EV Digest 4729
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Surplus EV motor as used by the evolks guys
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Sporting an EV Grin
by Ben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Sporting an EV Grin
by Ben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re:1971 Fiat 850 spider EV
by Carmen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: EVLN(Toyota lets drivers keep their pre-Prius electric cars on
road)
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) An EV podcast
by Stefano Landi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) EVILbus and RS232
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: regs to pfc
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Highway capable conversion on a budget?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Helix revisited
by Tim Clevenger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Sporting an EV Grin
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) 84V pack charging voltage, Re: Sporting an EV Grin
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Highway capable conversion on a budget?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: An EV podcast
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tire Numbers
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Highway capable conversion on a budget?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: EVILbus and RS232
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EVILBUSQuestions
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Cheap, light taildragger (was 'Re: Rear wheel recommendations')
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: EVILbus and RS232
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Boring deep holes was Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: EVILbus and RS232
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Insight tires? Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tire Numbers
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: EVILbus and RS232
by Otmar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Rear wheel recommendations re: Mike Chancey
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Andrew Sackville-West wrote:
> Is it possible to turn a shunt wound motor into a series wound by
> connecting the field and armature coils in series?
No; a series field is just a few turns of heavy wire. A shunt field is
many turns of fine wire.
> What happens?
A shunt field in series with the armature has so much resistance that
hardly any current flows; the motor won't run.
A series field in parallel with the armature has such a low resistance
that it effectively shorts out the armature; the motor won't run.
> interesting phenomenon with shunt wound motors is that the motor will
> "run-away" is you kill the current to the field coil as the armature
> induces the field coil. is this of any use in ev applications?
Only if you want to destroy the motor! :-)
Likewise, a series motor with no load connected will try to run at
"infinite" speed -- another good way to destroy a motor!
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
About 4 hours after disconnecting
on 9/16/05 11:10 PM, David Roden at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> On 16 Sep 2005 at 17:13, Ben wrote:
>
>> I mounted and connected the orignal Hobart Bros off-board
>> charger, but it doesn't seem to taper off as described in the manual. It
>> started around 15 amps and got donwn to 10 and stayed there. My batteries
>> now
>> show 88.8 volts for the 84 volt pack. 6.34 volts per battery. I assume this
>> is fully charged.
>
> Did you measure that voltage while the charger was connected, or after
> disconnecting it? If the latter, how LONG after disconnecting it?
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
> send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I took the 1983 Kurbwatt on its maiden voyage this morning. I have had the
truck for a couple of years with the intention of making a hot rod out of
it, though my plan now pales in comparison to Gone Postal. With gas prices
hovering around $3 / gallon, I decided to go ahead and replace the 6v golf
cart batteries with a fresh set and get it on the road while I collect the
parts and cash to upgrade it later. It only has 15k miles on it and
everything seems to work. It has better acceleration than I expected and
drove quite well. I mounted and connected the orignal Hobart Bros off-board
charger, but it doesn't seem to taper off as described in the manual. It
started around 15 amps and got donwn to 10 and stayed there. My batteries
now show 88.8 volts for the 84 volt pack. 6.34 volts per battery. I assume
this is fully charged. Not sure as this my first pack of flooded batteries.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone that has had experience with the
Hobart charger or with a Kurbwatt. It would appear that the charger was
originally wired for 3 phase and was converted to single phase somewhere
along the way. I will send photos to the album soon
Ben
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/384.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've just bought a converted 1971 Fiat 850 Spider.
It has 16 6V. The battery pack is less than a month old. The former owner
said I should take several shorter trips to break in the new battery pack.
He was not sure about how many short trips or for how long. So far the
farthest I've gone in one day is about 14.8 miles. Not all at once. The
former owner says I should get around 35 miles per charge. 35 sounds a
little low??
My question is what is the best way to break in a battery pack?
Also, I am slowely getting used to shifting the EV. Do you have any do's or
don'ts when shifting that I should know about.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am new to all of this.
