EV Digest 4896
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Small HID light
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Dune Buggy Weight - conversion
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Another current sensor option
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
by Paul Wallace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Small HID light
by "Jamie Marshall \(GAMES\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Digital Panel Meters Common Ground
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: More Zip newbi question
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: More Zip newbi question - clarifying some terms
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: adaptor plate
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Current Sensor (was: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?)
by "John Luck Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
by "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Another current sensor option
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Square holes, was: RE: Digital Panel Meters
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Another current sensor option
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: November meeting of NBEAA
by Nick Carter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) PS economiser & forklift stuff
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Digital Panel Meters Common Ground
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Small HID light
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: adaptor plate
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Pictures of the Saturn
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Pictures of the Saturn
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Another newbi question
by Carmen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Pictures of the Saturn
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) RE: Pictures of the Saturn
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I just received my Trail Tech 10 watt HID (metal halide) light that
I'm going to use on my scooter.
http://www.trailtech.net/atv_light_parts_1.htm
At the bottom of the page.
This little thing kicks *ss! It uses the Welch-Allyn Solarc miniature
metal halide tubes and ballasts. The discharge tube itself is maybe
half the size of a grain of rice. I got the spot variety. It draws
just under an amp from 12 volts. It puts out a brighter spot than my
6 cell Maglite. This is going to be more than enough light for my
scooter.
A couple of these would make excellent lights for mini-EVs. I noticed
on Trail-Tech site that they're going to have a 35 watt version
available soon. I have a W-A 35 watt MR16 mounted HID lamp and
ballast. This thing is brighter than a Q-beam or any conventional
headlight. Two of these, while drawing about the same power as one
conventional light, would work great on any EV.
If you're into that sort of thing, the bluish light has a high kewl
factor too.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Nov 11, 2005, at 5:27 AM, Mark Hanson wrote:
Hi,
I was curious who's done a dune buggy conversion (with doors/cover)
and how much do they weigh?
The VW page in the EV Album only shows Neon's dune buggy
<http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/volkswagen.html> I don't see any
enclosed dune buggies. There are a number of kit cars, though.
Is it easy to find brake etc parts for the old VW undercarraige?
It's easy to find everything for aircooled VWs. Some of it is getting
expensive, though. <http://www2.cip1.com/>
<http://www.bfyobsoleteparts.com/> <http://www.aircooled.net/> are some
sources; there are many more.
What is the typical conversion recepe? A direct drive 7" or use
tranny with an 8" 72 - 84V?
IMHO, direct drive doesn't make a lot of sense in a VW chassis because
there's no separate differential. It's in the tranny (actually a
transaxle). It's also dead easy to hook a motor to the transaxle.
Four bolts held the gas motor on. You can get adapters from several
places like <http://www.evparts.com> <http://www.electroauto.com>. No
additional hardware (like torque rods or motor mounts) needed.
That said, Jay Donnaway and I have spent a few minutes noodling out a
possible design for a direct drive setup. It would use two motors,
mounted where the transaxle used to be, with output shafts facing out
towards the wheels. Long motors like ADCs will need to be staggered
fore-and-aft. Connect the half-shafts to the motors and away you go.
Something like how the Tango and Gone Postal work. Lots of details to
work out, of course. For direct drive you'd want special motors to
take the high revs, or put up with low top speed. Or use some sort of
single-ratio gearbox, like Gone Postal (chain drive) or the Tango (Bert
gearboxes). I'm sure it's doable but not sure it's worth doing.
Jay also thinks there's a simple way to add an electric assist to a
gas-powered VW. Put a pulley between the tranny and the first CV joint
and belt it to an electric motor. Repeat on the other side. Put the
tranny in neutral to have pure electric drive. You could get regen,
but with the motors directly coupled to the half-shafts you can't
generate electricity unless the car is moving. Maybe use a big
alternator? Or jack up the rear end? (Kidding!) Control would be
another issue. Separate accelerator pedal for the electric drive?
The good news is that there's a bunch of room back there to fit in
almost anything you desire.
