EV Digest 4713
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Albright SW200A Contactors $50
by russco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Coax
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Albright SW200A Contactors $50
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Surplus EV motor as used by the evolks guys
by Stefano Landi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: pennsylvania
by "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Lithium Battery Users?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: EVILbus
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Fest-ev-a project update
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Electricity stored in batteries. The biggest dissapointment of the
modern world.
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: pennsylvania
by "Peter Eckhoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Electricity stored in batteries. The biggest dissapointment of the
modern world.
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
by Cwarman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Sep-ex vs AC comparison
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Practical payback???
by Kluge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Albright SW200A Contactors $50
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Coax
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Surplus EV motor as used by the evolks guys
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) DC-DC for lights only?
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: First Electric Vehicle, Inc. First Contact.
by Stefano Landi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Fest-ev-a project update
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: DC-DC for lights only?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: DC-DC for lights only?
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: DC-DC for lights only?
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Tilley electric car coming soon?
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Fiber glass body available
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) RE: Coax
by "Harris, Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
In your quest to save $$$$$$$$$, you have purchased a contactor with a
56 volt coil manufactured for a well known telephone company. Per
conversation with Curtis this afternoon. Do your research before
purchasing unknown components. Same with the IOTA, but I won't go
there. Well, back to the regen. controller.
Russ Kaufmann
Russco Engineering
The Other PFC Charger With GFCI
Evan Tuer wrote:
On 9/14/05, Steve O <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Sounds good but no thanks.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 9/14/05, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> For slow stuff, I'd use plain old cheap acrylic plastic fiber (the kind
> sold to hobbyists to make novelty items like paintings with stars in the
> sky that light up). A superbright LED and phototransistor, attached to
> the fiber with heatshrink tubing, makes a very cheap fiber optic link
> that will carry modest data rates over tens of feet.
Is there a cheap device that has both in one housing?
It's nice to have connectors rather than the fiber being permanently
attached, and I don't see why they have to be so expensive either.
And of course the drawback with fiber is it's point-to-point and thus
hard to build a "bus" (a backplane or single fiber into which
everything plugs), right? Or has anybody invented a way to make a
passive hub yet?
> various networks against it to see what happened. Most failed totally
> (RS-232, RS-485, CANbus, Ethernet on Cat5 wire). Appletalk worked, but
Did you try really good shielded cable with any of them?
> Agreed. We should move further discusssions over there if anyone's
> interested.
I've been trying to subscribe; sent a couple messages to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] and haven't gotten replies.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would like 5 Dennis Berube. ups and a credit card waiting
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
One coupler coming right up...
http://www.e-volks.com/catalog.0.html.0.html
go to the bottom of the page, according to an e-mail I got from them a week
ago this adapter ONLY fits their motor and so will not fit the motor I
already bought for my Festiva conversion.
Good luck.
I may look into buying this motor for my next conversion project, an
electric snowmobile, but that won't be for a few years yet :)))
Stefano
http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
On 9/14/05, David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks Stefano,
> I think that is the motor that matches my Corbin adapter. Even tho I am
> not
> building a bug right now but at this price I will probably pick one up
> just
> to have on hand. After all, I do have that Meyers Manx body out
> back....Hmm.
> Too bad they aren't offering the coupler too!! LOL, that would be too
> easy.
>
> David Chapman
> Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
> http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stefano Landi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 8:24 AM
> Subject: Surplus EV motor as used by the evolks guys
>
>
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > Just passing on some information and a link.
> >
> >
>
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005091410121302&item=6-936&catname=electric
> >
> > regards,
> >
> > Stefano
> >
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
California, Near Modesto
David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)
"I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil
over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command.
When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When
thou art low, the touch of my hand shall raise thy spirit to the proper
level. When thou are too high, I shall terminate thee with a swift stroke of
my sword. When thy wires are frayed and broken, my angels shall use solder
and iron to heal thee. Thou art the circuit, I am the chosen one, I am the
TECH CONTROLLER!"