Thanks,
Carmen Farruggia
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe they were both first available in 1997, though the
Prius wasn't available in the US until 2000, or was it 1999.
L8r
Ryan
David Roden wrote:
> On 15 Sep 2005 at 11:21, bruce parmenter wrote:
>
>>With no public fanfare, Toyota has agreed to
>>let customers resume driving about 1,000 discontinued electric
>>vehicles that were a precursor to the popular Prius gas-electric
>>hybrid.
>
>
> The RAV4-EVs were not precursors to the Prius. Unless I have the chronolgy
> wrong, the Prius was on the road in Japan well before the RAV4-EV was
> introduced in the states.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone,
This may be a little off topic, but I felt it important to get the
information out there. As someone in this group once said to me upon seeing
my own EV project, "It's good to see you put your money where your mouth
is." I took one more step this evening in my own EV crusade. Some two weeks
ago or so I had posted on some thread that someone should produce a Podcast
on EVs as there didn't seem to be any available and it might be a great way
to get the word out. I was inspired by the radio interview that our own Doug
Hartley did for CBC radio one and I decided to do my own little EV
broadcasting.
For those of you who don't know what a Podcast is, here is a quick
explanation. The word Podcast is made up of the name iPod for Apple's MP3
player and the term broadcasting. In reality it is simply a kind of radio
show recorded in .mp3 format that one can listen to on either a computer or
a portable music device like an iPod or any other kind of MP3 player. It has
taken off in a big way on the Internet and Podcasts can be found on just
about any subject. My own podcasts can be found at the following site.
http://podcast.slandi.net
or you can download it directly at
http://www.slandi.net/podcast/SPEVseriesPart1.mp3
Please be patient when downloading the podcast as it is almost 10 MB in size
and I have a slow outgoing connection.
Please forgive me for the cheesey electric whine in the intro music, I was
trying to find something more fitting, I think for the next Part in the
series I may remove it.
In any case give the EV podcast a listen and tell me what you think, I'm
open to all types of suggestions, criticizms, etc...
It's my own way to repay all of you for this awesome discussion list, the
amazing work you are all doing and the wisdom you are imparting.
OK enough of the praises, back to our regular EV stuff!
regards,
Stefano
http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
You should be able to drill that with a decent quality titanium nitride
"jobber" length drill in a drill press. Drill bits are made even longer if
you look in the right places. I needed a 24" .375 drill once, found it here
in Phx without too much trouble. Or you can make your own by brazing a drill
rod extension onto a regular length bit. I am sure there is a tool and die
supplier somewhere near you. Normally a drill won't wander too much unless
it is not sharp, you are using too much pressure or there is a chip buildup
on one cutting edge. You need to back out of the hole once in awhile to
clear the chips and be sure to use the proper cutting fluid for the alloy
you are drilling. The EDM solution sounds kinda fun to try tho, let us know
how it goes. Regards, David Chapman.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Metal cutting saws.. was Plasma Cutter
On a related note: I have a 8" x 12" x 1/2" slab of aluminum that I
would like to use as a water-cooled heatsink. If I could drill a few
holes in it edgewise, I could make a "U" shaped path inside it, and
thread the ends for fittings (and a plug for the 3rd hole that connects
the ends of the first two.
Trouble is, a normal long twist drill bit wanders too much. I think it
would break out the side before I could drill that deep.
One suggest was a mill-end bit, which (I think) means the end is square
and not pointed. But I don't know of one long enough one to drill 10"
deep hole.
Paul Compton suggested an arc discharge cutter. Basically, you "drill"
with a carbon rod and high-current DC power supply. Push the rod close
to the aluminum, strike an arc to burn off a chunk, back off the rod to
clear the debris, and repeat. Since the rod never actually touches the
aluminum, it goes straight in, allowing perfectly straight holes.
It sounds like a great way to make these holes. But what's the catch?
Will it work? I have plenty of high-current DC available (as any EVer
will :-) But what kind of current and voltage should be used? Has anyone
tried anything like this?