I spent yesterday lifting the body off of my Ghia. I can take pictures
of the chassis with 8in ADC attached, if anyone's interested.
More pictures available on Jay's blog:
<http://www.karmanneclectric.blogspot.com/>
Thanks, Mark
--
Doug Weathers
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
Bend, Oregon, USA
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I had an idea a while back for an isolated current sensing:
Use a standard shunt of the appropriate size, coupled to an isolation
amplifier such as the iso124 (bandwidth 50Khz) -- this would be powered
by a small dual dc-dc converter.
The whole thing, including shunt could be built for $60-$80. Add a
super-cheap op-amp and drive a meter directly, or adjust the gain for A/D.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anyone happen to know what the min and max dc input voltage limits are
for this unit? Could be just the ticket for my nicads.
Paul Wallace
>>In case anyone is interested:
>>*http://tinyurl.com/cuzmn*
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-HYBRID-INSIGHT-144DC-TO-12-DC-MODULE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQitemZ8012912023QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Any idea if this would fulfill the legal requirements of a motorcycle
headlight?
-Jamie
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Neon John
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 10:33 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Small HID light
I just received my Trail Tech 10 watt HID (metal halide) light that
I'm going to use on my scooter.
http://www.trailtech.net/atv_light_parts_1.htm
At the bottom of the page.
This little thing kicks *ss! It uses the Welch-Allyn Solarc miniature
metal halide tubes and ballasts. The discharge tube itself is maybe
half the size of a grain of rice. I got the spot variety. It draws
just under an amp from 12 volts. It puts out a brighter spot than my
6 cell Maglite. This is going to be more than enough light for my
scooter.
A couple of these would make excellent lights for mini-EVs. I noticed
on Trail-Tech site that they're going to have a 35 watt version
available soon. I have a W-A 35 watt MR16 mounted HID lamp and
ballast. This thing is brighter than a Q-beam or any conventional
headlight. Two of these, while drawing about the same power as one
conventional light, would work great on any EV.
If you're into that sort of thing, the bluish light has a high kewl
factor too.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Wow 3mA, that's tiny, what brand and specs and where do you get them from.
> Mine draws 60mA.
LED display? They draw a lot of power. One that draws only 60ma is actually on
the low side for LEDs. I suspect it won't be readable in sunlight.
The LCD meters are much lower power, and can be read in sunlight. Many
LCD-based meters use less than 1ma. But, they need a backlight to be read at
night; this adds 10ma at least.
> Regulator... Specifically, the 78L05 or something like that.
The 78L05 works, but it an old part. It draws about 5ma all by itself, with no
load at all. There are lots of newer parts that draw a lot less power
themselves, and have other built-in features suitable for automotive use
(better accuracy, better temperature stability, not killed by voltage
transients, etc.).
> anyone out there got a good method of cutting square holes in aluminum sheet
> besides drilling holes and hacking away the square?
Use a nibbler, which cuts out nice clean little rectangular chunks. Tedious,
though. Or if you have a lot of holes of the same size to cut, you can buy
chassis punches. A square punch and die, with a bolt to pull them together.
Drill a round hole, place the punch and die on opposite sides, and pull them
together with the bolt.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Carmen wrote:
> I am very happy to have my EV, however, my current setup does not
> give me much zip... Do I need another engine, different batteries, or
> a combination? I have a new battery pack 16 6 volts... I think it is
> a prestolite with a curtis pmc controller... It's such a small car
> (Fiat 850 Spider)
You need to start by finding out what your "weakest link" is. It could be the
motor, controller, batteries, or something mechanical.
Does your EV have an ammeter to show battery current? A car this size should
draw about 100 amps at 60 mph. If it is higher than this, then your low top
speed is due to mechanical losses somewhere. Check the tire pressure, wheel
alignment, dragging brakes, etc.
If the current is low at 60 mph, you can add batteries to raise the pack
voltage. The controller and charger will need to be rated to handle it (or
you'll need to change them). More batteries helps range and top speed, but
won't do much to accellerate faster because the extra weight.