----- Original Message -----
From: "EVdave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 6:57 AM
Subject: pennsylvania
I'm just curious, where the majority of the people on this list are from?
does anyone know? Im from philly and i feel like im the only one on the
east coast with an EV. (minus a couple of people ive seen respond to msgs
from Conn. and upstate NY....)
db
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, not at all, they work great! It's just if I use 200Ah cells,
they are no longer needed since will be stiff enough just like
ultracaps bank now. So I just won't take any advantage of it then.
If your pack is "soft", (e.g. lots of energy stored but
low power), this is where ultracaps will benefit the most, and
this is want was in my car (soft 90Ah cells).
Victor
Meta Bus wrote:
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
If I'd do it again knowing what I know now, I'd use 200Ah cells and
no ultracaps.
Victor, that statement catches my interest, as I was planning to
incorporate ultracaps into my re-design.
Were you disappointed by your ultracaps?
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Meta Bus writes:
>> But could you please change the name? I don't want to tell my wife
> I am working on evil bus code...
Ralph Merwin wrote:
> I've also thought a different name would be more appropriate for
> better mass acceptance. An obvious choice is EVIbus, for Electric
> Vehicle Instrumentation bus.
That's fine by me. I agree that the name is a bit whimsical.
I was thinking about the name "fuzzy logic" that Prof. Lotfi Zadeh gave
to his non-boolean logic. It's rigorous, serious science -- so why the
silly name? Zadeh said, "When I first started discussing the concept, I
found that I got a lot more attention with a silly name that people
would remember. People would seek to find out more about it just because
of the name."
Those who "do it" can name it whatever they like. Let's get more people
than just me to use it; then it won't be EVIL (Electric Vehicle
Instrumentation by Lee) any more; it can be simply EVI. :-)
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi John and All,
Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 12:43:20 -0700, "Lawrence Rhodes"
wrote:
>http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005091410121302&item=6-936&catname=electric
>
>This would work great at 72vdc. Keep that pack weight down. Use an Altrax.
Shipping to here is $43 per motor, making the cost about $222 per
motor. Is that a good price? That seems kinda high for a surplus
motor but I don't have a lot of experience in this area.
This is a jet engine starter that is fairly ineff causing
overheating problems and requiring both a bigger contoller and bigger battery
pack and a blower to make up the lower eff where most are 6-8% more eff with
less performance.
Also how is it wound, series or shunt? They have come both
ways apart or even at the same time. So I'd rather spend a little more money or
time to find a better motor. There are obsolete fork lifts all over along with
used EV, motor shops, ect where you can find series motors like we need even
more cheap than $179 as I have never paid more than $100 for a motor.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Before you bleat "EVs"
Why is it that John seems incapable of trying to make a point without
making personal digs at EV enthusiasts and list participants? Mark is a
well respected engineer in the EV space who has walked the talk for 20
year or more. He is no sheep, rather a leader and pioneer in the space.
I appreciate John's data sharing, but I find the constant 2x4 to the
head shots more than a little annoying.
-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We're active here in North Carolina. Several own EVs and I'm working on
getting an EV on the road.
We also support the EV Challenge! http://www.evchallenge.org/ There over 20
EVs in the main pix.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 16:38 PM
Subject: Re: pennsylvania
> California, Near Modesto
>
>
> David C. Wilker Jr.
> USAF (RET)
>
> "I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil
> over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command.
> When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When
> thou art low, the touch of my hand shall raise thy spirit to the proper
> level. When thou are too high, I shall terminate thee with a swift stroke
of
> my sword. When thy wires are frayed and broken, my angels shall use solder
> and iron to heal thee. Thou art the circuit, I am the chosen one, I am the
> TECH CONTROLLER!"
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "EVdave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 6:57 AM
> Subject: pennsylvania
>
>
> > I'm just curious, where the majority of the people on this list are
from?
> > does anyone know? Im from philly and i feel like im the only one on the
> > east coast with an EV. (minus a couple of people ive seen respond to
msgs
> > from Conn. and upstate NY....)
