EV Digest 4897
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Digital Panel Meters Common Ground
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Other adapter plate methods
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Series Motor Field
by England Nathan-r25543 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Subject: Re: Dune Buggy Weight - conversion
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Digital Panel Meters Common Ground
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Series Motor Field
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Subject: Re: Dune Buggy Weight - conversion-Dennis Berube buggy.
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Series Motor Field
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Small HID light
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Small HID light
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Series Motor Field
by "Tom Shay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Other adapter plate methods
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: More Zip newbi question - clarifying some terms
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Subject: Re: Dune Buggy Weight - conversion-Dennis Berube buggy.
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Monthly EAA Meeting
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: Pictures of the Saturn
by "Dave & Deb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Monthly EAA Meeting, correction.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Another newbi question
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) current limit and more newbie
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) RE: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: EV digest 4894
by Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Tacho sender ideas
by "Robert Chew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) odysseybatteries
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
by "OhNoJoe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: odysseybatteries
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Subject: Re: Dune Buggy Weight - conversion-Dennis Berube buggy.
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
28) Re: Tacho sender ideas
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I want all these meters wired up to each battery each. And just turn them on
when i want to inspect their voltage, or see what their voltages are when
driving. Yes i could use a multimeter. But, it'll be pretty futuristic and
annoying at the same time having a million gauges in the car. Well, it is a
thesis project.
Yeah those panel meters i have are LED type, wouuld be a pain to see in the
light, will make a hood type housing to shade most of the sunlight of them.
Anyone else out there with 'millions of gauges' in their car.
Would love to see some pics and tips on installing and living with them.
Cheers
From: "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Digital Panel Meters Common Ground
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2005 09:51:38 +1100
On 2005-11-11, Lee Hart wrote:
> > Wow 3mA, that's tiny, what brand and specs and where do you get them
from.
> > Mine draws 60mA.
>
> LED display? They draw a lot of power. One that draws only 60ma is
actually on
> the low side for LEDs. I suspect it won't be readable in sunlight.
>
> The LCD meters are much lower power, and can be read in sunlight. Many
> LCD-based meters use less than 1ma. But, they need a backlight to be
read at
> night; this adds 10ma at least.
G'day Lee,
Yeah, the LCD units don't use a lot of power at all for the
display, but as you say the backlight would be a problem. I guess
one possibility, perhaps, is to drive the backlight from the main 12V
'dash light' circuit, if the meter construction allows that. Or just
use non-backlit displays and front-light them with LED driven from
the dash circuit. Lots of motorcycle folk do that so they can use
bicycle speedos on their bikes[*], the bike speedos don't have backlights
but you just point a single white LED at them ...
> > Regulator... Specifically, the 78L05 or something like that.
>
> The 78L05 works, but it an old part. It draws about 5ma all by itself,
Okay, never mind me! I'm a bit (uh, lot) out of date on these things.
Some other kind of three-terminal regulator the size of a transistor
(and not an old-timey transistor either, one of them newfangled TO92s)
-----sharks :-)
[*] You'd think the OEM speedo would be more accurate, reliable and
robust than a $50 thing which looks like a cheap wristwatch and
senses with a _reed switch_, right? Nope.
--
Nick 'Sharkey' Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <http://zoic.org/sharkey/>
"There is no rule of law until the Mafia needs lawyers." -- Stephen Holmes
_________________________________________________________________
Access your Hotmail straight from your i-mode mobile
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--- Begin Message ---
For the plate that goes between the tranny and the motor
I bought a piece of aluminum tooling plate and took it over to the
guys that do marble countertops, they used a water jet to cut out the
shape in about 20 min at a cost of about $50. I went with threaded holes
and a register because I ahd acces to a mill so that was just the
balnking out stage for me. but it was quick and reasonable.
I have heard a cnc plasma cutter may be cheaper, hopefully others can
comment.
Some notes about the abrasive water jet.
The water jet picks up an abrasive and wears away the cut. I would
say the head is acurate within .002 and the effective cutter diameter is
consistant for the duration of your part, but may drift from time to
time as it wears and so have the operator perform a test cut of a 1/2"
diameter hole to establish cutter compensation for the run.