If slow accelleration is your problem (not the top speed, but the time it
takes to reach it), then look at the highest current reading while you are
accellerating. If it is less than 400 amps, accelleration certainly will be
sluggish. Try shifting to make the current higher to accellerate faster. If
you still can't get it higher, then a bigger controller will help.
There are some "hot rodder's" tricks to accellerate faster with what you've
already got. Basically, you could add field weakening to the motor and/or a
bypass contactor. But these are not a good idea unless you have a lot of
skill and experience.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I thought a newbie might not know what you mean by "battery" ( meaning pack)
and "module" (meaning battery, I think) . With all of the newbies these
days, it might be better to stick with the terms that people already know.
I always thought that "pack", "battery" and "cell" were pretty well
understood by everyone.
I've inserted the translations into the text:
Something's wrong. In a tiny, light (and I think aerodynamic) car like
that, a 96 volt system won't be a neck snapper, but it should be reasonably
peppy.
How's your range?
First thing to check is how you're driving it. Unlike a gas car, a series
DC motor has peak torque at stall. If you need a lot of acceleration, you
should upshift when you feel the torque go flat. (Be aware that this kind
of acceleration is hard on batteries and motor.)
Also, even though the battery is new, you might have a weak module.
****He means - " even though the battery pack is new, you might have a weak
battery."
Do a
load test on the pack if you have a dummy load. Another way is to jack up
the rear, chock the front wheels REALLY well. Partly set the handbrake,
then run at a constant speed such as 20mph indicated while someone measures
the voltage of each module.
****He means "each battery"
Any that are much lower than the others are
suspect.
Check for high resistance in connections by (carefully!) feeling cable ends
and the like after a drive. Any that are bad will get hot.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another thought is to use the electric motor itself as the machine.
A video from http://www.grassrootsev.com shows an example where steve
puts a $15 taperlock coupler on the motor shaft, and machines it down
to the appropriate size while spinning it via the eletric motor. This
also guarantees the coupler is concentric with the rotation of the
shaft.
My crazy idea: Make some kind of attachment that would hook a router
to an arm that attaches to the motor shaft. A drill might even work,
but isn't really designed for side loads. Note that the high speed
bit in the router or drill does the cutting, not the electric motor
spinning the big assembly! Anyway, use this to machine the adapter
spacer ring to the right thickness -- by suspending the tool via the
motor output shaft you are making sure everything squares up to the
motor shaft. On the aircooled VW and Porsche, the tranny accepts a
centering ridge, this would be a poor man's way to machine that, too.
--- Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I've been googling around, and didn't see
> the answer to this yet.
> If I wanted to make my own adaptor plate,
> is there a likely source for the scrap metal for it?
> Something like an old flywheel?
>
>
> Fuzzy logic: Since this is the Mother of all Projects
> (for this year :-), I might as well grab the chance (excuse),
> and buy a 3-in-1 machine shop that my friend sells commercially.
> It's a compact machine that has a lathe, bench grinder,
> and milling machine if I am not mistaken.
>
> I haven't used these things since high school ;-)
__________________________________
Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
http://farechase.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I use the LEM HTFS 400. This allows me to monitor traction and regen
current. It only needs a +ve supply voltage and its output voltage centres
itself on 2.5volts. This allows the use of an expanded scale voltmeter
centred on 2.5volts. It is a simple 4 terminal Hall effect ring that has a
hole big enough to thread both the cable and its ring terminal through (so
no need to remake the crimp). It costs less than £15 and I built it into a
little plastic box about 75mm x 50mm.
John
www.bedfordev.flyer.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 3:58 PM
Subject: Current Sensor (was: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?)
> Doug, thanks for the info.
>
> The sensor I have is a LEM 400-S/SP8. I'm not sure what the SP8 portion
> refers to -- might be purely related to mechanical mounting. The
> datasheet is for the 400-S series.
>
> These sensors appear to be specifically for AC/DC current measurement
> for traction applications (EVs).
