EV Digest 5666
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Dead Digital Dashboard
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you want)
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: EVLN(GM didn't see it but disputes the film)
by "Mike Ellis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: More on the NEDRA Late Night Nationals
by "Myles Twete" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Another Ebay scam? - be warned
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Dead Digital Dashboard
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) DC-DC sugestions
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Dead Digital Dashboard
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Creusen, mfgr of 9.2Kw 120v DC brushless motors etc
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: AC output to rectifier
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Dead Digital Dashboard
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Interesting article on the EV1 and customer support...
by bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Another Ebay scam? - be warned
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) GEM Electric Ice Cream Truck!
by "J Mac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Truck conversions w/ batteries UNDER the stock bed
by "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) E-meter Companion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) RE: E-meter Companion
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: E-meter Companion
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you want)
by "Michael Perry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) S10 Direct Drive (Siamese)
by "Mueller, Craig M" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: E-meter Companion
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Interesting article on the EV1 and customer support...
by John Norton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Just wanted to add, C1 better be film or other high quality
(low leakage) capacitor, especially if R1 and R2 are high resistance.
Normally ordinary ceramic caps are OK, but some change leakage
with temp drastically. Don't attempt to use electrolytic
(tantalum or such) caps here - even with correct polarity they will
unacceptably leak in this circuit.
Victor
Lee Hart wrote:
...
______
+v___/\/\_______________________|+ |
R1 | | | | |
_|_ _|_ _|_ | | digital multimeter (see
D1 _\_/_ D2/_\ C1 ___ |input | Intersil 7106 for circuit)
| | | | |
-v___/\/\__|_______|_______|____|- |
R2 |______|
R1+R2 totals up to whatever resistance is needed for the desired scale
factor. Splitting it in half doubles the peak voltage rating of the
resistors, and prevents noise from riding in on either + or - wires.
D1 and D2 are ordinary signal diodes (1N4148 etc.) for the +/-200
millivolt scale. For higher voltage scales (like 2v, 20v, or 200v), use
back-to-back zener diodes in series in place of D1 and D2 to clamp
excessive voltages.
C1 is to suppress ordinary noise that's less than the diode's breakdown
voltage. These meters only do a few conversion per second, so C1 can be
0.1uF or so.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Costal Highway has a bus lane both on the north and south stretches
of the highway. It would be nice if the NEVs could also use that
lane. Then you could drive your NEV to your favorite beach
restaurants and stores. I guess they would nick that idea since the
posted speed limit is like 45 mph.
Chip Gribben
Electric Vehicle Association of Washington DC
http://www.evadc.org
On Jul 19, 2006, at 4:51 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: July 19, 2006 1:38:04 PM EDT
To: evlist <[email protected]>
Subject: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you want)
EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you want)
[The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
--- {EVangel}
http://www.mdcoastdispatch.com/electriccars071406.html
Electric Cars Proposed For Use In Ocean City
Jacob Cook Staff Writer 07/13/2006
OCEAN CITY – With bicycles, scooters, surreys, banana bikes,
mopeds and Segways offering alternative transportation at the
beach, will street legal electric vehicles, similar to a golf
cart in size, be the latest fad or the wave of the future?
During the Ocean City Mayor and Council meeting on Tuesday
afternoon, CleanCities.com President and Founder Luis D.
MacDonald unveiled a vehicle that has taken beach communities
around the country by storm recently. MacDonald’s company is
spreading the word about GEMs – Global Electric Motorcars – made
by Daimler Chrysler and he wants the resort area to jump
onboard.
We are the first GEM dealership in the State of Maryland,” said
MacDonald. “The vehicle has really been embraced by many
communities.”
Several town officials and employees were originally introduced
to the emission-free, all-electric vehicle during a Police
Commission meeting. When MacDonald told resort officials he
intended to open a business in conjunction with local communities
to shuttle people from their properties to the beach, employees
from several city departments conducted a further review of the
product.
In Maryland, GEMs are legal on streets with a posted speed limit
of 30 mph or less. But, town officials have the right to
eliminate any problematic areas, regardless of posted speed
limit. State law also allows the electric minicab to cross at
intersections where the posted speed limit does not exceed 45
mph, which includes Coastal Highway. The vehicles are equipped
with more safety features than a typical golf cart, though they
are similar in size, with seatbelts, horns and lights.
