EV Digest 5071
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Open Source Modular Battery
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Budget EV - motor mount and coupler
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budget
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: transporting the glider
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: transporting the glider
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budget
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Neg supply for E-meter
by "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Electric Car just few Votes away from Grabbing the #1 Spot!
by "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Motor Shaft to Flywheel Coupling
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
10) Re: Motor Shafts
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) (Fwd) Save a Green Car from the Crusher
by "Clyde R. Visser, P.E." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Motor Shafts
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Neg supply for E-meter
by "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Breaking in ADC Motor, Comm Stones and stuff
by "Joe Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) unsubscribe
by "David Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Neg supply for E-meter
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budget
by "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---Keeping in the idea of open source designs I have an idea about modular batteries. I work in the telecom industry and have been putting in backup battery banks for near 10 years now. Typically telco batteries come in 2v cells and they make pretty neat rack shelves to house high voltage systems that make strapping less of a hassle. Although strapping 2V cells in an EV would still be an extreme hassle. My idea would be to design a 12V (or 2V or 6V or 8V) cell block that had size dimensions like 4"X6" and 6" to 12" deep. Each cell would have a tapered + post on one side and a mating - socket on the other. The cells would stack in strings of whatever voltage with 2 to 4 strings in a tray. Trays could be built such that inserting a string compresses and holds the cell blocks together. Now you could buy or build trays in whatever size array you need based on the cell block dimensions. Between cell blocks there would be no jumpers required. You would only need jumpers on each end of a string. In the case of a pickup or a car without a unibody you could make a string nearly the length of the vehicle (or partly based on shape of the frame members.) The same blocks could be set in an square array to fit inside the trunk of a small car. Or the tray could be built to form to an odd shape cutout in the floor of a unibody. In pretty much the same way I see people arranging 12V blocks to neatly fill the space, just imagine if our 12V blocks had these pressure fit post and sockets out each side (or front/back). The design wold take into account cell expansion and so the posts would only insert so far into a socket to maintain the perscribed spacing gap. Mike<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---pics 6 and 7 in this lineup give the basic idea of a clutch plate center adaptor. Remember though you lose the use of the clutch. http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/4429/cl3.htm -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Glenn Meader Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 2:50 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Budget EV - motor mount and coupler Was Re: Geo Metro EV on a budget > jerryd says: Use 2 box sections to mount the motor and a make a coupler > with the clutch plate center brings this to about $60. Could you give more details on this? What's a "box section"? How do you make a coupler with a clutch plate center for $60? Any writeups on this?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- The lower the better for the batteries. The controller could care less as long as you stay below the continous rating. Go above. Look to spend some money. That being said. A controller can fail at any time. I was crusing at 100 amps at 45mph and all hell broke lose. You have to have contactors & breakers for safety. When my 144vdc contoller went it was full speed & everything failed to stop the car. Letting off the throttle. Turning the key off. The fuse didn't blow & the contactor fused. The breaker saved me & the motor. Lawrence Rhodes...... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill & Nancy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 7:36 PM Subject: Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budget1 hr rating @ 200 amps. I hadn't even considered the controller specs. It is best for pack longevity to keep running amps below 100? Just learning as much as I can about driving the vw and the most efficiant operating range. There is a lot of information on the list, but it can get confusing.Bill Lawrence Rhodes wrote:We're just comparing here. I'd say on level ground at a little over 40 mph I draw anywhere from 60 to 90 amps depending which way the wind is blowing. This is just for comparison. I'm not saying weather it is good or bad. You have to look at your controller specs. to determine that. Look at the continuous rating and keep it there or less. Lawrence Rhodes........... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill & Nancy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 1:12 PM Subject: Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budgetYour recommendation is to run 90 amps or less on a 120 volt system, so running 150 amps or less on a 72 volt system would be equal?Bill Lawrence Rhodes wrote:Sorry. 120v system. That's the problem with low voltage systems. High amp draw at speed. However if you keep your speed down low voltage systems can be quite useful. The 72vdc system would also draw less amps. LR.........----- Original Message ----- From: "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 6:54 AM Subject: Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budget"90 amps or less" With how many volts ? --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Pretty good for 48vdc but notice on the flats I'd be drawing90amps or less.Less volts more amps to do the same work. Ohm's Law. LawrenceRhodes.....----- Original Message ----- From: "jmygann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:32 PM Subject: Re: Fw: Geo Metro EV on a budget > So I got the Metro going .... > > > APPROX. - 43mph ....4th gear 210amps on the flat.....48 volts > > Is this in the ball park ?? > > Only have a digital multi meter. 53.4 volts starting (is that afull> charge ?) > > > >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---On Jan 7, 2006, at 8:26 PM, Seth Rothenberg wrote:I'm taking a look at a car soon, if I buy it, it would need to be moved 214 miles. I was wondering if the list could share their experience.I drove from Bend to Las Vegas (860 miles) to pick up my Karmann Ghia glider. The whole story is on my blog at <http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/weblog/travel/ Las_Vegas_09_03.html>.I bought a tow bar - you'll almost certainly be towing your vehicle at some point. $50 from <http://www.cip1.com/>.Borrowed my in-laws' Plymouth Astro Van, which was already set up for towing their outdoor toys. No worrying about hitch or tranny.Drove it to Paisley (180 miles), where I borrowed a flatbed trailer from my wife's uncle.Dragged the trailer to Las Vegas, bought some ratchet straps at a local trailer supply place, loaded up the Ghia, and drove it to Paisley.Returned the trailer and gave the uncle the burned-up engine and all the ICE-related parts I didn't want in exchange for the loan of the trailer.Dragged the Ghia home with the tow bar.It worked out really well. The van drank a lot of gas, but it was far cheaper than any of the other ways I looked into (the ones you have listed below. I got to look the car over before taking delivery, and got to talk to the PO. Plus we spent a few days in Las Vegas!Vehicle weight must be over 3000 lbs (that's with some batteries :-). I see some options 1) pay a transporter - not likely, $800 first quote I got 2) Move it myself A) My Odyssey - I would need to buy a hitch ($99 ebay, but it is planned anyway), and a tow bar ($49 ebay) or rent a tow dolly from UHaul However, this means trusting the back tires of the car and giving the Hoda's Xmission a workout (though this is the third Xmission in it, since the first 2 went bad under the extended warrantee/non-recall) B) Borrow a van - eg, inlaws, buy them a hitch, then buy tow bar or rent a car trailer. This means trusting their transmission. C) Rent a truck - Penske wanted $400 one way, without adding the cost of the trailer D) Rent a truck - A friend of mine said rent one wide enough to winch the car into. I had already discounted that idea, but I would be curious if it has ever been tried. Probably violates TOS but I see "Horseless Carriage" around here often. 3) Seller delivers - either buy the tow bar and lend it to him, or pay for him to rent a trailer (I can ask if he has one :-) I was wondering what people have done, what works.... 1 and 3 have the lowest liability on my part, (and I could probably work that day - pay for the move :-) I would need to examine the tires before transporting it on its own wheels, which is not cool, because I would want to know what to expect before going down there. BTW, I mentioned in the other thread, I'll need to tow it to be inspected and registered, so the tow bar and hitch are basically sunk costs. (Also, someday, you can imagine the call home: "Honey, the batteries are down, the controller is fried, could you get the tow bar from the shed and drive down here to pick me up....")