>
> +/- 0-400A measurement, +/- 0-4VDC output porportional to current
> Isolated
> +/- 1000A measurable (though less accurate)
> 30000A overload
> Requires +/-15VDC at 25mA (max)
>
> Lem website: http://www.lemusa.com
> HAL Product line: http://www.lemusa.com/product/industry/HAL
> Datasheet: http://www.lem.com/inet/datashee.nsf/(Weblink)/60.62.48.000.4e
>
> PDF entitled "Current Measurement in the Drive Unit of an Electric
Vehicle":
>
http://www.lemauto.com/inet/auto/lemauto.nsf/5529db7bdfd774fbc1256a5e004922b9/6c63b66456fb7a75c1256d5800398bab/$FILE/ch98105e.pdf
>
> I was going to use an op-amp to buffer and scale the signal to drive a
> high-impedance automotive style meter movement (1000 Ohms, 10Vdc (yes
> volts, not mA) full scale) directly.
>
> I picked up two of them (in one auction) on Ebay for about $15.
>
> Allegro also sells hall effect current sensors, but with lower bandwidth
> and current:
> http://www.allegromicro.com/hall/currentsensor.asp
>
> The Allegro units are actually wired in series, but are still isolated.
>
> Similar items can be found on Ebay:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/VERIS-HAWKEYE-CURRENT-SENSOR-MODEL-720-20-TO-200-AMPS_W0QQitemZ7547099753QQcategoryZ25417QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
>
> Doug Weathers wrote:
> > Hi Eric,
> >
> > I purchased orange 2/0 ultra-flexible welding cable from Airgas. I
> > just took some measurements with my digital calipers. The OD is
> > 15.85mm. The diameter of the copper is approx. 11mm.
> >
> > If you squeeze the cable, it will get smaller than 15mm. Squeezing
> > the caliper on it will bring it down to about 14.5mm.
> >
> > You should be able to fit it in your sensor. It'll be tight, though.
> > You might need to trim some insulation as Cor suggests.
> >
> > If you have to feed a length of it through the sensor, perhaps some
> > cable lube would help. Or you could set up a wringer and squish the
> > cable before feeding it through.
> >
> > Other 2/0 cable may be thicker or thinner than mine. Cor seems to
> > have seen cable with less copper than what I ended up with.
> >
> > Could you share some details of this sensor? Where can it be
> > purchased, what's the output like, will it work instead of a shunt, etc.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >
> > On Nov 10, 2005, at 12:08 PM, Cor van de Water wrote:
> >
> >> Eric,
> >>
> >> You should be fine.
> >> It depends on the thickness of insulator, quoted from memory
> >> the copper diameter is less than 9mm so you should be fine with
> >> all but the cables with more than 3mm rubber isolator
> >> (and even that could be cut off partially)
> >>
> >> Success,
> >>
> >> Cor van de Water
> >> Systems Architect
> >> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> >> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> >> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> >> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> >> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
> >> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 12:05 PM
> >> To: [email protected]
> >> Subject: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?
> >>
> >>
> >> Can anyone give me a figure for the OD of 2/0 cable typically used for
> >> battery to controller interconnects?
> >>
> >> I have a closed-loop hall effect current sensor, and I'm wondering if a
> >> 2/0 cable will pass through, or do I need to use an non-insulted copper
> >> bar? The opening is rectangular, 20 x 15 mm (0.787" x 0.591"), so my
> >> small dimension is 15mm.
> >>
> >>
> > --
> > Doug Weathers
> > Bend, OR, USA
> > http://learn-something.blogsite.org
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.12.8/166 - Release Date: 10/11/2005
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It doesn't say how much it weighs, and it could be heavy. The $45 for s/h still
sounds
high.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 10:33 AM
Subject: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
> In case anyone is interested: *http://tinyurl.com/cuzmn*
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-HYBRID-INSIGHT-144DC-TO-12-DC-MODULE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQitemZ8012912023QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Best thing is just a shunt, ADC with SPI continuous internally clocked
output, and feed the SDO/SCK through an opto. Can be powered by a
negative voltage reg or dc-dc. The NVR takes less current but has some
issues protecting the circuit if the wires are disconnected in the wrong
order, the dc-dc needs about 18mA idle. The max offset possible under
like a 600 amp shunt is only like 10mA or so which is why I like it.