The start and stop points will make a little cusp indescretion on
the part, make it on a flat area where it can be filed off if it bothers
you or interfers with operation.
The acuracy of the cut decreases with thickness of the cut and
hardness of the material, it will cut 3/16 stainless much nicer than 1"
aluminum. It will cut 1" stone better than 3/4" aluminum.
but I was impressed and it will cut thru alum, plastic, steel,stone,
wood equally well.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I looked through the archives and did not find an answer to this so my
apologies if it has been answered before.
Example: A series wound motor with 6 wraps in the field windings.
What happens to the motor characteristics if a field with 8 wraps in the
windings replace the 6 wraps windings?
This is provided there is allowable room in the case.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Nov 11, 2005, at 5:27 AM, Mark Hanson wrote:
> I was curious who's done a dune buggy conversion
(with doors/cover)
> and how much do they weigh?
>
> Is it easy to find brake etc parts for the old VW
undercarraige?
>
> What is the typical conversion recepe? A direct
drive 7" or use
> tranny with an 8" 72 - 84V?
Mark,
I have converted a Sand Rail and a Ghia. If you would
like to see the buggy go to:
http://www.dm3electrics.com
The rail has a 9 inch GE 96v with stock tranny and
clutch. I have used up to 132volts no problem. Neal
pedals, and king pin front end. I used an escort rack
(it was very light) but would suggest against that and
use one designed for rails.
If you are using the VW bug stock pan, depending on
what amount of clearance you want, you can stiffen the
pan by sinking the battery box behind the
driver/passenger seats where the back seat is located.
I sunk them for the ghia (5 inch off ground)
I installed discs in front since the ghia is pretty
heavy 2600lb+ with (20) t125s. I used the stock
pedals, it is a 1974 so it has the ball joint front
end. I suggest the 5/8 in dia anti sway bar at least
in front if you keep the stock suspension. I used a
stock tranny with no clutch but I didnt shift much on
the street.
Stock parts are fairly easy to find, check ebay and
your local bug bone yard. Definately go to your local
VW swap meets.
If you are just going to squirt dirt, you may not want
front brakes and your elevated suspension will
obviously need to handle the battery weight. Check
out some rock climber sites, they are starting to use
electrics and may have some tips. I would use a
clutch with hydralics to the pedal. You may want an
in line brake lock so you can stop and chock by
yourself.
good luck,
jimmy
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Robert Chew wrote:
> I want all these meters wired up to each battery. And just turn them
> on when I want to inspect their voltage...
Ok; then (I think it was) John Lussmyer who made a good suggestion. Get a
small 12v-to-120vac inverter. Use its output to power a bunch of "wall wart"
plug-in power supplies with 5vdc outputs, one per battery. This gives you a
large number of isolated 5vdc outputs, which can all be switched on/off from
one central location.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Nathan England wrote:
> Example: A series wound motor with 6 wraps in the field windings.
> What happens to the motor characteristics if a field with 8 wraps
> in the windings replace the 6 wraps windings? This is provided
> there is allowable room in the case.
Usually, the windings in a motor are sized to fill the available space. They
decide how many turns they need, then use the biggest size wire that will
fit, which improves efficiency.
If you increase the number of turns, you strengthen the field. This reduces
the rpm, and increases the torque. Increasing from 6 to 8 turns is a 8/6= 33%
increase, so you get about 33% less speed and 33% more torque at any given
voltage.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jimmy,
I noticed Ametek-Rotron as a sponser on your vehicle.
Did they contribute a fan or blower? Just curious, I
work at Ametek and would provide some free parts for
other EV'rs. I also worked for GE when they where
providing 9" motors and EVT15 controls. I think this
is what Dennis Berube had in his sand buggy, I still
have the 8x10 picture he sent me when I worked at GE.
Whatever happened to that EV Dennis (if your reading).
Maybe I should scan the picture for the EValbulm if it
isn't there already.
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Nov 11, 2005, at 5:27 AM, Mark Hanson wrote:
>
> > I was curious who's done a dune buggy conversion
> (with doors/cover)
> > and how much do they weigh?
> >
> > Is it easy to find brake etc parts for the old VW
> undercarraige?
> >
> > What is the typical conversion recepe? A direct
> drive 7" or use
> > tranny with an 8" 72 - 84V?