Ocean City Superintendent of Public Works Maintenance Bruce Gibbs
said two supervisors rode around in the vehicle for a week and he
did not appear overly thrilled about the ride.
We did use this for a week,” he said. “The turning radius is
really bad.”
From an operational standpoint, the GEM was not practical for
many of the duties his department performs around town, Gibbs
said. The electric car would be an asset during special events
and other functions, but it did not keep up with traffic on the
road and turning was difficult, according to Gibbs.
Another review came from Ocean City Police Department Acting
Lieutenant Brian Cardamone, who reported no concerns over the
vehicle because operating one is already legal under state law,
but making sure an operator followed the proper rules and
regulations would be enforced, he said.
We think that it’s a good idea, it’s legal in Maryland and we
don’t have a problem with it,” Cardamone said. “They cannot be
used on highways with a posted speed limit above 30 mph.”
Throughout his research, however, Cardamone learned the vehicles
could be dangerous, saying, “There are accident situations and
there are fatalities with these.”
Council President Jim Hall, who expressed an interest in allowing
property owners in resort communities, such as Little Salisbury
and Montego Bay, to use golf carts and other modes of
transportation for minimal everyday tasks, was enthusiast about
the GEMs potential.
It seems to me, listening to the police department, we don’t have
to do anything,” said Hall. “This is great. I love it. We look
forward to you coming down here and opening a franchise. I think
it’s great and I hope people expand into this.”
Montego Bay Civic Association President James Walker said his
community would not be opposed to allowing the electric cars
because they are already legal under state law. Having a license
plate and proper safety equipment makes the potential widespread
use of the GEM more desirable than a scooter or golf cart, Walker
said.
We wouldn’t have any problem because they’re street legal,” he
said.
However, Councilman Lloyd Martin, representing Caine Woods, said
though he did not foresee a problem, property owners in that area
had expressed some concerns.
I talked to some people in Caine Woods and they had some mixed
feelings about it,” said Martin.
Whether the vehicle will get a standing ovation or thumbs down
from people in the area is yet to be determined. The electric car
reaches speeds around 25 mph, travels about 35 miles on a full
charge and costs upwards of $10,000 for many two- and
four-passenger models.
They are economically safe with zero emission. You can order
these vehicles in just about any color that you want,” MacDonald
said.
All material copyright 2006 The Maryland Coast Dispatch, Berlin,
MD. Questions, comments, contact us at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is done deliberately, isn't it? It's a PR trick so that if
someone asks you to refute something specifically (something that you
can't because it is true) you can beg off answering because you
"haven't seen the film (read the book, etc) and can't answer to
specific issues that the filmaker (auther, etc) may or may not have
reaised."
-Mike
On 7/19/06, bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
EVLN(GM didn't see it but disputes the film)
[The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
--- {EVangel}
http://www.cinematical.com/2006/07/12/gm-disputes-electric-car-documentary/
GM Disputes Electric Car Documentary
Posted Jul 12th 2006 2:00PM by Christopher Campbell
Filed under: Documentary, Sony Classics, Michael Moore
GM's answer to the film is in the form of a posting by spokesman
Dave Barthmuss on the company's FastLane blog
[ http://www.gm.com/company/onlygm/fastlane_Blog.html#EV1 ]. I
won't go into his statements because this isn't the place for
that discussion, but I would like to point out that Barthmuss has
not seen the film, and that should be an immediate mark against
him. Not only does slamming a film he hasn't seen make him
obviously unfit to do so, it puts a dent on the credibility of
GM's whole argument. I didn't even enjoy the film, but I would
certainly watch it again if I was going to intelligently discuss
its contents. I'm sure GM's stance on the issue won't change
after viewing Who Killed the Electric Car? but wouldn't it help
their side to have Barthmuss spend 92 minutes at the movies? Or
at least have him lie about seeing it?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Roy-
I plan to bring the 1921 Milburn.
I'll offer a challenge race to anyone else bringing a pre-1925 electric car.
Then again, would NEDRA rules allow the Milburn on the track?
No seatbelts.
No steering wheel.
Not much of a panic switch.
Nevertheless, it's street legal...hmmmm...
Incidentally, this Milburn tangentially is connected to racing history in at
least a couple ways.