Isolation amplifier- huh, I'm not familiar with that one. Cool! You
introduced me to a whole new class of component! That sure doesn't
happen every day. I was looking for something like this awhile back.
In this case it looks like it's still got a significant bit of offset
error and not ideal for extremely low signals, it also looks a bit
tricky to power (but I'm not sure, I don't fully understand the
requirements yet).
Danny
Eric Poulsen wrote:
I had an idea a while back for an isolated current sensing:
Use a standard shunt of the appropriate size, coupled to an isolation
amplifier such as the iso124 (bandwidth 50Khz) -- this would be
powered by a small dual dc-dc converter.
The whole thing, including shunt could be built for $60-$80. Add a
super-cheap op-amp and drive a meter directly, or adjust the gain for
A/D.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:54 PM 11/11/05 +1100, Robert wrote:
By the way, anyone out
there got a good method of cutting square holes in aluminum sheet besides
drilling holes and hacking away the square.
Depending on how thick, you can use a hand nibbler tool for up to around
2mm Al (a bit under 1mm steel) with a cheaper tool.
If you have a lot of holes to do, just go see your local laser cutter
operator (or maybe I'm spoiled by our local laser cutter people).
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> I had an idea a while back for an isolated current sensing:
> Use a standard shunt of the appropriate size, coupled to an
> isolation amplifier such as the iso124 (bandwidth 50Khz) --
> this would be powered by a small dual dc-dc converter.
Sure; this can work. It's one of several approaches. The challenges to
building a shunt amplifier are:
1. The voltage from the shunt is very low. A 500amp 50mv shunt only
produces 100 microvolts per amp. Most opamps have input offset
voltage errors considerably larger than this. So, you have to
use an opamp with an ultra low input offset voltage.
2. Noise levels in an EV are very high. The "DC" current flowing
from the batteries actually has a considerable amount of high
frequency noise that is quite large. So the amplifier needs a
very high resistance to noise.
3. The automotive environment is pretty harsh. There are large
temperature variations, water, dirt, shock and vibration, etc.
Unless you use very stable and accurate parts, the readings will
drift all over the place.
4. We expect stuff in cars to last 10 years or more. You can't build
a shunt amplifier like most "throw-away" consumer electroncs; it
needs to keep working and be stable and accurate for a long time.
That's especially difficult in such a harsh environment.
5. Isolation is just another problem to deal with. It's hard to
transfer an analog voltage across an isolation barrier, so most
designers convert to digital, and then transfer this across the
isolation barrier.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I wonder how many amps it puts out? LR>.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adams, Lynn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
Watch out for the $45 shipping charge.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 8:34 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
In case anyone is interested:
*http://tinyurl.com/cuzmn*
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-HYBRID-INSIGHT-144DC-TO-12-DC-MODUL
E_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQitemZ8012912023QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD
VW
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just a reminder that we're having our November NBEAA
meeting in Novato, CA, this Sunday. Please spread the word.
Eddie DaRocha will be showing us his AC Propulsion Saturn.
More info here
http://www.nbeaa.org/html/future_meetings.html
Hope to see you there,
Nick
Dr Nick Carter,
Owner, npc Imaging, 2228 Magowan Drive, Santa Rosa, CA 95405 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED] www.npcimaging.com Tel/fax: +1 (707) 573 9361
President, North Bay Electric Auto Association
Solectria EV owner. "Spare the air every day - drive electric!"
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** Books by Powell, Stone, etc., Dover scores in stock **
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I believe these are about a 90 amp output. They have enough power to power the
rear windshield heater, headlight, wipers, electric windows, stereo, the rest
of the car, hvac blower motor etc. all at once with some extra capacity.
