EV Digest 5107
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) RE: Neg supply for E-meter
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: chevy astro conversion?
by "Dave Davidson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: chevy astro conversion?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Electric race car (?) on eBay
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
6) Re: chevy astro conversion?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Re: chevy astro conversion?
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) EV music?
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by Tim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: the old NEDRA Charter
by Tim Clevenger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Joule Injected race day (Part 2)
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Battery Beach Burnout
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) RE: the old NEDRA Charter
by "Grannes, Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: EV music?
by Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) RE: EV music?
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Rabbit Stuff
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: the old NEDRA Charter
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) QD taperlock bushing PN needed
by "Mark Ward" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: One day away till Battery Beach Burnout
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
If anyone is interested - I tested two types of power supplies
that I have a handfull of each type.
One is a 100 - 120V AC to 12V 1.25A that I found truly amazing,
it started supplying 12V output when connected to 18V (!!!) DC.
To power a 12V 5W (400mA) lamp I needed to turn the voltage up to
35V DC, but still much below the specified 100V AC.
I used to have a box full of these, but trashed most because they
were taking up space in my lab that I wanted to use. About 7 left.
The other one is a 100 - 240V AC switcher, 9V 1.1A output.
This one started to supply the full power to the 12V 5W lamp when
connected to 55V DC. I have about 15 of these.
Brand of this supply is AK2 http://www.ak2power.com/
model number A10D2-09MP (US plug)
There should be many other supplies that can power an E-meter
reliably, just hook them to a lab supply and try.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Cor van de Water
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 3:34 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Neg supply for E-meter
Interesting data point:
I tried a handful of "switching" power supplies on 70V DC
(all were spec'ed between 100 and 240V AC) and half of them
did supply output power at such low input voltage!
NOTE that you will have to cut the max output power at least
in half, because the input voltage is half, so the input
current is double the usual - you don't want to blow a fuse
or switching transistor...
No guarantees, but I certainly would give a surplus laptop
or other isolated switching DC supply a test on 70V DC, see
if it can power a small 12V (or whatever the output voltage)
load and MEASURE the output it supplies, then check and see
if the E-meter is happy....
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of STEVE CLUNN
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:51 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Neg supply for E-meter
I wasn't to clear , my mower set up is with 12v orbitals so with a 400 amp
curtis , it dose have some power , for a lawn mower. . I wasn't talking
about the voltage sense , just powering the meter ,( but somthing would have
to be done for this to ) I was thinking that the transistor and resistor
would be in oppisite places as you described so the resistor would pass the
same current as the meter and zenor would split the current with the meter ,
and protect the meter from going over set voltage .
all in all , its probable best to buy some power supply to get the isolation
, and not take a chance .
steve clunn 4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: RE: Neg supply for E-meter
> Sounds like either:
> - voltage divider, feeding a follower transistor which can withstand 120V.
> The current through the resistors should be low, under 5mA. The transistor
> carries the same current as the E-meter and dissipates between 50 and 90V
> at that current.
> If the max current of the E-meter is 100mA, the transistor will take
> up to 9W, much more than Lee's solution but likely cheaper.
> - big zener diode + resistor.
> The resistor will need to carry MORE current than the E-meter ever draws,
> so this is even less efficient, likely you will dissipate 20W continuous
> and you will need a zener that can handle up to 200mA at 15V or more,
> so a 3+ Watt zener. This is a rather crude solution....
>
> BTW if your pack is 96V (8x12?) how can your min voltage be 70?
> I would think you need to keep it over 1.75 - 1.67V per cell, so
> about 80 - 84V?
>
> Regards,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of STEVE CLUNN
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 5:01 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Neg supply for E-meter
>
>
> I kind of have the same problem you do , with my e mower , pack voltage is
> 96v , and I have no 12v alx battery . I was thinking , e meter takes 80 ma
> max , min pack voltage will be 70 , max voltage to meter 35v , so to power
> the meter off traction pack , I could have a 400 ohm resistor ( 10 watts
> min) for the traction pack + going to the meter b+ , at the meter b+ have
> a
> regulator to ground to keep the meter b+ for going over 35v . The
> regulator
> would have to pass at least 250 ma to deal with 120v battery charge
> voltage
>
> and e meter in sleep mode using just 20 ma.