It was owned from the '30s thru '50 by Lee Oldfield who raced in the early
days of racing and supposedly at Indy. Then many years after coming to
California in 1950, the Milburn was picked up in 1997 or so by Eric Luebben.
Eric is the one who piloted the late Ed Rannberg's electric "Lightning Rod"
to 215mph at Bonneville in 1998, setting the land speed record for an
electric vehicle. So I guess indirectly, the Milburn needs to be either
owned by a racer or at least go the races...I don't think I'm much of a
racer.
-Myles Twete, Portland, Or.
> I would appreciate it if folks bringing a vehicle to compete
> with would let
> me know they are planning to attend.
>
> roylemeur _at_ hotmail _dot_ com
> 360 556 2105
>
> Cya at the races!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This sucker bought a scheme "how to make money with an Ebook"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300008413510
and is now offering his conversion experience for sale....
Shown are a photo of a contactor controller on a wooden board
against the firewall, judge the wiring quality to get an idea
about the quality of the book <ahem>
I have no experience with motor-to-gearbox mounting, but
I was surprised to see wood shims to center the motor in
the adapter....
The brackets look undersized to help anything for
motor mounting, but again - I am not a professional:
http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQitemZ130008162805QQcmdZViewItem
Also a picture of the ICE sitting next to his Suzuki(?)
Note:
Just to get attention, he listed the book 5 times in a row
for $19.50
If you are confident that you can get your money back from Ebay
then you may try to get one and see if this is indeed what I
think it is, then share your knowledge >for free< like all of
us do on this list ;-}
Keep it charged!
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
C1 better be film or other high quality (low leakage) capacitor,
especially if R1 and R2 are high resistance... ceramic caps are OK
Don't attempt to use electrolytic (tantalum or such) caps here
Good points!
The Intersil data sheet for the 7106 suggests R1+R2 = 1 meg and C1 =
0.01uF as a minimum for a 200mv or 2v full scale. I'd use a 0.1uF film
capacitor. For higher voltages, they add a resistor R3 across C1 to form
a voltage divider with R1+R2.
______
+v___/\/\_______________________|+ |
R1 | | | | |
_|_ _|_ _|_ | | digital multimeter (see
D1 _\_/_ D2/_\ C1 ___ |input | Intersil 7106 for circuit)
| | | | |
-v___/\/\__|_______|_______|____|- |
R2 |______|
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi all, I been having a streak of bad luck lately. My ICE just
committed suicide and then one day later my EV's DC-DC fries.
I would like to hear some suggestions on what to replace the dc-dc with.
Has anyone used the IOTA DLS-220-55 with a 240v system yet?
I have the MR2 power steering system so the 12V load can be a little
high.
Thanks for any input..
John Grigg
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/723
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
To circumvent any temp-dependent ultra-high resistance leakage,
which can cause severe problems in reading too low values (!)
you could size the resistors to carry a moderate current,
for example 0.1 milliAmp and add a resistor Rp parallel to C1.
Since tihs path is many times lower in resistance than any leakage
the reading is accurate and only depends on the resistor values.
The only drawback is a lower input resistance of the meter, but
if you are monitoring the pack voltage then 0.1 mA will not make
a difference at all.
Example to read 50V on a 0.5V meter:
R1 and R2 both 215 kOhm and Rp 4300 Ohm. (0.01 x (R1 + R2))
All resistors must be 1% accuracy or better to have an accurate reading.
Example to read 300V on a 20V meter:
1.8 MOhm for R1 and R2 and 240kOhm for Rp. (20/300 x (R1 + R2))
ALSO change the position and types of the diodes, if you use
them at all at higher meter voltages.
They must be at least 24V zener diodes and they must be
wired in anti-series, which means that the same sides
(color bar) on the devices must be tied together and the
remaining two (also same sides) must be connected across C1.
Hope this helps,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Victor Tikhonov
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 1:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Dead Digital Dashboard
Just wanted to add, C1 better be film or other high quality
(low leakage) capacitor, especially if R1 and R2 are high resistance.
Normally ordinary ceramic caps are OK, but some change leakage
with temp drastically. Don't attempt to use electrolytic
(tantalum or such) caps here - even with correct polarity they will
unacceptably leak in this circuit.
Victor
Lee Hart wrote:
...
