EV Digest 4463
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Using old UPS as a battery charger
by "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Fwd: Re: Garden Tractor Conversion - Craftsman?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Garden Tractor Conversion - Craftsman?
by Jim Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) re: Silicon batteries Reply from China
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Using old UPS as a battery charger
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: things that get on your nerves
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Russco heaters.
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: List Meta Request
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Russco heaters.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) Re: State of Charge calculations
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Silicon batteries Reply from China
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Garden Tractor Conversion - ETEK - No Controller?
by Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Transaxle Weight?
by "Don Cameron" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Silicon batteries Reply from China
by Michael Hurley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) RE: Using old UPS as a battery charger
by "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Evercel high rate discharge
by john bart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Garden Tractor Conversion - ETEK - No Controller?
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Using old UPS as a battery charger
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Using old UPS as a battery charger
by "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Transaxle Weight?
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Transaxle Weight?
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: acceleration problem/help
by TiM M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: bilge pumps - coolants
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
32) Re: acceleration problem/help
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
HI,
I searched all my old e-mails from the list and couldn't find anything
specifically dealing with this.
I have several old APC UPS backups which have 24v of batteries onboard.
I already use one as a 24v battery charger as well as hooking it up to a
much bigger pack of 24v batteries and using it as an inverter. I was
wondering if I could somehow series several of the UPS's together to get
to a higher voltage. They are all exactly the same unit so all have the
same specs.
Is this possible?
Thanks!
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Brown
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Mark Hastings <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Which I gave away to a good EVer home before the move out of my house in CT.
Missed my chance. I'm in CT and looking to convert my tractor in the fall,
between mowing and snow
throwing seasons.
> I was looking at 2 eteks because the smaller HP motors are almost the same
> price and the D&D
> motors are high cost and too overpowered. One motor to move and one motor for
> the blades. I
> guess I could try one motor overall but I think using all the existing belts
> would be too big a
> loss. Sure would make it a really quick conversion though.
I'm hoping to replace the ICE with an electric directly, keep the belt drive
and all. I'd be real
interested in knowing what you ultimately use. I would be replacing a 20 hp gas
engine that has to
drive the hydrostatic drive, the mowing deck including a blower for the bagger,
and a snow thrower
in the winter. I have a Curse-it controller I hope to use. Electrons provide by
as many NiCads as
I can fit.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,
I have an old Sears 12 HP tractor with a 2 hp (AC) motor on
it (see EV album). It goes really great. I tow cars etc
with it with super results, unfortunately I can't get the
mower to work because the space on the mower to mount the
motor doesn't have enough room. My 1/2 HP motor is too small
power wise but too big physically.
Jim Phillips
Iowa City, Iowa
Mark Hastings wrote:
The craftman tractor my father gave me died. The repair bill is at minimum half the cost
of new one so I was thinking of converting it to electric. It was a 15.5hp automatic
with a 2 blade 42" deck. I only need to mow 3/4" an acre of lawn.
I have some money invested in a new bagger for it so if I'm not in too big a
hole starting with a tractor rather then a riding mower i'd rather do that
since the tractor, bagger and mulching kit are free. I have looked online at
some riding mower conversions but besides the electrak I(not a conversion I
know) haven't seen a tractor. The riding mowers look like they use 3hp for
moving and 1hp each blade. I don't think I should need much more then that as
or is a tractor that much different?
Thanks,
Mark Hastings
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 6:07 AM -0700 on 6/29/05, Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
Following is and email I recieved from China on the
price of these batteries:
Thanks for your email 28/1/05.
We still haven't any agent or distributor in United
States, if you have any request of our products, you
can direct
order from us.
If you are looking the battery for electric cars or
scooters, that is our Power Battery. For your
information, our
Powe Batteries 12V12AH for Scooters & 12V20AH for
electric motorcycles are common used for manufactures
in China, they selling in China market and export to
USA and EU. Our 12V33AH for electric cars are using by
one Germany company for their Three-Wheeler Electric
cars.
Reference Price: US$0.16- US$0.18 per V/AH FOB China
Port.
Minimum order: One 20' containeer
Delivery: within 90 days after confirmed order.
Payment: By Irrevocable Letter of Credit in our
favour.