> >
> > db
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bill Dennis wrote:
> Lee Hart was saying they work, but not for very long.
I was speaking about the earlier Todd "DC/DC". Todd was bought out or
merged, or somehow became IOTA.
> I'm not sure what's going on to cause them to fail. These usually
> just rectify out the AC into DC and the DC supply gets fed to a
> switching power supply. So in theory they should be fine, but
> there's always catches.
Correct. See below. The old Todds had circuit #1 (bridge rectifer and
one big capacitor), so they worked on DC. But you needed a DC input
voltage around 120-180vdc so it wasn't too far from its design center of
168vdc.
Also, they were rather poorly made. The case wasn't sealed, the boards
weren't coated to be water-resistant, and there were no fuses or thermal
protectors in case of overloads or overtemperatures. Apply too high or
too low an input voltage, and it died. Apply too much load or let it get
too hot and it died. Let it get dirty or damp, and it died.
> Lee pointed out that the voltage is pretty rough with a high current
> PWM at the source.
This wasn't specifically a problem with the old Todd; it did have an
input filter good enough to keep most of the input noise from affecting
operation. The problems usually came from the input voltage dipping too
low when the batteries were under a heavy load and nearly dead, or from
excessive battery voltage at the end of a charge cycle.
But other switchers can have trouble. Many assume nice clean sinewave
power going in; not the kind of noise they will get in an EV.
> I was wondering if an RC input filter could fix this. It would
> require a pretty sizable inductor and capacitor but I think these
> can be picked up on surplus pretty cheap.
Certainly you could add filters if the supply was otherwise suitable.
The other possibility was the heat or vibration in auto service was too
hard on it. In that case an input filter, or an inverter, wouldn't
help.
Correct. There's no easy cure for shoddy construction.
> My pack is 126V nominal, dropping to around 105V at end of cycle.
> Does this sound too low for the IOTA unit?
I haven't had an IOTA to look at, and so can't say what will happen.
But, I can say that a normal switchmode power supply designed for 120vac
is unlikely to work well at 126vdc, and would be likely to fail at
105vdc at full load.
These supplies normally have one of two circuits. Circuit #1 is a bridge
rectifier and a single large electrolytic capacitor. It rectifies the
incoming 120vac to produce 120 x 1.4 = 168vdc. The internal DC/DC runs
off this voltage. This type works with a DC input as long as the voltage
is somewhere close to 168vdc. Too low (less than about 120vdc), and the
input current consumption goes up too high; it overheats and fails. Too
high, and you exceed the breakdown voltage of the big capacitor (usually
200-250vdc) and it fails.
Circuit #2 is a voltage doubler with 2 diodes and 2 big filter
capacitors. The voltage doubler converts 120vac into 120 x 2.8 = 336vdc.
This DC voltage is what runs the internal DC/DC. This circuit only works
with an AC input; not DC.
Many power supplies have a switch, jumper wire, or device to
automatically convert between these two circuits. If you have 120vac, it
uses circuit #1 to double the input voltage. If you have 240vac, it uses
circuit #2. In both cases, the internal DC/DC then runs on 336vdc. This
type of supply is only useful as a DC/DC converter if your pack voltage
is around 300vdc.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 12:57:46 -0700, "Lawrence Rhodes"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Paid 12k. State paid other half. Not doing it only on cost but now I'm
>really glad I did it. My bill is 10 dollars a month. Oh I do pay 100 on
>the loan but that includes two cars too. LR.......
Hmm, 24k for a system with a payback measured in decades, if ever?
Practical to you, maybe but probably not for most others.
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So Lee,
I would be better off with a DC DC converter made with a EV in mind...
Whats your recommendation ?
Cwarman
Lee Hart wrote:
Bill Dennis wrote:
Lee Hart was saying they work, but not for very long.
I was speaking about the earlier Todd "DC/DC". Todd was bought out or
merged, or somehow became IOTA.