>
> Mark,
> I have converted a Sand Rail and a Ghia. If you
> would
> like to see the buggy go to:
> http://www.dm3electrics.com
> The rail has a 9 inch GE 96v with stock tranny and
> clutch. I have used up to 132volts no problem.
> Neal
> pedals, and king pin front end. I used an escort
> rack
> (it was very light) but would suggest against that
> and
> use one designed for rails.
>
> If you are using the VW bug stock pan, depending on
> what amount of clearance you want, you can stiffen
> the
> pan by sinking the battery box behind the
> driver/passenger seats where the back seat is
> located.
> I sunk them for the ghia (5 inch off ground)
> I installed discs in front since the ghia is pretty
> heavy 2600lb+ with (20) t125s. I used the stock
> pedals, it is a 1974 so it has the ball joint front
> end. I suggest the 5/8 in dia anti sway bar at
> least
> in front if you keep the stock suspension. I used a
> stock tranny with no clutch but I didnt shift much
> on
> the street.
>
> Stock parts are fairly easy to find, check ebay and
> your local bug bone yard. Definately go to your
> local
> VW swap meets.
> If you are just going to squirt dirt, you may not
> want
> front brakes and your elevated suspension will
> obviously need to handle the battery weight. Check
> out some rock climber sites, they are starting to
> use
> electrics and may have some tips. I would use a
> clutch with hydralics to the pedal. You may want an
> in line brake lock so you can stop and chock by
> yourself.
> good luck,
> jimmy
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 11:14 AM 11/11/05 -0700, England Nathan-r25543 wrote:
I looked through the archives and did not find an answer to this so my
apologies if it has been answered before.
Example: A series wound motor with 6 wraps in the field windings.
What happens to the motor characteristics if a field with 8 wraps in the
windings replace the 6 wraps windings?
This is provided there is allowable room in the case.
Proportionally greater field strength, more low-RPM torque and lower max. RPM.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Really? I've got a 35W automotive HID haven't been able to get together
in a housing yet.
So this "short arc" I guess is going to be a small tube closer to those 13W?
The 13W, while wildly superior to halogens and LEDs, still appeared to
be much less efficient than 35W automotive HIDs when I tried to compare
stated lumens to stated watts. If I recall correctly the figure for
auto lights was for the tube itself and did not include the ballast
losses which are not insignificant. I believe this came about because
legally you're usually only allowed a 35W headlight and using this
figure was advantageous. I suspect the bikers wanted to know watts
consumed to reliably estimate battery consumption which might make them
closer to automotive HIDs than the numbers suggested.
Any links regarding this 35W lamp? I tried looking it up and couldn't
find such a thing.
Danny
Neon John wrote:
I did note on the Trail Tech web site that they're going to have a 35
watt version out by summer, again using the W-A Solarc short arc HID.
That should be impressive. I have a W-A 35 watt lamp and ballast, the
lamp being mounted in an MR16 reflector. It configured as a spot and
the light beam is absolutely dazzling.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 21:48:27 -0600, Danny Miller
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Really? I've got a 35W automotive HID haven't been able to get together
>in a housing yet.
>So this "short arc" I guess is going to be a small tube closer to those 13W?
Yes. The bulb in the 13 watt unit is about the size of a half of a
grain of rice. The 35 watt bulb is perhaps the size of a whole grain.
>
>The 13W, while wildly superior to halogens and LEDs, still appeared to
>be much less efficient than 35W automotive HIDs when I tried to compare
>stated lumens to stated watts. If I recall correctly the figure for
>auto lights was for the tube itself and did not include the ballast
>losses which are not insignificant.
I can't quote numbers but subjectively, the ballast losses are pretty
trivial with the W-A lamp systems. I popped the bulb and it's
attached ballast from the case of this new 13 watt unit so that I
could tell where the heat came from. The ballast barely warms to the
touch and I suspect that most of that heat is conducted from the
tightly coupled lamp. The ballast on the 35 watt lamp is a small PCB
with a couple of ferrite core inductors and two power FETs. One FET
gets a little warm, maybe 10 deg over ambient. The transformers and
the other FET remain at room temperature. I'd be surprised to find
that the whole thing dissipates a watt.