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
So, since everybody is whining about EVILbus and RS2323, I whipped
together a schematic for an RS232 to EVILbus adapter.
Completely untested at this point of course.
Fits on a 1.25" x 2.45" PC Board.
http://www.casadelgato.com/EV/RS232toEVILbus.gif
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The charger should be set with switches 1,3,& 4 turned on and ready for
Regs.
You should be able to "just plug them in" and they should work.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 6:16 AM
Subject: regs to pfc
> Nick in Naples fl. is getting ready to hook his Reg and PFC 50 together ,
> dose he have to set these little switches or just pulg in cable form reg
to
> charger? These are the regs that Rich is selling,,,, Mark 2 maybe , where
> bought 6 months ago .
> Steve Clunn
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How does the Delta Q compare the Russco Charger. I the think the Russco is
a PFC. I don't know about the Delta Q. LR........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefano Landi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: Highway capable conversion on a budget?
Hey guys,
I think I wrote the book on that budget-minded EV thing. So far my project
including the donor car has cost me $1,350 CDN, so about $1K USD. Here is
my
shopping list
Alltrax 7245 for $525 USD (Cloud Electric)
Delta Q charger $500 USD
Adapter (building myself)
hub (buying locally and adapting it to my flywheel as per
grassrootsev.com<http://grassrootsev.com>video)
meters, cables and such $200 USD
so my budget for my EV project is about $4K CDN, it may be difficult, but
this is my goal and my expectations for performance are in keeping with
this
budget.
You can see the progress on my website http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
regards,
Stefano
http://fest-ev-a.slandi.net
On 9/16/05, Robert Chew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi John,
Me myself am doing the cheapest conversion i can get my hands on. I am
also
a uni student, in second last year doing this conversion project as my
thesis so i know the meaning of BUDGET!!.
I have also tried to use a forklift motor, gcart motors etc. but at the
end
of a day you can't really specify a conversion based on cost. If you are
going to design something that is basically SLOW and cost 3000 then so be
it. There will be a point in time where you would want to upgrade, add
more
stuff in, and then there is where its going to cost you more. Because,
new
motor, new adapter plate, new controller, new batteries, new mounts. It
almost as if its going from square one. I too work part time, and i made
up
my mind to convert my Fiat126 into something with the minimal performance
using 6.7Inch, alltrax, trojan SCS225 which i know some of you out there
will kill me for! and also the wiring and installation i do myself. That
already cost me 4K aussie dollars and then i need to add some more for
batteries and controller and also suspension upgrade, registration,
mechanical work. Its bout costing me 6-7K and thats a bare minimal slow,
low
range vehicle. However, the parts i use are new. if you can get free and
extremely cheap parts, then go for it. But over here the market is small
and
not many second hand parts like motors and controller.
But anyway i wish you all the best. And yeah don't go partying for a
couple
weekends and you'd be suprised how much money that can save you,, and
could
even buy you a controller etc..
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,
Having just purchased a new battery ($35) and autobystarter
($50) for my Helix, and facing the need for a new starter
($155), drivebelt ($75) and muffler ($250), I'm once again
thinking about my options for a conversion. Here are
some thoughts I'd like to throw out:
I'm looking for a motor. I'd prefer something less than
about 12" long (not including the shaft) and capable of
7000 RPMs, to eliminate the need to regear the rear-end
or have the motor sticking out of the plastic. I think
about 10kw would do the trick. (It would get me to
freeway speeds, which I probably wouldn't need, but it
matches the capability of the ICE version.) Another
option is to dig into the rear reduction (there are
a couple of reductions to get to the final 6.6 drive)
and directly drive it with an eTek, but I'm
concerned about the low power output and extra work
involved. Any other thoughts or suggestions?
If I go with a series motor, I could use a contactor
controller. With it, I could either belt-drive
the rear-end directly or keep the CVT and just lock
up the centrifugal clutch for better performance.
In this application, regen is not necessary, so cheap
and surplus is fine.
