EV Digest 4564
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: A/C motor problems
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: What to do with excess regen power
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Performance of stock ICE automobiles
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: A/C motor problems
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: A/C motor problems
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: What to do with excess regen power
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Re: Newbie
by Brad E Jensen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Zebra Batteries - Update
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: charging fumes in garage
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Newbie - virus notification
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: A/C motor problems
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Zebra Batteries - Update
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Hall-Effect tach sensor for Zilla
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Source of used EV parts
by Stefano Landi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Enthusiastic newby looking for good advice
by Chip Sandy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Source of used EV parts
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Enthusiastic newby looking for good advice
by Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Newbie
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: A/C motor problems
by "August Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Enthusiastic newby looking for good advice
by "Sharon Hoopes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Prius Conversion?
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) AGM Batteries @low cost
by "Gabriel Alarcon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: AGM Batteries @low cost
by Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Hall-Effect tach sensor for Zilla
by "Philip Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: 96v Voltsrabbit vs 26 Exides or Optimas for a Wayout Rabbit.
by "Grannes, Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Personal Interest (now with more hybrid truck talk!)
by Nick Viera <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
No, it will not be 9 pin copmputer style D-type connector!
It is likely round sealed connector with 5-6 pins.
Similar to one on the motor side - with screw on outer ring.
Do you see any wiring coming out of the motors other than
thick cables to all 3 phases?
Victor
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thank you Victor. I'm going to double check those tonight to make sure they
are correctly connected. I believe that is a 9 pin serial port connector into
the controller. I thought I had those connected correctly, but I will double
check again.
Jeff
-------------- Original message --------------
Jeff,
Please make sure the rotor encoders (shaft speed sensors) are
hooked up. Else you will always see symptoms you observe now.
Victor
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think so. The motor controllers have color coded connectors and the
motors have like connections. They are red white and blue. So I think they
should be OK. Victor and Jim both suggested (late last night) that I try
switching any two wires on each motor to change the phase. I haven't tried
it yet, but will tonight after I get home.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 10:39 AM 8/9/2005, you wrote:
On 7 Aug 2005 at 22:15, Ken Trough wrote:
> It seems like regen is a liability in an EV ...
Surely you must have driven an EV with regen. I'm surprised you view it
that way. The first time I experienced regen, I decided it was worth quite
a bit of effort.
I agree though that trying to implement regen with a series motor is kind of
like trying to teach a cat to fetch. It's possible, but there's some
question as to whether the results are really worth the effort.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
With cats there is always the question of who is training whom.
Are any of the companies building the hybrid cars working on some AI system
so the car can learn your driving patterns?
Like Monday-Friday you almost always go down this big hill, the computer
can then use more energy then normal out of the battery before the hill so
that there is room for the regen. All it should take is a GPS.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In the interest of promoting reasonable expectations of EV performance...
I have no idea if the data is accurate, but this page gives a good idea of
how well normal (unmodified) ICE cars perform, 0-60 and 1/4mi:
http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/0-60times.html
--chris
Peter VanDerWal said:
> Hmm yes you can build a vehicle that meets these specs, but it's not going
> to be cheap.
>
> You want sports car performance (the vast majority of vehicles on the road
> can't do 0-60 in 9 seconds let alone 7-8) and you want fairly long range
> (60+ miles).
> Challenging, but doable.
>
> If you are going to use Lead-Acid batteries you'll need about 1/2 the
> total vehicle weight in batteries to make the range. You'll need advanced
> Lead-Acid (Optima YTs or Orbital XCDs) and a powerfull controller to get
> that kind of performance in a conversion.
> You'd want to use a fairly lightweight aerodynamic vehicle to start with,
> Porsche 914, Carmen Ghia, Honda CRX, etc.
>
> The other option is to go with a custom built, very lightweight,
> aerodynamic vehicle with a moderate powered controller and still at least
> 50% battery weight.
>
> Or spend tons of money on LiIon batteries and UltraCaps ;-).
