EV Digest 4759

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) More photos online
        by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) RE: Peugeot 206 + 15kW Siemens (copy, with US units)
        by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: Which Nedra class?
        by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) World Solar Challenge
        by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) RE: Low Budget - but useful commuter EV
        by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph!
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph!
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph!
        by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Re: White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph!
        by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) Re: White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph!
        by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: Peugeot 206 + 15kW Siemens?
        by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Idea for Park
        by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Moment of rotation changes for EV conversion,
        by "stU" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) Moment of rotation changes for EV conversion,
        by "stU" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) RE: World Solar Challenge
        by "djsharpe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Re: World Solar Challenge
        by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: Can batteries be mounted up front ahead of the bumper?
        by "Mark Grasser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) 
        by "stU" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All

Put 4 more photos online. Under the tray (no tray yet) is a big box that will contain batteries, charger, control gear, vacuum pump and other bits and pieces. Photos show the front of the box with stuff in it (trial fit-up to sort out cable-ways and other stuff) and the motor/Zilla components.

<http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/Daihatsu-pics-01>http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/Daihatsu-pics-01

Feedback welcome.

James
1978 Daihatsu cab/chassis truck under conversion

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Have you investigated lightening the current car?

A mini can lose 140 lbs via lighter wheels and tires (probably an
extreme case!).

Lightweight racing seats.

You might be able to remove some sound deadener, it's not as needed
in an EV.

Plastic windows and fiberglass body parts.

If you are made out of money, LiPo batteries.

--- Don Cameron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> ...
> If I could do it
> again, I would convert a lighter vehicle.  Less power required for
> acceleration and hill climbing.
> ...





                
__________________________________ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

> In a message dated 9/24/05 2:14:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

>           It is a mystery why Dennis would care, however.

Could it be because we have been talking about building a pro-street type EV
pickup and that I been planning to join Nedra when I had my door slammer
done? Maybe so I could drive it for NEDRA EVents? We figured that John and
the others in similar ET territory would welcome the competition.

>           Since Dennis is not a NEDRA member, he can't set a NEDRA record.
>  It is a mystery why he would care what NEDRA class a car would fit into,
or
>  why he would care what opinion (especially my opinion) NEDRA has about
it.

The answer is pretty obvious as stated in your signature line but I will
copy it here IE: "Bill Dube' National Technical Director, National Electric
Drag Racing Association". He wanted an answer from "the horses mouth". Just
like any other EVDL member or any potential racer would want to do before
considering building a new car. And I think he deserved a respectful answer.
Then again I asked pretty much the same questions last year regarding
building up a Citicar but I guess I was lucky, I merely got no answer. From
either of the NEDRA officials that I felt could best address my questions
and concerns. I decided against building the car since I could not justify
the investment without a green light from the "Powers that Be".

>           Dennis resigned his NEDRA membership a few years ago. He also
>  actively disparages NEDRA quite consistently.

He definately did resign his membership and it is to the detriment of NEDRA
that they let him. If what he has related to me is true (and I have no
reason to disbelieve him) I don't blame him one bit.

You know Bill, I have learned something valuable while dealing with my
disolving marriage, and that is: In all disagreements there are 3 sides.
Your side, the other persons side... and the truth!!

As far as actively disparaging NEDRA, funny but I have never once heard him
say an ill word regarding NEDRA to the public, especially at the track where
it might have some meaning. In fact last night I was talking to a couple of
young (early 20's) door slammer racers that came up to admire his car and
tell Dennis that they had been admiring his efforts for some time and they
thought his car was "totally sick" (This is high praise from their
generation) and they indeed felt that EVs WERE the future of motorsports.
Dennis even allowed me to show them everything on Current Eliminator that
could be seen without pulling the body panels (no time, between rounds) and
he answered every techincal question that I passed to him even tho he was
very busy getting ready for a run. And of course I feel kinda the fool as I
wrote down and gave them the NEDRA and EVDL web address on the only scrap of
paper I had handy, a Super E raffle ticket that we had bought to support the
Super E guys. Oh well, if they won they will hopefully be thinking EVs with
the extra cash, LOL.

>The irony is staggering. :^)

Yah, isn't it tho.

