EV Digest 5108
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Paralleling and Serialing Controllers
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Paralleling and Serialing Controllers
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Commence the Electric Jockeying
by Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Rabbit Stuff
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: chevy astro conversion?
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV music?
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Paralleling and Serialing Controllers
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Hi-Torque Motors
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Dragtimes.com 1, 2, and 3
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: EV music?
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: 1231C and Lynch motor
by david woolard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: EV Drag Racing in France: F.I.A. world records
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: EV music?
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Stripped Terminal
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Paralleling and Serialing Controllers
by Evan Tuer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: Stripped Terminal
by "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re:Current Eliminator Dragster News
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
18) RE: Stripped Terminal
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EV music?
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site
by "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Paralleling and Serialing Controllers
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: QD taperlock bushing PN needed
by Reverend Gadget <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Stripped Terminal
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Paralleling and Serialing Controllers
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) My El-Driver project.
by Mike Ellis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---I can hear the chorus of "Bad idea" already! Has anyone actually tried paralleling 2 controllers for more current, or putting 2 controllers in series to handle more voltage? My thoughts are paralleling might work if they had equal current, and big enough capacitors that either controller could take full current. Similarly, it seems if you had big enough capacitors neither controller's transistors would see full voltage. My thoughts were motivated by seeing Curtis sepex controllers. They seem to have lots of nice features, and are pretty cheap. 80 Volts and 600 Amps is a bit wimpy, though! Might they survive being put in series? Would it help to parallel them with some big capacitors? Thanks in advance for the education. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---Don't MOSFETS have a negative thermal resistance curve? In my playing with H-Bridges I found I could take a typical H-Bridge design and simply parallel another set onto the existing ones for more current. One might run slightly hotter than the other but then it starts limiting more. Then both MOSFETS in a pair would stabilize out to a similarly HOT state. However if pushed and one blew the other rapidly followed. Maybe they're not that closely matched. Is it possible to by matched MOSFETS, like you used to buy matched tubes for push-pull amps? Hmmm. Anyone know if IGBT's have similar negative resistance curves? Mike -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Dymaxion Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 10:11 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Paralleling and Serialing Controllers I can hear the chorus of "Bad idea" already! Has anyone actually tried paralleling 2 controllers for more current, or putting 2 controllers in series to handle more voltage? My thoughts are paralleling might work if they had equal current, and big enough capacitors that either controller could take full current. Similarly, it seems if you had big enough capacitors neither controller's transistors would see full voltage. My thoughts were motivated by seeing Curtis sepex controllers. They seem to have lots of nice features, and are pretty cheap. 80 Volts and 600 Amps is a bit wimpy, though! Might they survive being put in series? Would it help to parallel them with some big capacitors? Thanks in advance for the education. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---Now the real fun can commence. What stories to tell now at your BBB. 3 Electric Dragsters top 3 at Dragtimes.<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
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--- Begin Message ---On Jan 19, 2006, at 10:02 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: [snip]Oh it's not beautiful, but it gives me a bit more structural integrity, now, I wont fall through the floor, which could be embarrasing in traffic! Amazing what ya can do with a buncha brazing rods, too thin to weld with my old faithful Miller Buzz Box welder. Havent broken down and bought a Mig or Tig from Harbor Fright, yet.I got a 120v Lincoln flux core wire feed (convertible to MIG) from Harbor Freight. I find that using it with flux core wire has allowed me to weld up rusted out floor pans. It not as pretty as MIG, but the flux seems to be helpful on thin (sometimes as little as .02 inch) metal. Remove slag with care :-)[snip]While on Rabbit stuff I mentioned the Surraco Master brake cylinder. He actually HAD one, longer than a stock Diseasel Rabbit one. He sed that it was a 17MM bore, insteasd of a 20mm bore as used in the vacuum pack Rabbit setup. I would love to get rid of the damn vacuum thingy and vacuum pump. More room in the engine room, clean things up in there a bit. But I don't wanna go back, I DID drive it awile without a vacuum pump, Not again! It is nice to only need ONE foot on the brake pedal! Correct me if I'm wrong. Wouldn't ya want a smaller bore MS to get more power to the slave cylinders, maybe a tad more pedal, though?Not a Bigger bore. He had a 22MM I think, too, but I felt that a smaller bore would give ya more push,!Yes, a 17mm bore vs. a 20mm bore will give you the same pressure at the wheels with 73% of the foot force. Actually even better than that - just unplugging the vacuum from the brake booster still leaves you with a spring inside to compress while applying the brakes.[snip rest of post] - sorry can't help! Paul "neon" G.