I'm not sure what's going on to cause them to fail. These usually
just rectify out the AC into DC and the DC supply gets fed to a
switching power supply. So in theory they should be fine, but
there's always catches.
Correct. See below. The old Todds had circuit #1 (bridge rectifer and
one big capacitor), so they worked on DC. But you needed a DC input
voltage around 120-180vdc so it wasn't too far from its design center of
168vdc.
Also, they were rather poorly made. The case wasn't sealed, the boards
weren't coated to be water-resistant, and there were no fuses or thermal
protectors in case of overloads or overtemperatures. Apply too high or
too low an input voltage, and it died. Apply too much load or let it get
too hot and it died. Let it get dirty or damp, and it died.
Lee pointed out that the voltage is pretty rough with a high current
PWM at the source.
This wasn't specifically a problem with the old Todd; it did have an
input filter good enough to keep most of the input noise from affecting
operation. The problems usually came from the input voltage dipping too
low when the batteries were under a heavy load and nearly dead, or from
excessive battery voltage at the end of a charge cycle.
But other switchers can have trouble. Many assume nice clean sinewave
power going in; not the kind of noise they will get in an EV.
I was wondering if an RC input filter could fix this. It would
require a pretty sizable inductor and capacitor but I think these
can be picked up on surplus pretty cheap.
Certainly you could add filters if the supply was otherwise suitable.
The other possibility was the heat or vibration in auto service was too
hard on it. In that case an input filter, or an inverter, wouldn't
help.
Correct. There's no easy cure for shoddy construction.
My pack is 126V nominal, dropping to around 105V at end of cycle.
Does this sound too low for the IOTA unit?
I haven't had an IOTA to look at, and so can't say what will happen.
But, I can say that a normal switchmode power supply designed for 120vac
is unlikely to work well at 126vdc, and would be likely to fail at
105vdc at full load.
These supplies normally have one of two circuits. Circuit #1 is a bridge
rectifier and a single large electrolytic capacitor. It rectifies the
incoming 120vac to produce 120 x 1.4 = 168vdc. The internal DC/DC runs
off this voltage. This type works with a DC input as long as the voltage
is somewhere close to 168vdc. Too low (less than about 120vdc), and the
input current consumption goes up too high; it overheats and fails. Too
high, and you exceed the breakdown voltage of the big capacitor (usually
200-250vdc) and it fails.
Circuit #2 is a voltage doubler with 2 diodes and 2 big filter
capacitors. The voltage doubler converts 120vac into 120 x 2.8 = 336vdc.
This DC voltage is what runs the internal DC/DC. This circuit only works
with an AC input; not DC.
Many power supplies have a switch, jumper wire, or device to
automatically convert between these two circuits. If you have 120vac, it
uses circuit #1 to double the input voltage. If you have 240vac, it uses
circuit #2. In both cases, the internal DC/DC then runs on 336vdc. This
type of supply is only useful as a DC/DC converter if your pack voltage
is around 300vdc.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you want truely EV grade ones, may I suggest consider these?:
http://www.metricmind.com/dcdc.htm
Victor
Cwarman wrote:
So Lee,
I would be better off with a DC DC converter made with a EV in mind...
Whats your recommendation ?
Cwarman
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For anyone interested, there is a .pdf presentation online at
<http://www.specialtyvehiclesonline.com/images/IUV05pdf/Curtis_John.pdf>
from Curtis that compares one of their sep-ex controllers to their AC
controller.
There are a few interesting plots of motor and controller efficiencies
that shed light on the question of how much advantage (efficiency-wise)
there is between AC and sep-ex DC.
The sep-ex motor's torque falls off more rapidly than the AC motor's
with RPM due to limitations on the field weakening curve. Oddly, one of
the plots shows the sep-ex system drawing about 50A more battery current
at low RPMs (where the motor torques are essentially identical) even
though the motor efficiencies in this region are near identical and the
sep-ex controller is as much as 10% more efficient.