> steve clunn 3
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "damon henry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 1:50 PM
> Subject: RE: Neg supply for E-meter
>
>
>> Actually, there is very little wiring on the motorcycle and most of it I
>> have replaced already. If it weren't for the way the dumb lights are
>> made, I could easily isolate my whole 12volt system from the frame.
>> Unfortunately all the lights mounting hardware is built expecting the
>> negative side of the power equation from the frame, so even if I ran a
>> seperate ground wire to each, I would also have to figure out a way to
>> isolate the individual hardware piece from the frame. That is just not
>> worth the effort...
>>
>> damon
>>
>>
>>>From: Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>Reply-To: [email protected]
>>>To: [email protected]
>>>Subject: RE: Neg supply for E-meter
>>>Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 00:45:34 -0900
>>>
>>>Not to change the subject from the E-meter problem but 10 of those babies
>>>would give the requisite 30A at 12V (nominal) to run an accessory system.
>>>Keep 'em cool enough, the input wires protected and you wouldn't have to
>>>worry about isolating their chassis' from your frame ground. Throw a
>>>Trace
>>>(now Xantrex)C-40 charge controller inline and there's an inexpensive
>>>alternatve to DC-DC converters. More versatile too.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>Behalf Of Cor van de Water
>>>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 1:09 AM
>>>To: [email protected]
>>>Subject: RE: Neg supply for E-meter
>>>
>>>
>>>I suggest to look at (used) laptop power supplies.
>>>They are always switchers (you can use them from
>>>100 - 240V AC, so they should be fine up to 360V
>>>DC, which limits the voltage (during eq charge)
>>>to about 22 x 12V batteries or 264V system.
>>>They have plenty of output current (3+ Amp) and
>>>often deliver around 15 - 18V.
>>>
>>>One currently on Ebay for $5 +$8 shipping:
>>>Item nr 6837357331
>>>
>>>You can still look in your junk-box for old
>>>power supplies - make sure they have a wide
>>>input voltage range.
>>>
>>>Success,
>>>
>>>Cor van de Water
>>>Systems Architect
>>>Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
>>>Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
>>>Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
>>>Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
>>>Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>Behalf Of Rush
>>>Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 2:40 PM
>>>To: [email protected]
>>>Subject: Re: Neg supply for E-meter
>>>
>>>
>>>Lee,
>>>
>>>Would this one work - http://datasheet.astrodyne.com/PWB.pdf
>>>
>>>Model AFC-15S, output V- 15vdc, output A - 0.66, output W - 10W, input
>>>V -
>>>85-265vac?
>>>
>>>sorta pricy, $39 from them.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>Rush
>>>Tucson AZ
>>>www.ironandwood.org
>>>
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>To: <[email protected]>
>>>Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 12:29 PM
>>>Subject: Re: Neg supply for E-meter
>>>
>>>
>>> > From: damon henry
>>> >> I still have a couple more questions specific to my application. I
>>>don't
>>> >> currently have an accesory battery, just a DC-DC converter. The
>>>negative
>>> >> side of my DC-DC is connected to my frame. The E-meter manual states
>>> >> that I must connect pin one to both the negative side of my traction
>>>pack
>>> >> as well as the negative supply for the E-meter. This of course
>>> >> connects
>>> >> the negative side of my traction pack to the negative side of my
>>> >> DC-DC
>>> >> and my frame. This sounds bad...
>>> >
>>> > Correct! You can't power the E-meter directly from your 12v accessory
>>>power.
>>> >
>>> >>The manual offers two options...
>>> >
>>> > There is another option, which I prefer. Get a small switching power
>>>supply
>>> > that can run directly off your traction pack, and which has an
>>> > isolated
>>>12v
>>> > output to power the E-meter (and nothing else). The E-meter takes so
>>>little
>>> > power that this can be a "wall wart" or old laptop power brick. Just
>>>make
>>> > sure it is a SWITCHING power supply, not one with a 60hz transformer!
>>> >
>>> > Almost all low-power switchers have "universal" inputs and work on AC
>>> > or
>>> > DC, at anything from 90-300v. For example, I use an Astrodyne 15vdc
>>> > 0.5amp switcher. It is rated for 90-264vac input, but actually works
>>>from
>>> > 60-350vdc. It's a little potted "brick", and would even work
>>> > underwater.
