
Ken Lange
--Original Message----------------
Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 12:21:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Fortunat Mueller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fiero conversions
To: [email protected]
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I know lots of folks have done fiero conversions
(including several on the list). My question : what
did you do with the space where the fuel tank used to
be ? It is such prime real estate, that it seems like
such a waste to leave it empty. But unless you have
sealed batteries, they can't go there.
any good ideas ?
I know someone mounted a controller down there. Any
problem with that (assuming you can keep it dry) ?
any other clever solutions ?
thanks
~fortunat
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All
I am a newbie to the EV world and been reading this list for a few months
now trying to collect all your ideas for my 94 Toyota truck Hot Rod project.
I am looking for something fun to drive and have some respectable
performance not really looking to compete at the track but I have been
following all the talk about twin 8-9" motors or a 13" with series /
parallel switching and a Z2K with a ford 9" rear end.
Can any one tell me about the difference in performance using this AC system
compared to the DC systems and would this be a good choice for a fun EV or
is it just too heavy duty for a light truck?
I have e-mailed evdoc and found out that it came out of a 30 passenger bus
and that it would have all the power I wanted. I have no doubt that he knows
what he is talking about I was just looking for a second or third opinion.
I had a chance to meet Tom Gage from AC Propulsion and see the TZero last
weekend so I have started looking at the AC systems of course theirs costs
around $25K making this used system a great bargain if it's a good fit
Thanks for your help
Karl Nichols
Phx. AZ
I chatted with evdoc a few weeks ago. He had a Dolphin inverter up there
on Ebay and we discussed selling all of his Dolphins. Bart picked three
up and another person on our list picked up the other one.
As a result two of the Hughes Dolphin crew got their cars running and we
now have two more for other people. This is a very good thing.
Apparently he worked on the Hughes side back in the 1990's. He seems to
be fair and reasonable.
Chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> OK, which one of youz guyz is "evdoc", and why didn't you mention this?
Out of
> my league, but looks like a deal:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=454836352
4
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Karl Nichols wrote:
> I have e-mailed evdoc and found out that it came out of a 30 passenger bus
"motor weighs appox. 600 lbs"
What's this motor red line at?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Quick other side of the coin question on isolation:
If I wanted to charge 10 batteries at once that were connected in
series, could I just use a single 120 volt AC source, and a charge
circuit that involved a transformer on each mini-charger and a seperate
DC power supply to each battery?
Thus each charger would be 100% isolated from any other, correct? (any
monitor signals would be buffered by optoisolators)
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: Ken Lange <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Contactors
Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 20:19:31 -0700
The 'Czonka III' contactors certainly are small,
lightweight, and sealed. I also bought a couple
of them ($20 each); these had additional switching
added which I removed to give a standard Czonka.
Can you still get these for $20 each. Where?
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Now is time , if you have a EV , find a place in your town and ask the owner
, Its not that hard to do something , anything , then just let it grow. If
its just you and a card table the first year that's ok , its a start.
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Wow did we have fun. . The crowd was pretty good with
lots of Intelligent questions. I didn't get one windmill on the roof or
generator on each wheel suggestion.
Pat Sweeney
I didn't want to brag but there was "gen on a wheel " sightings at the Fort
Pierce rally , I wanted to video this rare bird in its full glory but they
are hard to get on camera. Florida is the "gen on a wheel " capital , but
for some unknown reason they are disappearing .
Steve Clunn
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Fortunat Mueller wrote:
> I have two Albright contactors that I used in my
> previous EV. I believe they are SW200, and if you
> believe EVParts.com, they are rated to break 1500 A.
>
> But I also have a couple Kilovac Czonka contactors
> that I got surplus. These are definitely a more
> attractive solution but I am worried about their
> current capacity. EVparts.com says "Will Break 2000
> Amps at 320 Volts DC". Is that true ? If so, it would
> seem I am golden.
>
> are there any disadvantages to these nice, compact sealed contactors
> compared to the big honking albrights ?
When a contactor is asked to break full power, it can do it ONCE. The
contacts will be destroyed in the process. The main advantage to the
Albrights is that they have replaceable contacts. With the Kilovacs, you
have to throw them away and replace them.
A second advantage is that you can INSPECT the contacts of the
Albrights. You can see if you are damaging them from arcing or other
abuse.
The flip side is that the contacts are exposed to their environment.
Bugs, dirt, water, etc. can get on them. If there are explosive fumes
around, the arc from the contacts could set it on fire.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
I had written:
John Wayland wrote:
> Hello Fortunat and All,
>
> Fortunat Mueller wrote:
>
> > But I also have a couple Kilovac Czonka contactors
> > that I got surplus.