Most interesting is some of the final graphs where they compare the
battery current demands of the sep-ex and AC systems when the AC system
is power limited at higher RPM such that its torque/speed characteristic
is identical to that of the sep-ex (at least 50A lower battery current
at all speeds and near 100A less maximum current)!
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Paid 12k. State paid other half. Not doing it only on cost but now I'm
>really glad I did it. My bill is 10 dollars a month. Oh I do pay 100 on
>the loan but that includes two cars too. LR.......
Hmm, 24k for a system with a payback measured in decades, if ever?
Practical to you, maybe but probably not for most others.
So by that logic I should rent my home and not buy it, since the payback isn't
immediate? He borrows enough cash to install the system and it
reduces his electric bill by more than the amount of his monthly loan payment.
What's not practical; about that?
Kluge
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
russco wrote:
> In your quest to save $, you have purchased a contactor with a
> 56 volt coil manufactured for a well known telephone company.
> Per conversation with Curtis this afternoon.
Good sleuth work, Russ!
Well, that's not so bad. They would still work nicely for a 48v EV. If
you're desperate, you could even run them with a little 12v-to-48v
DC/DC.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
>> For slow stuff, I'd use plain old cheap acrylic plastic fiber...
>> A superbright LED and phototransistor, attached to the fiber
>> with heatshrink tubing...
Shawn Rutledge wrote:
> Is there a cheap device that has both in one housing?
You mean an LED and light receiver? Yes, they do. They are generally
built to be reflective light detectors.
But every LED is also a photodiode. You need a high-gain opamp to
convert the tiny photocurrent it generates into a useful signal, but it
is a pretty simple circuit.
> It's nice to have connectors rather than the fiber being permanently
> attached, and I don't see why they have to be so expensive either.
When I've done this trick, the heat shrink didn't shrink enough to
literally lock the fiber to the LED -- it could just slide out. You need
a second, smaller piece of heatshrink to lock the shrunk piece to the
fiber.
> And of course the drawback with fiber is it's point-to-point and
> thus hard to build a "bus" (a backplane or single fiber into which
> everything plugs), right? Or has anybody invented a way to make a
> passive hub yet?
What about my zener-lamp regulators? They use an optical "bus" -- the
battery box itself! When any lamp lights, a single photodetector can
detect it. There is no fiber at all; the lamps just illuminate the whole
interior of the battery box.
I would guess that in a closed battery box, you could position the
sending LEDs line-of-sight to a single receiver for the "master". The
master could likewise control a single (or multiple) LEDs to illuminate
receivers at each battery location.
>> various networks against it to see what happened. Most failed totally
>> (RS-232, RS-485, CANbus, Ethernet on Cat5 wire). Appletalk worked, but
> Did you try really good shielded cable with any of them?
The RS-232 and Ethernet wires were shielded. The shield helped
considerably compared to the nonshielded cables, but they still didn't
work.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Now that is what I call good service!! Darn you. I need another project
right now like I need...Ok smarty pants, how about a 12" section of Schedule
5 4" aluminum tubing? I need that for my drag bike motor. LOL, now I am
really gonna have to dig around in my Junque Yard, I think I have most of
the rest of the bug parts necessary. Wish that pic of the coupler was a
little better quality, I wonder if that is a taperlock of some kind or if
they have found a splined spud to weld onto the flywheel adapter. Thanks for
the heads up Stefano.
David Chapman
Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefano Landi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 1:47 PM
Subject: Re: Surplus EV motor as used by the evolks guys
> One coupler coming right up...
>
> http://www.e-volks.com/catalog.0.html.0.html
>
> go to the bottom of the page, according to an e-mail I got from them a
week
> ago this adapter ONLY fits their motor and so will not fit the motor I
> already bought for my Festiva conversion.
>
> Good luck.
>
> I may look into buying this motor for my next conversion project, an
> electric snowmobile, but that won't be for a few years yet :)))
>
> Stefano
> http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
>
> On 9/14/05, David Chapman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Stefano,
> > I think that is the motor that matches my Corbin adapter. Even tho I am
> > not
> > building a bug right now but at this price I will probably pick one up
> > just
> > to have on hand. After all, I do have that Meyers Manx body out
> > back....Hmm.