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--- Begin Message ---You can go far on a flat road at low speed inexpensively on lead acid batteries, what is the required speed ? cordialement, Philippe Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php ----- Original Message ----- From: "lee parrish" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:27 AM Subject: Re: chevy astro conversion? > I live on the island of Hawaii, locally known as the > Big Island, and it is much bigger than the other > islands that make up the chain. A round trip here > would be a about 250 miles. However, I very rarely > make this trip (2-3) times a year. > > The range i am aiming for is about 70 miles (our once > a week town trip is about 63-65miles...30 mi. each way > plus driving around town. I figure to make this a > possibilty I would have to go with more expensive > batteries, AGM, or NiMH, or Lion, yes? This EV would > also have to be able to haul people and supplies, as > that is what we use it for, it's not a commute to work > run, it's a stock up on what we need run. So that is > why we I'm looking at a truck or van conversion. > Other than this run, we usually wouldn't drive more > than 20 mi roundtrip, and mostly less than 10 mi. > > On the Astro van there would be plenty of room for > batteries under the rear floor, on either side of the > driveshaft (with the gas tank and exhaust system > removed of course). It has good clearance because it > is really a truck chassis. > > Another option could be a similar sized, aluminum > delivery van, to save some vehicle weight, though we > don't have one of these at the moment, but we could > sell off the other vehicles to aquire one. > > It seems possible to mount up to 500 watts of solar > panels on the roof of a van, to help charge on the go, > and just make the long drive on sunny days! > > Does any of this sound doable, say if money is no > object, or am i just dreaming? > > I dream of a production Toyota Truck hybrid with Lion > Plug in pack that will go 60mi on batteries, and get > 100mph in hybrid mode...Toyota are you listening? > > Thanks for the response Ricky, > > Lee Parrish > > > > > Curious, which island are you on? The reason I ask is > because I visited > Kuwai and Maui a few months ago. Maui would lend > itself to typical > range issues, but I was thinking as we drove out big > Dodge Magnum around > Kuwai how ideally suited an EV would be for this > island. If you drove the > long way around the Island that was probably about the > useable range > for the electric right there. There would be no place > you couldn't > realistically drive it. Also I think the maximum speed > limit I saw was 50mph, > something that lends itself to efficient driving. > > As far as the Van or the truck, either *could* be > done, but they're > going to end up heavy conversions. All the weight is > going to be your > enemy and your going to need more batteries (and more > battery weight) to > give a decent range. Dodge had their TEVan conversions > in the 90's. A > few still survive and I know they had good range, but > they also used > expensive flooded NiCad batteries. On the other hand > though, there'd > deffinitely be pleny of room for batteries. > > lee parrish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > aloha, > > just wondering if anyone has ever converted a chevy > astro van, or know of any reason why it would.wouldn't > make a good candidate for an EV. > > i've got a couple with auto trannies, a 94, and 95. > i'm thinking about converting one of them. > > i've been living off grid here in hawaii for a few > years, and can install and maintain solar systems, but > am less mechanically inclined, at least when it comes > to engines, etc...i'm more of a nuts and bolts kinda > guy, so i'm attracted to EV's for their simplicity and > the thought that i could charge it up off our solar > system. even with my experience with solar electric > sytems, and general ICE mechanics, i'm new to this > idea, and still learning the EV "language" and > options. > > i've also got an older dodge ram 50 with a manual > trans. 4x4 to play with. > > any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly > appreciated. there doesn't seem to be a big EV scene > here, unless you count all the golf carts at the > resorts. > > mahalo, > > lee parrish > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com >
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--- Begin Message ---Is this hit accepted ? ;^) http://www.atomfilms.com/contentPlay/shockwave.jsp?id=cant_afford_gas&preplay cordialement, Philippe Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shawn Rutledge" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 6:48 AM Subject: Re: EV music? > OMD - Electricity > http://www.lyricsfind.com/o/omd/orchestral-manoeuvres-in-the-dark/electricity.php > (hmm I always thought it was "electric food for me" not "electric blue for me") > > Kraftwerk - Electric Cafe > Moby - Electricity (should be good but can't remember hearing it) > OK a silly one: > Billy Ocean - Get out of my dreams (get into my car) (think of 200Ah > LiPoly's or a Zilla2K or something :-) >