Bill, I have always respected your talents and efforts, still do. I do have
to tell you that besides being offended by your treatment of someone I
greatly respect and that I have grown to call friend I am ashamed for you.
Your post was way beneath you, I think you are made of better stuff. I feel
you seriously owe Dennis an apology and should examine your reasons for
having issues with Dennis. Maybe you aren't as right as you think!

If this puts me on your shitlist too I am sorry, but I can live with it. I
felt someone (besides Rich, thanks MM) spoke up. I don't expect us to all
hold hands and sing the Coca Cola song, just cut each other the slack we all
deserve. Tough enough just paddling upstream -- isn't it?

David Chapman.

>  At 04:17 PM 9/22/2005, you wrote:
>  >Dennis wrote:
>  >
>  > > If a person had a pro street truck(NHRA)tube frame, fiber body fitted
>  > in such
>  > > a way as to be totaly street legal and driven on the street with a
lic.
> and
>  > > insurance which class would it belong to in nedra?
>  >
>  >If this is the extent of the "rules", I'd say Street conversion...
>  >
>  >"Street conversion vehicles are licensed and legal for driving on the
>  >street. "
>  >
>  >If not, then the "Concept vehicles" class..
>  >
>  >http://www.nedra.com/records-sc.html
>  >http://www.nedra.com/records-cv.html
>  >
>  >Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] to find out for certain.
>
>     Bill Dube'
>     National Technical Director
>     National Electric Drag Racing Association
>     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ^^^Yes, I did resign my lifetime nedra membership.    Why?  bottom line-
> You!!                         ^^^I,and my crew do promote EVS most each
and every
> weekend at Nhra events,bracket races,car shows,and my sponsor related
events
> without any negitive comments about nedra.
>
>                                           ^^^I did not say"I" was going to
> drive this truck at a nedra event for a record,just own it and use it as
daily
> driver,and possibly use it at NHRA events.That being said could not a
nedra
> member drive this truck for a record?
>                                       Dennis Berube     With thousands of
> SAFE accident free qt.mi.ev runs.
>
>

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all,

The World Solar Challenge is currently running here in Aus.

http://www.wsc.org.au/2005/competition/ 

Mark

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 26 September 2005 11:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Low Budget - but useful commuter EV

I am trying to put together a low budget EV for commuting back and forth to 
work only.  My requirements are as follows:
1. Speed - 25 - 45 MPH.  Must be able to cruise with no issues at 45 MPH,
but 
50 MPH OK, but not necessary.
2. Range - I only need ~15 miles.  It is the same route everyday.
3. Environment - some hills, but most of them are in the 25 and 35 MPH
areas.
4. Temperature range 32 F - 95 F.
5. Cost - the primary concern - must be inexpensive - Thrifty, but not so 
cheap that it is useless.
6. I want to be able to use only 2nd and 3rd gear and 0 - 25 MPH must be
fast 
enough to safely get through intersections in heavy traffic.  That was a 
serious safety issue with 2 of my past 3 EVs.  I really need good
acceleration - 
that is ultraritical to me.

My plan is / was:
1. Motor - Jack & Heinz G-29-88 generator (from www.surpluscenter.com, 
#6-936).  I planned to use this because of cost and it has been "proven" to
work in 
other cars.  Disadvantages - shunt wound = low torque on startup.  It may
not 
have enough torque for me.  I'd really like feedback form others who have
used 
this motor or similar ones in the past with focus on acceleration 
performance.  My other options are used lift motors of various sizes.  I
have a good 
source where I can get an inexpensive series motor out of a lift, but it
will most 
likely be 24 - 36 V (nominal) and 8 - 10 HP (nominal).  Typically he has 
about 7.5 - 8" diameter.  Not sure of the efficiency, make or model, or even

condition so I am very concerned about going through the trouble / cost of
mounting 
one of these in a car only to find out that it won't work.  Otherwise, I'd
be 
interested in purchasing someone's used motor / adapter if it is proven out
- 
even if it is a home made job.  Feel free to respond with whatever you have 
up for sale.