>
>> My other main concern is keeping up with relatively fast
>> paced traffic, as I live in an area were you're likely to get run off
>> the
>> road at speeds lower than 70 MPH. If I were to go the EV route, I would
>> need something that could accelerate quickly (preferrably 0-60 in 7-8
>> seconds) and be able to hit a top speed of 75-80 MPH. It would also have
>> to make my 13 mile (one way) daily commute with some power to spare for
>> lunch breaks and running errands after work. I mostly stay local, but
>> every now and then make a trip to my hometown which is about 50 miles
>> away, While I would more than likely keep my current gas car for these
>> trips, I'd like to know if it's possible for an EV !
>> to make t
>> y requirements feasable, or am I asking to much from my desired EV? As
>> this list seems to be the best collection of real knowledge that I've
>> come
>> across, I was hoping to "pick some brains" and hopefully end my
>> confusion.
>> I thank you all (in advance) for your tollorance, and hope to hear back
>> soon.
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 9 Aug 2005 at 11:11, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> No, it will not be 9 pin copmputer style D-type connector!
My Brusa AMC-320 (AKA Solectria AC-320) does indeed use a DB-9 for the motor
speed sensor. The AMC-300 has a dual inline header connector, IIRC.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Do you see any wiring coming out of the motors other than
> thick cables to all 3 phases?
>
> Victor
>From the controllers, there is the 25 pin connector, a 9 pin connector, and
>the 3 phase power connectors on one side and on the other is the main + and -
>cables, a small wire to the fans and then one other 2 wire connector that
>looks like a 12 v power feed.
This is one side. The main power and two other wires, one to the fan the other
is a two wire connection but I cannot tell what it connects to. I'm going to
have to look for that. It is probably my problem!
_________________
| + |
| - o o |
|_________________|
This is the other side. It has the 3 phase power leads and the 25 pin and 9
pin connectors. Those are obvious connections as they are all marked on the
connectors with markers to tell what connects to what.
__________________
| 1 |
| o o 2 |
|________________3_|
I hope this helps and you can understand the pictures.
I know there is a temp sensor on the motor and also another wire coming out of
the back of the motor from behind a thin plate. I'm guessing that is the speed
sensor. I will have to double check, but I thought that was the 9 pin wire.
I'm not sure at this point till I get home to recheck.
Jeff
-------------- Original message --------------
> No, it will not be 9 pin copmputer style D-type connector!
>
> It is likely round sealed connector with 5-6 pins.
> Similar to one on the motor side - with screw on outer ring.
>
> Do you see any wiring coming out of the motors other than
> thick cables to all 3 phases?
>
> Victor
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Thank you Victor. I'm going to double check those tonight to make sure they
> are correctly connected. I believe that is a 9 pin serial port connector into
> the controller. I thought I had those connected correctly, but I will double
> check again.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> >
> >>Jeff,
> >>
> >>Please make sure the rotor encoders (shaft speed sensors) are
> >>hooked up. Else you will always see symptoms you observe now.
> >>
> >>Victor
> >>
> >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >>
> >>>I think so. The motor controllers have color coded connectors and the
> >>>motors have like connections. They are red white and blue. So I think they
> >>>should be OK. Victor and Jim both suggested (late last night) that I try
> >>>switching any two wires on each motor to change the phase. I haven't tried
> >>>it yet, but will tonight after I get home.
> >>
>
> --
> Victor
> '91 ACRX - something different
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
<<<<
Surely you must have driven an EV with regen. I'm surprised you view it
that way. The first time I experienced regen, I decided it was worth quite
a bit of effort.
I agree though that trying to implement regen with a series motor is kind of
like trying to teach a cat to fetch. It's possible, but there's some
question as to whether the results are really worth the effort.
>>>>
Regen seems to be pretty easy to impliment if you're running a bldc, AC, PM, or
SepEx system (i.e. just about any *other* motor design!), but has anyone gotten
dependable use from the ZAPI or Curtis series controllers with regen (e.g.
1221R)?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Peter,
Thanks for the tips. It looks like the hybrid battery option is out since I
don't have that kind of money (10packs X 500 = $5000 more than I paid for the
truck)
I saw someone else who had used a rabbit for a pusher trailer (not a diesel)
and it seemed to work well, but the rabbit is also rather uncommon here too.
I was also hoping to create something that would fit in the bed of the truck -
sort of like a fifth wheel camper (part of it in the truck; not the wheels
obviously). That would have to be a rear-engine vehicle. That might be
dreaming, but I am going to pursue it anyway.