>Any links regarding this 35W lamp? I tried looking it up and couldn't
>find such a thing.
I've never bothered to look it up. The number on the lamp is either
"AL-1524" or "AL-1824" - the printing is smudged. There is nothing on
the ballast board that looks like a part number. This combo came out
of the light source for a surgeon's fiber optic head light.
I was on W-A's web site a few nights ago and remember seeing a 35 watt
version of the Solarc system so you might look there.
Here's another place to look.
http://www.aelight.com/ballasts/ballast_index.html
And here:
http://www.pyramidtechnologies.com/products/product.asp?ID=3&CID=31&PID=192
http://www.pyramidtechnologies.com/products/category.asp?ID=3&CID=31
I've just purchased one of these lights:
http://www.pyramidtechnologies.com/products/product.asp?ID=3&CID=31&PID=203
And am waiting on delivery. I've heard that it really cooks!
BTW, if you're interested/addicted to lighting stuff, this is a nifty
place:
http://candlepowerforums.com
I *HATE* web-based forums and this is the single one that I've found
that I'm willing to put up with for the content.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I beg to differ, Lee.
Field windings are usually not sized to fill the available
space. Space is left between the coils to allow cooling air to flow.
If the armature and field iron structures were not saturated, increasing
from 6 turns per coil to 8 would reduce speed by 25%, not 33%, and
increase torque by 33%. But because saturation does occur, the change
in speed and torque will be less than 25% and 33%.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: Series Motor Field
Nathan England wrote:
Example: A series wound motor with 6 wraps in the field windings.
What happens to the motor characteristics if a field with 8 wraps
in the windings replace the 6 wraps windings? This is provided
there is allowable room in the case.
Usually, the windings in a motor are sized to fill the available space.
They
decide how many turns they need, then use the biggest size wire that will
fit, which improves efficiency.
If you increase the number of turns, you strengthen the field. This
reduces
the rpm, and increases the torque. Increasing from 6 to 8 turns is a 8/6=
33%
increase, so you get about 33% less speed and 33% more torque at any given
voltage.
--
Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jeff Shanab wrote:
> For the plate that goes between the tranny and the motor
What about the taper lock hub to mount the clutch/flywheel to the motor?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 11 Nov 2005 at 14:24, Phil Marino wrote:
> I thought a newbie might not know what you mean by "battery" ( meaning pack)
> and "module" (meaning battery, I think) .
Good catch. Thanks.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All.
Ricky Suiter wrote:
I believe these are about a 90 amp output. They have enough power to power the
rear windshield heater, headlight, wipers, electric windows, stereo, the rest
of the car, hvac blower motor etc. all at once with some extra capacity.
Perhaps John Wayland will chime in here, he knows about what overhead they have
beyone the stock loads for powering an amp.
It's rated at 75 amps and is made by TDK. It's a pretty tough unit and
can withstand over currents well.
It weighs about 15 lbs.
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rod Hower wrote:
> other EV'rs. I also worked for GE when they where
> providing 9" motors and EVT15 controls.
Was the 9" GE motor any good? Is it still being made? How'd it
compare to ADC's? What was the EVT15 like?
> Maybe I should scan the picture for the EV album
I'd like to see that.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVerybody;
Anybody in the Central CT area tomorrow, Sat? Come on over. Meeting is at
Jack Gretta's in Chester, CT 2 to 4PM.
Seeya there, lottsa Charging power available!
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ah those are the batteries I was planning to use in my honda 84v
conversion. I'll be interested to see how they work for you.
I didn't buy them because the local distributor here in Seattle had only 4
and it would be 3 weeks before he had more.
But we have a small battery manufacturer here in town called Dyno. I
looked at their equivalent battery and was impressed enough after asking a
zillion questions to buy them instead of waiting for the trojans. It's a
little smaller at 115ah vs 130ah ...
so why do y'all hate Trojan 12v batts?? I sure got frustrated reading
there website trying to find real solid info rather than marketing info...