2. Controller - GE EV-1B (already have this).  All three of my other EVs
have 
used the GE EV-1.  I know it well and like the way it works.  It may be old 
school, but it works well in my experience.  Right now configured with a 24
- 
48 V card that I could run at 48 V.  I "think" it will go up to 60 V as- is,

but if someone could confirm their experience with doing this, that would be

great.  Otherwise, I have to change out the card to a 24 - 84 V card, and
then I 
can run it at 72 or even 84 V.  I already know that the EV-1B base is good
up 
to 84 V with no modifications - past experience.  I plan to use the 1A
bypass 
option where you can get full power if you put your foot all the way to the 
floor (it totally bypasses the SCR once it ramps up as fast as it can for
those 
not familiar with that option).  I know some people don't like this option, 
but I had it in my first EV and I thought it was great.  Used correctly, it 
works well.  Used incorrectly, it can be dangerous.  I like it, so unless
someone 
can relay some reasons why it is not a good idea, I'd like to keep it in the

plans.   Maybe it is too hard on the batteries.  Safety concerns?

3. Batteries - 200 sets of 7.2 V, 1.7 AH NiCD battery packs (that I got an 
unbelievable deal on, if only there had been more) configured at 50.4 V,
47.6 
AH.  Not enough, so I need to do something like add a few more batteries.  I

could configure them at 72 V, 17 AH and put them in parallel with a string
of 6 
large 12 V deep cycle marine batteries for a total rating of 72 V ~100 AH.
Or, 
should I just go with the typical golf car batteries that I had in all the 
other cars?  Maybe 10, 6 V deep cycle 200 AH golf cart batteries.  I want to

keep the battery weight down.  The NiCDs do this.  If I go with lead acid,
I'd 
use 6 V if I go 48 - 60V.  At 72 or 84 V, I think I need to be into 12 V to
keep 
the weight down.  Any suggestions?

----Definitely, with the battery option, keep them all the same type,
condition and also capacity. Having deep cycle batteries inline or parallel
with ni-cad's with different capacities will have different discharge rates
and hence will decrease the lifetime of your battery pack. I would recommend
using the deep cycle batteries as they can deliver a higher instantaneous
current than nicads. Also If you do the maths, 72 volts times 17 Ah will
give 1224 Wh, which is no way near enough to drive you car more than 8
kilometers. You would be having a max DOD of 80% (short batt life) and
therefore you got only 979.2 Whr left. The you got controller efficiency,
motor efficiency and small wiring losses. 

Definitely go with the lead acid unless you run your motor at higher
voltages.
Cheers

4. The car - small - aerodynamic - 4 speed - cheap - relatively late model -

parts available - car readily available.  Working from that equation, I end
up 
with a stripped down Geo Metro.  That should work well as others have
already 
shown.

5. The timeline / resources - I'd like to put it together in ideally 40
hours 
(not likely in my experience) but I am willing to spend 80 - 90 hours 
assembling prior to the first road test.  I have access to a well equipped
machine 
shop with all the tools I would need to fabricate an adapter plate and
coupling. 
 I also have my own CAD station Pro/E and SolidWorks so I can design up 
whatever I need.  But, I am not against buying one new or used to save some
money.  
The coupling is the most critical component in the drivetrain in my mind and

I want to be sure it is going to work and not run out of round and ruin the 
motor bearings.  Can anyone share their experience making a good shaft
coupling 
- what grade of steel, typical wall thickness used, off the shelf, 
antibacklash, etc.

I'd really appreciate the advice of some experts.  My last 3 EVs have left a

lot to be desired.  The first one was very cheap - fork lift motor - 36 V, 
small fiberglass body - cruising speed was 30 MPH and that was about it -
useless 
to me where I live.  The second one was the 79 ETV-1 prototype.  A very good

car in its day, but expensive and very hard to work on and get parts for.
The 
third one was the 80 jet electra - 120 V - OK, but a lot of battery weight 
gave poor performance - and the controller was too small for that big /
heavy of 
a car - acceleration was severely lacking - hard to get parts for.  I think
I 
can do much better designing my own with my own set of requirements.  Please

help with your advice based on your experience if you can.