-- Doug Weathers Bend, OR, USA <http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---Hi Seth ,Your last answer kind of say it all ,. as a total of 418 is going to take at least 8 hours to drive1 and 3 have the lowest liability on my part,(and I could probably work that day - pay for the move :-)The tow bar can be a hair raising experance , I've have cars that for some reason didn't tow right. Please don't for get to take the car out of gear , as I think more motors have died from being towed in gear then on the drag strip. I think I'd rent a tow dolly or borrow mine :-) could put an ad in the paper , like " I'm getting a battery powered electric car and need some help moving and restoring it ." what better way to spread the word about ev;s ., January 07, 2006 1 4:11aMI'm taking a look at a car soon, if I buy it, it would need to be moved 214 miles. I was wondering if the list could share their experience. Vehicle weight must be over 3000 lbs (that's with some batteries :-). I see some options 1) pay a transporter - not likely, $800 first quote I got 2) Move it myself A) My Odyssey - I would need to buy a hitch ($99 ebay, but it is planned anyway), and a tow bar ($49 ebay) or rent a tow dolly from UHaul However, this means trusting the back tires of the car and giving the Hoda's Xmission a workout (though this is the third Xmission in it, since the first 2 went bad under the extended warrantee/non-recall) B) Borrow a van - eg, inlaws, buy them a hitch, then buy tow bar or rent a car trailer. This means trusting their transmission. C) Rent a truck - Penske wanted $400 one way, without adding the cost of the trailer D) Rent a truck - A friend of mine said rent one wide enough to winch the car into. I had already discounted that idea, but I would be curious if it has ever been tried. Probably violates TOS but I see "Horseless Carriage" around here often. 3) Seller delivers - either buy the tow bar and lend it to him, or pay for him to rent a trailer (I can ask if he has one :-) I was wondering what people have done, what works.... I would need to examine the tires before transporting it on its own wheels, which is not cool, because I would want to know what to expect before going down there. BTW, I mentioned in the other thread, I'll need to tow it to be inspected and registered, so the tow bar and hitch are basically sunk costs. (Also, someday, you can imagine the call home: "Honey, the batteries are down, the controller is fried, could you get the tow bar from the shed and drive down here to pick me up....")
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---At 01:06 AM 8/01/06 -0800, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:That being said. A controller can fail at any time. I was crusing at 100 amps at 45mph and all hell broke lose. You have to have contactors & breakers for safety. When my 144vdc contoller went it was full speed & everything failed to stop the car. Letting off the throttle. Turning the key off. The fuse didn't blow & the contactor fused. The breaker saved me & the motor. .Hi Lawrence What controller? Regards James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---I suggest to look at (used) laptop power supplies. They are always switchers (you can use them from 100 - 240V AC, so they should be fine up to 360V DC, which limits the voltage (during eq charge) to about 22 x 12V batteries or 264V system. They have plenty of output current (3+ Amp) and often deliver around 15 - 18V. One currently on Ebay for $5 +$8 shipping: Item nr 6837357331 You can still look in your junk-box for old power supplies - make sure they have a wide input voltage range. Success, Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rush Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 2:40 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Neg supply for E-meter Lee, Would this one work - http://datasheet.astrodyne.com/PWB.pdf Model AFC-15S, output V- 15vdc, output A - 0.66, output W - 10W, input V - 85-265vac? sorta pricy, $39 from them. Thanks Rush Tucson AZ www.ironandwood.