So that would be $23.04 - $25.92 per 12V, 12AH module; $38.40 -
$43.20 per 12V, 20AH module and $63.36 - $71.28 per 12V, 33AH module
correct? Plus shipping, of course, and a cargo container holds a hell
of a lot of batteries. What are the dimensions of the modules?
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in
sort of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand
naked women screaming and throwing little pickles
at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
- Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/29/05, Brown, Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have several old APC UPS backups which have 24v of batteries onboard.
> I already use one as a 24v battery charger as well as hooking it up to a
> much bigger pack of 24v batteries and using it as an inverter. I was
> wondering if I could somehow series several of the UPS's together to get
> to a higher voltage.
Yes, you could (first check that the batteries are isolated from the
AC output, some are not), but why would you want a higher output
voltage?
In general, they make rather poor inverters for general use. Poor
efficiency, often non-sine wave, and are not built for continuous
operation from batteries (they overheat).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6/29/05, reb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> hi evan
> thanks for the address
> nothing major wrong with the reva
> the diff casing leaks oil - i don't know the torque
> settings or what oil it takes (90 probably)
Hope the address still works. If not, I'm sure a search for "Prasad"
"Reva" will find him.
> it would be nice to turn the irksome chime off that
> operates every two seconds when you open the doors,put
> the handbrake on etc
Aha, my Berlingo did that - until I pulled out the yellow relay shaped
thing from the fuse box - that was the sounder :)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am using a Pondmaster 70 pump. It's designed to run for ever in the
bottom of a pond. It's VERY quite, not silent but not the clatter grind that
Gp has now. Gp's pump is 12 volts, and this is a good thing.
But silent and powerfull is what we are all looking for.
The 12 volt water cooled PC CPU coolers are good stuff, but a bit over
priced. I have done very little research on them.
I need to get the best on I can find and beat the tar out of it.
Keep in mind the Gone Postal has 4 inline items.. the pump the tranny
cooler radiator the Front Zilla the back Zilla and a now my PFC40L water
cooled charger, and about 20 feet of 3/8 ID tubing. I installed the new hose
as reinforced tygon that is used for hot water feed for sinks and showers.
So it is tough and good for hot water and high pressure. Even with all the
restrictions the Current Gp pump shoots the cooling water across the recover
tank. So.. it works darn good, but is way too noisey for me. So it's not
coming out until I have a better idea. The Pond master is 120 VAC needing a
inverter to power it.. That's a major hassel.
Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that works good in a closed
system? My stuff rotted and was turning into slime. Rude smells are NOT part
of the EV experience.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Farver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 7:19 AM
Subject: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
> Ryan Stotts wrote:
>
> >Roger Stockton wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>Zilla cooling
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >>popular route using a submersible aquarium pump; not sure why more
> >>people don't use readily available submersible 12V bilge pumps
> >>instead...
> >>
> >>
> Bilge pumps are usually designed for greater flow rates than the zilla
> requires. The pumps also tend to be noisy and power hungry. The
> aquarium pumps while requiring a small inverter (small 25 watt inverters
> are available for about $20 at walmart) are much quieter, use very
> little power and run forever. The maxjet? pump otmar recommends is
> nearly completely inaudible.. in the garage with everything else off it
> can just be heard as a almost inperceptible 60hz hum in the car.
>
> Mark
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Russ Kaufmann wrote:
> And then Russco got tired of being a plumber and became charger man.
> Tomorrow, controller man.
AC or DC...?
(any details?)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 08:47 AM 6/29/2005, Rich Rudman wrote:
Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that works good in a closed
system? My stuff rotted and was turning into slime. Rude smells are NOT part
of the EV experience.
There is the stuff for waterbeds. Don't know how it handles hi-temp though.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich,
Try Swiftech Mag Drive Pumps 12V & very quiet. I use the ECO friendly
Auto coolant And it works without growing stuff.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Rich Rudman
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 8:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
I am using a Pondmaster 70 pump. It's designed to run for ever in the
bottom of a pond. It's VERY quite, not silent but not the clatter grind
that
Gp has now. Gp's pump is 12 volts, and this is a good thing.
But silent and powerfull is what we are all looking for.
The 12 volt water cooled PC CPU coolers are good stuff, but a bit
over
priced. I have done very little research on them.
I need to get the best on I can find and beat the tar out of it.