Thanks,

Steve Powers
Atlanta, GA

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

The title says it all! The 12.424 came on the 5th run of 7 total runs for the night....nothing broke, sparked, or zorched, with the car simply running reliably all night long.

We had a full and productive day on Saturday, where Tim and I made several suspension mods. We added travel limiting chains to the front A arms to keep the springs from flopping loose during front end lift (as they had been doing), and we removed the front sway bar to help unload the front end to help in weight transfer to the back. We also planned on softening the rear tire air pressure a bit, too, once we were at the track. The DC-DC converter was toasted badly, as the inside was a charred mess of blown components! Tim and I added a removable Orbital to the trunk that snapped into circuit via a 50 amp Anderson quick disconnect to subsidize the car's 12V system during the trips to and from the track.

After a relaxing day of wrenching on the car together, Tim and I left for the drag track at around 6:30 pm. Tim teched in while I staged the work service truck in our pit area. We had the usual crowd surrounding the car. At the track, we were going to program the Zilla's Vallet mode to come on with a flick of a dash switch that would reduce motor volts during the burnout to eliminate any unwanted vaporization of motor parts.

Though the night turned out terrific, the first three runs were a comedy of errors:

1st run, 8:11 pm.....I had forgotten to charge my lap top, so the Mac would not power up to where we could reprogram the Zilla for a Valet mode to give us motor over-volt burnout protection :-( While Tim's wife traveled back to the Wayland home to get the computer power supply, I made the command decision for Tim not to do a burnout, even though with its newfound level of power the car absolutely needs a sticky burnout to get traction off the line. Without the changes to the Zilla, a burnout with a parallel motor shift could bring on a repeat of the Woodburn motor zorch we had. Tim did as instructed, passed on doing a burnout, and leaving the line with the rear tires spinning wildly and smoking lightly, the car had a so-so 60 ft. time of 1.869 but still pulled off a crisp 13.118 ET @98.08 mph.

2nd run, 9:15 pm...There was about an hour between runs due to Zilla programming, charging, and waiting our turn to get a run in amongst about 100 cars (a light Saturday night). With a dash switch selectable detuned valet mode now available, Tim did a smoke'n burnout which brought the crowd to their feet! Following a successful burnout (no arcing or sparking at all), Tim launched White Zombie with both front tires off the ground and nailed a 1.68 second 60 ft. time. I had however, forgotten to toggle on the S/P contactors and the car never shifted into parallel. Considering this, the 13.034 ET was 'very' impressive...the 93.40 mph wasn't, but considering the entire run was done in series mode with no parallel upshift, it was pretty cool.

3rd run, 9:52 pm...This one's great! A miserable 2.20 60 ft. time, a sucking 9.23 1/8th mile, and whoa....a sizzling 14.64 ET @ 88.48 mph. Yeah, Tim screwed up and left the valet switch on :-)

4th run, 10:31 pm...Tim's face was still red with embarrassment, but he was determined to redeem himself. He did so with a wheel lofting 1.67 60 ft. time, a 7.96 1/8th mile, and a nice 12.750 @ 100.94 mph. This run, got everyone's attention!

5th run, 11:10...I decided it was time to do some tweaking and cranked up the power by adjusting the Zilla to pull an extra 100 amps from the powerful Hawker Aerobatteries at a full 1000 amps over the previous 900 limit. I had also turned up the series mode motor loop current from 1700 to 1850 amps. Rear tire pressure was dropped to 17 psi. Tim launched, and I mean LAUNCHED, White Zombie off the blocks with both front tires about 3-4 inches off the ground. Yeah, White Zombie did a Maniac Mazda charge out of the hole that brought a big WHOA!!!! from the crowd! How's a 1.64 second 60 ft. time sound? How about an insane 7.76 1/8th mile? And, how 'bout that 12.424 ET?

6th run, 11:34 pm...Tim didn't get a great burnout this time, and the slower 1.77 60 ft. time was a result. Even so, he still ran a strong 12.528 @ 104.55 mph. against a super fast, quick, and tweaked Mitsu Eclipse all wheel drive turbo ricer who had been running 12's all night. This run also sealed the deal for the 12.424 ET to qualify as a new NEDRA world record for the SC/A class! Oh yeah...White Zombie creamed the Mitsu off the line and immediately pulled away about 6 cars lengths. Even though he ran a super quick 12.7, the Mitsu was out gunned by the electric car.