I need a charger that can work with an Avcon station.
I don't need a lot of amps, so something as compact as
possible would be perfect. I'm thinking AGM's and
regs, so I need something that can be completely
unattended.
Thanks for any ideas.
Tim
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nope, Not fully charged.
You may be experiencing some storage latency or sulphation symptoms from
sitting in storage or transit. It could also be a low acid concentration.
I have a set with the same problem right now.
Let them trickle charge at about 5 amps. Stop charging when the voltage
stops rising. It may take many hours or overnight. When they are done
charging, they should come up to about 7.2 to 7.5 volts on the charger or
6.45 volts 4 hours after charging.
I will keep you informed how the therapy works on this set and you let me
know how your set recovers.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: Sporting an EV Grin
>
> About 4 hours after disconnecting
>
>
> on 9/16/05 11:10 PM, David Roden at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>
>
>
> > On 16 Sep 2005 at 17:13, Ben wrote:
> >
> >> I mounted and connected the orignal Hobart Bros off-board
> >> charger, but it doesn't seem to taper off as described in the manual.
It
> >> started around 15 amps and got donwn to 10 and stayed there. My
batteries
> >> now
> >> show 88.8 volts for the 84 volt pack. 6.34 volts per battery. I
assume this
> >> is fully charged.
> >
> > Did you measure that voltage while the charger was connected, or after
> > disconnecting it? If the latter, how LONG after disconnecting it?
> >
> >
> > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> > EV List Assistant Administrator
> >
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> > or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> > Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
> > send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ben,
Your pack is far from charged at 88.8V if it just came off charging. You
should expect an 84V pack of flooded batteries to be brought up to about
104V for the finishing charge. It seems to me from what you describe like
they need more charging. Monitor the pack voltage while charging and probe
each battery individually while charging, to see how they are all doing. If
the batteries are quite unbalanced, (voltages differing by 0.2V or more near
the end of charging) it would be helpful to temporarily connect a lightbulb
load, (such as a brake light bulb with aligator clips attached) across each
battery reaching 7.5V early, compared to the others still at 7V or less.
In that way you avoid over-charging the better batteries until the weaker
ones are brought up to charge.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 5:13 PM
Subject: Sporting an EV Grin
I took the 1983 Kurbwatt on its maiden voyage this morning. I have had the
truck for a couple of years with the intention of making a hot rod out of
it, though my plan now pales in comparison to Gone Postal. With gas
prices
hovering around $3 / gallon, I decided to go ahead and replace the 6v golf
cart batteries with a fresh set and get it on the road while I collect the
parts and cash to upgrade it later. It only has 15k miles on it and
everything seems to work. It has better acceleration than I expected and
drove quite well. I mounted and connected the orignal Hobart Bros
off-board
charger, but it doesn't seem to taper off as described in the manual. It
started around 15 amps and got donwn to 10 and stayed there. My batteries
now show 88.8 volts for the 84 volt pack. 6.34 volts per battery. I
assume
this is fully charged. Not sure as this my first pack of flooded
batteries.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone that has had experience with the
Hobart charger or with a Kurbwatt. It would appear that the charger was
originally wired for 3 phase and was converted to single phase somewhere
along the way. I will send photos to the album soon
Ben
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/384.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hard to believe this 1984 Fiero bought from a
Lexington , KY auction made it's way to CA. Who knows
where it is now!!
Rod
http://www.zapworld.com/cars/salecars.asp
Looks like your's is 5th down on the page. My VW bug is 12th down. These
guys really mark up the stock. Stuff doesn't move very fast. Wonder how
they make money? Lawrence Rhodes............