>>> >
>>> > The advantage of this approach is that the little switcher is more
>>>efficient
>>> > than having to run the main DC/DC just to power a *second* DC/DC to
>>> > get
>>> > the 25ma or so the E-meter needs. The Astrodyne I use draws 4-9ma from
>>> > my 132v propulsion pack, depending on whether the E-meter is asleep or
>>>in
>>> > full sunlight. A normal "full-size" DC/DC would draw over 20ma even
>>> > with
>>>NO
>>> > load on its output.
>>> > --
>>> > Lee Hart
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A regular English Lynch might work but and ETEK will melt. However on the
ETEK if you limit current to 90 amps at 72vdc it might work. I'd be
careful. The kind of vehicle also matters. Lighter in this case is better.
Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "TiM M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: 1231C and Lynch motor
Can a Curtis 1231C controller be used with a Lynch
motor? If so, where could I find a wiring diagram for
it?
TiM
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
Aloha. I'm really envious! I lived in Mililani, Oahu for 2 years in the
late 80's and loved everything but the prices. Visited the big island in
89. Walked out on the hot hardened lava and watched the molten lava flow -
about 3 weeks before the lava reached and burned down the south visitor
center. Also spent quite a bit at Hilo Hatties.
Anyway, some things to consider. I have a Dodge TEVan (Caravan) which has
30 180Ah NiCad batteries. The best I have been able to do is 45 miles,
although I think some have been able to do 60 miles in flatter areas.
Some S-10 pickup conversions have been able to do 100 miles with 40 6-volt
flooded golf cart batteries. Check the EV Album. (Actually, the original
was the Red Beastie, a Toyota pickup.) The Astro is built on the S-10
chassis, so a manual tranny from an S-10 should fit the Astro, which would
allow use of the S-10 adapter and some other kit pieces. S-10 aftermarket
parts will likely fit the Astro to give greater weight carrying capacity.
If you go this route, you will need to place the batteries where you can
water them. You might be better off just getting an extra cab S-10 to
convert.
You should also look at finding a place in town (Hilo?) to charge If you
can get someone to install a 240v 50a range/rv outlet (nema 14-50) and get a
PFC-50 charger, you would only need half the range and could recharge in a
few hours (shopping and dinner). Find a friend, pay to have the outlet
installed, and pay them for the electricity you use. Then convince them to
get an EV so the outlet doesn't go to waste between your visits...
Good luck and have fun
Dave Davidson
Glen Burnie, Maryland
From: lee parrish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: chevy astro conversion?
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 15:27:33 -0800 (PST)
I live on the island of Hawaii, locally known as the
Big Island, and it is much bigger than the other
islands that make up the chain. A round trip here
would be a about 250 miles. However, I very rarely
make this trip (2-3) times a year.
The range i am aiming for is about 70 miles (our once
a week town trip is about 63-65miles...30 mi. each way
plus driving around town. I figure to make this a
possibilty I would have to go with more expensive
batteries, AGM, or NiMH, or Lion, yes? This EV would
also have to be able to haul people and supplies, as
that is what we use it for, it's not a commute to work
run, it's a stock up on what we need run. So that is
why we I'm looking at a truck or van conversion.
Other than this run, we usually wouldn't drive more
than 20 mi roundtrip, and mostly less than 10 mi.
On the Astro van there would be plenty of room for
batteries under the rear floor, on either side of the
driveshaft (with the gas tank and exhaust system
removed of course). It has good clearance because it
is really a truck chassis.
Another option could be a similar sized, aluminum
delivery van, to save some vehicle weight, though we
don't have one of these at the moment, but we could
sell off the other vehicles to aquire one.
It seems possible to mount up to 500 watts of solar
panels on the roof of a van, to help charge on the go,
and just make the long drive on sunny days!
Does any of this sound doable, say if money is no
object, or am i just dreaming?
I dream of a production Toyota Truck hybrid with Lion
Plug in pack that will go 60mi on batteries, and get
100mph in hybrid mode...Toyota are you listening?
Thanks for the response Ricky,
Lee Parrish
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The orginal 1985 Astrovan got 28mpg. About what the other mini vans of the
time got. It is a light rearwheel drive van. It has a load capacity of
about 1500 pounds. I couldn't find the curb weight but it should be around
3000 pounds. LR>.............
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: chevy astro conversion?
