EV Digest 5711
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Purchased Jet 007
by Patrick Maston <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: EV Grin!!!!!!!!
by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: DC motor experiment
by "Richard Furniss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) RE: Rattling noise, lurching motion
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Listings in the EV Album
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) dc motor
by "torich1" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Noob, want to build an EV commuter bike.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) RE: Voltage Measurement Circuit for Basic Stamp2
by "Roger Stockton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Listings in the EV Album
by Steve Condie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: My washer has regen!
by Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: WKTEC in Australia
by Jimmy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Voltage Measurement Circuit for Basic Stamp2
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too.
by Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too -
by "Evan Tuer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: dc motor
by Steve Powers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) simotion charger?
by "Lawrie, Robin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Listings in the EV Album
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Joule Injected burnout at WKTEC
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Voltage Measurement Circuit for Basic Stamp2
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too.
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Stats to Ponder!
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
24) Re: Tesla motor and controller
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too.More comments
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too.
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
Hi, Clif. Congratulations on your purchase!
My Electrica 007 had 10 - 12V deep cycle marine/RV batteries in it when I got
it. It was a real dog and the range was only about 5 miles. I wouldn't pay
retail for this type of battery to test your car if I were you. If you can get
some used, it might be OK, but I think you would be better off just doing the
major fixups before you buy batteries, then get 20 - 6V golf cart batteries to
run the car.
When you make cables, they need to match the batteries you have or will use
in the car - might as well make the correct ones up front. In other words, why
make cables with automotive ends to test the car, then have to make another set
with golf-cart ends that you will actually run. A PITA in my opinion.
US Battery used to give a discount to list members - that's where I got my
pack. You might want to check with them. They shipped them right to my house.
If you go with the 10 - 12V batteries, be sure to block them in place with
some suitable material (4X4 wood pieces with wedges, perhaps) - you don't want
your batteries sliding around in the boxes while you corner, accelerate, or
stop - it's bad for the batteries and the wiring.
Parts for the "glider" (basic car that the electrical components are attached
to) are readily available from most major parts chains - Advance, Auto Zone,
Checker, Pep Boys, etc., and Carparts.com. Just tell them it's a Dodge Omni or
Plymouth Horizon.
While you have no batteries in the car, you might want to go through the
brakes (cylinders, hoses, shoes, pads) and wheel bearings. The car will be a
lot heavier (and more difficult to lift) once the batteries are on board.
Also, you might want to put in new strut cartridges and front strut bearings at
this time.
Check the brake master cylinder. Mine had bad seals. You will find once you
have your full-range battery pack on board that you need to push on the brakes
HARD (because the car will weigh 3500 lbs and has no power assist) to stop your
car. You don't want a faulty master cylinder while you're trying to stop. At
the very least, change the brake fluid.
I'd change the transmission fluid to Redline MTL. Although the factory says
the original fluid is good for a "lifetime," what they mean is the expected
life of the car. Yours has lasted way longer than they planned and the fluid
is probably bad. Changing to MTL will help to preserve your transaxle and
reduce friction, improving efficiency and range.
When you test your motor, jack up the front end of the car so BOTH front
wheels are off the ground and set it on jackstands. Chock both back wheels.
Only apply power for short bursts, 2 or 3 seconds max at first. If you rev the
motor past 4000 rpm it may self-destruct, and it will spin up fast with no load.
I posted a message a couple days ago to another new Jet owner that had some
more tips.
Hope this helps.