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Stefano
Just listened to the podcast, I will look forward to the next one. As for
the "whine", I did not find it objectionable but it may be in one of my
hearing loss ranges.
respectfully,
John Neiswanger
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We've talked about this before. I've found out that Honda Ford(escort) and
Kia use the same bolt pattern. I bet the Insight wheels and tires will bolt
right up to my Aspire or a Festiva. That is a great idea you have there for
the Think Neighbor. I'll tell my friend. Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2005 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: Low Rolling Resistance Tire Numbers
Insight tires are Bridgestone Potenza RE92 165/65/14, Prius Tires were the
same in 175/65/14. To my understanding these are the only two tires in the
Potenza RE92 Series which are LRR (and made in Japan). If you look at the
tire weights specifically they are somewhat lower for their size compared
to the rest of the line. I was considering putting a set of them on my
Saturn, which has 15" wheels, but I kind of decided against.
Another at least semi LRR tire is the Goodyear Integrity which is used on
the HSD Prius. It doesn't necessarily boast LRR, but they do say "fuel
economy" on their web page about the line of tires. A friend of mine's
family had a production S-10E which originally had the LRR tiger paw tires
which aren't made any more and they put Integrities on it and the range
stayed the same. I'm thinking this is the tire that's going to go on the
Saturn.
That said, if you want the lowest rolling resistance possible go with the
Insight tire. I had a used set of them that I put on my GEM car with some
pretty amazing results. I was only looking to increase my max top end to
more than 25mph, but I got other gains as well. It had 10" wheels with fat
"turf" tires, which deffinitely do not lend themselves to efficiency. I
bought some cheapy 14" alloy wheels from Pep Boys and had the old set of
tires mounted on them. The difference was amazing, it would glide forever
and I gained range even though I was going faster. On a typical day my
little 4 mile commute I'd burn off ~10% of the charge according to the
display with the stock tires. With the Potenza's I couldn't get it to
register I had used anything, and I was going ~5mph faster for the same
distance. Granted I don't have much of any instrumentation on it, but I
could tell the difference was big.
Also an interesting thing, I raved about the Potenza's at evtrader and got
the attention of a Ford Think Neighborhood owner who had a big hill to
climb to his house. With his similar stock turn tires it was a 15mph grunt
up the hill while loosing speed. He went to the much larger diameter
Potenza's (same Insight tire) and actually made it where he would
accelerate up the same hill at closer to 30mph! Sounds crazy, but I got an
email from him the first time he drove on them that he was so tickled pink
at how much better the car drove on them.
I occasionally get to work on friend's GEM cars and every one of them has
seen mine with 14's on it and they immediately had to have them so three
days ago I just put in an order for my 4th set of that tire.
If you can fit them, they're worth it.
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 16 Sep 2005 at 22:14, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> How does the Delta Q compare the Russco Charger. I the think the Russco is a
> PFC. I don't know about the Delta Q.
Both the Delta Q and Russco chargers are PFC. I don't see a power factor
spec for the Russco, but the Delta-Q claims a power factor of greater than
0.99.
The Delta Q is fully isolated, the Russco is not.
The Delta Q will operate at full power from AC inputs between 85 and 265
volts (universal input voltage). Most Russco models are 120 volts only,
although they do have one model that is universal input.
The Delta-Q has the regulatory approvals one expects in a commercial product
(UL, CSA, and CE) and meets FCC limits for EMI emissions. I don't know
whether the Russco has those approvals; maybe Russ is reading this and can
respond.
The Delta-Q implements a four stage charge algorithm with (I assume) built
in microprocessor control. The Russco has a simpler algorithm - CC and CV
followed by a timed finish stage - and I don't think it has a micro onboard.
One advantage of the Russco here is that although its algorithm is
obviously less sophisticated, it's easily end-user-configurable.
The Delta Q charger is a fixed voltage device and supports batteries up to
only 72 volts. (One could use two for 144 volts.) The Russco is suited to
a range of battery voltages from 84 to 120 volts nominal. For batteries
above 120 volts it requires an extra-cost boost transformer ($125).
The Delta-Q is a 12 amp charger, the Russco is 11 amps for the 18-120 model.
Russco does make a 17.5 amp charger (model 30-120), but it requires a 24
amp input (!!) and costs $990.