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--- Begin Message ---At 11:11 PM 19/01/06 -0800, David Dymaxion wrote:I can hear the chorus of "Bad idea" already! Has anyone actually tried paralleling 2 controllers for more current, or putting 2 controllers in series to handle more voltage?Hmm, how loud can you say "BANG"?In parallel, well, maybe, but getting them to share may be harder than getting my 6yo daughter to share with her 4yo little sister.In series, bang, splat, unless they can turn on and off (at their 15/20kHz switching frequency) in synch (hard to do when one is wanting to cut back into current limit and the other is not quite ready yet).Enough education, or do you want more?James
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--- Begin Message ---Why not using li-ion batteries with etek motor(for it's weight/power/efficiency ratio. On a pocket bike weight and volume are critical, seems best solution to both problems. cordialement, Philippe Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php ----- Original Message ----- From: "paul wiley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:40 AM Subject: Re: Hi-Torque Motors > Shawn, > With the TINY TIM motor, what was your run time for a pocket bike race? > I race with a club here, and since i fried the ICE motor i thought about a conversion, > but weight and distance was what is holding me back. > Suggestions? > Thanks > > Paul > > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! Photos > Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever. >
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--- Begin Message ---> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >>http://www.dragtimes.com/top50.php >>Only 45 votes away- still with the older, slower time. >>Congrats to Matt! >>-Jay I think that did it... 1) 2329 Datsun 1200 12.151 106.250 2) 1588 Nissan 240SX 14.274 95.060 3) 1497 Mazda RX-7 11.039 111.800 4) 1496 Subaru SVX 14.534 95.330 5) 1049 El Camino 12.160 108.740 L8r Ryan ps. If they are going to publish this... How about choosing some "Electric Specs" to replace all of the "none" relating to the IC characteristics? A nice list that could be use other places. Think would they might go for that, example: Engine: none System Voltage: 348 Volts Engine: Siamese 8 Dual Armature Electric Motor Computer: Zilla 2000 amp, 348V Motor Controller > Engine and Computer aren't quite right, maybe Motor and Controller? Main Contactor: 3000 amp Kilovac Bubba Batteries: Hawker Aerobatteries' 12V, 26ahr AGM Charger: Manzanita Micro PFC 75, Rudman Regulators DC/DC Converter: Todd 30A Accessory battery: 16 ahr 'Hawker Genesis' 12V AGM Bypass/Switching: Controller? Batteries? Motors? Instrumentation: Ammeter, voltmeter, E-meter Range: > 1/4 mile Top Speed: none Seating Capacity: 2 scared adults Curb Weight: ~2300 Transmission: Direct drive Clutch/Torq Conv: none Flywheel: none Shifter: none Gears: 4:57 w/Detroit Locker Wheels: Eagle Alloys Brake Rotors/Pads: Line lock Tires: BF Goodrich DOT Drag Radials Track: Portland International Raceway, OR, USA Horsepower: 200+ horsepower Torque: 772 ft. lbs. Additional Features: It would be easier to give them too many and have "none"s of our own than it would be to miss something that should be there. Trim your post: Engine : System Voltage : Motor : Controller : Computer : Main Contactor Batteries : Charger : DC/DC Converter : Accessory battery : Top Speed Bypass/Switching : Instrumentation : Range : Seating Capacity : Weight Horsepower : Torque : Transmission Clutch/Torq Conv : Flywheel : Shifter Gears : Wheels : Brake Rotors/Pads : Tires : Track : Additional Features
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--- Begin Message ---I remember 'Five Man Electrical Band". Joe Smalley Rural Kitsap County WA Fiesta 48 volts NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike & Paula Willmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 9:52 PM Subject: RE: EV music? > How about the Electric Light Orchestra, ELO. > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Shawn Rutledge > Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 8:48 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: EV music? > > > OMD - Electricity > http://www.lyricsfind.com/o/omd/orchestral-manoeuvres-in-the-dark/electricit > y.php > (hmm I always thought it was "electric food for me" not "electric blue for > me") > > Kraftwerk - Electric Cafe > Moby - Electricity (should be good but can't remember hearing it) > OK a silly one: > Billy Ocean - Get out of my dreams (get into my car) (think of 200Ah > LiPoly's or a Zilla2K or something :-) >