>
> Those are great contactors...I have several of them. They are very tough, and
> yes, they
> can do what they're rated at. I used two of them in earliest series-parallel
> setup for
> White Zombie, and they had to carry 1400 amps of motor current, plus, deal
> with motor back
> emf during switch-over from series to parallel. I never once, had any
> problems with them,
> and they are good.
This was 'before' I learned that it was the Czonka III contactors, not the
Czonka II
contactors, like the ones I have. I also have some of the small round white
colored Czonka
III contactors, but they aren't even close to the same as the more beefy
EV250-2A Czonka II
contactors. The EV250-2A style is the one with the coil economizer circuitry
built in.
The original Czonka contactor, is a tallish, round black contactor with a
square base, model
PD150XA57. I use one in Blue Meanie, and it has held up very well to the 1200
amp surges of
power, now about 9 years. I think it's rated at 250 vdc and 200 amps
continuous. Madman
and I did manage to melt one of them while testing a DCP 1200 controller in the
5300 lb. Red
Beastie on a c-c-cold day here in Portland once, when we were pulling the 4
mile long, 6.5
grade of Canyon Road. We flew up the hill with surprising speed considering a
single ADC
motor was doing all the work of hauling 5700+ lbs. (with the two of us on
board) up that hill
at more than 60 mph!! Near the top of the grade, the truck went dead and we
coasted off the
road into a parking lot. The full and continuous 1200 amps of the powerful
Raptor 1200
controller had taken its toll on the model PD150XA57 Czonka.
The next generation Czonka, was the Czonka II, model EV250-2A, the same
contactor used in
GM's EV1. It's the one I had written about above. It's rated at 250A, 320 vdc.
It's a
squareish shaped, black contactor, and is very robust. I'll probably swap out
my original
PD150XA57 Czonka for a fresh EV250-2A Czonka II contactor in the 204V upgrade
of Blue Meanie.
The third generation and a new model spin-off, is the little round white model
EV200AAANA, I
think this is the model that was found surplus? It's a nice compact little guy,
but having
seen one torn apart, I can tell you it isn't in the same league as the previous
Czonka and
Czonka II contactors. It's still a nice little contactor, but it's a lot more
light duty than
the other ones.
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I like to think about problems without preconceived notions of how they
have been solved before. Old solutions may not be a good fit in an EV.
What is the reason to have an RPM counter or tach? What are you going to
do with the information?
If it's an EV conversion, it already has a speedometer and odometer. Is
there a reason to change them?
If you want to know motor rpm, that is strictly a function of mph and
the gear ratio (except with an automatic transmission without a locking
torque converter). So, motor rpm can be computed from the speedometer
and gear you are in.
If all you want is an rpm limiter to prevent overspeeding, then it can
be inferred from the voltage and current fed to the motor. For an AC
motor, frequency is directly proportional to frequency (even for an
induction motor, slip is never more than a few percent). For a PM motor,
voltage is a good indicator of rpm, and gets especially accurate if you
also measure current so you can correct for the motor's effective
resistance. The relationship is more complex for a series motor, but
it's still straightforward to define the particular voltages and
currents that correspond to any given rpm.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> Re: What's a contactor controller? It could also be a series of
> contactors hooked to different points on a truck spring sized coil
> resistor. My 60's period Lehar Golf Cart had one of these.
Yes; that kind works well too. Since its efficiency is poor at anything
but full speed, they used this type for vehicles that spent most of
their time wide open or off.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Tony McCormick wrote:
>
> I haven't posted anything to this list in a long time, but I have a
> question that I figure only this audience can help me with.
>
> I smoked my 48volt prestolite motor the other day on the way home and
> now I've gotten to the last steps of pulling it out to be replaceed
> with a ADC 8". Only, I could use some tips on pulling the motor, I
> have unbolted the obvious stuff on the adapter plate and the carriage,
> but it seems to still be connected at the shaft. I don't what to 'pry'
> it apart unless that's what you are supposed to do (cars are like that
> sometimes). I can see two set screws in the 1/2" gap between the
> adapter plate and the tranny that go into the collar. I suspect that
> is the culprit, but they seem virtually impossible to get to with
> out some kind of special, long square head tool.
> Anyone do a replacement on an old Electric Leopard? Ideas?
The old Lectric Leopard kept the clutch and flywheel, so the motor just
pulled right out with the adapter plate, clutch, and flywheel all
attached. The splined shaft from the transmission pulled out of the
clutch disk.