Russco also has a 120/240 volt model (50-240) at $1090. This charger
apparently also requires a separate $125 boost transformer, though it's not
clear to me whether that's needed for all battery voltages.
For a 144v battery, one could split the pack and use two Delta Q chargers,
yielding a 2400 watt, isolated, micro-controlled charger at around US$1000.
This seems like a pretty good deal to me.
Of course it depends on what you're trying to do. If you expect to do lots
of re-arranging of your battery and experimenting with different voltages
and types, something that is easier to configure than the Delta-Q might be a
better choice, even if it is not as easy on the battery.
Delta Q specs here:
http://www.delta-q.com/quiq3datasheet.pdf
Russco specs here:
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=168&product_id=1619
http://www.evparts.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=168&product_id=1629
Roger Stockton works for Delta-Q, probably he can tell you more.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You wouldn't need the 232 chip if you're interfacing with a controller
or most non-computer processors.
R1 and T1 appear unnecessary. The gain is set by R3/R4 and the opto
(not too far from unity), the ADM202 doesn't require a lot of current.
R2IN need not be hooked to R1IN, setting it to gnd or +5v will lower the
power.
D1 appears to be a protection diode for CNY17's LED, but if so it's best
to put it in parallel in reverse with the diode.
What's the explanation of this circuit? I'm not getting some of the
schematic; TX doesn't seem to be able to drive anything.
Am I correct in guessing that the principle is to have the RX and TX
combined and the software reads to bus to decide when it's transmitting
and when it's receiving? And someone is supposed to drive the bus to 1
and the transmit is an open collector strategy? I know the open
collector is really handy for operating without a power supply but it's
the last thing you'd want to do if you want to avoid noise.
What baud rate and cable length is intended?
Danny
John G. Lussmyer wrote:
So, since everybody is whining about EVILbus and RS2323, I whipped
together a schematic for an RS232 to EVILbus adapter.
Completely untested at this point of course.
Fits on a 1.25" x 2.45" PC Board.
http://www.casadelgato.com/EV/RS232toEVILbus.gif
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> Looking at this page, I see a schematic:
>
> http://aaron.birenboim.com/EV/misc/EVilBusMirror.html
>
> I'm assuming the "node" circuitry is on the left side of the
> isolation, and the dual phono jacks are for daisy-chaining
> devices together.
Correct. Your local node circuitry connects on the left, and the EVILbus
itself is on the right. Not shown are a pair of 150 ohm resistors; one
from +DATA to +12v and one from -DATA to ground. Just one pair of these
resistors are needed for the entire system.
> Has anyone tried going faster than 9600Bps with this bus?
> Any idea of the max data rate?
With the parts and optocouplers shown, a 32-node system with 30 feet of
cable has rise/fall times of about 10% of the bit-time at 9600 baud.
That is an acceptable safety margin.
The next higher standard rate is 19200 baud; but at this speed the
worst-case rise/fall time is 20%. That's getting large enough to cause
errors, especially with crude bit-banger software that only samples once
per bit.
If you want to go faster, you need to use faster, more expensive
optocouplers. You will also have to change part values, as the faster
parts require more power and lower collector load resistances.
> Are there any higher level protocols specified yet?
Lots of them :-) Everyone has their own opinion, and implemented their
own incompatible system.
> I'd assume each node has an address, and the master sends something
> like "device #01, listen." and that device would send back something
> like "Device #01, Ack", and henceforth the rest of the communication
> is between that master and device?
That's one way to do it. I prefer a message-based system, where there is
no master. Each node sends what it knows, and listens for data it wants.
> Has anyone thought of implementing an isolated "1-wire" interface
Lots of people have tried to get reliable isolated "1-wire" systems to
work, but I don't know of any that succeeded.
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Stu or Jan wrote:
>> A major cost of vehicle ownership is insurance.
>>
>> A fellow that I know saved $2,800 in auto insurance for his daughter
>> after
>> converting his automobile to a 'motorcycle'.