Your probably looking at a lot of batteries or expensive batteries to have
70 miles with such a large, heavy, un-aerodynamic vehicle. It's doable
some how I'm sure. Hopefully others will comment on this. For a 10 or 20
mile trip that should be very doable, but that 70 mile trip is probably
pushing.
lee parrish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I live on the island of
Hawaii, locally known as the
Big Island, and it is much bigger than the other
islands that make up the chain. A round trip here
would be a about 250 miles. However, I very rarely
make this trip (2-3) times a year.
The range i am aiming for is about 70 miles (our once
a week town trip is about 63-65miles...30 mi. each way
plus driving around town. I figure to make this a
possibilty I would have to go with more expensive
batteries, AGM, or NiMH, or Lion, yes? This EV would
also have to be able to haul people and supplies, as
that is what we use it for, it's not a commute to work
run, it's a stock up on what we need run. So that is
why we I'm looking at a truck or van conversion.
Other than this run, we usually wouldn't drive more
than 20 mi roundtrip, and mostly less than 10 mi.
On the Astro van there would be plenty of room for
batteries under the rear floor, on either side of the
driveshaft (with the gas tank and exhaust system
removed of course). It has good clearance because it
is really a truck chassis.
Another option could be a similar sized, aluminum
delivery van, to save some vehicle weight, though we
don't have one of these at the moment, but we could
sell off the other vehicles to aquire one.
It seems possible to mount up to 500 watts of solar
panels on the roof of a van, to help charge on the go,
and just make the long drive on sunny days!
Does any of this sound doable, say if money is no
object, or am i just dreaming?
I dream of a production Toyota Truck hybrid with Lion
Plug in pack that will go 60mi on batteries, and get
100mph in hybrid mode...Toyota are you listening?
Thanks for the response Ricky,
Lee Parrish
Curious, which island are you on? The reason I ask is
because I visited
Kuwai and Maui a few months ago. Maui would lend
itself to typical
range issues, but I was thinking as we drove out big
Dodge Magnum around
Kuwai how ideally suited an EV would be for this
island. If you drove the
long way around the Island that was probably about the
useable range
for the electric right there. There would be no place
you couldn't
realistically drive it. Also I think the maximum speed
limit I saw was 50mph,
something that lends itself to efficient driving.
As far as the Van or the truck, either *could* be
done, but they're
going to end up heavy conversions. All the weight is
going to be your
enemy and your going to need more batteries (and more
battery weight) to
give a decent range. Dodge had their TEVan conversions
in the 90's. A
few still survive and I know they had good range, but
they also used
expensive flooded NiCad batteries. On the other hand
though, there'd
deffinitely be pleny of room for batteries.
lee parrish wrote:
aloha,
just wondering if anyone has ever converted a chevy
astro van, or know of any reason why it would.wouldn't
make a good candidate for an EV.
i've got a couple with auto trannies, a 94, and 95.
i'm thinking about converting one of them.
i've been living off grid here in hawaii for a few
years, and can install and maintain solar systems, but
am less mechanically inclined, at least when it comes
to engines, etc...i'm more of a nuts and bolts kinda
guy, so i'm attracted to EV's for their simplicity and
the thought that i could charge it up off our solar
system. even with my experience with solar electric
sytems, and general ICE mechanics, i'm new to this
idea, and still learning the EV "language" and
options.
i've also got an older dodge ram 50 with a manual
trans. 4x4 to play with.
any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly
appreciated. there doesn't seem to be a big EV scene
here, unless you count all the golf carts at the
resorts.
mahalo,
lee parrish
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What class would this fit in:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4606441374
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 1/19/06 7:02:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< The orginal 1985 Astrovan got 28mpg. About what the other mini vans of
the
time got. It is a light rearwheel drive van. It has a load capacity of
about 1500 pounds. I couldn't find the curb weight but it should be around
3000 pounds. LR>.............
----- Original Message ----- >>
*A pipefitter friend of mine drove one of these astros for over 200000 miles
with a 1500lb welder in the cargo area,even back an forth to Alaska,I
considered one for a conversion before the s10. D Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
With a van conversion you could get a generator
mounted where the spare tire goes.
I'm converting a 1986 toyota 4wd pickup. I guess if I
every add a generator...I'd have a hybrid.
--- Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Your probably looking at a lot of batteries or
> expensive batteries to have 70 miles with such a
> large, heavy, un-aerodynamic vehicle. It's doable
> some how I'm sure. Hopefully others will comment on
> this. For a 10 or 20 mile trip that should be very
> doable, but that 70 mile trip is probably pushing.