> ______
> +v___/\/\_______________________|+ |
> R1 | | | | |
> _|_ _|_ _|_ | | digital multimeter (see
> D1 _\_/_ D2/_\ C1 ___ |input | Intersil 7106 for circuit)
> | | | | |
> -v___/\/\__|_______|_______|____|- |
> R2 |______|
>
> R1+R2 totals up to whatever resistance is needed for the desired scale
> factor. Splitting it in half doubles the peak voltage rating of the
> resistors, and prevents noise from riding in on either + or - wires.
>
> D1 and D2 are ordinary signal diodes (1N4148 etc.) for the +/-200
> millivolt scale. For higher voltage scales (like 2v, 20v, or 200v), use
> back-to-back zener diodes in series in place of D1 and D2 to clamp
> excessive voltages.
>
> C1 is to suppress ordinary noise that's less than the diode's breakdown
> voltage. These meters only do a few conversion per second, so C1 can be
> 0.1uF or so.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Maybe an alternative for (not so) anvanced DC ? I was looking for some
DC technology that could regen without jumping trough loops ...
mm.
> The Dutch version of the Creusen website says it clearly:
> "Applied Motor Technology" ... a choice resultinng from the
> original core activity, the development and production of
> electric motors.
>
> There you go - a true motor builder.
> They even wind standard and custom motors in house.
> Accroding to the web site you can select from AC, DC
> (permanent magnet, shunt, series or compound) and
> synchronous motors in the IEC sizes 25-132.
> The motors are made for voltages from 12V to 600V.
>
> If you need help in talking to them or translating
> then give me a shout.
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Lock Hughes
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 3:51 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Creusen, mfgr of 9.2Kw 120v DC brushless motors etc
>
>
> This is a fwd of a post to a yahoo group about a company building
> eVessels, but also about the outfit in the Netherlands manufacturing
> the motors... so I thought I would cc to the EVDL `case they
> (Creusen) are of interest here also
> Thanks
> Lock
> Toronto
>
>
> Fwd: African Cats Offers First Fossil Fuel-Free Catamaran
>
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "lockhughes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> This subject is the title for a copy of a press release received
> from African Cats BV, dated June 16,2006, and posted on the EVWorld
> website here:
> http://www.evworld.com/view.cfm?section=communique&newsid=12205
> or tinyURL here:
> http://tinyurl.com/rwrjs
>
> Actually, the press release as posted on the EVWorld web site gets a
> mention first in the EVWorld "Insider Perspective" ("...our
> publisher's weekly commentary...") dated 20 Jun 2006, which also has
> a sorta cool pic of a (planned?) nextgen SolarSailor? seen here:
> http://www.evworld.com/general.cfm?section=directory&page=insider
> or tinyURL here:
> http://tinyurl.com/ll3tr
> (about 2/3 down the page)
>
> Here's the link to the African Cats web site in the Netherlands (I
> believe they're originally S.African?:
> http://www.africancats.com/default.asp
>
> The African Cats site links again to an evaluation done
> by "Multihull Dynamics Inc." ("MDI") on the African Cats FastCat 435
> Vector-K model (43' sailing cat), seen here:
> http://www.multihulldynamics.com/news_article.asp?articleID=52
> or tinyURL here:
> http://tinyurl.com/ncq35
>
> That MDI evaluation is pretty fun. A quote from the head of the page:
> "New Multihulls » African Cats FastCat 435 Vector - K
> Release Date: 6/28/2006
> MDI'S featured New Multihull is the Gideon Goudsmit African Cats -
> FastCat 435 Vector - K. We have done a complete MDI Custom Multihull
> Evaluation. This envolves Bridgedeck Clearance evaluation,
> Performance and Stability results. Along with this we have graphed
> the 435 Vector - K against the Trend lines of over 647 multihulls
> in our Database. We have displayed 4 graphs with Database Trend
> lines for: Sail Area to Displacement ratio (SA/D), Base Speed
> (BSpd), Texel Rating (TR) and Stability Speed (SSpd). Cal Markwood,
> Engineering Analyst, has written a "Cal's Eval" which narrows the
> comparisons further with other boats in the data base with similar
> specifications. Finally Press Releases from African Cats is
> included with their announcement of the first "Electric Powered
> Production Multihull". We think that is pretty cool. "
>
> Anyway, at the bottom of THAT page was the snippet of info that *I*
> was interested in - who made the motors! BTW, if you haven't
> followed these links, another feature of note is that African Cats
> is using Lion batts from Valence. Oh yeah, and the other cool
> thing? They are offering their Fastcat 435 Vector-K model of cat as
> either battery electric version or diseasal version AT THE SAME
> PRICE.