Perhaps John Wayland will chime in here, he knows about what overhead they have
beyone the stock loads for powering an amp.
FYI, this is about a $1,000 item from Honda. Also, there is a recall on a
certain VIN range of 2000 model year Insight's for a DC/DC replacement where it
could possibly shut down. I don't recall anyone ever having any issues with
this, but it could potentially be one of them, or then again it could have been
replaced under the recall if it was.
Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I wonder how many amps it puts out? LR>.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adams, Lynn"
To:
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
>
> Watch out for the $45 shipping charge.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 8:34 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
>
>
>
>
> In case anyone is interested:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/cuzmn*
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-HYBRID-INSIGHT-144DC-TO-12-DC-MODUL
> E_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQitemZ8012912023QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD
> VW
>
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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Hi all
Those who are subscribed to the EVTech mailing list may recall that I was
asked to make up a power steering economiser, and had the opportunity to
build and fit one to a forklift as a trial.
It wasn't until I got to the fitting part that I discovered the reason this
particular fork was having problems - the power steering rack is
motor-assisted, and when the wheel is turned without moving along, the
motor works quite hard - and if you don't move off, the motor sits there,
stalled, holding the tension (under control of an electronic module). Since
there already was a switch in the steering to detect mechanical overload,
the module I built tapped into this, and de-activates the module if the
wheel has not been turned for a few seconds. If there is a lot of force on,
the wheel kicks back (when loosing the motor assist) but apart from that it
works fine. I'd be reluctant to de-power an on-road PS, it'd be better to
take it to 1/2 or 1/3 power with a PWM control module. If anyone wants the
information on how I detected & timed etc, I'm happy to provide what I did,
but I'm not going to do one for on-road (but I may build another for my own
fork).
Since I have had problems getting this customer (a local forklift repairer)
to pay up in the past, I felt him out for a 'deal'. So now I have (or will
have on monday) a fork(doesn't)lift with dead batteries as another
plaything (i.e. more junk). Aparently the hydraulic pump motor for
lift/tilt/reach died and was marginal to be worth fixing, so it was left
sitting a while....then they found a while had become a bit too long and
the batteries were beyond it.
So I'll have a 48V (I think SCR) control system, some 48V contactors and an
as-yet-unknown traction motor, and maybe a PS motor. May be worthwhile to
start putting bits aside for a trike or a go-cart...I've a 24V motor that
may go well with the 48V controller...
And I still need to get my Daihatsu truck conversion finished! (but at
least it is getting there).
James
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On 2005-11-11, Lee Hart wrote:
> > Wow 3mA, that's tiny, what brand and specs and where do you get them from.
> > Mine draws 60mA.
>
> LED display? They draw a lot of power. One that draws only 60ma is actually
> on
> the low side for LEDs. I suspect it won't be readable in sunlight.
>
> The LCD meters are much lower power, and can be read in sunlight. Many
> LCD-based meters use less than 1ma. But, they need a backlight to be read at
> night; this adds 10ma at least.
G'day Lee,
Yeah, the LCD units don't use a lot of power at all for the
display, but as you say the backlight would be a problem. I guess
one possibility, perhaps, is to drive the backlight from the main 12V
'dash light' circuit, if the meter construction allows that. Or just
use non-backlit displays and front-light them with LED driven from
the dash circuit. Lots of motorcycle folk do that so they can use
bicycle speedos on their bikes[*], the bike speedos don't have backlights
but you just point a single white LED at them ...
> > Regulator... Specifically, the 78L05 or something like that.
>
> The 78L05 works, but it an old part. It draws about 5ma all by itself,
Okay, never mind me! I'm a bit (uh, lot) out of date on these things.
Some other kind of three-terminal regulator the size of a transistor
(and not an old-timey transistor either, one of them newfangled TO92s)
-----sharks :-)
[*] You'd think the OEM speedo would be more accurate, reliable and
robust than a $50 thing which looks like a cheap wristwatch and
senses with a _reed switch_, right? Nope.