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 12:29 PM Subject: Re: Neg supply for E-meter > From: damon henry >> I still have a couple more questions specific to my application. I don't >> currently have an accesory battery, just a DC-DC converter. The negative >> side of my DC-DC is connected to my frame. The E-meter manual states >> that I must connect pin one to both the negative side of my traction pack >> as well as the negative supply for the E-meter. This of course connects >> the negative side of my traction pack to the negative side of my DC-DC >> and my frame. This sounds bad... > > Correct! You can't power the E-meter directly from your 12v accessory power. > >>The manual offers two options... > > There is another option, which I prefer. Get a small switching power supply > that can run directly off your traction pack, and which has an isolated 12v > output to power the E-meter (and nothing else). The E-meter takes so little > power that this can be a "wall wart" or old laptop power brick. Just make > sure it is a SWITCHING power supply, not one with a 60hz transformer! > > Almost all low-power switchers have "universal" inputs and work on AC or > DC, at anything from 90-300v. For example, I use an Astrodyne 15vdc > 0.5amp switcher. It is rated for 90-264vac input, but actually works from > 60-350vdc. It's a little potted "brick", and would even work underwater. > > The advantage of this approach is that the little switcher is more efficient > than having to run the main DC/DC just to power a *second* DC/DC to get > the 25ma or so the E-meter needs. The Astrodyne I use draws 4-9ma from > my 132v propulsion pack, depending on whether the E-meter is asleep or in > full sunlight. A normal "full-size" DC/DC would draw over 20ma even with NO > load on its output. > -- > Lee Hart > > >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---Hi All, >email >Stay Charged! > >Hump > >http://www.dragtimes.com/Mazda-RX-7-Timeslip-7519.html >http://www.dragtimes.com/Datsun-1200-Timeslip-7484.html >http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-240SX-Timeslip-7382.html > > Waylands is now #2 with 1200 votes, Matt's is now #8 and Rod is #13 !! Way to go. Going like this we shound get them in 1-2-3 in a week or so.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---It seems like this is where most of the beginners falter. I have seen some pretty bad setups over the years, and I have also seen some good ones. Most conversion books say stick with the professionals. Have them make you a nice taper lock and go with that. I've seen the old set screw idea, on my first car. I've also heard of people doing that. I'm sure people have tried press fits and welding. Welding is risky business if you get it out of round. Your motor will pretty much be scrap if you mess it up. Stick with the professionals ... or at least seek the guidance of an experienced Mechanical Engineer and Machinist. Well, I did that. I consulted with "myself" and a few of my friends. But, I am still not sure if my set-up will work. I have a unique situation of a nonstandard "motor shaft." Actually, my motor shaft has several options: 1. The motor shaft itself has a 7/8" diameter (max OD) x 1-1/2" length, 13 tooth straight splined shaft. That leaves a few options: A. Use a 7/8" diameter taper lock over that shaft. But, I am not sure it will have the surface area to transmit the torque. Also, there is no keyway, so I am concerned about that. Available from McMaster.com (5926K22 Steel Quick-Grip Keyless Bushing for 7/8" Shaft Size, for 1-3/4" Component Bore In stock at $53.15 Each) B. As suggested by others on the EVDL, get the mating part for that 7/8", 13 tooth splined shaft. I do have it. But, it is also an odd shape. There is an area on is about 1.61" diameter by 1" length. But, where can I get a taper lock to fit over a 1.61" diameter. It is not even close to any of the sizes I have seen. Maybe the closest is 19 mm. But, I am not sure how much variation those taper lock connections can accommodate. I looked at making a custom adapter for that thing. Grind in 2 D flats 180 degrees apart and slide over a custom mating part. The problem is that the mating part will have four inside corners with 0 radius that can't be made with conventional milling. The only way I see to make this is wire EDM which makes the adapter cost about 5x my motor cost. Also grinding those flats into the hardened steel gear is a total nightmare. This would work, but very expensive. C. Custom design a coupler with the mating inside spline that bolts up to the flywheel and slides over the motor shaft. No problem to design this. I can model it up in CAD and get it machined, but again, it has many 0 radius inside corners and can only be made with wire EDM. 2. Flip the motor the other way and use the 1" non keyed tail shaft. I didn't want to do this. I was planning to cut that shaft off. Also, it has no keyway. The motor face mounting holes on this side are smaller bolt size and there are only 3 of them. It would be much better to bolt up to the actual motor face. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---Hey Steve I wanted to stop a little myth here as far as shafts are concerned. If ones shaft happens to be of a type that can not be used (or used easily), or in fact is broken or incorrectly machined by a local guy the motor is not ruined. I can press new (and sometimes salvage) shafts into the armature so that the motor is not only repaired but in fact becomes a little more EV usable. I would highly advise people to not weld anything onto the shaft as this will make doing a bearing change extreemly difficult. As far as using the opposite shaft end with no keyway, you could easily find soemone to cut one as a low cost option. This option would use the CE (I assume?) as the drive end. This could cause even more heat to be put on the brush end, and you could end up with a CE bearing burner. I do see lifttruck drive motor using the CE as the drive end but for EV's it may not be the best choice. Rather than cut the shaft off maybe you could use it for an RPM sensor even if it needed to be trimmed down, as an RPM gauge would be nice to have for all users. I did a re-shaft for Howard down in Cali (couple months back) after a local shop botched a shaft extention attempt. I actually used one of Waylands old ADC8 shafts (a spoil of war) and mod'ed it to go into one of those 15" Prestolite motor without issues. So hopefully Howard is out there cruising in his Rabbit with a little Wayland legend under the hood, lmao. I'm actually moding an ADC9 shaft to go into the 12 brushed MKB motor I have pics of on my site some of you may have seen. The down side to the re-shaft option is having to ship it to me or someone who specializes in these DC motors. Any WE should be able to press shafts. I can tell you that by the time you buy adapters and machine shops mods you may be getting close or possibly exceeded the costs of just re-shafting your armature. Now, not all motors are created equal so I'd need a motor number (or pic) to see what options you have for this motor. Thought you could use this info before making up your mind as to how you want to proceed. Best of luck Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It seems like this is where most of the beginners falter. I have seen some pretty bad setups over the years, and I have also seen some good ones. Most conversion books say stick with the professionals. Have them make you a nice taper lock and go with that. I've seen the old set screw idea, on my first car. I've also heard of people doing that. I'm sure people have tried press fits and welding. Welding is risky business if you get it out of round. Your motor will pretty much be scrap if you mess it up. Stick with the professionals ... or at least seek the guidance of an experienced Mechanical Engineer and Machinist. Well, I did that. I consulted with "myself" and a few of my friends. But, I am still not sure if my set-up will work. I have a unique situation of a nonstandard "motor shaft." Actually, my motor shaft has several options: 1. The motor shaft itself has a 7/8" diameter (max OD) x 1-1/2" length, 13 tooth straight splined shaft. That leaves a few options: A. Use a 7/8" diameter taper lock over that shaft. But, I am not sure it will have the surface area to transmit the torque. Also, there is no keyway, so I am concerned about that. Available from McMaster.com (5926K22 Steel Quick-Grip Keyless Bushing for 7/8" Shaft Size, for 1-3/4" Component Bore In stock at $53.15 Each) B. As suggested by others on the EVDL, get the mating part for that 7/8", 13 tooth splined shaft. I do have it. But, it is also an odd shape. There is an area on is about 1.61" diameter by 1" length. But, where can I get a taper lock to fit over a 1.61" diameter. It is not even close to any of the sizes I have seen. Maybe the closest is 19 mm. But, I am not sure how much variation those taper lock connections can accommodate. I looked at making a custom adapter for that thing. Grind in 2 D flats 180 degrees apart and slide over a custom mating part. The problem is that the mating part will have four inside corners with 0 radius that can't be made with conventional milling. The only way I see to make this is wire EDM which makes the adapter cost about 5x my motor cost. Also grinding those flats into the hardened steel gear is a total nightmare. This would work, but very expensive. C. Custom design a coupler with the mating inside spline that bolts up to the flywheel and slides over the motor shaft. No problem to design this. I can model it up in CAD and get it machined, but again, it has many 0 radius inside corners and can only be made with wire EDM. 2. Flip the motor the other way and use the 1" non keyed tail shaft. I didn't want to do this. I was planning to cut that shaft off. Also, it has no keyway. The motor face mounting holes on this side are smaller bolt size and there are only 3 of them. It would be much better to bolt up to the actual motor face. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve --------------------------------- Yahoo! Photos Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---------- Forwarded message follows ------- Date sent: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 13:10:58 -0500 From: Patrick Drone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Save a Green Car from the Crusher To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Anyone Who Can Help , My name is Patrick Drone, and recently when I was searching the internet for scrap steel I came across something that caught my eye. It was an electric 1997 s-10. After researching getting it transported I made the choose that it was to far away for me to take advantage of it. Because I am in Michigan and the truck is in Georgia. I am sending you hoping that someone in your electric vehicle organization can save it from the crusher. I would be unfortunate for a green vehicle especially one so rare to end up being sold for scrap metal and turned into another gas guzzler. The web site is http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=756819#ItemManifest or http://www.govliquidation.com/ and then search for "s-10 electric" I thank you for your time, Patrick Drone Props Artisan/Welder Ypsilanti, MI ------- End of forwarded message -------
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---Jim, Just curious about the press you use for re-shafting. I use a 10 ton triple compound press to do 1" diameter shafts on my 64 frame BLDC motors (these are used in busses to blow air on evaporators and condensors, usually 2 Hp continuous rating). I was thinking of pressing a new shaft in a golf cart motor I have sitting around. Do you use any locktite on the shaft? What type of splines do you put on the shaft? I use 8 total equally spaced with maximum upset height of 0.006", although I usually file these down slightly to make it press a little easier. Thanks, Rod --- Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hey Steve > > I wanted to stop a little myth here as far as > shafts are concerned. If ones shaft happens to be > of a type that can not be used (or used easily), or > in fact is broken or incorrectly machined by a local > guy the motor is not ruined. I can press new (and > sometimes salvage) shafts into the armature so that > the motor is not only repaired but in fact becomes a > little more EV usable. > > I would highly advise people to not weld anything > onto the shaft as this will make doing a bearing > change extreemly difficult. As far as using the > opposite shaft end with no keyway, you could easily > find soemone to cut one as a low cost option. This > option would use the CE (I assume?) as the drive > end. This could cause even more heat to be put on > the brush end, and you could end up with a CE > bearing burner. I do see lifttruck drive motor > using the CE as the drive end but for EV's it may > not be the best choice. > Rather than cut the shaft off maybe you could use > it for an RPM sensor even if it needed to be trimmed > down, as an RPM gauge would be nice to have for all > users. > > I did a re-shaft for Howard down in Cali (couple > months back) after a local shop botched a shaft > extention attempt. I actually used one of Waylands > old ADC8 shafts (a spoil of war) and mod'ed it to go > into one of those 15" Prestolite motor without > issues. So hopefully Howard is out there cruising > in his Rabbit with a little Wayland legend under the > hood, lmao. > > I'm actually moding an ADC9 shaft to go into the > 12 brushed MKB motor I have pics of on my site some > of you may have seen. The down side to the re-shaft > option is having to ship it to me or someone who > specializes in these DC motors. Any WE should be > able to press shafts. I can tell you that by the > time you buy adapters and machine shops mods you may > be getting close or possibly exceeded the costs of > just re-shafting your armature. Now, not all motors > are created equal so I'd need a motor number (or > pic) to see what options you have for this motor. > > Thought you could use this info before making up > your mind as to how you want to proceed. > Best of luck > Jim Husted > Hi-Torque Electric > > > > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > It seems like this is where most of the beginners > falter. I have seen some > pretty bad setups over the years, and I have also > seen some good ones. Most > conversion books say stick with the professionals. > Have them make you a nice > taper lock and go with that. I've seen the old set > screw idea, on my first car. > I've also heard of people doing that. I'm sure > people have tried press fits > and welding. Welding is risky business if you get it > out of round. Your > motor will pretty much be scrap if you mess it up. > > Stick with the professionals ... or at least seek > the guidance of an > experienced Mechanical Engineer and Machinist. Well, > I did that. I consulted with > "myself" and a few of my friends. But, I am still > not sure if my set-up will > work. I have a unique