7th run, exactly 0:00 am....As a tribute to the electric car's great night, the track allowed us the final run of the night. Tim pulled off a 12.575 @ 104.85 mph...just .15 seconds away from 105 mph! This was the fastest trap speed ever for White Zombie.

The track officials were so pumped, they took pictures of Tim and I in front of the car and handed us a couple more 100 mph club stickers for the car. After such a great night, we had an early am celebration dinner, then Tim drove the Zombie back to the Wayland EV juice bar on the freeway at 'fun' speeds. I 'tried' to keep up in the service truck :-)

See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland

http://www.plasmaboyracing.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

The title says it all! The 12.424 came on the 5th run of 7 total runs for the night....nothing broke, sparked, or zorched, with the car simply running reliably all night long.

We had a full and productive day on Saturday, where Tim and I made several suspension mods. We added travel limiting chains to the front A arms to keep the springs from flopping loose during front end lift (as they had been doing), and we removed the front sway bar to help unload the front end to help in weight transfer to the back. We also planned on softening the rear tire air pressure a bit, too, once we were at the track. The DC-DC converter was toasted badly, as the inside was a charred mess of blown components! Tim and I added a removable Orbital to the trunk that snapped into circuit via a 50 amp Anderson quick disconnect to subsidize the car's 12V system during the trips to and from the track.

After a relaxing day of wrenching on the car together, Tim and I left for the drag track at around 6:30 pm. Tim teched in while I staged the work service truck in our pit area. We had the usual crowd surrounding the car. At the track, we were going to program the Zilla's Vallet mode to come on with a flick of a dash switch that would reduce motor volts during the burnout to eliminate any unwanted vaporization of motor parts.

Though the night turned out terrific, the first three runs were a comedy of errors:

1st run, 8:11 pm.....I had forgotten to charge my lap top, so the Mac would not power up to where we could reprogram the Zilla for a Valet mode to give us motor over-volt burnout protection :-( While Tim's wife traveled back to the Wayland home to get the computer power supply, I made the command decision for Tim not to do a burnout, even though with its newfound level of power the car absolutely needs a sticky burnout to get traction off the line. Without the changes to the Zilla, a burnout with a parallel motor shift could bring on a repeat of the Woodburn motor zorch we had. Tim did as instructed, passed on doing a burnout, and leaving the line with the rear tires spinning wildly and smoking lightly, the car had a so-so 60 ft. time of 1.869 but still pulled off a crisp 13.118 ET @98.08 mph.

2nd run, 9:15 pm...There was about an hour between runs due to Zilla programming, charging, and waiting our turn to get a run in amongst about 100 cars (a light Saturday night). With a dash switch selectable detuned valet mode now available, Tim did a smoke'n burnout which brought the crowd to their feet! Following a successful burnout (no arcing or sparking at all), Tim launched White Zombie with both front tires off the ground and nailed a 1.68 second 60 ft. time. I had however, forgotten to toggle on the S/P contactors and the car never shifted into parallel. Considering this, the 13.034 ET was 'very' impressive...the 93.40 mph wasn't, but considering the entire run was done in series mode with no parallel upshift, it was pretty cool.

3rd run, 9:52 pm...This one's great! A miserable 2.20 60 ft. time, a sucking 9.23 1/8th mile, and whoa....a sizzling 14.64 ET @ 88.48 mph. Yeah, Tim screwed up and left the valet switch on :-)

4th run, 10:31 pm...Tim's face was still red with embarrassment, but he was determined to redeem himself. He did so with a wheel lofting 1.67 60 ft. time, a 7.96 1/8th mile, and a nice 12.750 @ 100.94 mph. This run, got everyone's attention!