Keep in mind the Gone Postal has 4 inline items.. the pump the
tranny
cooler radiator the Front Zilla the back Zilla and a now my PFC40L water
cooled charger, and about 20 feet of 3/8 ID tubing. I installed the new
hose
as reinforced tygon that is used for hot water feed for sinks and
showers.
So it is tough and good for hot water and high pressure. Even with all
the
restrictions the Current Gp pump shoots the cooling water across the
recover
tank. So.. it works darn good, but is way too noisey for me. So it's not
coming out until I have a better idea. The Pond master is 120 VAC
needing a
inverter to power it.. That's a major hassel.
Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that works good in a closed
system? My stuff rotted and was turning into slime. Rude smells are NOT
part
of the EV experience.
Madman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Farver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 7:19 AM
Subject: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
> Ryan Stotts wrote:
>
> >Roger Stockton wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>Zilla cooling
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >>popular route using a submersible aquarium pump; not sure why more
> >>people don't use readily available submersible 12V bilge pumps
> >>instead...
> >>
> >>
> Bilge pumps are usually designed for greater flow rates than the zilla
> requires. The pumps also tend to be noisy and power hungry. The
> aquarium pumps while requiring a small inverter (small 25 watt
inverters
> are available for about $20 at walmart) are much quieter, use very
> little power and run forever. The maxjet? pump otmar recommends is
> nearly completely inaudible.. in the garage with everything else off
it
> can just be heard as a almost inperceptible 60hz hum in the car.
>
> Mark
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I use the ECO friendly non toxic automotive coolant with no problems.
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John G. Lussmyer
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:13 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
At 08:47 AM 6/29/2005, Rich Rudman wrote:
>Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that works good in a closed
>system? My stuff rotted and was turning into slime. Rude smells are NOT
part
>of the EV experience.
There is the stuff for waterbeds. Don't know how it handles hi-temp
though.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Change the all the list-posters to suit your mail program? ahhh, nice to
be centre of the world! ;-)
The only problem with your suggestion is that the context of the note is
lost when a thread spawns new ideas.
Perhaps you can check into fixing your mail program or use another program -
much easier than changing the ways of hundreds of people. I, for one, like
the current method and often take advantage of it.
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: June 29, 2005 7:32 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: List Meta Request
I'd like to humbly propose that if you wish to start a new topic on the list
that it be done by creating an entirely new message, and NOT by replying to
an existing message and changing the subject line.
In mail programs that handle threading properly (most these days, though not
turned on by default), these new messages are listed as replies in the
thread, and appear (inappropriately) in the wrong thread tree.
A recent example (not to single anyone out, as there are multiple
instances) is the "Re: Welding on the cheap, part 3, High Frequency"
thread that appeared on 6/24. The 2nd reply in this thread is titled
"Re:acceleration problem/help". The header of that message specifically
references the message it appears to be a reply to; additionally, it even
quotes the welding email.
As it is, if I had had no interest in the welding thread, I wouldn't have
even seen the new question, as it would have been "folded away"
under the welding title. Conversely, I can't offer help with this problem,
and it is cluttering up the welding discussion.
-- Eric
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Russ,
Did you mean yesterday, controller man? I have a Russco controller that
you built quite a few years ago.
Gail
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> And then Russco got tired of being a plumber and became charger man.
> Tomorrow, controller man.
>
> Russ Kaufmann
> RUSSCO Engineering
> The Other PFC Charger With GFCI
> Relocating to Grants Pass, Oregon
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So, is the AH used as simple as P(A) (peukerts function of amps) over
time? (assuming you have high enough resolution) I was going to do my
own data logging; I have a bit of electronics experience.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A 20' container is 20 ft long by 8 ft wide x 8.5 ft high, 1360 cu ft, but for
batteries it would be the payload - the container Rating minus the Tare Mass,
about (24,000 kgs - 2,000 kg) 22,000 kgs.
According to the specs in the orig email, the batteries weigh from 15 to 40 kg,
so there could be anywhere from 1466 - 15 kg batteries to 550 - 40 kg batteries.
Assuming, and we all know what a bit#% that can be, that the 40 kg bats are the
12V33AH, that means that a 20 ft container would cost (1466 * $23.04) $33,776
for the small bats, and (550 * $71.28) $39,204 for the large bats plus
shipping.
Obviously all the above numbers need more verification, they are just ballpark
numbers, even the container payload depends on the particular container.