>
> lee parrish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I live
> on the island of Hawaii, locally known as the
> Big Island, and it is much bigger than the other
> islands that make up the chain. A round trip here
> would be a about 250 miles. However, I very rarely
> make this trip (2-3) times a year.
>
> The range i am aiming for is about 70 miles (our
> once
> a week town trip is about 63-65miles...30 mi. each
> way
> plus driving around town. I figure to make this a
> possibilty I would have to go with more expensive
> batteries, AGM, or NiMH, or Lion, yes? This EV would
> also have to be able to haul people and supplies, as
> that is what we use it for, it's not a commute to
> work
> run, it's a stock up on what we need run. So that is
> why we I'm looking at a truck or van conversion.
> Other than this run, we usually wouldn't drive more
> than 20 mi roundtrip, and mostly less than 10 mi.
>
> On the Astro van there would be plenty of room for
> batteries under the rear floor, on either side of
> the
> driveshaft (with the gas tank and exhaust system
> removed of course). It has good clearance because it
> is really a truck chassis.
>
> Another option could be a similar sized, aluminum
> delivery van, to save some vehicle weight, though we
> don't have one of these at the moment, but we could
> sell off the other vehicles to aquire one.
>
> It seems possible to mount up to 500 watts of solar
> panels on the roof of a van, to help charge on the
> go,
> and just make the long drive on sunny days!
>
> Does any of this sound doable, say if money is no
> object, or am i just dreaming?
>
> I dream of a production Toyota Truck hybrid with
> Lion
> Plug in pack that will go 60mi on batteries, and get
> 100mph in hybrid mode...Toyota are you listening?
>
> Thanks for the response Ricky,
>
> Lee Parrish
>
>
>
>
> Curious, which island are you on? The reason I ask
> is
> because I visited
> Kuwai and Maui a few months ago. Maui would lend
> itself to typical
> range issues, but I was thinking as we drove out big
> Dodge Magnum around
> Kuwai how ideally suited an EV would be for this
> island. If you drove the
> long way around the Island that was probably about
> the
> useable range
> for the electric right there. There would be no
> place
> you couldn't
> realistically drive it. Also I think the maximum
> speed
> limit I saw was 50mph,
> something that lends itself to efficient driving.
>
> As far as the Van or the truck, either *could* be
> done, but they're
> going to end up heavy conversions. All the weight is
> going to be your
> enemy and your going to need more batteries (and
> more
> battery weight) to
> give a decent range. Dodge had their TEVan
> conversions
> in the 90's. A
> few still survive and I know they had good range,
> but
> they also used
> expensive flooded NiCad batteries. On the other hand
> though, there'd
> deffinitely be pleny of room for batteries.
>
> lee parrish wrote:
> aloha,
>
> just wondering if anyone has ever converted a chevy
> astro van, or know of any reason why it
> would.wouldn't
> make a good candidate for an EV.
>
> i've got a couple with auto trannies, a 94, and 95.
> i'm thinking about converting one of them.
>
> i've been living off grid here in hawaii for a few
> years, and can install and maintain solar systems,
> but
> am less mechanically inclined, at least when it
> comes
> to engines, etc...i'm more of a nuts and bolts kinda
> guy, so i'm attracted to EV's for their simplicity
> and
> the thought that i could charge it up off our solar
> system. even with my experience with solar electric
> sytems, and general ICE mechanics, i'm new to this
> idea, and still learning the EV "language" and
> options.
>
> i've also got an older dodge ram 50 with a manual
> trans. 4x4 to play with.
>
> any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly
> appreciated. there doesn't seem to be a big EV scene
> here, unless you count all the golf carts at the
> resorts.
>
> mahalo,
>
> lee parrish
>
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--- Begin Message ---
Somebody was asking for EV music recently, here's some
ideas,
NoFx - Electricity
Metallica - It's Electric
Black Sabboth - Electric funeral, EV1
U2 - the electric co.
U2 - Electrical Storm
Various - Electric Ave.
Judas Priest - Electric Eye
Oasis - She's Electric
White Zombie - Electric head 1 and 2
Metallica - Whiplash, EV related when riding in the
White Zombie
Metallica - Battery, EV related? probably not :-)
Mest - Electric baby - could be applied to EV's :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Instead of inserting inductance (extra cost, space, weight,
losses)...can a person just find a controller that operates at a higher
frequency or raise the frequency of the controller you now have?