I will see if I can turn off the virus notification. I am using a free version
of an anti-virus software, so I might not have that option. I think I can turn
off the outgoing scanning entirely. Since it is way at the bottom of the
message and isn't very overwhelming, it has never been a problem with any other
lists that I am a member of. You are the first person to even notice it.
Sorry, it was not intended to offend/ annoy.
-- Brad
Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My name is Brad Jensen and I am the proud new owner of 3 1998 Ford Ranger
> Evs.
-snip-
> I am interested in using more reliable batteries such as those in the
> hybrids.
> Has anyone done a battery transplant from a hybrid? I can imagine that
> they are more complicated than they look. The seem to be selling on
> e-bay for about $500.
Might work, but you'll need a whole bunch of them. Probably at least 10
packs for any decent range. You'll probably also have to
reprogram/replace the motor controller and/or charger in the Rangers. I
think they're programed specifically for the type of batteries they used.
> Another project I am interested in is building a grease car pusher trailer
> for my Ranger. I was thinking of using the back end of a diesel vanagon.
> Anyone have any tips? Vanagons are hard to find here in Michigan.
You might consider using the front end from a Diesel rabbit. Diesel
vanagons were pretty rare, the rabbits were much more common.
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.0/63 - Release Date: 8/3/2005
P.S. Please turn off the virus notification. Considering the fact that
many viruses add the exact same notice, it's pretty useless and really
amounts to nothing more than advertising aka SPAM.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> That is not quite what I got. The CAN isn't required, but
> some substitution for it is.
Hmm. Guessing based on Dr. Dustmann's mention of 1500CHF for the CAN
"breakout box", I have to wonder if it might be the multi-battery-system
(MBS) component he referred to in his email to me (excerpt quoted
below):
"Please provide costs for the complete system (battery,
thermal management, battery controller( 28000,-CHF ), and
charger (2000,-CHF) in prototype quantity as well as in low
volume (e.g. 10-20 units/year).( 24000,-CHF AND 1800,- CHF )
FOR A MULTI-BATTERY-SYSTEM A MBS FOR 1500,-CHF IS REQUIREDAND
A CAN-DISPLAY IS CONVENIENT. A ZEBRA MONITOR INTERFACE FOR
DIAGROSTIC IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT COSTS 850,-CHF"
> (See attached file: zebZ5C.pdf)(See attached file:
> caricabatteria.pdf)(See attached file: G Diagnostic kit.pdf)
Same data sheets he sent me (although I didn't receive the "G Diagnostic
kit.pdf"). If you read the "caricabatteria.pdf" charger data sheet you
will notice that it describes the charger accepting a PWM control signal
from the Zebra battery's integrated BMI. While the charger does have a
DB9 connector, there is no mention of it being CAN-capable, and there is
specifically no mention of CAN communications being required for it to
operate.
It seemed quite clear from my communication with Dr. Dustmann that a
minimal system could consist of just a Z5C battery and a charger;
nothing else is required. He did highly recommend the Zebra monitor
interface for its diagnostic capabilities, but I got the impression this
is not a component one would permanently install in each vehicle. The
CAN display (500CHF at the time the other prices were quoted to me)
would be mounted in the vehicle and communicates directly with the BMI
to display voltage, current, temperature, SOC, etc.
There is still no obvious requirement that the vehicle itself have CAN,
although it might be beneficial for the motor controller to communicate
with the BMI. Given the voltage and modest current capabiltiies of this
battery it is best suited to pairing with an AC traction system; do your
controllers speak CAN (that the Zebra components understand)? If not,
which controllers did you see being used in Zebra-equipped vehicles in
Europe?.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I should had add, that in industrial battery charger rooms, that the whole
ceiling is a large hood fan, that has controls dampers to restrict the flow.
The walls that are next to the benches that the batteries are place on, is a
double layer aluminum duct about 2 inches wide, with a 2 inch slot just off the
bench top.
Then this continues down to the floor with another slot. Each section has
motorize dampers to provide more suction at each opening when needed.
This is design, so the fumes are not pull up past the worker, but is force
downward away from the worker.
All rooms that required ventilations are now design this way. Welding shops
has a extra drop down exhaust tubing that is place right at the work, plus
upper and lower exhaust ports.