Blue skies,
Patrick
<Original Message>
From: "Clif Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Purchased Jet 007
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 16:33:08 -0400
Hi,
I am new to the list although I have been reading it for some time now. I am
from Ohio. I bought a (1980 Plymouth Horizon TC3) Jet Electrica 007. It had no
batteries in it when I bought it. I know that originally it had 20 6 volt
batteries and one 12 volt battery for accessories. I have read that many people
kill their first set of batteries so I was wondering if anyone knows of a place
to get used batteries to get the vehicle up and running. I don't want to buy
new batteries and have them sitting while I try to get the car running. I think
maybe I read once that you can buy old ones from golf courses. (Maybe it was
Lee?) What about getting 10 used 12 volt batteries just to test things out. It
has the original Lester charger and ev-1 controller. It looks like I will have
to make some battery cables as I think some are missing. Can I hook up one 12
volt battery to check and see if the motor works? Is there a Jet Electrica
discussion list? Anyone know of a go!
od source of parts for the TC3? (i.e. seals for windows, rear hatch shocks,
etc.) The charging chord is also missing. It is a 220 volt charger. Any
suggestions on where to get the chord? Would Lester carry it or would it have
to be hand made. I would appreciate suggestions on an order for testing things
so I don't damage anything.
Thanks,
Clif
__________________________________________________
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
IT'S ALIVE! ALIVE!HA HA HA HA. I too got my first EV grin today. I
removed my old corroded battery boxes and was able to hook up a 12
volt to my motor. It runs! no weird noises or smells.
R. Matt Milliron
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
1981 Jet Electrica.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Don Cameron"
Why is the onus on you to prove *his* claim? Why not get him to do the
work? That way you guys can work on things *you* are interested in.
Why? because this is one great guy, some of us have been in this club with
him for a very long time, he helps us when we need it and we are there to
help him now. Besides some of us old timers and newbie's learn by doing,
it's great to build small projects like this, plan it out and put it
together in a short period of time is just plain fun. If we are able to make
smoke then that will give us something to talk about for months to come.
In short it's going to be fun and we are going to learn something, then we
will move onto something else, like motor repair I already have two dead
ones, maybe three after we convince him he has stinkin thinkin.
Richard Furniss
is it suppose to smoke like that ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jude Anthony wrote:
> But my current mystery is a rattling, growling noise from
> my motor. It occurs mostly under heavy acceleration and
> higher revs.
> If I accelerate over 25mph in 2nd, for instance, the faint
> motor whine turns into a growl and rattle, and power cuts
> back at intervals. This results in a slight lurching
> motion. A gentle foot can sometimes get up to 30mph, but
> not easily.
There is definitely something not right! My ADC 8" has no problem at
all running up to around 40mph in 2nd in my car (and would probably be
fine above that too, but like you, I too don't have my tach hooked up
yet, so I shift to 3rd just to play it safe).
When I first got the car running, I had some noise as well, and it
seemed that if I backed off the throttle slightly and then got back on
it, I could accelerate "around" the problem spot. In my case, the noise
was due to two things, a separated tranny mount (readily fixed), and the
motor bell housing touching the inner fender/frame under certain
conditions (fixed by placing a bit of vacuum hose between the endbell
and frame to act as a cushion).
However, there was never any lurching. This would suggest an
internittent connection to me; I'd doublecheck to ensure there aren't
any loose connections and then wonder about arcing brushes - remember
you do need to break them in (or take a comm stone to the motor).
Good luck,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike, I could not find how to turn OFF the "Under Construction" property
of my EV album submission.
Thanks
John Grigg
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Chancey
Steve Condie wrote:
>The thing that surprised me when looking through the album was how many
>of the entries were of unfinished, sometimes unstarted,
>not-yet-on-the-road projects. Some weren't even real objects yet -
>just drawings of concepts! Obviously all the OEM ones are, or once
>were, on the road. I wonder how many of the rest are actual EVs and
>how many are still just a twinkle in the eye?
Currently we show 38 as "Under Construction". Some are actually
completed, they just haven't updated their page. Others I suspect were
actually cancelled but they never bothered to let me know. (Like how am
I going to find out?)
It is hard to draw the line between the serious and the not serious. My
EV was under construction for 18 months, but on the web in the first few
weeks. That is how you get help.
>(And it sure looked like more than one NEV to me - maybe I'm unclear on
>the definition?)
Help me out here, it isn't going to get fixed unless you give me
specific details (Off List) Keep in mind NEV (actually LSV) is a DOT
legal definition not just somebodies idea. One could say, effectively,
there is no such thing as a home built NEV.