Are we willing to chip in?
Who wants the responsibility and headaches associated with being the 'home
depot'?
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Hurley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: re: Silicon batteries Reply from China
> At 6:07 AM -0700 on 6/29/05, Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
>>Following is and email I recieved from China on the
>>price of these batteries:
>>
>>Thanks for your email 28/1/05.
>>
>>We still haven't any agent or distributor in United
>>States, if you have any request of our products, you
>>can direct
>>order from us.
>>
>>If you are looking the battery for electric cars or
>>scooters, that is our Power Battery. For your
>>information, our
>>Powe Batteries 12V12AH for Scooters & 12V20AH for
>>electric motorcycles are common used for manufactures
>>in China, they selling in China market and export to
>>USA and EU. Our 12V33AH for electric cars are using by
>>one Germany company for their Three-Wheeler Electric
>>cars.
>>
>>Reference Price: US$0.16- US$0.18 per V/AH FOB China
>>Port.
>>Minimum order: One 20' containeer
>>Delivery: within 90 days after confirmed order.
>>Payment: By Irrevocable Letter of Credit in our
>>favour.
>
> So that would be $23.04 - $25.92 per 12V, 12AH module; $38.40 -
> $43.20 per 12V, 20AH module and $63.36 - $71.28 per 12V, 33AH module
> correct? Plus shipping, of course, and a cargo container holds a hell
> of a lot of batteries. What are the dimensions of the modules?
> --
>
>
> Auf wiedersehen!
> ______________________________________________________
> "..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
>
> "Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in
> sort of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand
> naked women screaming and throwing little pickles
> at you?"
>
> "..No."
>
> "Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
> - Real Genius
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I think I will lean in the single motor replacing the ICE at least as an
initial go. I already have two ETEKS sitting around and maybe one minor success
with the tractor will get me moving on my cabinscooter more, plus $80 to pay
every time the lawn is mowed it a bunch.
My question is since I'll be doing this do I need a controller? The PM motor
self limits the RPM and when I turn it on there will be only a minor load since
nothing will be engaged. I guess I will have to tie into or make some kind of
switch so you can't turn on or off except in an emergency if you have the
blades on.
Just seems a waste to get a controller to run at one speed.
Thanks,
Mark Hastings
I'm hoping to replace the ICE with an electric directly, keep the belt drive
and all. I'd be real
interested in knowing what you ultimately use. I would be replacing a 20 hp gas
engine that has to
drive the hydrostatic drive, the mowing deck including a blower for the bagger,
and a snow thrower
in the winter. I have a Curse-it controller I hope to use. Electrons provide by
as many NiCads as
I can fit.
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Check with the stores that sell waterbeds. They have several products that
stop water growing scum.
David C Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"The Bush administration's priorities are "a little bit different now
and veterans aren't a priority,"
Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that works good in a closed
system? My stuff rotted and was turning into slime. Rude smells are NOT part
of the EV experience.
Madman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Farver [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Bilge pumps are usually designed for greater flow rates than
> the zilla requires. The pumps also tend to be noisy and power
> hungry.
The power hungry part at least is urban myth. The actual numbers posted
earlier in this thread quite clearly show that the power consumption is
essentially identical between the smallest 12V pumps and a 120VAC
aquarium pump + inverter, even if the inverter operates at 90%
efficiency and the aquarium pump achieves its rated efficiency despite
running off a modified sine wave.
So, for similar power draw off the 12V line, the bilge pump moves about
2x as much water; this makes it about 2x as efficient as the inverter +
pump alternative. Flow rate decreases as the voltage applied to the
bilge pump is reduced (again, see the numbers posted earlier for flow
rates at 13.6V and 12.2V), so if noise is a real concern use an LM317
(adjustable voltage regulator, for those who may not recognise the part
#) between the pump and the 12V rail and adjust the voltage down until
the noise and flow rate are acceptable. A happy coincidence is that the
current draw of the bilge pump drops with reduced supply voltage so that
if one were to reduce the supply voltage until the flow rate were
comparable to that of the aquarium pump, the bilge pump would likely be
drawing about 1/2 the power from the 12V system as the inverter+AC pump
combo.