--
"Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has!" -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you have all the bolts out of the adapter plate & motor mount the
motor should slide back easily. Hook up your engine puller, lift the
motor a little & it should slide back a couple inches as the
transmission input shaft clears the clutch disk. Push the clutch in a
little if it doesn't that should move the motor back about 1/4". The
transmission will tilt forward as you remove the motor.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Tony McCormick
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 3:33 PM
To: [email protected]; OEVA
Subject: pulling a original prestolite from an Renault
I haven't posted anything to this list in a long time, but I have a
question that I figure only this audience can help me with.
I smoked my 48volt prestolite motor the other day on the way home and
now I've gotten to the last steps of pulling it out to be replaceed
with a ADC 8". Only, I could use some tips on pulling the motor, I
have unbolted the obvious stuff on the adapter plate and the carriage,
but it seems to still be connected at the shaft. I don't what to 'pry'
it apart unless that's what you are supposed to do (cars are like that
sometimes). I can see two set screws in the 1/2" gap between the
adapter plate and the tranny that go into the collar. I suspect that is
the culprit, but they seem virtually impossible to get to with out some
kind of special, long square head tool.
Anyone do a replacement on an old Electric Leopard? Ideas?
--
Tony
Tigard, Or
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Subject: Shocking Information
A REWARD OF 500 MICROFARADS IS OFFERED FOR THE INFORMATION LEADING TO THE
ARREST OF HOP-A-LONG CAPACITY. THIS UNRECTIFIED CRIMINAL ESCAPED FROM A
WESTERN PRIMARY CELL WHERE HE HAD
BEEN CLAMPED IN IONS AWAITING THE GAUSS CHAMBER.
HE IS CHARGED WITH THE INDUCTION OF AN 18 TURN COIL NAMED MILLI HENRY WHO WAS
FOUND CHOKED AND ROBBED OF VALUABLE JOULES. HE IS ARMED WITH A CARBON ROD AND
IS A POTENTIAL KILLER. CAPACITY IS ALSO CHARGED WITH DRIVING DC MOTOR OVER A
WHEATSTONE BRIDGE AND REFUSING TO LET THE BAND-PASS.
IF ENCOUNTERED, HE MAY OFFER SERIES OF RESISTANCE. THE ELECTROMOTIVE FORCE
SPENT THE NIGHT SEARCHING FOR HIM IN A MAGNETIC FIELD, WHERE HE HAD GONE TO
EARTH. THEY HAD NO SUCCESS AND BELIEVED HE HAD RETURNED OHM VIA A SHORT CIRCUIT
HE WAS LAST SEEN RIDING A KILOCYCLE WITH HIS FRIEND EDDY CURRENT WHO WAS
PLAYING A HARMONIC.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Credit for the basic idea goes to Steve Clunn
(http://www.grassrootsev.com).
Steve's neat idea is to put a commercial taperlock hub on the
electric motor, spin it with the electric motor, and machine it to
the perfect size using the electric motor as the lathe. This also
guarantees a perfectly concentric hub, which generally means a more
on-center and balanced flywheel installation.
It's more work then you might guess to wrestle the electric motor
onto the lathe, get the working height right, get it centered, etc.
I was suddenly struck with the idea, why not bolt a mini machine shop
to the face of the motor?
You could get a Sherline or similar x-y (from a lathe or milling
machine), and bolt it to a frame that bolted to the face of the
electric motor. The electric motor would spin the taperlock, and the
x-y would accurately move the cutting tool. A refinement to the idea
would be to make the mounting adjustable, to allow adjustment to
align relative to the motor shaft axis.
You may even be able to machine your own flywheel this way, or one
piece flywheel/taperlock combo.
This is too much trouble for the home hobbyist doing a single
conversion, but could be handy for an EV parts business.
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail Mobile
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I know I could have used one of these on the 1990something Los Angeles
Clean Car Ralley. While Rodric Wilde and I were slurping down libations
on board the Queen Marry, in Long Beach Harbor, on the end of the second
day of 3 days of rallying, my car.. Ion-1 was in ( I think ) 5th place
over all out of 30 cars, which would have ment a SPOT in the Grand
Parade donw Disny Land Lane after the last day... BUT un-benonsed to
me, the GFCI had tripped on my charging circuit, and my car sat there
all night with only half a charge. The next day, of course, I only
finished half the rout, and in stead of being in the Grand Parade, was
getting a TOW back to the parking lot.
Now here is my question. IS THERE or Could there be... a GFCI which
after a few seconds, or a minute would RE-Set itself, assuming for a
moment, that the leakage path was not there any more... ???? And/OR
after 3 or more consecutive trips, would go into Manual Reset Only mode
for safety purposes.
In other words a Smart GFCI. What say you Lee ??
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