> > Too bad they aren't offering the coupler too!! LOL, that would be too
> > easy.
> >
> > David Chapman
> > Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque
> > http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Stefano Landi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 8:24 AM
> > Subject: Surplus EV motor as used by the evolks guys
> >
> >
> > > Hi everyone,
> > >
> > > Just passing on some information and a link.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005091410121302&item=6-936&catname=electric
> > >
> > > regards,
> > >
> > > Stefano
> > >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
UH OH! I just bought one of these things...Any other thoughts..
Cwarman
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 2:07 PM
Subject: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
Here's a response I got from the EBay seller "associated1" saying the
Iota
power supplies not suitable for dc-dc purposes. What gives, is this
simply
a 'non-supported application' that usually works anyway?
Jay Donnaway
Vancouver WA
-snip-
We sell many of these to hobby oriented users, BUT, ALL these units both
120 vac and 220 vac are AC to DC only.
If used off a battery pack you must use an inverter OR use a generator
to supply the Iota with AC power in.
Iota does NOT make DC to DC units.
-associated1
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I haven't heard of any Iota's failing. I think Lee was making a general
statement. LR......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: IOTA power supply not dc to dc?
Lee Hart was saying they work, but not for very long.
I'm not sure what's going on to cause them to fail. These usually just
rectify out the AC into DC and the DC supply gets fed to a switching power
supply. So in theory they should be fine, but there's always catches.
Does that thing have a 220vac/110vac mechanical switch in back, or does it
adapt internally? Perhaps its design does not comfortably accomodate
intermediate voltages.
Lee pointed out that the voltage is pretty rough with a high current PWM
at the source. This is likely to be a problem, the switching power supply
can have trouble regulating out input spikes. These might be able to harm
components on the input or output side but it's impossible to say what the
problem is without evaluating the failure of a specific device.
I was wondering if an RC input filter could fix this. It would require a
pretty sizable inductor and capacitor but I think these can be picked up
on surplus pretty cheap.
The other possibility was the heat or vibration in auto service was too
hard on it. In that case an input filter, or an inverter, wouldn't help.
Danny
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here's a response I got from the EBay seller "associated1" saying the Iota
power supplies not suitable for dc-dc purposes. What gives, is this
simply a 'non-supported application' that usually works anyway?
Jay Donnaway
Vancouver WA
-snip-
We sell many of these to hobby oriented users, BUT, ALL these units both
120 vac and 220 vac are AC to DC only.
If used off a battery pack you must use an inverter OR use a generator
to supply the Iota with AC power in.
Iota does NOT make DC to DC units.
-associated1
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
G'day all,
Speaking of DC-DC converters: I'm considering a electric bike
conversion at 48V, and one of the things I'd like to eliminate is the
DC-DC converter. I can use 48V-compatible LED indicators, or wire
two 24V bulbs in series for the taillights, and there are no wipers,
radios, etc, to worry about on a bike.
Except, of course, for the headlight. On a small bike, this
is generally only a single 12V 55/60W halogen H4. Does anyone know if
I can run this at 48V if I switch it at say 20kHz, 0.25 duty cycle?
-----sharks on a budget ...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>From the knowledge and experience gained by reading this discussion list I
would be very skeptical about their range claims. Anybody got any comments?
Stefano
On 9/14/05, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> First Electric Vehicle, Inc.
> Phone: 1(415)710 5788, 1(916) 256 3903,
> I talked to someone with limited English skill. Seems they are based in
> Sacramento. I was told I could get a test drive next week.
> http://www.fevehicle.com/services.html
> Not sure what speed these vehicles are.
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Reedmaker
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> 415-821-3519
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Not a bad price for the performance. You could probably buy an adapter from
the Evolks guys in Utah. LR.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: Fest-ev-a project update
On Wed, 14 Sep 2005 12:43:20 -0700, "Lawrence Rhodes"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005091410121302&item=6-936&catname=electric
This would work great at 72vdc. Keep that pack weight down. Use an
Altrax.