If the Zilla has an output to control the pump or to signal an
[impending?] overtemp condition, this could be used to control the
supply voltage to the bilge pump via the LM317 such that the pump runs
quietly on reduced voltage normally but wakes up and pushes lots of
water when required.
To each his own, however...
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yea the Proplyene Glycol Sierra anit freeze that Rod. Has in Gp, showed no
signs of ferment.... straight water and a month in the Seattle weather...
and I had some nasty stuff.
Rich Rudman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
> I use the ECO friendly non toxic automotive coolant with no problems.
>
> Pat
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of John G. Lussmyer
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:13 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs? Anyone?
>
> At 08:47 AM 6/29/2005, Rich Rudman wrote:
> >Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that works good in a closed
> >system? My stuff rotted and was turning into slime. Rude smells are NOT
> part
> >of the EV experience.
>
> There is the stuff for waterbeds. Don't know how it handles hi-temp
> though.
>
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
> http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been researching how I want to connect the motor to the wheels for
this new sports car I am building.
It must be independent suspension, lightweight and have a very ratios
available for it (at least 4.3:1)
Two options are a direct drive to a lightweight rear differential or use a
lightweight transaxle.
1) For light differentials, there is the Mazda Miata and the R160 from
Datsun 510s and Subarus. These weight approx 50-70lbs.
2) As for a transaxle, I was thinking the Geo Metro.
Does anyone know the actual weight of a Geo Metro transaxle?
Any suggestions for other suitable lightweight transaxles out there?
thanks
Don
Victoria, BC, Canada
See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at
www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 9:35 AM -0700 on 6/29/05, Rush wrote:
A 20' container is 20 ft long by 8 ft wide x 8.5 ft high, 1360 cu
ft, but for batteries it would be the payload - the container Rating
minus the Tare Mass, about (24,000 kgs - 2,000 kg) 22,000 kgs.
According to the specs in the orig email, the batteries weigh from
15 to 40 kg, so there could be anywhere from 1466 - 15 kg batteries
to 550 - 40 kg batteries.
Ah. I must have missed the original message. Thanks!
Assuming, and we all know what a bit#% that can be, that the 40 kg
bats are the 12V33AH, that means that a 20 ft container would cost
(1466 * $23.04) $33,776 for the small bats, and (550 * $71.28)
$39,204 for the large bats plus shipping.
Obviously all the above numbers need more verification, they are
just ballpark numbers, even the container payload depends on the
particular container.
Are we willing to chip in?
What do we know about these batteries? Charging algorithms, lifespan,
Peukert-like effects, etc? These may have already been discussed. If
they have please ignore me. Once I'm home I'll be able to find the
messages in my archive.
40 kilos is awfully heavy for a 33AH battery. That's almost 90 pounds!
--
Auf wiedersehen!
______________________________________________________
"..Um..Something strange happened to me this morning."
"Was it a dream where you see yourself standing in
sort of Sun God robes on a pyramid with a thousand
naked women screaming and throwing little pickles
at you?"
"..No."
"Why am I the only person that has that dream?"
- Real Genius
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the response.
I would like to build a 48v charger for my 48v go-kart and dirt bike
that I converted. I'm getting tired of having to break the pack to two
24v packs for charging. It would be nice to be able to just plug it in
and walk away. Then of course the obvious next thought was how many of
these could I string together if I had something with an even higher
voltage pack. I have access to a couple more for just shy of free.
Thanks,
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Evan Tuer
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 10:48 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Using old UPS as a battery charger
On 6/29/05, Brown, Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have several old APC UPS backups which have 24v of batteries
onboard.
> I already use one as a 24v battery charger as well as hooking it up to
a
> much bigger pack of 24v batteries and using it as an inverter. I was
> wondering if I could somehow series several of the UPS's together to
get
> to a higher voltage.
Yes, you could (first check that the batteries are isolated from the
AC output, some are not), but why would you want a higher output
voltage?
In general, they make rather poor inverters for general use. Poor
efficiency, often non-sine wave, and are not built for continuous
operation from batteries (they overheat).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> If the Zilla has an output to control the pump or to signal an
> [impending?] overtemp condition, this could be used to control the
> supply voltage to the bilge pump via the LM317 such that the pump runs
> quietly on reduced voltage normally but wakes up and pushes lots of
> water when required.