BTW Steve, were you going to submit your EV?
Thanks,
Mike Chancey
Webmaster
EV Photo Album
http://evalbum.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What is the best dc motor for a 1970 VW bug 72
to 120 volts?
Thanks Rich in Virginia
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you want a bike that looks like a bike then use traditional fairings and
go chopper with feet forward. This reduces drag and looks real cool. El
Chopper ET might be a way to go. The lean back of the chopper has better
aero than situp sport bikes. I'm going to build one since my Lectra is no
longer comfortable for my 55year old body. Lawrence Rhodes.....
http://www.21wheels.com/elchopper_ET.html El Chopper ET
http://www.21wheels.com/elchopper.html El Chopper
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: Noob, want to build an EV commuter bike.
> Thanks for all the input guys !
>
> It does sound like aI'll have to make some compromises, mostly in the
> battery area.
> One thing I won't be doing, as much as I know it'd increase efficiency,
> is makig a streamliner bubble bike.
> I want this thing to look like a bike, not some sort of Jetsons era freak.
> Perhaps Ni-Cads will be a better alternative, while not being crazy
> expensive.
>
> I will be subbing to the motorcycle lists and perhaps eventually off
> this one, the huge amount of traffic
> might wear me down.
>
> How many of you guys drive an EV every day ?
>
> Paul
>
> >Paul,
> >Sounds like a fun project to me. I think it is doable, but to meet your
> >goals will be pricy. Figure 80 MPH you will be using around 200 Wh/m
> >maybe more. My bike is 120 Wh/m at 55mph at 810 lbs. with me on it.
> >You want to go 50 miles. Let's say lithium will cost you $1/Wh. Then
> >you are looking at a $10k battery pack, plus the battery management
> >system, which currently is not an off the shelf item but people are
> >working on them.
> >
> >The motor set-up you propose should be enough looking at the NEDRA
> >records
> >http://www.nedra.com/records-mt.html for ReVolt which has a dual Etek
> >setup.
> >Take a look at Thunderstruck's website for the dual motor setup.
> >
> >You won't need a gearbox. Direct drive will be fine, an electric motor
> >makes torque across a much wider RPM range than the ICE. The gearbox
> >will take up your precious little space available and has its own
> >efficiency losses. The wheelies with gearing for 80 MPH will suck BIG
> >amps though.
> >
> >You also may want to get on the mailing list at
> >http://electricmotorcycles.net It is a lot lets traffic but more focused
> >on your type of project.
> >
> >I hope you're still interested, but you may want to look at cutting back
> >your range requirement if you want to bring the cost back.
> >
> >Garret Maki
> >Broomfield CO
> >http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/623
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michaela Merz wrote:
> I sort of designed a circuit to measure pack voltage with
> a Basic Stamp 2. Would somebody please take at look at
> the design
>
> http://www.littleriverranch.com/evbs.html
This is quite a complicated approach! ;^>
You might take a peek at the battery voltage monitor application in this
article as a similar, but much simpler approach:
<http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/cols/nv/vol1/col/nv5.pdf>
I couldn't find a datasheet for the opto you are using, but in general,
you need to pass a fair bit of current through the LED, which means the
circuit will place a reasonably large load on your batteries. OK, 10mA
may not seem like a lot, but if it is running 24/7, it can add up. The
largish current through the LED can also throw off your voltage divider.
Finally, ordinary optos will vary with temperature (and time), such that
the voltage you measure vary significantly even though the battery
voltage hasn't changed.
The technique in the article I reference also uses an opto approach, so
you still have the isolation between the pack and Stamp, however, it
does away with the ADC, and the type of opto it uses *might* be better
suited to this application.
Depending on what else you have in mind for the Stamp, it might be
simpler and more accurate in the end to simply use a voltage divider
across the pack and power the Stamp from the pack and place the
isolation barrier between the Stamp and everything else. This is
especially true if you use serial comms between the Stamp and some
display/user interface. Even if you stick with the ADC approach, you
could reference the ADC supply to the pack and opto-isolate the
ADC/Stamp interface so as to eliminate the analog isolation between the
pack and ADC.