>
> Anyway, neither the MDI evaluation or the African Cats Press Release
> shown on the MDI page mention the maker of the motor, but in the
> tiniest print under a link to the web sites for African Cats and
> Valence is this link:
> http://www.creusen.nl/
>
> And that's Creusen, from the Netherlands also. From the English
> pages on their site:
>
> "Creusen Electro-Mechanische Industrie in Roermond, the Netherlands,
> produces modern, high-tech 'applied motor technology' and 'metal
> finishing products'. Within 'applied motor technology', Creusen has
> opted for a niche role in the world of power transmission, a
> preference resulting from the original core activity, the
> development and production of electric motors. Creusen Metal
> Finishing Products are top quality professional grinding and
> polishing machines."
>
> Can't tell whether they started out making the grinders and
> polishers or the motors, but there ya go <smile>...
>
> More from their site:
> "Creusen motors are fully developed and manufactured in its own
> premises under constant quality control. This makes Creusen so
> unique. Both the standard and customer-specific motors are wound in-
> house."
>
> "Creusen is the right address for AC, DC (permanent magnet, shunt,
> serial or compound wound) and synchronous servo motors in IEC
> construction sizes 25-132. The motors can withstand operating
> voltages of 12V to 600V."
>
> So it seems Creusen is building 9.2Kw 120v DC brushless and
> watertight motors for African Cats, each weighing 45Kg...
>
>>From the May 6 Press Release from African Cats, reproduced on the
> MDI evaluation page, African Cats says also that the system will do
> regen under sail up to 60Ah.
>
> They claim "3hrs of motoring at 50% power", and a top speed under
> power for this 5+ ton disp, 41'waterline cat of 8 knots.
>
> Another stat they quote: "In order to motor for one hour, 6 hours of
> sailing over 5 knots is needed..." (while regen'ing.)
>
> Hope this info is of interest, and all here are well!
>
> Tks
>
> Lock Hughes
>
> --- End forwarded message ---
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve Condie wrote:
An interesting point - I wanted to be able to generate an adjustable
DC voltage from 2-15 volts... so I connected a dimmer to a transformer
and a rectifier bridge for a test voltage generator. The unit hummed
badly at mid-level voltage, less so at low and high settings. I wonder
if that was related to this DC output issue?
Yes; the loud hum is evidence of the transformer's core saturating,
because the dimmer has a DC offset.
A typical dimmer has its lowest DC offset when fully on. The DC offset
gets worse as you turn it down. It is at its worst near the bottom
(lowest) setting, but since the total current is also low, this setting
may not be the worst for transformer heating.
To eliminate the DC offset (without buying a better dimmer), you can add
an AC rated capacitor in series with the transformer primary. This
*must* be a film or paper/oil type -- *NOT* an electrolytic! It blocks
any DC, so the transformer is happy. Depending on the value of capacitor
relative to the transformer's inductance, it also has the interesting
effect of *raising* the primary voltage above line voltage!
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cor van de Water wrote:
To circumvent any temp-dependent ultra-high resistance leakage,
which can cause severe problems in reading too low values (!)
you could size the resistors to carry a moderate current,
for example 0.1 milliAmp and add a resistor Rp parallel to C1.
Example to read 50V on a 0.5V meter:
R1 and R2 both 215 kOhm and Rp 4300 Ohm. (0.01 x (R1 + R2))
All resistors must be 1% accuracy or better to have an accurate reading.
All these meters use an Intersil 7106 (or equivalent). The 7106 by
itself can be configured for a +/-200mv to +/-2v input range. For
anything more than this, you need a voltage divider as you describe.
Also change the position and types of the diodes, if you use them
at all at higher meter voltages. They must be at least 24V zener
diodes and they must be wired in anti-series, which means that the
same sides (color bar) on the devices must be tied together and the
remaining two (also same sides) must be connected across C1.