>
Taking this one step further, what about failure modes? If you have a
complicated system and
something dies, does your pump shut down? And then your controller overheats
because it failed on
the hottest day of the year in the middle of the desert.
If you run a 12 volt pump (off your dc-dc with a 12 volt battery), you should
still have 12 volts
to run the pump for a while. This would help you get home with any number of
dead components.
"Certainty of death, little chance of success, what are we waiting for?"
Gimli the dwarf
Thanks
Dave cover
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--- Begin Message ---
My friends and I are converting a 1980 VW Scirocco into a drag racer at our
school here in chicago, IIT. We were fortunate enough to come across 24
evercel mb80-12 batteries which are the 64 amp/hour models. Special thanks to
Tom Hudson who was very generous in donating these to our sae program. On the
voltage forum im being told these batteries will not work for high current
discharge because the plastic plates will melt. I have known that evercels are
not meant for high current continous discharge, but at 15 second high current
discharges during actual racing, will this still cause them to heat up quickly
enough and melt?
We were planning on a cooling unit of some sort for these if that is what it
would take for them to work for our application. Its only a theory, if we
constructed the battery boxes our of aluminum and sealed the boxes off and were
able to refridgerate the batteries with some sort of surplus refridgeration
unit, will this not help?
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark Hastings wrote:
I think I will lean in the single motor replacing the ICE at least as an
initial go. I already have two ETEKS sitting around and maybe one minor success
with the tractor will get me moving on my cabinscooter more, plus $80 to pay
every time the lawn is mowed it a bunch.
My question is since I'll be doing this do I need a controller? The PM motor
self limits the RPM and when I turn it on there will be only a minor load since
nothing will be engaged. I guess I will have to tie into or make some kind of
switch so you can't turn on or off except in an emergency if you have the
blades on.
Just seems a waste to get a controller to run at one speed.
Good point on the controller. Technically speaking I ran my Craftsman
tractor at one motor speed: Full. And that was with a manual
transmission; if you have a hydrostatic one I really can't see much of a
reson for throttle off the bat.
One 36v contactor with a dropot tied to a relay and the seat switch,
kind of like an E8M tractor. Make it so the tractor motor will stop if
the seat is un-occupied and will not come back on till you turn the key
to off and on.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Oh I see, you meant put the inputs in series, on a connected string of
batteries? Yes, again I think that's possible as long as they are
isolated. But another proviso is that they often don't make
particularly good chargers either - if you're doing this to save money
you may find your battery pack dies a bit earlier.
On 6/29/05, Brown, Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks for the response.
>
> I would like to build a 48v charger for my 48v go-kart and dirt bike
> that I converted. I'm getting tired of having to break the pack to two
> 24v packs for charging. It would be nice to be able to just plug it in
> and walk away. Then of course the obvious next thought was how many of
> these could I string together if I had something with an even higher
> voltage pack. I have access to a couple more for just shy of free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Damn, there is always a downside...
Thanks again for the reply.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Evan Tuer
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 12:42 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Using old UPS as a battery charger
Oh I see, you meant put the inputs in series, on a connected string of
batteries? Yes, again I think that's possible as long as they are
isolated. But another proviso is that they often don't make
particularly good chargers either - if you're doing this to save money
you may find your battery pack dies a bit earlier.
On 6/29/05, Brown, Jay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks for the response.
>
> I would like to build a 48v charger for my 48v go-kart and dirt bike
> that I converted. I'm getting tired of having to break the pack to
two
> 24v packs for charging. It would be nice to be able to just plug it
in
> and walk away. Then of course the obvious next thought was how many
of
> these could I string together if I had something with an even higher
> voltage pack. I have access to a couple more for just shy of free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:13 AM -0700 6/29/05, Don Cameron wrote:
I have been researching how I want to connect the motor to the wheels for
this new sports car I am building.
It must be independent suspension, lightweight and have a very ratios
available for it (at least 4.3:1)
Two options are a direct drive to a lightweight rear differential or use a
lightweight transaxle.
1) For light differentials, there is the Mazda Miata and the R160 from
Datsun 510s and Subarus. These weight approx 50-70lbs.
2) As for a transaxle, I was thinking the Geo Metro.
Does anyone know the actual weight of a Geo Metro transaxle?