Your basic idea is sound, however, but you might consider simply placing
the 22K resistor series with the LED (I'd be inclined to place the LED
between the 22K and pack -ve), and do away with the rest of the voltage
divider. Assuming a 120V nominal pack, this would result in an LED
current that varies form about 4.5mA @ 100VDC to about 7.2mA at 160VDC.
Depending on the current transfer ratio (CTR) of your chosen opto, and
the size of the collector resistor you use on the output transistor, you
can convert this current variation into a suitably wide voltage
variation for your ADC to read.
Cheers,
Roger.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Steve Condie wrote:
>The thing that surprised me when looking through the album was how
>many of the entries were of unfinished, sometimes unstarted,
>not-yet-on-the-road projects. Some weren't even real objects yet -
>just drawings of concepts! Obviously all the OEM ones are, or once
>were, on the road. I wonder how many of the rest are actual EVs and
>how many are still just a twinkle in the eye?
Currently we show 38 as "Under Construction". Some are actually
completed, they just haven't updated their page. Others I suspect
were actually cancelled but they never bothered to let me
know. (Like how am I going to find out?)
How inded? :-)
I actually wasn't even aware of the "under construction' option. But there are
several unfinished projects not so identified - #161, 183 and 695 came up on a
search for "yet". I suspect there's more. I'm not sure how important it is
in any event. What's really sad is the ones which once ran and don't anymore.
:-(
It is hard to draw the line between the serious and the not
serious. My EV was under construction for 18 months, but on the web
in the first few weeks. That is how you get help.
>(And it sure looked like more than one NEV to me - maybe I'm unclear
>on the definition?)
Help me out here, it isn't going to get fixed unless you give me
specific details (Off List) Keep in mind NEV (actually LSV) is a DOT
legal definition not just somebodies idea. One could say,
effectively, there is no such thing as a home built NEV.
I think I was unclear on the concept - and a little sloppy. Many of what I
took for NEV's are Th!nks and Kewets, which I now see aren't NEV's - they just
look like they are,
BTW Steve, were you going to submit your EV?
I submitted my Courier as soon as I got it running - a month or so ago, and
updated when I got hard data on the weight and range & got my instruments
installed. Got the cool "electric" badges, too! I've got one on the
tailgate, still thinking about where to put the others...
Thanks,
Mike Chancey
Webmaster
EV Photo Album
http://evalbum.com
---------------------------------
Groups are talking. We´re listening. Check out the handy changes to
Yahoo! Groups.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, Jul 31, 2006 at 03:56:36PM -0700, Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Nick Austin wrote:
> >Hey!
> >
> >I recently bought a new LG front loading washer. It's a fairly nice ~$800
> >device.
> ...
> I guess it really is hard to remove regen from these types
> >of motors! :)
>
> For that price they could include a CVT as well...
Well that's the best part, the smooth toque from the motor obviates the need
for a transmission! This bad boy is direct drive.
Thanks!
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mark,
You may want to contact the crew with Cool Fuel Roadtrip
http://www.coolfuelroadtrip.com/
They are great promoters of the cause and should be able to answer your
questions. Tell them the guy with the Voltbuggy wants to know too.
https://www.dm3electrics.com/
Jimmy
>From: "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi all,
>I've been checking out when WKTEC is going to show in Australia.
According to the Greater Union web site,
http://www.greaterunion.com.au/movies/movie.asp?movie=6114
It opens on Thurs, 10th of August.
>So, I called my local GU cinema to check that they would be showing it.
Unfortunately, they were not planning to show it.
Ok, so which cinemas were going to show it?
After checking with the head office, it seems that GU decided not to
import the movie at all.
A quick check with Hoyts Cinemas and Reading Cinemas showed that neither
of them had any plans to show the movie in Australia.
So, does anyone out there know if ANYONE is planning to show WKTEC in
Aus?