What frequency would you actually need that would allow the Lynch to
operate without inserting the extra inductance?
Are any controllers programmable which would allow you to match
frequency to motor?
Tim
paul wiley wrote:
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: TiM M wrote:
Can a Curtis 1231C controller be used with a Lynch motor?
If so, where could I find a wiring diagram for it?
Yes, it will work. But you may find that the Lynch has so little inductance
that the controller's current limit doesn't work smoothly. This means the
motor will start with a "lurch" and be noisy at low speeds. This can be fixed
by adding an inductor in series with the motor (a half dozen turns of heavy
wire on a laminated iron core).
Lee, Does this include the Etek motor as well? What about the Alltrax
controllers, should i do this to? Aren't Alltrax and Curtis close in design?
THanks
Paul
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--- Begin Message ---
This sounds very fishy. So the board has voted in private to disband
the existing charter, fire a member while essentially under Marshal
Law, promises to form a committee to create a new charter at an
undisclosed date in the future, and now is acting without any
authority from its membership or an active charter to completely
redesign the classes? The teamsters would be proud.
Tim
On Jan 19, 2006, at 4:47 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: January 19, 2006 3:21:02 PM PST
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: the old NEDRA Charter
NEDRA is an organization that consists of a small group of
volunteers organizing the events and trying to promote electric
drag racing.
It was recently brought to the attention of the board that the
NEDRA charter has not been followed for some years now, and it was
recognized that the charter needed to be updated in order to become
a useful guideline for the organization once again. It has
literally not been followed by ANY of the board officers for a
number of years.
We on the executive board recognized that the charter is old and
outdated, has not been followed by anyone for some time, and needs
to be brought up to speed with the rest of the organization. We
voted to set aside the original charter with a no confidence vote,
voted to form a charter committee to develop new, workable charter
language, and voted bring the new charter language back to the
board and to the membership for review and commentary as soon as
possible. It was also voted that the NEDRA board would continue to
move forward with NEDRA business in the meantime by continuing to
vote on matters of importance for the organization.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Matthew D. Graham wrote:
the car ran a 13.607 at 98.39 mph!
I love it when my EV predictions come true! How awesome is this? I told
Matt in Redmond at our Hi Torque'n burger fest, that with taller drag
radials and the LSD his car would run mid 13's right out of the box.
I've predicted low 13's - high 12's with exercised and heated batteries
at this weekend's Battery Beach Burnout races for Matt...still standing
by this. Get those Exides heated up by repeated runs and fast recharges,
and when they've hit 120 degrees or so, look for the 100 mph barrier to
be blasted through and 12.8 - 13.1 type ETs! I'll take a stab and
predict a 13.2 @ 101 mph will be the run that gets Matt into the 100 mph
club!
It's so exciting watching Matt and his car raising the bar...and yes,
I'm watching my rear view mirror for a sinister black Nissan!
See Ya.....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
As a founding NEDRA member and current active member, I'm very excited
to see the EV drag racing scene expanding. Good luck to everyone at the
first ever 'Battery Beach Burnout'. Be safe, smoke those tires, and
above all else, have fun!!
See Ya......John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
"Rubber ought to be laid electrically" (Dale Glubretch)
"My EV would be zero emissions, if my tires would stop smoking" (Otmar
Ebenhoech)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Folks,
This is the first and last message on this subject I will post to this
list.
Martial Law has ended. Sanity has been restored. The NEDRA charter is
still in effect intact.
The Battery Beach Burnout event will go on as planned. Because NEDRA
missed the 30-day member notification period for the new classes, the
old classes will be in effect.
Further information can be found at www.nedra.com
Any further discussion is encouraged to be held off-list in respect to
those 95+% of EV-List members who are not NEDRA members.
I sincerely apologize on behalf of NEDRA for all the preceding chatter
and any ensuing confusion. We now return you to your regularly
scheduled EV discussion.
Dean Grannes
Acting NEDRA Steward
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
OMD - Electricity
http://www.lyricsfind.com/o/omd/orchestral-manoeuvres-in-the-dark/electricity.php
(hmm I always thought it was "electric food for me" not "electric blue for me")
Kraftwerk - Electric Cafe
Moby - Electricity (should be good but can't remember hearing it)
OK a silly one:
Billy Ocean - Get out of my dreams (get into my car) (think of 200Ah
LiPoly's or a Zilla2K or something :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
How about the Electric Light Orchestra, ELO.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Shawn Rutledge
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 8:48 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: EV music?