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--- Begin Message ---have a look at the 4QD-300-48 made by 4QD at: http://www.4qd.co.uk/prod/4qd.html . It seems just right for the Lynch motor. 300A 48V nominal, 320A 68V max. I haven't used one yet but plan to in an electric motorbike project later this year. DaveW ___________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---F.I.A. world records http://www.fia.com/sport/Regulations/recordregs.html cordialement, Philippe Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 6:47 PM > Subject: EV Drag Racing in France > > > > Philippe, why don't you start promoting EV drag racing in France. Log on > to > > this site http://promotop.org/francedrag/modules/news/ and go to forums > and > > tell these people there are electric cars drag racing in the US. Tell them > > about NEDRA www.nedra.com. Give them links to see the White Zombie" doing > a > > wheelstand on launch. This should arouse some interest. Over a year ago > > NEDRA was contacted by the US representative for F.I.A. Fédération > > Internationale de l'Automobile drag racing asking if we would be willing > to > > send a couple of our top cars to Europe to do exhibition runs. Nothing > ever > > came of it as it was too late that year to get it organized. Hey Philippe, > > could you do me a favor and try to find where F.I.A. world records are > > listed online. I can not find it on their site. Are there other French > > people on this list or are you the only one? > > > > Roderick Wilde > > President, NEDRA > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[email protected]> > > Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 4:25 AM > > Subject: Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site - voting > > > > > > You are happy EV men, i WANT EV drag racing in france ! > > Stop waiting , let's make it happen ! > > > > cordialement, > > Philippe > > > > Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? > > quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? > > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr > > Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques > > http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > > Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9/217 - Release Date: 12/30/2005 > > >
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--- Begin Message ---On 1/20/06, Shawn Rutledge <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > OMD - Electricity > Kraftwerk - Electric Cafe > Moby - Electricity (should be good but can't remember hearing it) Captain Beefheart - Electricity Pan Sonic - Voima - Sähkötin.
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--- Begin Message ---No, the lug lays flat under large nut they put around the terminal. Contact wise it is actually better solution than only internal M8 thread since you can tighten this nut with bigger torque (It's about M20 thread). Just make sure your lug is no thicker than 1.5mm or so.If you have any bad sells, undo its nuts for practice and you will see clearly what can be done.Victor Bill Dennis wrote:Would this give enough contact area? Is seems like all current would be flowing through the outer post's threads. Bill Dennis
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--- Begin Message ---On 1/20/06, David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I can hear the chorus of "Bad idea" already! Has anyone actually > tried paralleling 2 controllers for more current, or putting 2 > controllers in series to handle more voltage? Paralleling can be done, after all, it's only duplicating what is already done in the controller: many mosfets, diodes and capacitors in parallel. See the "GrizBurger" - two Auburn Grizzlies synchronised together. I think people even tried this with a pair of Curtis controllers, before larger racing controllers came along. In series? I wouldn't even think about trying :)
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--- Begin Message --- To use a helicoil you first drill and tap with the appropriate STI (Screw Thread Insert) tap. Some times with a stripped thread you can skip the drill but it is best to make sure the hole is round, smooth, and the right size for the tap. After the STI tap you can run the insert in.________________ Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wis. At 04:12 PM 1/19/2006, you wrote:Neon, you were right (gee, how did I somehow know I'd end up saying that?). I tried the all-thread idea, but it just ended up stripping the rest of the threads. I guess I'll have to read up on how the helicoil works. Will it fit snugly in the M8 stripped hole already, or will I need to ream out the hole to say, M10, retap and insert? Thanks. Bill Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neon John Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:04 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Stripped Terminal On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:48:20 -0700, "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >I took a closer look at the terminal threads, and it appears that the >outermost threads are stripped, and that the bottommost threads are ok. If >I put the bolt in by itself, it seems to eventually engage the bottommost >threads and get tight. But once I put the lug between the bolt and >terminal, I think that the bolt doesn't get long enough to reach the bottom >threads. Tomorrow I'll try buying a slightly longer bolt. They appear to >be M8 x 1.25 -- can anyone else with TS cells confirm that dimension? It'll just strip again. Go ahead and get some M8 Helicoils from your friendly local auto parts store and fix it permanently. Get some red loctite while you're there and coat the helicoil on the outside before you insert it. This will lock the coil in place. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson__________Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