>
> It is because currently indeed 3 wheelers (on major roads/freeways)
> such as motorcycles with side cars or Sparrow-likes)
> are indeed smaller than "normal" full sise vehicles If too many
> 3 wheelers being actually about full size vehicles appear on the
> roads, it will be "unfair" to have much lower insurance and legislature
> and policy will change rather quickly wiping out such a distinction.
The probability of that happening is extreemly low. I say, take advantage
of the situation while it exists.
The tiny number that we might build and insure won't even make a
detectable blip in the insurance companies' profits.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There's a wiring problem on R1OUT. The ADM202 doesn't do anything but
change voltage levels, and as long as the drive is reasonably strong,
the original logic bus (5v?) should be able to drive IC4 directly. By
passing it through ADM202 the high level will be over 5v and it will
reverse bias IC4's LED which is not acceptable without a reverse
protection diode. It is also driving it with 14v when it goes into
forward bias which is not really necessary.
Danny
Danny Miller wrote:
You wouldn't need the 232 chip if you're interfacing with a controller
or most non-computer processors.
R1 and T1 appear unnecessary. The gain is set by R3/R4 and the opto
(not too far from unity), the ADM202 doesn't require a lot of current.
R2IN need not be hooked to R1IN, setting it to gnd or +5v will lower
the power.
D1 appears to be a protection diode for CNY17's LED, but if so it's
best to put it in parallel in reverse with the diode.
What's the explanation of this circuit? I'm not getting some of the
schematic; TX doesn't seem to be able to drive anything.
Am I correct in guessing that the principle is to have the RX and TX
combined and the software reads to bus to decide when it's
transmitting and when it's receiving? And someone is supposed to
drive the bus to 1 and the transmit is an open collector strategy? I
know the open collector is really handy for operating without a power
supply but it's the last thing you'd want to do if you want to avoid
noise.
What baud rate and cable length is intended?
Danny
John G. Lussmyer wrote:
So, since everybody is whining about EVILbus and RS2323, I whipped
together a schematic for an RS232 to EVILbus adapter.
Completely untested at this point of course.
Fits on a 1.25" x 2.45" PC Board.
http://www.casadelgato.com/EV/RS232toEVILbus.gif
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Trouble is, a normal long twist drill bit wanders too much. I think it
> would break out the side before I could drill that deep.
Hmm, I wish I could remember where I saw it, but recently I came across
something designed to do just this.
Basically i was a boring tool with a shaft almost as wide as the hole it
was boring (perhaps a thousanth? smaller) and a short cutting tip. The
stout shaft would hit the sides of the hole and keep it going straight.
It needed to be backed out frequently to clear the chips though.
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Brain fart... I'm looking at R1 totally backwards... TTL this side,
RS232 levels THAT side.
Darn it, if this were an HTML forum I could just delete it.
Danny
Danny Miller wrote:
There's a wiring problem on R1OUT. The ADM202 doesn't do anything but
change voltage levels, and as long as the drive is reasonably strong,
the original logic bus (5v?) should be able to drive IC4 directly. By
passing it through ADM202 the high level will be over 5v and it will
reverse bias IC4's LED which is not acceptable without a reverse
protection diode. It is also driving it with 14v when it goes into
forward bias which is not really necessary.
Danny
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Paul and All,
"Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On Sep 16, 2005, at 9:34 AM, Ralph Merwin wrote:
> The tires that come on the Prius are crap. They look like the same
> tires
> that come on the Insite, but it's common for tires on a Prius to loose
> pressure quickly, which leads to the outer edges wearing quickly. I
> tried
> to monitor the tire pressure on my wife's Prius regularly, and usually
> had
> to add air, but the edges wore out.
First, I think the Prius uses P175/65R14 while the
I found these at Costco for $68 each
Insight uses slightly smaller 165 tires. I'd check but my wife is at work right
now.
These were $61 each and probably the ones I'll use. Anyone who
uses these, could you comment on them?
Any other lower priced LLR tires? Preferably skinnier, less than
165mm wide?