Dave
> Awesome conversion Ricky! What type of batteries are those? What kind of
> range do you have?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ricky Suiter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 6:27 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Pictures of the Saturn
>
>
> Well, waiting for the car to go in to the EV album (take your time), but
> here's some pictures of the Saturn thus far:
>
> http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=656a
>
> I just got the lifting springs put on the rear of the car today so it
> actually sits correct now. I also had a wheel bearing dragging pretty
> badly,
> both were replaced and I'm now ~5 amps more efficient. I'm hoping I can
> make
> my battery box lids this week and get my trunk back.
>
>
> Later,
> Ricky
> 02 Insight
> 92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
> Glendale, AZ USA
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hi again, DUH! It's late, Jack's is at 41 Gilbert Hill road, in Chester.
Sorry!
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 11:30 PM
Subject: Monthly EAA Meeting
> Hi EVerybody;
>
> Anybody in the Central CT area tomorrow, Sat? Come on over. Meeting is
at Jack Gretta's in Chester, CT 2 to 4PM.
>
> Seeya there, lottsa Charging power available!
>
> Bob
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 03:54 PM 11/11/05 -0800, Carmine wrote:
Thanks to those who have helped me with my engine zip problem.
Hi Carmine
One little thing first - although "engine" and "motor" are technically
interchangeable, it is usual for electric motors to be referred to as
"motor". "Engine" is usually kept for those infernal combustion engines
that a conventional motorcar :^) has.
I have a voltmeter that had a lose disconnect. I put a new one in and now
my voltmeter showes about 96 or so, at rest, ignition off. This kind of
makes sense as I have a 96 volt pack
Yep. 96V is from the battery volts - but that is about what you should have
if the vehicle hasn't moved in a while. Fresh off the charger it should be
up around 105 to 110 volts, and around 115 volts near the end of charging.
but when I first got the car the voltmeter was showing like 3-5 or so.
Bad connecton, or bad meter or exceptionally bad battery pack. I hope the
batteries never got down there, or they're toast.
There still seems to be something not quite right.
The ampmeter seems to be OK. But It never goes over 100.
Well that's probably showing battery (pack) amps, rather than motor amps,
which with an electronic controller will normally be lower than the amps in
the motor loop (if you can add a motor loop ammeter, that'd be a good
thing). You may have a fault with the controller that is limiting the
current (amps) draw from the battery to 100 or so rather than the 400 or
more that the controller should allow - that or it's just turned down too
far. It gets a bit involved to explain how the controller can have 100A
coming from the battery and 500A happening in the motor, but that is what
happens, and is one of the reasons people cook their motor.
trying to use a multi meter to test the voltmeter but I think I just don't
know what I'm looking for. On the back of the voltmeter I have red and
brown wires. Do I put the black on one of the browns and the red on the
red? So what should my multimeter read? Should I check the (I think
it's a ) resistor that is on the circut board of the voltmeter?
OK, set the multimeter onto DC volts, and a range that will show around
100V. Check the voltage reading across the battery pack (red to +, black to
-), this should read what the voltmeter reads. The voltmeter itself is not
a 150V (or whatever) meter, the resistor on the back of it makes it read
the values put onto its' scale.
Is the resistor a little tubular thing that has a single wire out of the
middle of each end ?
Sort of (view with fixed-width font):
____
--[____]--
It may be any particular plain colour, with a number printed on it, or it
may have coloured bands around it. Alternatively it may be a disc-shaped
object, with a screwdriver slot. If so, this'd allow you to adjust it to
read whatever the pack voltage is.
Also, when I charge my pack even after 12 hours I never get it to go down to
0 is that common. It gets down to about 1-2 clicks. (click= the little line
on the meter)
This would be the amp meter on the charger you are talking about? That is
OK, your charger is just not smart enough to know that it's OK to stop.
Hope this helps
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi
For current sensor I use a closed loop hall effect, And time the reading
with the pulse, the sensor is sampled every pulse, ms after rise, (pulse from
controller} Noise is not a problem, Using a AAC sensor and low to no caps,
Had enough ac noise (highside) to give a signal without any power, 100%
isolation (smaller motor 200 amp)
now for the newbie stuff
The pack is 20 6v floods, where should I put fuses, Middle of pack?
Has circuit breaker and blade type before motor now.
The motor is a ge 12.9 hp 4700rpm 6000 max, Hooking up cooling fan. Should
the air flow from the vents near bell housing then out the tube close to
brushes, Sucking?