--
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <http://zoic.org/sharkey/>
"There is no rule of law until the Mafia needs lawyers." -- Stephen Holmes
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It doesn't have a DOT stamp, if that's what you're asking. I think it
would probably take at least two of these to provide enough light to
use as a main headlight. Trail Tech shows a typical use of a light
attached to each frame member, providing additional light over and
above the main light.
I did note on the Trail Tech web site that they're going to have a 35
watt version out by summer, again using the W-A Solarc short arc HID.
That should be impressive. I have a W-A 35 watt lamp and ballast, the
lamp being mounted in an MR16 reflector. It configured as a spot and
the light beam is absolutely dazzling.
The hot setup for primary lighting on a motorcycle is a luminary using
the 35 watt automotive HID lamps and ballasts. These offer superb
lighting and are DOT approved. All the usual suspects (Cibie, etc)
seem to have 'em.
I have a handheld searchlight that uses a 35 watt HID with a 10"
reflector. Awesome light throw. I can illuminate a water tank all
the way across town well enough to read the writing on it - using
binoculars, of course. Fifty watt HIDs are becoming commonly
available. I think I'll be converting my light over to that when the
price comes down to about $100 for the bulb/ballast combo.
John
On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 11:12:43 -0800, "Jamie Marshall \(GAMES\)"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Any idea if this would fulfill the legal requirements of a motorcycle
>headlight?
>
>-Jamie
>I just received my Trail Tech 10 watt HID (metal halide) light that
>I'm going to use on my scooter.
>
>http://www.trailtech.net/atv_light_parts_1.htm
>
>At the bottom of the page.
>
>This little thing kicks *ss! It uses the Welch-Allyn Solarc miniature
>metal halide tubes and ballasts. The discharge tube itself is maybe
>half the size of a grain of rice. I got the spot variety. It draws
>just under an amp from 12 volts. It puts out a brighter spot than my
>6 cell Maglite. This is going to be more than enough light for my
>scooter.
>
>A couple of these would make excellent lights for mini-EVs. I noticed
>on Trail-Tech site that they're going to have a 35 watt version
>available soon. I have a W-A 35 watt MR16 mounted HID lamp and
>ballast. This thing is brighter than a Q-beam or any conventional
>headlight. Two of these, while drawing about the same power as one
>conventional light, would work great on any EV.
>
>If you're into that sort of thing, the bluish light has a high kewl
>factor too.
>
>John
>---
>John De Armond
>See my website for my current email address
>http://www.johngsbbq.com
>Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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I do something similar frequently as a poor man's lathe. I mount the
stock to a spindle in my ChiCom drill press. I mount a carbide burr
in an air powered die grinder and clamp the grinder in an inexpensive
X-Y table made for drill presses. If the spindle bearings in both
machines are fairly tight, some pretty decent work can be done.
John
On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 11:31:44 -0800 (PST), David Dymaxion
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Another thought is to use the electric motor itself as the machine.
>
>A video from http://www.grassrootsev.com shows an example where steve
>puts a $15 taperlock coupler on the motor shaft, and machines it down
>to the appropriate size while spinning it via the eletric motor. This
>also guarantees the coupler is concentric with the rotation of the
>shaft.
>
>My crazy idea: Make some kind of attachment that would hook a router
>to an arm that attaches to the motor shaft. A drill might even work,
>but isn't really designed for side loads. Note that the high speed
>bit in the router or drill does the cutting, not the electric motor
>spinning the big assembly! Anyway, use this to machine the adapter
>spacer ring to the right thickness -- by suspending the tool via the
>motor output shaft you are making sure everything squares up to the
>motor shaft. On the aircooled VW and Porsche, the tranny accepts a
>centering ridge, this would be a poor man's way to machine that, too.
>
>--- Seth Rothenberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I've been googling around, and didn't see
>> the answer to this yet.
>> If I wanted to make my own adaptor plate,
>> is there a likely source for the scrap metal for it?
>> Something like an old flywheel?