In my EV, I am pulling DOWN the fumes and out away from the car to the outside.
This requires a totally enclose seal battery containers to do.
I never charge the batteries inside a building with the battery covers open.
Sometimes open them while outside.
The battery chargers that service the batteries in the battery room are not
place in the room. They are all in equipment cabinets in another room. The
battery charger leads are than conduit to arc proof recepticles that are on the
wall just above the bench top exhaust outlets.
For added safety, we do not want any battery fumes going up past this
recepticles, which are explosive proof anyway.
Battery charger leads, first must be connected to the battery, which activates
a interlock back at the battery charger. Then a explosive proof switch is turn
on by the user to turn on the battery charger module power to the battery or
batteries. Indicators that is behind a explosive proof glass panel are monitor
by the user.
Some of these rooms, are completely factory design, where we just assemble.
Some are double walls types, that are isolated from RF fields and outside
electrical ground systems.
Roland
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Fortunat Mueller<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: charging fumes in garage
Roland,
That is some good advice, but i don't think your
description of duct location make much sense for a
battery charging room.
When (over)charging batteries, hydrogen is the
flammable gas that is produced at the battery. As i am
sure you know, H2 is extremely light and will collect
at the top of your garage or battery compartment, not
along the floor as with most HC fuels. Thus the
ventilation system should sweep the top of the room,
not the bottom.
I would reccomend that if you charge in your garage,
you should install a small brushless ventilation fan
somewhere near the top of your garage. The fan should
be set up to exhaust outside and should be interlocked
with your charger. (also, first make sure your charger
is working right and you aren't cooking your
batteries).
the National Electric Code has a table of minimum
ventilation flow required for indoor charging and it
is something like 74 CFM for a single vehicle charged
off a 120 V 40 A branch circuit (i think it is article
625 of the NEC).
good luck. be safe.
~fortunat
--- Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
> Hello Lance,
>
> In battery charger rooms, which I design the
> electrical systems for, they must be made somewhat
> explosive proof. The do not have the full explosive
> proof and arc proof devices as a for gasoline or
> other fuels.
> ...
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com<http://mail.yahoo.com/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad E Jensen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: Newbie
> I will see if I can turn off the virus notification. I am using a free
> version of an anti-virus software, so I might not have that option. I think I
> can turn off the outgoing scanning entirely. Since it is way at the bottom of
> the message and isn't very overwhelming, it has never been a problem with any
> other lists that I am a member of. You are the first person to even notice
> it. Sorry, it was not intended to offend/ annoy.
>
Go to the AVG Free Edition Control Center, left clik on the E-mail Scanner box
and then right clik on the properties tag that comes up, the Plugins tab
should be the one you see, clik on the Configure box and then uncheck the
Certify Mail boxes in the E-Mail Scanning area.
It does take up a small amount of bandwidth, but when you add it all up, it is
major, :-)
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Really? I'd never imagine BRUSA would do it - must be really
old(ish) design. DB9 are not sealed. I'm really surprized.
Victor
David Roden wrote:
On 9 Aug 2005 at 11:11, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
No, it will not be 9 pin copmputer style D-type connector!
My Brusa AMC-320 (AKA Solectria AC-320) does indeed use a DB-9 for the motor
speed sensor. The AMC-300 has a dual inline header connector, IIRC.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roger Stockton wrote:
...
There is still no obvious requirement that the vehicle itself have CAN,
although it might be beneficial for the motor controller to communicate
with the BMI.
This is exactly right - the point is the battery needs to speak to the
inverter slowing down the vehicle if needed, not only the charger talk
to the battery.
Given the voltage and modest current capabiltiies of this
battery it is best suited to pairing with an AC traction system; do your
controllers speak CAN (that the Zebra components understand)?
MES ones do. Siemens do too if CAN software module is loaded in.
In the controllers I have it isn't, althouth all the hardware ports
are there.
If not,
which controllers did you see being used in Zebra-equipped vehicles in
Europe?.
MES-DEA ones - naturally you'd think the same manufacturer would make
their inverter to talk to their own batery :-)
Perhaps there are some others. I will have new inverter developed
by my Euro partners which will do it too (and talk to my BMS so
it is total integrated vehicle system).