OMD - Electricity
http://www.lyricsfind.com/o/omd/orchestral-manoeuvres-in-the-dark/electricit
y.php
(hmm I always thought it was "electric food for me" not "electric blue for
me")
Kraftwerk - Electric Cafe
Moby - Electricity (should be good but can't remember hearing it)
OK a silly one:
Billy Ocean - Get out of my dreams (get into my car) (think of 200Ah
LiPoly's or a Zilla2K or something :-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All;
On the eve of BBB, but had some questins andthoughts on Rabbit tech stuff.
Have the Rabbit torn down, to deal with sheetmetal issues. Driver's seat
falling through the floor, due to Rust-O-Matic feature here in the big East, or
why you don't see ANY Rabbits 'round here, anymore. That's fixed now,
fabricated new Drivers side floor, and new sheet metal rocker panel, for about
2 feet. Oh it's not beautiful, but it gives me a bit more structural integrity,
now, I wont fall through the floor, which could be embarrasing in traffic!
Amazing what ya can do with a buncha brazing rods, too thin to weld with my old
faithful Miller Buzz Box welder. Havent broken down and bought a Mig or Tig
from Harbor Fright, yet.
Back to the story. Was chatting with a few of my local VW Garus. Asked
WHAT clutch assembly, to give me MORE amps. We sorta agreed on a Bigger dia
pressure plate, a Surraco Flywheel, I THINK he said. He will go through his
archives to see what he can find. While on Rabbit stuff I mentioned the Surraco
Master brake cylinder. He actually HAD one, longer than a stock Diseasel Rabbit
one. He sed that it was a 17MM bore, insteasd of a 20mm bore as used in the
vacuum pack Rabbit setup. I would love to get rid of the damn vacuum thingy and
vacuum pump. More room in the engine room, clean things up in there a bit. But
I don't wanna go back, I DID drive it awile without a vacuum pump, Not again!
It is nice to only need ONE foot on the brake pedal! Correct me if I'm wrong.
Wouldn't ya want a smaller bore MS to get more power to the slave cylinders,
maybe a tad more pedal, though?Not a Bigger bore. He had a 22MM I think, too,
but I felt that a smaller bore would give ya more push,!
WITHOUT the Vacuum thing?My 65 Corvair Corsa, 30 years ago, just had HD drums
and NO vacuum brake. It broke fine.Shuda saved it!
Meanwile I figured I'd address the noisy motor, was getting to sound like the
Diseasel it replaced! Tore it down, the ADV 9"er, dumped it on the floor and
connected up 12 volts worth of batteries. Grind Grind, Oh it soulded like hell!
No whisper, swush type thing. Took it ALL apart, wekll as far as I could with
no bearing pullers big enough. Schlepped it down to my local machinest. He
miked up the shaft on the clutch end, as the bearing was sloppy loose on the
SHAFT! Like 8 thou worth! No wonder things clicked and rattled! The comm end
was tight, bearing was warn out, too. He took a cleaning cut on the shaft and
sweated on a spacer sleeve, like heated it up and let it cool, AND tigged it
down, too. Took a few cleenup cuts so the bearing, at 35mm would be a press on
fit. Now if I hadent busted the cooling fan, I'd be ready to reassemble AFTER I
find a place to balance the whole damn thing; armature with clutch and pressure
plate, all assembled. ALL the rotating stuff bolted!
together as it would be in the car, running. SOMETHING is killing my bearings
in 50-60 k miles.A balance issue?? Hell, my Nissan Sentra has 150plus K on it
with an oldfashioned ICE engine., bearings just FINE! Shouldn't I do better
with an electric!?Was thinking of having him cut a lot of cast iron off the
next flywheel, before my balancing act.Those damn VW ''wheels are heavy! I
don't wanna give in and get rid of the clutch, I like effortless shifting.
Finally building battery box covers to FINISH the job I started 6 years ago
to make the car look more finished. THEN, the new T 145's go in, so I can get
an honest 50 mile plus range again.Building in the PFC 20, retiring the
faithful old Variac , rectomfyer setup. 120/240 volt charging capacity. trying
to clean everything up so it has a more finished appearance. Oh not as perfect
as Blue Meany, but so it looks like somebody cared. And I can throw a bicycle
in back with out a short circus<g>! I COULD put the back seat back in, but
probably won't bother as I like the cargo capacity as it is, open in back. With
an 8 volt battery system, I could put the back seat back as that area of the
body wouldn't be cut into forward of the trunk, spare tire well, 9 imn back,
and 6 in front. This is the floor plan if I didn't care as much as the range.