You won't need more than 5v zeners, because the 7106 can't accept higher
voltages by itself. Your voltage divider will always be configured to
step whatever your desired input voltage is down to something like +/-2v
maximum. The anti-parallel zeners are then just there to clamp spikes or
overvoltages that would otherwise go beyond the supply voltage of the
7106 and damage it.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
When I drove the fore-runner to the EV1 at EVS-12 in Anaheim, the
Impact, it was one of three fully ticked out demo EVs GM was towing
around to auto-shows (dog-&-pony show effort).
The GM engineers said that these were one-off proto-types and to
quote a cost would be unfair. They knew who I was, and did not
limit me to the speed-bump Disneyland Hotel parking lot to test
drive the Impact.
Let let me open it up on the Anaheim Highway ... Woo-Hoo! What kick
in the butt!
At EVS-14 the GM reps were not able to quote anything other than
the $600 to $800 lease price, back when GM only offered the 40 mile
Horizon PbSO4 AGM pack (Gen I EV1 before it was called a Gen I).
Later when Ford leased their Ford Ranger Truck EVs for $399/Mo, GM
dropped their lease price of their PBSO4 Gen I EVs to about the
same $400/mo cost and about $600/mo for their Gen II NiMH EV1s.
It was at about that time that at each EVent I went to
http://brucedp99.0catch.com/napa99/
http://brucedp99.0catch.com/nasa99/
http://brucedp99.0catch.com/sjb99/
the GM Reps would say the EV1 was a $60k EV, and even more for the
Gen II because of the NiMH pack.
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE & AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---
> This sucker bought a scheme "how to make money with an Ebook"
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300008413510
> and is now offering his conversion experience for sale....
> Shown are a photo of a contactor controller on a wooden board
> against the firewall, judge the wiring quality to get an idea
> about the quality of the book <ahem>
>
So, barely having high school language skills and posting a long
ramble about how much money you've scammed off of the unsuspecting is
how to get eBay buyers?! Almost sounds like the guy who advertised
he'd mail you his "get rich" info for $5, which was a short note that
tells you to put in the same newspaper ad with *your* address!
> I have no experience with motor-to-gearbox mounting, but
> I was surprised to see wood shims to center the motor in
> the adapter....
> The brackets look undersized to help anything for
> motor mounting, but again - I am not a professional:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQitemZ130008162805QQcmdZViewItem
>
He's like the Anti-Roland. Maybe Steve can sue him for using the term
grassroots in the description to his approach...but then, a
wood-mounted contactor controller and a wood-shimmed motor mount seems
a lot more "grassroots" than Steve ever gets.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi --
I wanted to say THANK YOU to all of you who have helped in answering my
questions over the past 2 years! I'm certain there will be more!
Thought I'd share the final (as of today!) product with you.
All comments/suggestions/etc are very welcome.
T H A N K Y O U !!
www.auntlali.com
_________________________________________________________________
Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael and All,
I have a 1989 extended cab (short bed) S10 loosely based on Bob Batson's
"EV's of America" design with 16 batteries under a tilting bed (eight
behind the rear end, and four each on each side of the drive shaft). You
could get more on each side of the drive shaft with a long bed, but I can't
remember if it's one or two more on each side.
>From an old EVDL post:
>Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2003 14:39:45 -0600
>Subject: Re: pick-up truck dimensions?
>
>Jim and All,
>Having converted an S10, I agree with Alan and his list of reasons to use
>an S10 (pre '94) instead of a Ranger or Asian truck for a conversion: both
>rear shocks are aft mounted, frame rails are wide, drive shaft is
>centered. However, you need to realize that the S10 is a piece of sh*%,
>and in the words of people like Bill Dube', if you start with a gas piece
>of sh$@, you'll end up with an electric piece of sh!&. I do know that new
>and used S10 parts are cheap and plentiful, but again, you get what you
>pay for! Instead of using an S10, some people have made suspension
>modifications on one of the other truck brands, and might have ended up
>with a better chassis and body. After all, you'll be living with your
>conversion for a while. Maybe the '94 and newer S10's are better, and
>someone else can chime in and tell us.
>
>
>>From: "Alan Shedd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 22:11:20 -0500
>>
>>Hi Jim:
>>
>>I have helped schools with S-10 and Ranger conversions. I think the S-10 is
>>a little easier to convert if you are planning to put the batteries between
>>the frame rails. (I think this is the most secure and best looking method.)