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--- Begin Message ---We were suppose to race 2 days this weekend for $5000. each day however I have a friend we have to bury on sat. Sunday at Speedworld in Witman AZ at 9am with only 1 practice round we will try to go against the best bracket racers on the west coast.This is the 1st million dollar series race of the year.Wining here will enter me in the million dollar bracket race in Georgia in October. Dennis Berube
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--- Begin Message ---That's what I mean Victor. Incoming current flows from lug to the big nut on outside of the terminal post. But then to get from the big nut to inside the battery, doesn't the current have to flow through the big nut's threads through the terminal post's threads? Whereas when you use the M8 hole, there's a large contact area which is the top of the terminal post itself. Bill Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 2:48 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Stripped Terminal No, the lug lays flat under large nut they put around the terminal. Contact wise it is actually better solution than only internal M8 thread since you can tighten this nut with bigger torque (It's about M20 thread). Just make sure your lug is no thicker than 1.5mm or so. If you have any bad sells, undo its nuts for practice and you will see clearly what can be done. Victor Bill Dennis wrote: > Would this give enough contact area? Is seems like all current would be > flowing through the outer post's threads. > > Bill Dennis
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--- Begin Message ---Hello to Rod and All, Rod Hower wrote:Let's not leave out a killer album with the best combo of the alphabet......'AC/DC - High Voltage'Somebody was asking for EV music recently, here's some ideas, NoFx - Electricity Metallica - It's Electric Black Sabboth - Electric funeral, EV1 U2 - the electric co. U2 - Electrical Storm Various - Electric Ave. Judas Priest - Electric Eye Oasis - She's Electric White Zombie - Electric head 1 and 2 Metallica - Whiplash, EV related when riding in the White Zombie Metallica - Battery, EV related? probably not :-) Mest - Electric baby - could be applied to EV's :-)See Ya.....John Wayland
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--- Begin Message ---Just checked and the Electrics have made it! Top 3 spots. Dennis Elsberry, MO -----Original Message----- From: Bob Rice [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 10:54 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 11:13 AM Subject: Zombie at DragTimes Web Site > Hello to All, > > I've submitted the 1/4 mile specs for White Zombie to the following site: > > http://www.dragtimes.com/ > > At this opening page, under the section 'Recent Drag Racing 1/4 Mile > Times', you'll see White Zombie boldly listed as an electric car..it's a > clickable link. Upon clicking the link, you'll see the spec page for > White Zombie. It's down-right funny when you peruse the stats page, as > there are mostly 'none' lists for all the usual stuff they expect you to > have in a drag car....Pistons (none).... Sparkplugs (none)....Camshaft > (none)....Transmission (none)....you get the idea, great fun! > Hi John; I voted for ya! Cool sight, thumbed through it, lottsa fun, Rolls Royces' times as well as Hummers, Iron I didn't think ASYBODY raced. I coulda beat the Hummer with my Rabbit IF I had a stoughter, less slippery clutch, and put the T Wrecks controller in<g>!Be faster than the Acela [EMAIL PROTECTED] in one min. The pix you have is just fine, ya didn't use my flashover one from Woodburn! I'll chek out Matt's car, too. Seeya Bob > I goofed and sent a very low rez thumbnail off a video clip, as the > feature photo, and it looks tacky. If any list members have a good photo > of WZ they'd like to see there instead, send it to me, and I'll pick my > favorite of what i receive and resend it to the site. You can vote for > the car for it to be a featured car at the opening page, so let's stack > the deck to get an electric car put up as the featured car...that should > get the gasser dude's attention! Matt's terrific twin motor 240SX is > also at this site, so votes for his car would be great, too. > > See Ya.....John Wayland >