Don't ask for details yet....
Cheers,
Roger.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, It looks like the list server went down about the time I originally
sent this post, so here it is again. Anyways, I'm one of those lurker
newbies. Now I finally need some and I have come out of the lurker
closet. :-)
Here the problem, I bought the normal tach sensor that is used on ADC
motors but I don't have the proper clearances needed on my 11" Kostov.
After getting a good idea from Brian Baumel's post awhile back, I need
help on deciding what type of diodes that are used. In the white paper
for MLX90217 Hall-Effect Cam Sensor it says "In severe cases it may be
necessary to include a Zener diode to clamp positive interference and
Schottky diodes to clamp negative excursions."
It is shown on Page 5 - Severe Environment and Automotive Protection
Circuit.
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Melexis%20Web%20Data/MLX90217.pdf
Any help would be appreciated.
John Grigg
>> Brian's Post from 5/8/05
I simply placed a hall effect sensor near my fly wheel. place a magnet
BEHIND the sensor and every time a teeth passes by, it induces a
magnetic field change and the sensor produces a digital clock pulse. no
need to mount anything and a rotating surface. then you just divide by
how many teeth are on your fly wheel.
search digikey for "MLX90217LUA-ND". for about $6 you can get a
precision sensor designed for automotive use.
Brian
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 11:24 AM 8/05/05 -0700, keith vansickle wrote:
> >hi james,bill and all,
> >what method do you all recommend to find the RPM of exposed axle
> >shafts on a front wheel drive veh.
> can I
> >place a mag and use a bicycle speedo pickup? if so
> how
> >to get pulses into RPM???
>
> Hi Keith
>
> On the rally cars they use an inductive proximity switch mounted
> inside the brake assembly (I have never done it, only fixed a couple
> of the terratrip units that they feed). A search using appropriate
> terms such as "terratrip speed sensor" may turn up the mounting method
> used.
>
> To mount something to a front wheel shaft, a pair of heavy-duty hose
> clamps (the ones with a bolt, not a worm) would be able to do it. The
> problem you have is that as the suspension moves, the angle of the
> drive shaft changes relative to just about everything around it. You
> need something that retains position relative to your sensor to be
> able to detect it.
>
> To get wheel speed into motor RPM is not that difficult, it just
> changes for each gear. The actual implementation of changing ratios
> and detecting which ratio to use is an issue.
>
> James
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This email and any attachments thereto may contain private, confidential, and
privileged material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or distribution of
this email (or any attachments
thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended recipient is
strictly prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender immediately
and permanently
delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments thereto.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello all,
Does anyone know of a reputable place that sells used EV parts. In
particular I'm looking for a motor to at least start on my conversion
project. I had a budget of about $6,000 CDN, however, recent financial
events have cut this down considerably. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Stefano
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey all,
First, I'd like to thank all who responded. Now let me answer a few of your
questions. I don't necessarily need a 7-8 sec 0-60 time but I want good off
the line acceleration. I could handle it being as slow as my current car. (a
'98 sunfire 2.2 w/5spd) but would like it to be at least a little bit
quicker. Range is my biggest concern, but I do enjoy a semi sporty drive
and just don't feel I could enjoy driving a car with no pick up. Another
thing to keep in mind is that a vast majority of NJ drivers are quite
aggressive and tend to take advantage of slower cars. I am constantly cut
off by people who drive faster cars than me simply because I just can't keep
up. This, to me, is dangerous and very agravating as well, so I need a car
that can keep up in stop and go traffic as well as at highway speeds. 0-60
in 15-20 seconds (or more) just isn't feasable in my area. Now that my
motivations are, perhaps, a bit more clear, anything on my other Q's?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I HAVE A GOOD USED 8" ADV. DC. MOTOR FOR
SALE.......$700.00............OR..........YOU CAN BUY THE ELECTRIC 914
PORSCHE W/ 22 NEW BATTERYS & 9" ADV DC MOTOR.