Has a lester charger, but the ev was a project car(still is but running) the
control card was missing. Has been manual, Last night i was testing a control
I am making (Chopping the output of the lester when a diode blew, Those fuses
on the front make a good" fire works" display, They dont blow, the whole thing
burned and melted on to the table,
good 2 foot flame,
Some new Fuses, new diodes10 times the volts amps ... Im back where I
was.. Must need to add cap before switch(IGBT)
More newbie? coming
Thanks Hap
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This overview shows that 00 (2/0) is 9.266 mm dia
www.bnoack.com/data/wire-resistance.html
(This assumes a solid wire, so a fine stranded wire
may have a larger OD because of the "air" between the strands.
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Roland Wiench
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 5:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Weathers<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?
Hi Eric,
I purchased orange 2/0 ultra-flexible welding cable from Airgas. I
just took some measurements with my digital calipers. The OD is
15.85mm. The diameter of the copper is approx. 11mm.
If you squeeze the cable, it will get smaller than 15mm. Squeezing the
caliper on it will bring it down to about 14.5mm.
You should be able to fit it in your sensor. It'll be tight, though.
You might need to trim some insulation as Cor suggests.
If you have to feed a length of it through the sensor, perhaps some
cable lube would help. Or you could set up a wringer and squish the
cable before feeding it through.
Other 2/0 cable may be thicker or thinner than mine. Cor seems to have
seen cable with less copper than what I ended up with.
Could you share some details of this sensor? Where can it be
purchased, what's the output like, will it work instead of a shunt,
etc.
Good luck,
Doug
On Nov 10, 2005, at 12:08 PM, Cor van de Water wrote:
> Eric,
>
> You should be fine.
> It depends on the thickness of insulator, quoted from memory
> the copper diameter is less than 9mm so you should be fine with
> all but the cables with more than 3mm rubber isolator
> (and even that could be cut off partially)
>
> Success,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Private:
http://www.cvandewater.com<http://www.cvandewater.com/>
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com<http://www.proxim.com/>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 12:05 PM
> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
> Subject: Unusual question: OD of 2/0 cable?
>
>
> Can anyone give me a figure for the OD of 2/0 cable typically used for
> battery to controller interconnects?
>
> I have a closed-loop hall effect current sensor, and I'm wondering if a
> 2/0 cable will pass through, or do I need to use an non-insulted copper
> bar? The opening is rectangular, 20 x 15 mm (0.787" x 0.591"), so my
> small dimension is 15mm.
>
>
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
Hello Doug,
The cable links between each battery, can be a low voltage standard
welding cable, which the diameter is at 15 mm. Remember the voltage
difference between two batteries may be only 6 or 12 volts. A high voltage
12,470 volt transformer has only 7 volts between windings, so a 15 volt
rating enamel insulated wire will work, but we take off this transformer
with a 15,000 volt conductor rating.
The main cable feeds from the battery, if below 300 volts can use the low
voltage cable size. It is prefer to use the 600 volt rated welding cable
for the feeders, where they have more insulation that may against a hard
surface, which can indent the cable to the copper. The 600 volt size can get
over 20 mm.
Roland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich writes:
3.2 to 3.65 volts per 6 volt battery????
This is simple they are Junk!!
Replace with new batteries...all the same kind.
The original poster mentioned 16 batts, with a range of 101 - 102
volts, so proabably this was a typo and he really meant 6.2 to 6.65
volts.
Cheers,
Claudio
Thanks Claudio for seeing through my mistake. I usually simply
reverse order on numbers but sometimes I do what I did here, think
and read one thing but write another. You are right. My batteries
were running 6.2 to 6.65 volts.
How much of a spread is acceptable?
However after I wrote the last email, things changed. I must have
done something right.
The charger is working like I think it should. This is what I did.
I cleaned up all the batteries. Nothing changed. I needed to use my
truck for a few days, so for three nights I charged the batteries on
2.5 amps. Then I let the batteries rest during the day. I measured
the batteries the whole pack was back to its usual 112 volts. I
drove it to church and plugged it in. Without any reason for doing
so, I decided to try to increase the amps on the charger. It moved
right up to 10 amps with no problem. My next check showed the pack
at 119 volts. That is a first since I bought the car.