5th run, 11:10...I decided it was time to do some tweaking and cranked up the power by adjusting the Zilla to pull an extra 100 amps from the powerful Hawker Aerobatteries at a full 1000 amps over the previous 900 limit. I had also turned up the series mode motor loop current from 1700 to 1850 amps. Rear tire pressure was dropped to 17 psi. Tim launched, and I mean LAUNCHED, White Zombie off the blocks with both front tires about 3-4 inches off the ground. Yeah, White Zombie did a Maniac Mazda charge out of the hole that brought a big WHOA!!!! from the crowd! How's a 1.64 second 60 ft. time sound? How about an insane 7.76 1/8th mile? And, how 'bout that 12.424 ET?

6th run, 11:34 pm...Tim didn't get a great burnout this time, and the slower 1.77 60 ft. time was a result. Even so, he still ran a strong 12.528 @ 104.55 mph. against a super fast, quick, and tweaked Mitsu Eclipse all wheel drive turbo ricer who had been running 12's all night. This run also sealed the deal for the 12.424 ET to qualify as a new NEDRA world record for the SC/A class! Oh yeah...White Zombie creamed the Mitsu off the line and immediately pulled away about 6 cars lengths. Even though he ran a super quick 12.7, the Mitsu was out gunned by the electric car.

7th run, exactly 0:00 am....As a tribute to the electric car's great night, the track allowed us the final run of the night. Tim pulled off a 12.575 @ 104.85 mph...just .15 seconds away from 105 mph! This was the fastest trap speed ever for White Zombie.

The track officials were so pumped, they took pictures of Tim and I in front of the car and handed us a couple more 100 mph club stickers for the car. After such a great night, we had an early am celebration dinner, then Tim drove the Zombie back to the Wayland EV juice bar on the freeway at 'fun' speeds. I 'tried' to keep up in the service truck :-)

See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland

http://www.plasmaboyracing.com

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-09-26, John Wayland wrote:
>
> I had 
> however, forgotten to toggle on the S/P contactors and the car never 
> shifted into parallel. Considering this, the 13.034 ET was 'very' 
> impressive...the 93.40 mph wasn't, but considering the entire run was 
> done in series mode with no parallel upshift, it was pretty cool.

Isn't it the other way around?  Parallel for lower speeds then series
for higher?  Or is that only with PM motors?

-----sharks

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Isn't it the other way around? Parallel for lower speeds then series for higher?

Nope. Off the line the motors are in series and each sees half the motor voltage. At an optimum point during the run, Otmar's controller switches the motors to parallel and each motor now sees the full motor voltage and surges ahead like you hit the turbo button in a video game.

-Ken Trough
Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine
http://visforvoltage.com
AIM - ktrough
FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658)

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-09-26, Ken Trough wrote:
> > Isn't it the other way around?  Parallel for lower speeds then series 
> >for higher?
> 
> Nope. Off the line the motors are in series and each sees half the motor 
> voltage.

Ah!  S/P _motors_, not S/P _batteries_.  Suddenly, it all makes sense.

-----sharks

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Osmo,
  The 15kW I think refers to the continuous rating on these motors. 
The peak (for a shorter time) will be whatever your battery pack can
produce, up to the maximum current limit of the inverter.  For example
with LiIon batteries, you could have more than 250V * 200A = 50kW.
  For accellerating, the motor will probably produce its maximum
torque at least up to 50km/h, so you can roughly work out the time
based on the wheel diameter and gear ratio and weight of your car.
  I am sure you will be able to achieve a higher top speed than 110km/h also.

On 9/24/05, Osmo Sarin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I´m planning to convert Peugeot 206 as my first project, and I´ve been
> offered a Siemens 1LH5118 AC motor with 15 kW rated, 123 Nm max, and
> Simovert 6SV1 short inverter (110-380 V, max DC 280 A, max 80 kW).
>
> According to my own calculations (which may be incorrect) I would need
> much more power, but the seller says 15 kW is enough for my
> requirements, which are:
>
> -total weight (with passengers) 1400 kg
> -top speed 110 km/h
> -acceleration 6 sec 0-50 km/h
>
> -voltage about 300 V
>
> I´d appreciate any comments,
>
> Osmo Sarin
>
>


--

EVan
http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 9/23/05, Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I didn't mean to imply I wasn't going to fix the emergancy brake!.   I
> am talking in addition.
>
> For emergancy stops can't beat an emergancy brake, but for parking the
> car on a slope, parking brakes are actually poor.  They are kind of
> analog, how hard is hard enough?