situation of a nonstandard > "motor shaft." Actually, my > motor shaft has several options: > > 1. The motor shaft itself has a 7/8" diameter (max > OD) x 1-1/2" length, 13 > tooth straight splined shaft. That leaves a few > options: > A. Use a 7/8" diameter taper lock over that shaft. > But, I am not > sure it will have the surface area to transmit the > torque. Also, there is no > keyway, so I am concerned about that. Available from > McMaster.com (5926K22 > Steel Quick-Grip Keyless Bushing for 7/8" Shaft > Size, for 1-3/4" Component Bore In > stock at $53.15 Each) > B. As suggested by others on the EVDL, get the > mating part for that > 7/8", 13 tooth splined shaft. I do have it. But, it > is also an odd shape. > There is an area on is about 1.61" diameter by 1" > length. But, where can I get > a taper lock to fit over a 1.61" diameter. It is not > even close to any of > the sizes I have seen. Maybe the closest is 19 mm. > But, I am not sure how much > variation those taper lock connections can > accommodate. I looked at making a > custom adapter for that thing. Grind in 2 D flats > 180 degrees apart and > slide over a custom mating part. The problem is that > the mating part will have > four inside corners with 0 radius that can't be made > with conventional milling. > The only way I see to make this is wire EDM which > makes the adapter cost > about 5x my motor cost. Also grinding those flats > into the hardened steel gear is > a total nightmare. This would work, but very > expensive. > C. Custom design a coupler with the mating inside > spline that bolts > up to the flywheel and slides over the motor shaft. > No problem to design > this. I can model it up in CAD and get it machined, > but again, it has many 0 > radius inside corners and can only be made with wire > EDM. > > 2. Flip the motor the other way and use the 1" non > keyed tail shaft. I > didn't want to do this. I was planning to cut that > shaft off. Also, it has no > keyway. The motor face mounting holes on this side > are smaller bolt size and > there are only 3 of them. It would be much better to > bolt up to the actual motor > face. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Steve > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! Photos > Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality > prints in your hands ASAP. > >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Thanks for all the suggestions. One thing that limits my options is that my pack voltage is a nominal 55 volts goes up to about 75 volts on charge. I horde laptop power supplies, but all the ones I have are rated at a minimum 100V, and when I put them to the test, they really did need 100V. Also have several switching power supplies that I originally bought off E-bay to be a DC-DC. They are rated at 20V-56V DC input. They really do need 20V before they turn on, and they outputs start to sag after the voltage raises above 60V. At 70V the 15V output drops to just over 10V no load and 5V with a car taillight hooked up, so these seem like they would be an unrelieable source of power during charge.I've decided just to tuck my 13ah Hawker back under the gas tank and use it to supply the E-meter. I will charge it seperately.One more point of clarification that would be nice. The manual is very explicit in stating that the negative e-meter power and the negative traction pack must be tied together. At first I thought this meant that I would need to cable the negative lead of my Aux battery to the Negative lead of my traction pack, then I noticed on the diagram that pin 1 on the E-meter is connected to both the neg power supply and the load side of the shunt on the neg side of the traction pack through the prescaler. It looks to me like this is the common connection and I don't need to make a seperate connection. Is this correct?thanks damonCorrect! You can't power the E-meter directly from your 12v accessory power.>The manual offers two options... There is another option, which I prefer. Get a small switching power supply that can run directly off your traction pack, and which has an isolated 12v output to power the E-meter (and nothing else). The E-meter takes so little power that this can be a "wall wart" or old laptop power brick. Just make sure it is a SWITCHING power supply, not one with a 60hz transformer!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---I have some, and they are still available through motor repair shops. Try an automotive starter or alternator shop in your vicinity. Joseph H. Strubhar E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Web: www.gremcoinc.