>>
>>
>> Fuzzy logic: Since this is the Mother of all Projects
>> (for this year :-), I might as well grab the chance (excuse),
>> and buy a 3-in-1 machine shop that my friend sells commercially.
>> It's a compact machine that has a lathe, bench grinder,
>> and milling machine if I am not mistaken.
>>
>> I haven't used these things since high school ;-)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>http://farechase.yahoo.com
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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Well, waiting for the car to go in to the EV album (take your time), but here's
some pictures of the Saturn thus far:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=656a
I just got the lifting springs put on the rear of the car today so it actually
sits correct now. I also had a wheel bearing dragging pretty badly, both were
replaced and I'm now ~5 amps more efficient. I'm hoping I can make my battery
box lids this week and get my trunk back.
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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Ricky,
That's a really sharp looking conversion!
Congrats on a job well done.
Rod
--- Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, waiting for the car to go in to the EV album
> (take your time), but here's some pictures of the
> Saturn thus far:
>
>
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=656a
>
> I just got the lifting springs put on the rear of
> the car today so it actually sits correct now. I
> also had a wheel bearing dragging pretty badly, both
> were replaced and I'm now ~5 amps more efficient.
> I'm hoping I can make my battery box lids this week
> and get my trunk back.
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Insight
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
> Glendale, AZ USA
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in
> one click.
>
>
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Thanks to those who have helped me with my engine zip problem.
I have a voltmeter that had a lose disconnect. I put a new one in and now
my voltmeter showes about 96 or so, at rest, ignition off. This kind of
makes sense as I have a 96 volt pack but when I first got the car the
voltmeter was showing like 3-5 or so. Which is correct. It may have been
lose since I bought it. There still seems to be something not quite right.
The ampmeter seems to be OK. But It never goes over 100. Also, I've been
trying to use a multi meter to test the voltmeter but I think I just don't
know what I'm looking for. On the back of the voltmeter I have red and
brown wires. Do I put the black on one of the browns and the red on the
red?? So what should my multimeter read??? Should I check the (I think
it's a ) resistor that is on the circut board of the voltmeter?
Also, when I charge my pack even after 12 hours I never get it to go down to
0 is that common. It gets down to about 1-2 clicks. (click= the little line
on the meter)
Any help will be appreciated.
Carmine in Sacramento
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Awesome conversion Ricky! What type of batteries are those? What kind of
range do you have?
-----Original Message-----
From: Ricky Suiter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Pictures of the Saturn
Well, waiting for the car to go in to the EV album (take your time), but
here's some pictures of the Saturn thus far:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=656a
I just got the lifting springs put on the rear of the car today so it
actually sits correct now. I also had a wheel bearing dragging pretty badly,
both were replaced and I'm now ~5 amps more efficient. I'm hoping I can make
my battery box lids this week and get my trunk back.
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
--- End Message ---
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Trojan 30XHS, they're 12 volt batteries (I know boo hiss, we hate those), 130ah
C/20. I should be able to do 40 miles easily, could probably push it to 50 if
needed. So far the longest trip was 26 miles and that took 50% of the charge (I
have the emeter set to 120ah since there is no way to set it to 130 so there's
a bit of a reserve there). I know it's not a lot of battery, but the car's
pretty dang efficient. I can hold 40mph at about 50 amps and about 70 on the
freeway. Drag coefficient I found out is .31 and all the body panels are
plastic to that helps a bit as well. Also have Goodyear Integrity tires on it
which helps a bit more.
I consider them training wheels as when they're done I'm planning on a lot of
orbitals to go in their place!
"Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Awesome conversion Ricky! What type of batteries are those? What kind of
range do you have?
-----Original Message-----
From: Ricky Suiter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Pictures of the Saturn
Well, waiting for the car to go in to the EV album (take your time), but
here's some pictures of the Saturn thus far:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=656a
I just got the lifting springs put on the rear of the car today so it
actually sits correct now. I also had a wheel bearing dragging pretty badly,
both were replaced and I'm now ~5 amps more efficient. I'm hoping I can make
my battery box lids this week and get my trunk back.
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
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