I assume the slow repeated charge is what caused it.
Is there too great a spread on my battery pack?
Now that the charger is back to normal at what rate should I charge?
How much should I expect the pack to drop from a 7 mile trip at 40MPH?
How do I go about deciding a battery needs replacing?
Calvin
81 Jet 96 volts
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I am about to make a tachometer. Well, actually use a frequency to voltage
convertor IC from national, the LM2917. Awesome chip can set the RPM (limit)
to any voltage you want and because RPM and voltage is linear, therefore,
can be displayed using a LED bargraph or voltmeter.
Only thing is, I want install in on my 6.7" ADC motor on the shaft coupling.
Only place I can find with access to the motor shaft. I want to use a hall
effect sensor to detect a magnetic field caused by a small magnet I will
glue (anyone have a better idea to mount?) on the shaft. I am worried that
since hall effect sensors are very sensitive to magnetic field changes, the
sensor is located very close to the motor and I am afraid that I will get
too much interference from the motor to get any sensible reading from the
magnet on the shaft.
Any ideas, I don't want a CD optical tacho sender method either. Anyone know
of or brand of, a transmitting and receiving photodiode that will detect a
white dot on the shaft. And also, will a magnet cause much vibrations on the
motor shaft at high revs??
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Don who just got a 13" net gain motor is now looking at batteries for his
s-10 project . I've never used these but they sure look good for the web
page , and a 36 mo free replacement . up to this point I have been
advising the excide orbitals steve clunn
Oh I forgot to ask if you found out anything on www.odysseybatteries.com
model pc1200t .
44ah , 78 res, 38.2lbs. $119.52, free shipping for 25 or more.
peukert number 1.0822 , pc1200t , 500-80% dod cycles, 36 mo replacement
free. 8 to 12 year design life.
'' '' '' '' 1.101 exide 34xcd
'' '' '' '' 1.1085 optima d750s
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The ad says
"We are NOT sure what year this was from. No returns as this is a electronic
item."
Maybe the seller know about the recall.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Ricky Suiter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 4:30 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
I believe these are about a 90 amp output. They have enough power to power
the rear windshield heater, headlight, wipers, electric windows, stereo, the
rest of the car, hvac blower motor etc. all at once with some extra
capacity. Perhaps John Wayland will chime in here, he knows about what
overhead they have beyone the stock loads for powering an amp.
FYI, this is about a $1,000 item from Honda. Also, there is a recall on a
certain VIN range of 2000 model year Insight's for a DC/DC replacement where
it could possibly shut down. I don't recall anyone ever having any issues
with this, but it could potentially be one of them, or then again it could
have been replaced under the recall if it was.
Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I wonder how many amps it puts out? LR>.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Adams, Lynn"
To:
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 7:50 AM
Subject: RE: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
>
> Watch out for the $45 shipping charge.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of Eric Poulsen
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 8:34 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Honda Insight DC-DC converter on Ebay
>
>
>
>
> In case anyone is interested:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/cuzmn*
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-HYBRID-INSIGHT-144DC-TO-12-DC-MODUL
> E_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQitemZ8012912023QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD
> VW
>
Later,
Ricky
02 Insight
92 Saturn SC2 EV 144 Volt
Glendale, AZ USA
---------------------------------
Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 8:00 AM
Subject: odysseybatteries
> Don who just got a 13" net gain motor is now looking at batteries for his
> s-10 project . I've never used these but they sure look good for the web
> page , and a 36 mo free replacement . up to this point I have been
> advising the excide orbitals steve clunn
>
>
>
> Oh I forgot to ask if you found out anything on www.odysseybatteries.com
> model pc1200t .
> 44ah , 78 res, 38.2lbs. $119.52, free shipping for 25 or more.
>
> peukert number 1.0822 , pc1200t , 500-80% dod cycles, 36 mo replacement
> free. 8 to 12 year design life.
> '' '' '' '' 1.101 exide 34xcd
> '' '' '' '' 1.1085 optima d750s
> Hi Steve an' All;
Talked to Don the other day. The Oddesies sound like an EVers dream?