ECT..........$8000.00...................BILL
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Stefano Landi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 8/9/2005 3:30:51 PM
> Subject: Source of used EV parts
>
> Hello all,
>
> Does anyone know of a reputable place that sells used EV parts. In
> particular I'm looking for a motor to at least start on my conversion
> project. I had a budget of about $6,000 CDN, however, recent financial
> events have cut this down considerably. Any help would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Stefano
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You'd want to use a fairly lightweight aerodynamic vehicle to start
with,
Porsche 914, Carmen Ghia, Honda CRX, etc.
I'm flattered, but I hardly tend to think of my 914 as being either
particularly aerodynamic or lightweight :) That is, of course, unless
you're comparing it to a truck, SUV, or heavy old Volvo or something.
However, I might add that people have been pretty abusive to 914s in
conversions with good results, i.e. they can take a lot of battery
weight, which you'd need to hold enough Orbitals or Optimas for a
60-mile range. Check out the various 914s in the EV album.
And if you're buying one, please check for signs of rust, and look
EVERYWHERE; you'll save yourself a LOT of trouble. Trust me...
-Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Brad E Jensen wrote:
> I will see if I can turn off the virus notification. I am using a free
> version of an anti-virus software, so I might not have that option. I think I
> can turn off the outgoing scanning entirely. Since it is way at the bottom of
> the message and isn't very overwhelming, it has never been a problem with any
> other lists that I am a member of. You are the first person to even notice
> it. Sorry, it was not intended to offend/ annoy.
Under the email scanner tab:
Check and certify are two different items in the email scan section.
Both are user
determined.
Check incoming or outgoing emails will enable AVG to scan your emails
as they are sent/received.
Certify incoming or outgoing emails will enable AVG to add a Notation
to all emails
that it was indeed scanned for known virus.
Uncheck the "certify" option.
http://www.hackfix.org/software/configure/avg.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you find that the speed sensor is connected, check to see if you don't
have two motor phases interchanged. This is what my AMC 300 manual says also
causes this symptom.
August Johnson
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 11:32 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: A/C motor problems
On 9 Aug 2005 at 11:11, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> No, it will not be 9 pin copmputer style D-type connector!
My Brusa AMC-320 (AKA Solectria AC-320) does indeed use a DB-9 for the motor
speed sensor. The AMC-300 has a dual inline header connector, IIRC.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I HAVE A 914 PORSCHE FOR SALE.........http://home.netcom.com/~slh4/
Bill & Sharon Hoopes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [Original Message]
> From: Ben Apollonio <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 8/9/2005 4:25:21 PM
> Subject: Re: Enthusiastic newby looking for good advice
>
> >
> > You'd want to use a fairly lightweight aerodynamic vehicle to start
> > with,
> > Porsche 914, Carmen Ghia, Honda CRX, etc.
>
> I'm flattered, but I hardly tend to think of my 914 as being either
> particularly aerodynamic or lightweight :) That is, of course, unless
> you're comparing it to a truck, SUV, or heavy old Volvo or something.
> However, I might add that people have been pretty abusive to 914s in
> conversions with good results, i.e. they can take a lot of battery
> weight, which you'd need to hold enough Orbitals or Optimas for a
> 60-mile range. Check out the various 914s in the EV album.
>
> And if you're buying one, please check for signs of rust, and look
> EVERYWHERE; you'll save yourself a LOT of trouble. Trust me...
>
> -Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I haven't been able to extablish communications with them yet,
though I haven't called them yet either, only e-mailed their [EMAIL PROTECTED]
They are working with/spun off from the guys that started out
doing Prius+ conversion/modifications, their specialty is
vehicle electronics and they have managed to not only read
but also write, and with no errors!, False SOC information to
the Prius CAN-bus computer network.
Thus their small display/computer interface with all it's neat
RPM/Current/Voltage/etc (available by reading from the CAN) also
allows you to choose the SOC, say, 50% or 90%. Which in turn
determines at what level the electric side is utilized in the
Gas-Electric Mixed-Mode Dance.
This device would enable any one of us to add whatever type of
batter configurations (within voltage and current requirements)
we choose in a 2004+ Prius. We would also be expected to manage
our own real pack SOC and charging. The stock battery would
most likely simply be left unconnected or be removed. Such a
device would also be great simply as a more advanced drivers
feedback device, without the SOC hijacking features enabled.
SO! And I've been meaning to pose this question anyway...
Would anyone here be interested in trying to encourage
EnergyCS to sell this wonderfull device alone?