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--- Begin Message ---Hello Mark, The first thing you do is to make reference measurements on the bolt circle pattern on the devices that you are going to bolt to the motor adapter. My bolt circle is at 3.5 inch diameter for my GE motor. The smallest Taper-Lock Adapters that fits over the Taper-Lock Bushings is at 3.25 inch diameter, so the Adapter. The next larger one has a inside diameter of 2.75 inch and a outside diameter of 3.5 inch. The next one has a inside diameter of 4.125 inch. So a flywheel flange with a 3.5 inch bolt pattern will not work. A Taper Lock adapter will have to be machine to with enough inner and outer diameter so it can be tapped for the bolt holes of the device you want to bolt to it. This now requires the machinist to make a Adapter, that has a taper bore to fit the taper lock busing, key it, install three tapped bolts for installing the bushing and three tapped reversed tapped bolts for removing the bushing, cut splits and than the metal has to be heat treated to a spring like specifications, so it will not crack at the split joints. According to Dodge, it is best not to have the adapter collars too thin to the inner and outer walls of the adapters for a certain torque value, or they will crack. I found it was cheaper for me to purchase one from Electro Automotive. They normally have them in stock. They are over 2 inches deep and six small cap screws to install the adapter on. The taper lock adapter has a large enough face on it with a insert lip for installing on to flywheel or flange shaft that goes to a transmission or driveline. If you are using a transmission, than a transmission pilot bushing is install into the bushing. Roland ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Ward<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 9:40 PM Subject: QD taperlock bushing PN needed I have the Dodge Taperlock bushing catalog and am hopeful someone can save me some time by letting me know which QD bushing is typically used for the 1 1/8 inch shaft Warp and ADC motors. There are about 11 pages of taperlocks! I have to order one and get it and the 4130 steel barstock to a machine shop for my hub to be made up. Any advice appreciated from someone who has already made up their own. Thanks in advance. Mark Ward St. Charles, MO 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina" www.saabrina.blogspot.com<http://www.saabrina.blogspot.com/>
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--- Begin Message ---> I can hear the chorus of "Bad idea" already! Has anyone actually > tried paralleling 2 controllers for more current, or putting 2 > controllers in series to handle more voltage? While it's possible to parallel two controllers, it's not as easy as simply hooking the outputs together. The controllers need to be sychronized so that the FETs turn on and off together. Other wise one might be off while the other is on, and then as soon as the one that's on switches off, the other could switch on. Net result would be that instead of getting 1/2 throttle like you want, you get full throttle. Of course, just to make things interesting, this effect will vary as the slightly different frequencies of the controller come in and out of phase. So you go from exactly the throttle position you want, to twice the speed, and then back. In order to synchonize the controllers you normally need to have the brains of one controller drive the power sections of both controllers. This is easy if the controllers are designed for it. However, if they aren't designed for it, this could be almost as complicated as building a controller from scratch and could easily result in a couple blown controllers. Running them in series isn't going to work. If they aren't synchonized then as soon as one is on and the other is off, the one that's off will see full pack voltage and the FETs will blow. Even if you could figure out how to synchronize two controllers at different voltage potentials, there is no guarantee that the voltage will divide evenly between them so you'll probably end up letting the smoke out of the FETs. I'm not sure how you were thinking about using the capacitor, but it won't help anyway and might just make things worse. > My thoughts are paralleling might work if they had equal current, and > big enough capacitors that either controller could take full current. > > Similarly, it seems if you had big enough capacitors neither > controller's transistors would see full voltage. > > My thoughts were motivated by seeing Curtis sepex controllers. They > seem to have lots of nice features, and are pretty cheap. 80 Volts > and 600 Amps is a bit wimpy, though! Might they survive being put in > series? Would it help to parallel them with some big capacitors? > > Thanks in advance for the education. > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > > -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long legalistic signature is void.