For you folks Out West where Rabbits still can be had, good floor plan, and
a hellova lot lighter, maybe wouldn't need hevier springs?You could have a
decent running conversion?
All this will wait til I get back from BBB, and a weak in FLA.
Seeya there
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For the record, Dean Grannes has never held a NEDRA membership elected
position. He was appointed by me to the board. He does not speak for NEDRA
in any way legally or otherwise. That is all I will say on this issue. Any
NEDRA members wishing further information please contact me off list,
PLEASE!
Roderick Wilde
NEDRA President
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grannes, Dean" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 9:38 PM
Subject: RE: the old NEDRA Charter
Folks,
This is the first and last message on this subject I will post to this
list.
Martial Law has ended. Sanity has been restored. The NEDRA charter is
still in effect intact.
The Battery Beach Burnout event will go on as planned. Because NEDRA
missed the 30-day member notification period for the new classes, the
old classes will be in effect.
Further information can be found at www.nedra.com
Any further discussion is encouraged to be held off-list in respect to
those 95+% of EV-List members who are not NEDRA members.
I sincerely apologize on behalf of NEDRA for all the preceding chatter
and any ensuing confusion. We now return you to your regularly
scheduled EV discussion.
Dean Grannes
Acting NEDRA Steward
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have the Dodge Taperlock bushing catalog and am hopeful someone can save
me some time by letting me know which QD bushing is typically used for the 1
1/8 inch shaft Warp and ADC motors. There are about 11 pages of
taperlocks!
I have to order one and get it and the 4130 steel barstock to a machine shop
for my hub to be made up.
Any advice appreciated from someone who has already made up their own.
Thanks in advance.
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <Burnout
Hey all
I bet all you racers are in freak mode now arn't you, lmao!
I was till about 4 today when I finnly put in the 2k zilla , around the
block , more go peddle and then, the clutch lets go . was just getting it
broked in it to , well I'm still going , but I promissed to work on Paul's
car friday , so mine is dead in the water. .
Steve Clunn
Although I will not be able to attend I have 2 small motors that will be
flying the Hi-Torque colors there, and well I've been crawling out of my
skin all week as the date approaches. God I hope today goes by fast as I
just don't know how much more waiting I can stand! Hope everyone has a
great time. be fast, be safe, and best of luck to all.
Cya all
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
---------------------------------
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--- Begin Message ---
The local bearing shop here has similar looking Taper-Lock bushings that I
see in Gadget's pics of his his Triumph flywheel adaptor
(http://www.reverendgadget.com/triumph2.html). They're $22 for the split
taper bushing type 2517 (p/n for the 1-1/8" shaft is 119110) and $56 for the
bushing adaptor (097016 through 097019) pages PT6-13 and PT6-14 of the Dodge
catalog. I went and looked them over to see how they'd fit if I bored my
flywheel and welded them in. The bore hole OD is 4.125" with a seating lip
of 4.250" The depth of this lip from the smaller side can be 0.450",
0.565", 0.685" or 1.090" depending on where you need to weld it to get your
"magic number". You might have to research a little through the catalog to
find the right bolt on type adaptor pictured on Gadget's BMW flywheel
(http://leftcoastconversions.com/gpage.html), however the split taper
bushing you'll need will most likely be the 2715 with the 1-1/8" bore.
You'll either have to wels or drill lots of holes. I can e-mail anyone this
section of the catalog if you're interested. Maybe have it posted on
EVForge.
Just tonight though I've decided to take the easy way and ordered an adaptor
from Electroauto for the Mitsu :-)
Mike
Anchorage,AK.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Mark Ward
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:40 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
I have the Dodge Taperlock bushing catalog and am hopeful someone can save
me some time by letting me know which QD bushing is typically used for the 1
1/8 inch shaft Warp and ADC motors. There are about 11 pages of
taperlocks!
I have to order one and get it and the 4130 steel barstock to a machine shop
for my hub to be made up.
Any advice appreciated from someone who has already made up their own.
Thanks in advance.
Mark Ward
St. Charles, MO
95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
www.saabrina.blogspot.com
--- End Message ---