Lest it become available only as part of their On-Site Only,
Valance Li-ion, $12K or more "Prius Conversion" ?!
I for one would be happy enough to give local Converters
the potential business of modifying Local Prii with a
$500-$1000 EnergyCS Prius+ Display and $1000 of 10 miles of Pba,
$2000 of Ni-CD good for 20 miles, or $??,??? of Lithium for 40+
miles of streight EV Range, 120+ miles of Mixed-Mode 100+mpg range.
L8r
Ryan
Stefano Landi wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I was listening to a podcast last week from EVWorld.com about a
> company called EnergyCS that is hoping to mass market a conversion
> system to make Prius a plug-in Hybrid. I'm wondering if they may have
> some info on making a Prius electric only? There website is
> http://www.energycs.com/Edrive-FAQ.html this is the FAQ specifically
> for the plug-in conversion Edrive system.
>
> Stefano
>
> On 8/8/05, Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>Lightning Ryan wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I'm not sure exactly what constitutes a "Conversion" in this case.
>>
>>....
>>
>>>doesn't that make the Prius+ an EV Conversion?
>>
>>It would be an EV if the gas motor was removed.
>>
>>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can anybody tell me if $45.00 for a Marathon M12V155FT battery is a good deal?
They are 12v, 155ahr AGM batteries and they are going for $45.00 ea @ 10+qty,
brand new. They were going into a cell site but they cancelled the project.
Gabe
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
whaaa? That's too good to be true...or at least too good to be good,
if you take my meaning.
I've never heard of Marathon batteries before, but $45 for 155Ahr @ 12V
is insanely cheap. By comparison, a 6V Trojan GC battery at 225Ah is
something like $70, and the Orbital/Optima 55Ah 12V AGM's are typically
around $125.
So if the batteries are any good, then yes, it's a good deal. In fact,
I want some, I think. Otherwise, someone's playing nasty tricks on
vulnerable, ignorant consumers.
-Ben
On Aug 9, 2005, at 8:56 PM, Gabriel Alarcon wrote:
Can anybody tell me if $45.00 for a Marathon M12V155FT battery is a
good deal? They are 12v, 155ahr AGM batteries and they are going
for $45.00 ea @ 10+qty, brand new. They were going into a cell site
but they cancelled the project.
Gabe
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, John,
With that same sensor , I used an 18 volt zener ( high enough to never
conduct under normal conditions, but low enough to keep the chip input less
than the allowable 24V. ) You could probably use anything between a 16 and
22 volt zener. It could be any power rating.
For the other (blocking) diode, I just used a standard silicon diode ( I
think a 1N4004 because I just happened to have one handy). You could
probably use anything. It just blocks a negative voltage (if you hook
things up wrong or have a negative transient) from getting to the chip
power input.
Anyone know why they recommended a Schottky diode, and am I asking for
trouble by not using one??
Phil
From: "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Hall-Effect tach sensor for Zilla
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 14:30:12 -0700
Hi, It looks like the list server went down about the time I originally
sent this post, so here it is again. Anyways, I'm one of those lurker
newbies. Now I finally need some and I have come out of the lurker
closet. :-)
Here the problem, I bought the normal tach sensor that is used on ADC
motors but I don't have the proper clearances needed on my 11" Kostov.
After getting a good idea from Brian Baumel's post awhile back, I need
help on deciding what type of diodes that are used. In the white paper
for MLX90217 Hall-Effect Cam Sensor it says "In severe cases it may be
necessary to include a Zener diode to clamp positive interference and
Schottky diodes to clamp negative excursions."
It is shown on Page 5 - Severe Environment and Automotive Protection
Circuit.
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Melexis%20Web%20Data/MLX90217.pdf
Any help would be appreciated.
John Grigg
>> Brian's Post from 5/8/05
I simply placed a hall effect sensor near my fly wheel. place a magnet
BEHIND the sensor and every time a teeth passes by, it induces a
magnetic field change and the sensor produces a digital clock pulse. no
need to mount anything and a rotating surface. then you just divide by
how many teeth are on your fly wheel.
search digikey for "MLX90217LUA-ND". for about $6 you can get a
precision sensor designed for automotive use.