>>The frame rails have a wider spacing on the S-10 than the Ranger. On the
>>Ranger, the leaf springs are to the outside of the frame rails and the rails
>>are about 37" outside to outside (on an '83) On the S-10, the leaf springs
>>are underneath the frame rails. Also the rear suspension on the Ranger uses
>>staggered shocks - the one on the right is angled forward while the one on
>>the left is angled to the rear from the axle. Further, the differential
>>housing is not centered between the rear wheels so the drive shaft runs at
>>an angle from the back of the transmission to the differential. We were
>>able to mount 5 T-145s in the engine compartment, three T-145s turned
>>long-dimension fore and aft in a box on the left of the driveshaft in front
>>of the axle, two on the right side and five more in a box behind the axle.
>>This was a long-bed truck and there was more room behind the axle to install
>>more batteries but the school limited the voltage to 96 (ed. program rules).
>>This arrangement provided good front-rear and side-to-side weight
>>distribution.
><much snipage>
Hope this helps,
Dave (B.B.) Hawkins
>All -
>
>Will all those that have converted a truck and put the batteries UNDER the
>stock bed (between the frame rails and the drive shaft) please respond with
>year and model...I am considering a truck conversion and would like to know
>which vehicles would make good candidates. I am also interested in a
>vehicle w/ the lightest possible ICE curb weight....
>
>You may respond to my email address only, and I will compile a list and send
>it out to the evlist if you all think this would be useful information. I
>have already checked out evalbum.com.....
>
>Thanks, Michael
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A few months back I started working on a companion board for the E-Meter
(a.k.a. Link-10). The idea was to put the accessories commonly needed
(DC/DC, prescaler, and serial port isolator) on a little board.
Well, I got carried away. I added my EVILbus interface and a micro, so I
could put the E-meter data on the EVILbus. I added a couple of relays,
which can be programmed to operate on various E-meter data (for example,
to control a charger). Finally, I added a 4-line 4-character LED
display, so I can display Volts, Amps, KWH, and SOC all simultaneously.
The result was two 2" x 4" PC boards, one with the LED displays, and the
other with everything else.
But then someone who was interested in the original idea said, "That's
too much! I just wanted the simple, basic, original board! Shoot the
engineer!"
Well, I decided he's right. It *is* too much "stuff". So, I have
separated the original basic functions back onto a separate (third)
board. I call it the "E-meter Companion" board. Here's a description:
- 2" diameter round PC board, to fit on the back of the E-meter.
- Connects to the E-meter's terminal block with 8 pins (and the
9-pin D connector if your E-meter has the serial port option).
- Has a DC/DC converter to power the E-meter from your 12v system.
(9-18vdc input, 1000v isolated 15vdc output).
- Isolated RS-232 9-pin D connector output, swings a full +/-10v to
work with any laptop. Does not use the handshake lines or funny
software to power it.
- Jumper-selectable 100v or 500v prescaler.
- Separate connectors for Pack+ (1-pin), Shunt (3-pin), +12v power
(2-pin), temperature sensor (2-pin), and alarm relay (2-pin).
- Fuses so you won't blow up the E-meter if you hook it up wrong.
The Companion board can be used by itself; it doesn't require the other
two boards (micro board and display board).
I want separate non-interchangeable connectors to avoid mixing isolated
and "hot" signals. Also, putting the Pack+ in its own connector
eliminates most of the wiring errors that would blow something up. The
Temperature and Alarm connectors are separate because most E-meters do
not have these options installed.
For interested parties:
1. What kind of connectors would you like to see?
2. Should the connectors be on the board itself,
or wire leads to off-board connectors?
3. Other questions or comments?
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Lee Hart wrote:
> I call it the "E-meter Companion" board. Here's a description:
Very cool!
> For interested parties:
>
> 1. What kind of connectors would you like to see?
>
> 2. Should the connectors be on the board itself,
> or wire leads to off-board connectors?
If you do onboard connectors (not sure how you managed to fit the rest
of the stuff on there in the first place! ;^), 0.250" fastons might be a
reasonable choice (familiar in the auto environment, readily available,
etc.). I've had weird E-meter behaviour in the past due to the little
setscrews on its teminal block loosening up, so I would tend to avoid
such. You might be able to achieve the isolated/non-isolated connection
distinction by dedicating one gender of faston to each?