Thanks,
Jerry Dycus
Second, we have 36,500 miles on the original Bridgestone Potenza RE92
tires (2002 Prius.) Perhaps some of those tires where short lived but
ours seem just fine. I have been running them at 44psi front, 40psi
rear. I don't think I'll quite make it to 40k miles, but that is mostly
because WA requires 3/32nd inch tread instead of 1/16th inch. That
reminds me - I need to rotate them one last time.
They are certainly a tire that I would consider for an EV, YMMV
Paul "neon" G.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 9:58 PM -0700 9/16/05, John G. Lussmyer wrote:
So, since everybody is whining about EVILbus and RS2323, I whipped
together a schematic for an RS232 to EVILbus adapter.
Completely untested at this point of course.
Fits on a 1.25" x 2.45" PC Board.
http://www.casadelgato.com/EV/RS232toEVILbus.gif
Hello All,
I have not been following these threads since I have been out of
town, but I'm back tonight and noticed this message.
I also have a circuit that came from Lee Hart.
http://www.cafeelectric.com/temp/Dongle1.0.pdf
I sell them fully assembled for $25 (I think). Probably could sell
just PCB's too if that was preferred. This circuit works on many
computers but may require a extra supply on those with weak RS-232
ports.
Here is a picture of some of them assembled.
http://www.cafeelectric.com/temp/DonglePic1.JPG
I have not put them on the website since there only seem to be a few
of us doing EVIL development at this time.
I also have a low resolution 6 battery monitor board good for 12V
modules, but no finished software for it yet.
--
-Otmar-
http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914
http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Zilla controllers in production, see them here.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Tim and All,
Tim Stephenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Regarding load, if you tossed half the rear-end weight by making a trike out
of it, the wheel would still be supporting the same load. Was weight the
load you were discussing, or are there other forces I'm not considering?
You are smart about wondering. To be sucessful converting a front
wheel drive car to a 3wheeler, you must reduce the rear weight by1/2 so the
single wheel left has to carry just 1/3 of the vehicles weight. And then you
can't put much cargo weight in the rear anymore, certainly not batteries..
While when converting to EV, you can use batts in front to offset
some rear weight, you still need to reduce the rear weight some like removing
the rear bumper, shortening the body, ect.
As far as David's post about I wish, what if, ect and any other
questions, they are encouraged though some have abused that badly which is what
my and Don's post was about. After the 50th what if post by the same person,
it gets old.
In general, questions are encouraged by newbies as it gives a
chance to educate the other newbies on the list. One should read at least a
couple weeks posts in the archive or being online before asking things so not
to ask the same question that was jusy answered.
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
-Tim (EVer Wannabe)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu or Jan"
To:
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: Rear wheel recommendations re: Mike Chancey
>
> It might be easier to use a spindle assembly from a vehicle with CV
> joints. Simply strip the half-shaft, balls, and cage from the joint, then
> have the outside machined to mount your drive sprocket. This way you
would
> have a single trailing arm with the wheel assembly on one side and the
> drive chain on the other. You could use a spindle from either a front
> wheel drive vehicle, or one of the four wheel drive trucks or SUVs that
> uses CV shafts in the rear. Another option would be to have the sprocket
> mounted on the brake drum itself. Either way you are going to have some
> interesting engineering to get it to all fit together.
>
> We aren't big on three wheelers in Missouri, too many potholes. :)
>
> Sorry about the potholes. There is enough spam around the net to fill
them
> in, I am sure.
>
> My concern is to use a single spindle to support what 2 spindles used to
> support.
>
> In the case of the Buick and the Fox, I have been informed that the
original
> spindle/wheel/tire was used.
>
> This seems a little light. Perhaps the steel is strong enough, but I
> certainly think that wider rubber and a higher load index tire would be
> desirable. For legal reasons, I would not like to defend using one out of
a
> pair previously employed.
>
> What say you Mike?
>
> Stu
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.21/96 - Release Date: 9/10/05
>
>
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