Shipping to here is $43 per motor, making the cost about $222 per
motor. Is that a good price? That seems kinda high for a surplus
motor but I don't have a lot of experience in this area.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about 4 lights (in series) 15W light bulb each?
Victor
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore wrote:
G'day all,
Speaking of DC-DC converters: I'm considering a electric bike
conversion at 48V, and one of the things I'd like to eliminate is the
DC-DC converter. I can use 48V-compatible LED indicators, or wire
two 24V bulbs in series for the taillights, and there are no wipers,
radios, etc, to worry about on a bike.
Except, of course, for the headlight. On a small bike, this
is generally only a single 12V 55/60W halogen H4. Does anyone know if
I can run this at 48V if I switch it at say 20kHz, 0.25 duty cycle?
-----sharks on a budget ...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-09-14, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> How about 4 lights (in series) 15W light bulb each?
I thought about it ... but the likely donor bike fairings have
only the room for one, and getting the thing running with ADR[*]
approved lighting is going to be essential for getting it legal
on the road. Plus, I'd like it to look stock for the surprise
factor :-).
Actually, legalities here in Victoria, Australia might be
tricky anyway: they recently amended the law to ban pocketbikes
on the road, and I'm worried the changes might have been overly
general ... if any Aussies here have done it, let me know!
-----sharks
[*] Australian Design Rules, kind of the Aussie version of
T?V or DOT or whatever.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, you know they make bike white LEDs cluster head lights now?
You can get one and re-wire LEDs in series/parallel
cmbo to make it 48V, it is still be physically the same
single cluster...
Just a thought.
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore wrote:
On 2005-09-14, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
How about 4 lights (in series) 15W light bulb each?
I thought about it ... but the likely donor bike fairings have
only the room for one, and getting the thing running with ADR[*]
approved lighting is going to be essential for getting it legal
on the road. Plus, I'd like it to look stock for the surprise
factor :-).
Actually, legalities here in Victoria, Australia might be
tricky anyway: they recently amended the law to ban pocketbikes
on the road, and I'm worried the changes might have been overly
general ... if any Aussies here have done it, let me know!
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Danny Miller wrote:
Fringe science isn't all about investor fraud though. Plenty of guys
publish web pages about things they "invented" that supposedly you can do
yourself.
Please take the time to surf through http://www.amasci.com
There is tons of great info there and substantial insight to be gained as to
the nature of what we call "electricity" in particular.
This one is a great launching point-
http://amasci.com/miscon/miscon.html
Check out the site map-
http://amasci.com/sitemap.html
HTH!
.
Roy LeMeur
Olympia WA
My Electric Vehicle Pages:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evpage.html
Informative Electric Vehicle Links:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/renewables/evlinks.html
EV Parts/Gone Postal Photo Galleries:
http://www.casadelgato.com/RoyLemeur/page01.htm
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Tim and All,
This would make a cool T-Zero type EV ! With a VW or
Porsche pan, chassis would be very lightweight, long ranged and fast. Has the
makings of an EV business if one was inclined. Hopefully someone from around
Wisconsin could do this.
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
TiM M <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey, I came across this on the Corvair list I belong
to, anybody near Racine interested?
TiM
Guys, I was offered a fiberglass 'Corvair' body a
while back. Upon checking it out, I found out it
wasn't for a Corvair. It was apparently produced in
small numbers locally (SE Wisconsin); named Griffin
(Gryphon, Griffon?). Anyway, it was offered to me for
free; I just had to get it out of the warehouse it was
in.
Needless to say, I picked it up. However, I have no
use for it. If anybody is interested - it needs to go
somewhere soon. If you are serious, and can't get
here very soon, I can move it to paid storage. If
nobody wants it; I'll have to discard it. Below is
the relevant info:
I picked up the body & molds. Here is a webpage with
photos: http://home.att.net/~vairgeek These photos
show the body as picked up; there is a lot of dirt on
the back section. There is also a hump in the back;
perhaps to clear a central air cleaner? Included are
molds only for a roof with gull wing style half doors.