Hi Don,
I weighed a 1987 Chevy Sprint transaxle back 1991. (very similar to
Geo Metro) I seem to recall it weighed 61 lbs. Back then notes were
in paper so I don't have it here (they are deep in the attic in case
you need it accurately). I'd say I'm 95% sure it was within 8 lbs of
that.
The Porsche 914 transaxle which is certainly heavier weighs 87 lbs.
For reference the gen 1 GM EV-1 reduction gear and differential in
case weigh about 50 to 60 lbs.
I suggest using a transverse transaxle if possible since they are
more efficient than the 90 degree angle drive in most standard
differentials.
hth,
--
-Otmar-
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla.
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For a race car, you'll want to be sure to get one with limited slip.
Not many FWD trannies come with a LSD, but I know some Honda guys in
my autocross club have added aftermarket LSD.
--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have been researching how I want to connect the motor to the
> wheels for
> this new sports car I am building.
>
> It must be independent suspension, lightweight and have a very
> ratios
> available for it (at least 4.3:1)
>
> Two options are a direct drive to a lightweight rear differential
> or use a
> lightweight transaxle.
>
> 1) For light differentials, there is the Mazda Miata and the R160
> from
> Datsun 510s and Subarus. These weight approx 50-70lbs.
>
> 2) As for a transaxle, I was thinking the Geo Metro.
>
> Does anyone know the actual weight of a Geo Metro transaxle?
>
> Any suggestions for other suitable lightweight transaxles out
> there?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had a similar problem with my truck. It turned
out to be a combination of a weak 12V battery (no
DC/DC) and poor connections in the control wiring. The
main contactor was controlled by the micro switch on
the pot box. The voltage at the contactor was under
11V and that was borderline to get it to pull in.
Hitting and releaseing the pedal a few times go it to
go. Once I figured out what the problem was I replaced
the 12V battery and most of the 12V control wiring.
That solved the problem for me.
TiM
____________________________________________________
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The Sierra anti freeze is great stuff. I've had it in
the cooling systems of my machines and my big buses
with no signs of muck. It's also recommended in
systems with lot's of disimilar metals. Like copper
(Zilla) and an aluminum coolers. It's also a lot less
toxic if you have animals.
Gadget
--- Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yea the Proplyene Glycol Sierra anit freeze that
> Rod. Has in Gp, showed no
> signs of ferment.... straight water and a month in
> the Seattle weather...
> and I had some nasty stuff.
>
> Rich Rudman
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sweeney, John P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:19 AM
> Subject: RE: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs?
> Anyone?
>
>
> > I use the ECO friendly non toxic automotive
> coolant with no problems.
> >
> > Pat
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> > Behalf Of John G. Lussmyer
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:13 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: bilge pumps was Taper Lock Specs?
> Anyone?
> >
> > At 08:47 AM 6/29/2005, Rich Rudman wrote:
> > >Oh yea anybody know of a mold alge killer that
> works good in a closed
> > >system? My stuff rotted and was turning into
> slime. Rude smells are NOT
> > part
> > >of the EV experience.
> >
> > There is the stuff for waterbeds. Don't know how
> it handles hi-temp
> > though.
> >
> > --
> > John G. Lussmyer
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
> > http://www.CasaDelGato.com
> >
>
>
visit my website at www.reverendgadget.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The wiring from the pot terminals to the controller terminals where this
pot is connected to it. Each wire of course should read near zero ohm.
A meeter in beeper mode should beep.
If the wires are OK, put the meter in resistance measure mode and check
the pot: one lead to the wiper terminal and the other lead - to any other
terminal of the pot. Slowly rotete the pot and resistance must gradually
change without jumps to infinity.
Victor
Rush wrote:
Victor,
When you say ohm the wiring, how is that done? what should the meter read? what
wires should be tested?
Thanks
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: acceleration problem/help
Bad (worn) accelerator pot or loose connection to it.
Ohm the wiring and/or replace the pot to test this suspicion.
Victor
john wrote:
I recently purchased a 1985 Dodge ram conversion. When I take off it goes
just fine but when I stop and start again sometimes it will not go. I need
to pump the accelerator about 4 times then it takes off. Any ideas of why
this is happening? I'm a newbie so need some guidance. It has an Auburn
C600 DC controller, Advanced D.C. motor FB1-4001 with a 144 batt pack.
I'm thinking it may also be the potbox..??
Thanks for any help John Barnes
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