A handbrake is a *very bad* thing to have to use as an "emergency"
brake, it should only ever be used for this reason if the main brakes
have failed completely.
  The handbrake acts only on the back wheels and will cause the car to
skid and become uncontrollable if applied too hard.  Also, in an
actual emergency most people do pull too hard, and then find that they
can't pull the lever and further to release the pawl.  I've seen this
happen.

> Either you crank them on really hard all the time which can be hard on
> the rotors and such or you risk it slipping. When everything cools the
> tendency for things to contract could mean a slow rolling out of the
> driveway. (Depends on type)

No, it's designed for this purpose, and it works well.

> I think a definitive park would save the emergancy brake for
> emergancies. :-)

If you don't use the handbrake, the cables and adjuster mechanism in
the rear drums will seize up.  Then the brake won't work when you want
it to.

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I found this web site and it shows the effect of removing/adding components
for an EV conversion.

>From  "EV Engineering Guidebook: Electric Vehicle Conversions for the
1980's", by Paul R. Shipps. 

http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/balance.html

stU



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I found this web site and it shows the effect of removing/adding components
for an EV conversion.

>From  "EV Engineering Guidebook: Electric Vehicle Conversions for the
1980's", by Paul R. Shipps. 

http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/balance.html

stU



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Forgive my heresy. These cars are not practical vehicles. If you could
road register them you would become road metal after a 600hp Kenworth &
road train or B double driven by a pill popping crazed driver completed
the passing (I wonder what that strange crunching noise was). The event
is surely an academic exercise.
I await the inquisitors
David
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Mark Fowler
Sent: Monday, 26 September 2005 3:56 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: World Solar Challenge

Hi all,

The World Solar Challenge is currently running here in Aus.

http://www.wsc.org.au/2005/competition/ 

Mark

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On 2005-09-26, djsharpe wrote:
>
> Forgive my heresy. These cars are not practical vehicles.

Geez, really?  I was hoping I could fit the missus, two
kids, a couple of dogs and some fishing gear in there.
Now they're telling me I can't even put a tinnie on the
roof!  Bloody sunlight.

The point is, it's driving research into high efficiency
motors and stuff.  Well, that's the theory.  Same as all
these drag-racin' and chair-rallyin' types might be
helping us out in some subtle manner :-).

-----sharks
-- 
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  <http://zoic.org/sharkey/>
"Can't shake the devil's hand and say you're only kidding" -- TMBG

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Lee,
The more I read your posts the more I am impressed. I will restrain from commenting unless I know what I am talking about. :-)


Mark Grasser


Subject: Re: Can batteries be mounted up front ahead of the bumper?


Didn't CommutaVans have battery packs in the bumpers?

Mark Grasser wrote:
None I ever saw. But even so, they can't go fast enough to hurt
anyone, can they?

ComutaVans have a top speed of over 55 mph. I had one, and it would
reach 60 mph (eventually) on a good day.
--
Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed
citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever
has! -- Margaret Mead
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net


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The Effect of Polar Moment of Inertia
The moment of inertia has to do with a body's resistance to angular
acceleration. Polar refers to the ends. Consequently, the polar moment of
inertia of a vehicle is related to the mass that is located near the front
and rear. The effect of polar mass can be experienced by rotating a dumbbell
back-and-forth around a central axis. The weight concentrated at the ends
makes the barbell resist changes in direction. A ball of equal weight will
reverse directions with little effort because the mass is concentrated at
the center. Most passenger cars are designed with a relatively high polar
moment of inertia. The engine is located over the front or rear axle and the
fuel and luggage are located at the opposite end. The center of the vehicle
is hollow to provide room for the occupants. 
A low polar moment of inertia results in a vehicle with more responsive
handling, but it also produces a more choppy ride. A vehicle with high polar
mass is less nimble, but it offers a smoother ride. Sports cars tend to have
a low polar moment of inertia for nimble handling, and they also tend to
ride more roughly than passenger cars. Normally, a good balance between ride
and handling can be achieved. The designer does not have to decide between
one or the other extreme.
From:  http://www.rqriley.com/suspensn.htm

stU

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