I have been told the roof utilizes an Early Vair
windshield. The side & back glass are flat - perhaps
Plexiglas is used for those. Here are some
measurements - all +/- ½" or so: Body is 65" wide -
front to back. It is 147" long, 25" tall at the rear
wheels, 23" tall at the front wheels, with a full
width 5" tall spoiler at the back. There is a valley
between the front wheels; I don't have measurements
for that. I also failed to get the dimension of the
cockpit F/B on the body. The cockpit is 48" wide &
38" front to back; with the seatback area sloping
forward toward the bottom. The rear wheel cutout is
33" forward from the back of the body; the wheelbase
is 87". The body appears to be as molded, although it
has blemishes from long time storage; with some
chipping of the topcoat. The body is as molded;
certainly some height could be trimmed out of it, if
desired. There are molded in half cylinder
reinforcements - visible in one of the photos. I
picked it up so it wouldn't be discarded. I have no
money into it at this point. It's currently stored in
a friends yard, but if it has to stay here too long I
might have to rent storage space (some $). It is
located in Racine, Wisconsin - zip 53404.
__________________________________________________
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Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Arggggh...
Gets me thinking. How about an I/R receive at each battery and one I/R
transmitter that broadcasts to the whole box and can send commands like
'send voltage' or whatever. Then we have a visible light receiver that
monitors an LED on each battery monitor. If there is a problem the LED
lights giving the visual indicator of who has the problem and signaling via
the receiver that there is a problem. Then poll the battery monitors using
the I/R sender. The poll command would cause all the LED's to shut off and
then the requested one re-lights flashing an RS-232 encoded data stream to
the optical receiver. If no I/R commands are sent in some time period the
LED's relight as a status indicator.
No mess of little wires, no electric noise issues (at least in the battery
box).
If heat interferes with the I/R system then I suspect you could do the same
thing with an ultraviolet LED or even just different colours.
Lawrence Harris
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lee Hart
Sent: September 14, 2005 6:08 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Coax
Lee Hart wrote:
>> For slow stuff, I'd use plain old cheap acrylic plastic fiber...
>> A superbright LED and phototransistor, attached to the fiber
>> with heatshrink tubing...
Shawn Rutledge wrote:
> Is there a cheap device that has both in one housing?
You mean an LED and light receiver? Yes, they do. They are generally
built to be reflective light detectors.
But every LED is also a photodiode. You need a high-gain opamp to
convert the tiny photocurrent it generates into a useful signal, but it
is a pretty simple circuit.
> It's nice to have connectors rather than the fiber being permanently
> attached, and I don't see why they have to be so expensive either.
When I've done this trick, the heat shrink didn't shrink enough to
literally lock the fiber to the LED -- it could just slide out. You need
a second, smaller piece of heatshrink to lock the shrunk piece to the
fiber.
> And of course the drawback with fiber is it's point-to-point and
> thus hard to build a "bus" (a backplane or single fiber into which
> everything plugs), right? Or has anybody invented a way to make a
> passive hub yet?
What about my zener-lamp regulators? They use an optical "bus" -- the
battery box itself! When any lamp lights, a single photodetector can
detect it. There is no fiber at all; the lamps just illuminate the whole
interior of the battery box.
I would guess that in a closed battery box, you could position the
sending LEDs line-of-sight to a single receiver for the "master". The
master could likewise control a single (or multiple) LEDs to illuminate
receivers at each battery location.
>> various networks against it to see what happened. Most failed totally
>> (RS-232, RS-485, CANbus, Ethernet on Cat5 wire). Appletalk worked, but
> Did you try really good shielded cable with any of them?
The RS-232 and Ethernet wires were shielded. The shield helped
considerably compared to the nonshielded cables, but they still didn't
work.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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