THREE year gaurantee?Bet that won't last long when the first murdered packs
start coming back<g>!Are they orbital style?
OK who's gunna take the plunge?
Seeya
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 11/11/05 6:57:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Jimmy,
I noticed Ametek-Rotron as a sponser on your vehicle.
Did they contribute a fan or blower? Just curious, I
work at Ametek and would provide some free parts for
other EV'rs. I also worked for GE when they where
providing 9" motors and EVT15 controls. I think this
is what Dennis Berube had in his sand buggy, I still
have the 8x10 picture he sent me when I worked at GE.
Whatever happened to that EV Dennis (if your reading).
Maybe I should scan the picture for the EValbulm if it
isn't there already.
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>>>Knife in my side SANDBUGGY?...That was the 1st Current Eliminator
dragster.That 9inch GE was a great motor but I did lift a bar at very hi speed.
Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Robert,
You said, you want to mounted the magnets on the motor shaft coupler. If this
is off the pilot shaft like my is, than it couples to something else or other
shaft.
If you have a extension shaft coming off this coupler, then you can mount the
magnet or magnets on a split aluminum disc that is bolt onto the face of a
split steel shaft collar that bolt around the shaft.
These split collars can be purchase from any power transmission suppler which
handles, bearings, gears, shafts, etc.
I'm use a split collar that set screw wedges onto the shaft. I using a 6 inch
diameter aluminum disc that is 1/4 inch thick that will bolt on the face of
this split collar.
To make this disc, I use a piece of aluminum that is about 8 inches square. I
than cut it in half and finish the cut edges so these two surfaces will butt
together. I then bolt these two halves together to another 8 inch backing
plate, so it will whole tight together. I then using a machinist hole cutter
with a lath tool, I first's cut a center hole of 1-1/8 inch diameter which is
the same diameter of my drive shaft that comes from the motor pilot shaft
coupler. Only cut through the top aluminum sheet and not too much into the
backing plate which needs to hold the top sheet together.
I then drill four bolt holes around the center hole, which will be used to bolt
to the face of the split collar.
While the aluminum plates are still bolted together, then I cut out the 6 inch
diameter of the disc. I'm using two magnets place 180 degrees apart on the
face of the disc on a 5.75 inch circle. The Zilla needs a ON-OFF pulse for
every revolution.
I clamp on the split collar around a short piece of shaft and place the split
discs on the split collar butting against this shaft. Using the 4 holes in the
split collar as a template, I then drill holes into the split collar face,
which is than tapped for the split collar mounting bolts.
Next, I than scribe a mounting circle on the face of the disc for locations of
the small round magnets. I drill a small recess hole in the face for the
magnets. This hole is about half through the 1/4 plate. The magnet should be a
press fit into this hole. A 1/8 inch hole is drill all the way through, so you
can punch the magnet out from the back side of the disc.
The magnets in this type of mounting are on the face of the disc, not on the
edge. Many engine type magnet placements are on a face plate which is install
on the damper wheel by press fit.
I was at first was going to glue the magnets right onto my shaft coupler, but
Otmar said, the magnets need to be place a larger diameter, because the timing
of the ON-OFF pulse may be too short for this type of installation.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Chew<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 4:37 AM
Subject: Tacho sender ideas
Hi All,
I am about to make a tachometer. Well, actually use a frequency to voltage
convertor IC from national, the LM2917. Awesome chip can set the RPM (limit)
to any voltage you want and because RPM and voltage is linear, therefore,
can be displayed using a LED bargraph or voltmeter.
Only thing is, I want install in on my 6.7" ADC motor on the shaft coupling.
Only place I can find with access to the motor shaft. I want to use a hall
effect sensor to detect a magnetic field caused by a small magnet I will
glue (anyone have a better idea to mount?) on the shaft. I am worried that
since hall effect sensors are very sensitive to magnetic field changes, the
sensor is located very close to the motor and I am afraid that I will get
too much interference from the motor to get any sensible reading from the
magnet on the shaft.
Any ideas, I don't want a CD optical tacho sender method either. Anyone know
of or brand of, a transmitting and receiving photodiode that will detect a
white dot on the shaft. And also, will a magnet cause much vibrations on the
motor shaft at high revs??
Cheers
--- End Message ---