Brian
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 11:24 AM 8/05/05 -0700, keith vansickle wrote:
> >hi james,bill and all,
> >what method do you all recommend to find the RPM of exposed axle
> >shafts on a front wheel drive veh.
> can I
> >place a mag and use a bicycle speedo pickup? if so
> how
> >to get pulses into RPM???
>
> Hi Keith
>
> On the rally cars they use an inductive proximity switch mounted
> inside the brake assembly (I have never done it, only fixed a couple
> of the terratrip units that they feed). A search using appropriate
> terms such as "terratrip speed sensor" may turn up the mounting method
> used.
>
> To mount something to a front wheel shaft, a pair of heavy-duty hose
> clamps (the ones with a bolt, not a worm) would be able to do it. The
> problem you have is that as the suspension moves, the angle of the
> drive shaft changes relative to just about everything around it. You
> need something that retains position relative to your sensor to be
> able to detect it.
>
> To get wheel speed into motor RPM is not that difficult, it just
> changes for each gear. The actual implementation of changing ratios
> and detecting which ratio to use is an issue.
>
> James
>
>
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This email and any attachments thereto may contain private, confidential,
and privileged material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or distribution of
this email (or any attachments
thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended recipient
is strictly prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
immediately and permanently
delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments
thereto.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lawrence,
Based on Bill's design, I managed to squeeze 22 Optimas in the Blue
Phantom and still have some "trunk" space (that is, the area behind the
back seat) and a back seat. There are 10 in front, 6 under the back
seat, and 6 under the trunk area (where the spare tire used to be). If
you're willing to sacrifice about 1/2 the trunk space, it would be
possible to add another 4 Optimas (I have seriously thought about this,
actually). There are a few downsides, though:
- weight shifts toward the back (right now it's pretty well balanced
front-to-back)
- batteries and high-voltage wiring in the trunk would technically be in
the "passenger" compartment and would need to be covered and shielded
- the batteries under the trunk (where the spare tire used to be) would
now be somewhat blocked by these new batteries on top, so replacing one
of these might mean removing the ones on top first
Dean
1979 132V Rabbit "Blue Phantom"
1959 120V MGA "Fire Chief" (still for sale)
Pusher trailer (still for sale)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Chuck Hays wrote:
Of course you'll find "gasohol" in any gas station. Your
truck will also run on up to 85% alcohol mixtures. Since
you're gonna be in the heart of Corn Country you may
find some stations with "E85" for sale. "Running" it
entails putting it in the tank and driving the vehicle.
The mass-flow sensor in the fuel line tells the engine
computers what's on the way, and they make all
the changes to timing and injector volume and so on.
Things to remember about ethanol: It loves water. It
will absorb it from the atmosphere. This hygroscopic
quality is what makes "gas line dryer" so effective.
It is less stable therefore than straight gasoline. If
you're storing the vehicle or letting it sit for long
periods, fill it with straight gas if you can, or not more
than E10. It is also harder to get started in the cold,
which is why they blend in 15% gasoline to E85. If
you want to burn E100 you'll need to add a preheater
and a bunch of other stuff. Too much like work if
you're going to E it anyway, because I don't believe
an FFV will run on E100, though it will run on "E0".
Powerwise, ethanol has essentially 50% of the heat
energy of gasoline per unit volume. Figure that E85
will give you approximately a 45% reduction in mileage
over burning straight gasoline in an unmodified engine.
Ethanol has an "effective octane" of 112, which is why
the go-fast guys use it in high-compression engines.
That's a whole other discussion! In an otherwise
unmodified auto engine, the only real advantage
ethanol has is that it's classed as a "renewable" fuel and
the major manufacturers can get nifty tax and regulatory
breaks from making a few flexible fuel vehicles which
they sell at a loss so they can crank out more SUVs under
their CAFE protocols.
Thanks for all the info. Although I probably won't be able to convert my
truck to 100% electric due to range requirements, I'm certainly planning
to make it into some form of a plug-in hybrid. I asked about the ethanol
because I think I'd be better off with an Alt.Fuel/Electric hybrid
verses a Gasoline/Electric hybrid... (hmmm, so much to think about!)
--
-Nick
http://Go.DriveEV.com/
1988 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 EV
---------------------------
--- End Message ---