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 9:33 AM Subject: Re: Breaking in ADC Motor, Comm Stones and stuff > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 12:04 PM > Subject: Re: Breaking in ADC Motor > > > > I did more or less the same thing... but mine was out of the car on a work > bench. > > > > I have a 9" ADC motor and some older T-105's, so I ganged 2 of the T-105's > together, hooked a 12 v charger up to them and then hooked that up to the 9' > ADC. I also hooked up a Vmeter to see the voltage. It would run for about > 1/2 hr until the v showed about 10.5 v. I unhooked the motor, charged the > T-105's for about 4 hrs and hooked up the motor, let it run for about 1/2 hr > and then did the whole thing over again. The routine went on for about 4 > days, the brushes got about 1/2 seated and I stopped the process. > > > > I should start it again to get them fully seated. > > Hi All; > > Well you can do this for DAYS! Howbout a "Comm Stone" as we used to call > them on the RR? You used this soft stone like bar to grind onto the comm, it > was very abrasive, but would wear down the brushes quickly Jim Husted would > be able to tell ya more about their use, I'm sure?But I havent seen or heard > of EV guys using them nowadaze, like WHERE would ya get one today?I would > say go ahead and drive, but no heavy current draws til the brushes seat. I > remember the brush wine on locomotives just out of the shop. Nobody ever > said " Go Easy" on a lokie's motors when they came out of the shop. Of > course the banks of brushes in an RR TM probably made the loads on each > brush a lot less? > > My two brushes worth. > > Sreeya > > Bob > > Rush > > Tucson AZ > > www.ironandwood.org > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[email protected]> > > Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 8:01 AM > > Subject: Breaking in ADC Motor > > > > > > > I've attached a 8-inch ADC motor (new) attached to the transmission, and > I'd > > > like to break in the motor by running it at low voltage for 24 hours. > I've > > > got a 600 watt power supply at 13.2V. Is the power draw from the ADC > low > > > enough that if I hooked the power supply to a 12V battery, then hooked > the > > > battery to the motor, things would run for 24 hours without draining the > > > battery? > > > > > > Thanks. > > > > > > Bill Dennis > > > > > > > > > > > > >
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---Hello Lawrence, The volume of email is to overwhelming for me to digest and stay informed with my other interest. Thank you very much David
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---Hello to All, Damon Henry wrote:Thanks for all the suggestions. The manual is very explicit in stating that the negative e-meter power and the negative traction pack must be tied together. At first I thought this meant that I would need to cable the negative lead of my Aux battery to the Negative lead of my traction pack, then I noticed on the diagram that pin 1 on the E-meter is connected to both the neg power supply and the load side of the shunt on the neg side of the traction pack through the prescaler. It looks to me like this is the common connection and I don't need to make a seperate connection. Is this correct?No, it's not correct...go with your first thought! You need to run separate twisted leads from the proper terminals of the Emeter (2 & 3) to the shunt, one to the negative pack side of the shunt's little screw terminals, the other to the load side little screw terminal. If you went with using the common connection you mention, the one that goes to the HV negative, as the Emeter draws power through that wire it would alter the interpretation of the shunt's outputs. You also, must have the pack negative and the Emeter's 12V power supply's negative connected together to the Emeter's terminal 1...this is why a separate non-grounded 12V supply is needed, otherwise you get the HV pack's negative grounded to the vehicle chassis.To recap: Terminal 1....Emeter 12V negative & HV pack negative, Terminal 2....HV pack load side screw terminal of shunt (green wire), Terminal 3....HV pack negative side screw terminal of shunt (orange wire), Terminal 4....HV pack +, Terminal 5....Emeter 12V +You still need a 36/48V rated contactor? I've got a nice dual (2 N/O contact pairs) line contactor for you and I'm home (on and off) today if you want to come get it from me (free, is a very good price). I know I've been hard to get in touch with lately, but you can finally catch up with me today...call first to make sure I'm home.See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---How fast can you go @ 100 amps ? How many volts ? --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Bill & Nancy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > 1 hr rating @ 200 amps. I hadn't even considered the controller specs. > It is best for pack longevity to keep running amps below 100? Just > learning as much as I can about driving the vw and the most efficiant > operating range.
--- End Message ---