If you do wire leads to offboard connectors, the Packard/Weatherpack
sealed connectors (commonly found on GM vehicles) are a nice familiar
automotive connector that is available in configurations from 1-pole on
up. Relatively inexpensive online and I've found them available at auto
parts stores (and CEV ;^). One thing to watch for is that the connector
shells tend to be keyed differently from the OEM (GM/Suzuki/etc.)
versions and I don't know if the distinction is limited to OEM/non-OEM,
or if there could be incompatibility between connectors purchased from
various non-OEM sources.
> 3. Other questions or comments?
Related to the E-Meter's terminal block setscrews loosening: how
comfortable are you with the setscrews remaining tight on the solid pins
from the companion board? (I think my connection problems may have been
related to having tinned the ends of the stranded wires I was inserting
into the terminal block, effectively rendering them solid.)
Cheers,
Roger.
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Lee Hart wrote:
I call it the "E-meter Companion" board. Here's a description:
Roger Stockton wrote:
Very cool! ... not sure how you managed to fit the rest of the stuff
on there in the first place! ;^)
It is indeed busy; but it fits. I used both sides of the board for parts.
0.250" fastons might be a reasonable choice...
On-board connectors are possible if they are small. I'm afraid 0.250"
fastons are too big, though 0.110" might fit. They also lack keying and
prevention from accidental touching.
I've had weird E-meter behavior in the past due to the little setscrews
on its terminal block loosening up, so I would tend to avoid such.
Yes, those little setscrews are a pain! I've had troubles with them as
well. Stranded wires that won't fit in the tiny holes without a few
strands sneaking out to cause shorts. Strands that only partially
flatten when you tighten the screw, and later crush down some more due
to wire wiggling etc. so they come out. And once a wire is out, you have
a "live" bare wire end wandering around to get into trouble!
If you do wire leads to offboard connectors, the Packard/Weatherpack
sealed connectors (commonly found on GM vehicles) are a nice familiar
automotive connector that is available in configurations from 1-pole on
up.
Yes, I rather like the idea of wire leads and off-board connectors
myself. It saves room on the board, you don't have to reach up behind
the dash and fumble for connectors, and it lets the user have whatever
kind of connector system he/she likes. The Weatherpacks are good, but I
wonder how available the average person finds them to be? We'll see what
other "votes" come in.
Related to the E-Meter's terminal block setscrews loosening: how
comfortable are you with the setscrews remaining tight on the solid
pins from the companion board? (I think my connection problems may
have been related to having tinned the ends of the stranded wires
I was inserting into the terminal block, effectively rendering them
solid.)
Once I get them tight, the screws seem to hold ok. Maybe it's good for
them to tighten against a solid object like a brass pin?
The problems I've had have been related to stranded wire. I wonder if
soldering them just produces another soft mushy "wire" that wants to
cold-flow and loosen?
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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<g> I can see how the bus company would *love* that. Set up a high speed
lane for public transport, then get behind someone doing 22MPH. Maybe you
can suggest putting a trailer on the back of public transport. (Sort of like
they do with bicycles.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: EVLN(Ocean City nEVs in just about any color that you want)
> Costal Highway has a bus lane both on the north and south stretches
> of the highway. It would be nice if the NEVs could also use that
> lane. Then you could drive your NEV to your favorite beach
> restaurants and stores. I guess they would nick that idea since the
> posted speed limit is like 45 mph.
>
> Chip Gribben
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Has anyone completed an S10 conversion using 9" ADC motors in a Siamese
configuration and a Zilla Z1K? I'm having some trouble finding any
remnants of such a project in the EV list archives or on-line (Austin
EAA photo album, etc).
- Craig M.
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On Jul 19, 2006, at 6:32 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
3. Other questions or comments?
When and how much?
This is just the sort of thing that would make me feel better about
getting a Link-10. I fear that I'd blow it up and never know why.
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
<http://learn-something.blogsite.org/>
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On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 16:45, Mike Ellis wrote:
True, but if they had been for sale wouldn't we have been expected to
pay the entire cost of the car? The lease was affordable as it was an
experiment (IIRC) but how much was an EV1 worth?
-Mike
GM spent $1B. That isn't petty cash. Divide by 800 copies. How many
buyers at $1.25M a piece?
Or what about the secret waiting list of 5000 people? Assuming no more
marginal cost for 4200 more cars, price is a mere $200,000 a piece. I
am sure they would have flown out the doors at that price.
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