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--- Begin Message ---For the record, The Triumph had a steel flywheel AND I got lucky on the welding. I tried to do another That had a cast flywheel and it warped and cracked. I now do the bolted hub and it's a piece of cake to make and install. I make them with a taper-lock style bushing which is different from a QD style bushing. I prefer the Taperlock style because it fits completely inside the hub where the QD style has a flange that sticks out of the hub. Gadget > > Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 21:56:09 -0900 > From: Mike & Paula Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: RE: QD taperlock bushing PN needed > To: [email protected] > > The local bearing shop here has similar looking > Taper-Lock bushings that I > see in Gadget's pics of his his Triumph flywheel > adaptor > (http://www.reverendgadget.com/triumph2.html). > They're $22 for the split > taper bushing type 2517 (p/n for the 1-1/8" shaft is > 119110) and $56 for the > bushing adaptor (097016 through 097019) pages PT6-13 > and PT6-14 of the Dodge > catalog. I went and looked them over to see how > they'd fit if I bored my > flywheel and welded them in. The bore hole OD is > 4.125" with a seating lip > of 4.250" The depth of this lip from the smaller > side can be 0.450", > 0.565", 0.685" or 1.090" depending on where you need > to weld it to get your > "magic number". You might have to research a little > through the catalog to > find the right bolt on type adaptor pictured on > Gadget's BMW flywheel > (http://leftcoastconversions.com/gpage.html), > however the split taper > bushing you'll need will most likely be the 2715 > with the 1-1/8" bore. > You'll either have to wels or drill lots of holes. > I can e-mail anyone this > section of the catalog if you're interested. Maybe > have it posted on > EVForge. > > Just tonight though I've decided to take the easy > way and ordered an adaptor > from Electroauto for the Mitsu :-) > > Mike > Anchorage,AK. > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Behalf Of Mark Ward > Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 7:40 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: QD taperlock bushing PN needed > > > I have the Dodge Taperlock bushing catalog and am > hopeful someone can save > me some time by letting me know which QD bushing is > typically used for the 1 > 1/8 inch shaft Warp and ADC motors. There are about > 11 pages of > taperlocks! > > I have to order one and get it and the 4130 steel > barstock to a machine shop > for my hub to be made up. > > Any advice appreciated from someone who has already > made up their own. > > Thanks in advance. > > Mark Ward > St. Charles, MO > 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina" > www.saabrina.blogspot.com > visit my websites at www.reverendgadget.com, gadgetsworld.org, leftcoastconversions.com
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--- Begin Message ---On Thu, 19 Jan 2006 15:12:19 -0700, "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Neon, you were right (gee, how did I somehow know I'd end up saying that?). >I tried the all-thread idea, but it just ended up stripping the rest of the >threads. > >I guess I'll have to read up on how the helicoil works. Will it fit snugly >in the M8 stripped hole already, or will I need to ream out the hole to say, >M10, retap and insert? The Helicoil kit contains a properly sized drill, a tap and an insertion tool. You simply drill out the hole, thread it to receive the helicoil, put the helicoil on the insertion tool and screw it into the new threads. Then break off the driving tang with some needlenose pliers. The coil is made of a fairly hard stainless and bites into the base metal. The Loctite is insurance against it loosening. The kits are cheap - in the $5-10 range. The Helicoil patent has expired and there are now knock-offs on the market. I've tried them but I don't like them as much as the original. The original insertion tool seems to work better. It's become habit to insert helicoils into soft metal threads even before they strip, particularly if I'm going to be removing the fastener very often. Saves the hassles of doing it late at an inopportune time. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.-Ralph Waldo Emerson
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--- Begin Message ---Thanks to Mike & Paula Willmon, James Massey, Evan Tuer, and Peter VanDerWal for the good responses. --- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hmm, how loud can you say "BANG"? > ... In series, bang, splat, ... > Enough education, or do you want more? Well, actually, I would like to actually hook things up and see what happens, maybe even enjoy a smoke and light show, but the EVDL is a much cheaper way to learn. :) The cascade failure mode is a good point. Something I would like to visit in more detail is the capacitor thing. I see how if you have two switches in series, and have one open and one closed, just one of the switches sees all the voltage. If the switch isn't rated for all that voltage, bang or smoke or something bad. What if each switch has a large capacitor across it? It seems the capacitor would work hard to keep the voltage the same, so the switch would not suddenly see full voltage. If you are switching fast enough, and your capacitor time constant is slow enough, might you then get away with two switches (i.e. controllers) in series? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---With all my money going into school these days and it being -10C in my garage I haven't been able to work on my Fiero much. This is actually a good thing, as it has forced me to sit down and plan. I've really been inspired by John (and Tim) and his White Zombie. His is a car that works: it can be driven on the streets and really changes people's impressions of EVs. So I decided to pretty much completely rip off his powertrain. I also had been inspired by the GM skateboard concept, and the handling of the Tango and decided to see if I could design something along those lines. I've been using autocad inventor to design things and have posted some screen shots of the process at my website: www.mikeellis.org . I would love to have the list's input. I'm sure there are many, many things I've done completely wrong. Thanks, -Mike Ellis
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