The Sydney AEVA guys were pretty keen to turn up to the premiere,
potentially manning an EV info booth or showing off their cars.
Does anyone know if Chris Paine is planning to head to Aus to show his
movie?
(Can't imagine why, based on the interest shown so far...)
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I can't wait to see it work. The Stamp cannot take the analog input
directly? Does it have a provision for calibration?
Keep us posted.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Everybody:
>
> I sort of designed a circuit to measure pack voltage with a Basic
Stamp 2
> . Would somebody please take at look at the design
>
> http://www.littleriverranch.com/evbs.html
>
> if it is feasible, if it is going to work and if it is safe. Maybe I
> completely missed the idea, maybe it is going to blow up something.
Please
> excuse my ignorance, but I am approaching this problem from the software
> side and I don't have that much experience with a soldering iron.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Michaela
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You guys!!!!
maby some of that magic dust would shrink this post down to a
manageable size!
This last post on this subject in my digest mode email is the same
size as all the 14 other messages combined... jeeeez! use your select
and delete tools can't you?.
It is very frustrating wading through this kind of post 2 or 3 times
in every ev list i recieve. On my computer it is torcher!
What ae you doing anyway, going for a Ripley's believe it or not, or
some kind of world record?
"believe it or not... man dies of old age from rereading humongous
posts in ev list"
rant rave ...you know!
Tom
-------------------------
Subject: Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too.
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 13:25:29 -0700
Mike, Yes I did see the rolling start drag race video. In fact it
is the first rolling start drag race I have ever seen in my life. In
all
definitions of drag racing this doesn't appear. Something is still
eating away at my logic sensors. How can you take a stock AC
Propulsion motor that they use in the T-Zero and get way more
horsepower and performance than the T-Zero. AC Propulsions claims the
T-Zero does the quarter in 13.2 seconds and 0 to 60 in 4.1 seconds
http://www.acpropulsion.com/tzero_pages/tzero_html_home.htm. I can
not
believe the X1 is that much lighter than the T-Zero. Please explain
what magic dust they are sprinkling on the stock AC drive to make it
outperform the T-Zero by such an enormous amount. I will reiterate
that a time slip is not too much to ask from someone who can afford
lithium batteries and an AC Propulsion drive. Tell your friend Ian to
prove it to us all and regain some honor. You can also tell him that
a Kiwi drove my electric car to 114.85 mph in the quarter mile which
is faster than his top end. Until I see an actual time slip I will
remain extremely skeptical of the 11.1 second claim on the video and
his about 11.5 on his web site. I should have been born in the Show
Me state :-)
Roderick Wilde
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Way overkill but you'll have a nice EV. The Electroautomotive kits are well
thought out. Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Lacy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 4:56 PM
Subject: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
> Hi all,
>
> I'm about to embark on my first conversion, and to make sure that I have
> an ability to actually finish in a reasonable amount of time, I've decided
> to convert a Porsche 914 using one of the kits from electroauto.com. I'm
> interested in people's thoughts on these systems. Build quality?
> Performance? Reliability? Range? DC vs. AC? Overall Kit Quality?
> Total build time?
>
> I don't have specific goals for the project other than to get a workable
> car for my 10-minute long (flat surface streets only) commute.
> Improvements above and beyond that are just icing on the cake (i.e.
> highway speeds, hill climbing ability, >50 mile range, etc.)
>
> Anything you can share would be really great.
>
> Steve
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 7/31/06, David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On 30 Jul 2006 at 21:22, Michaela Merz wrote:
> There are quite a few disadvantages with the available DC
> technology, regen braking, overspeeding of motors without load, full power on
> failures of controllers, just to name a few.
Ah, but the first two of these limitations are not characteristic of
seperately excited DC motors. They are limitations of the series-wound
forklift motors that most DCers run >because they are relatively cheap and
readily available<.
Exactly. Most production EVs in Europe have a very nice Sepex drive,
using a Sagem controller and Leroy-Somer motor. As a package, it has
none of the disadvantages mentioned above, and it's single ratio as
well. In fact, I'd challenge any AC car to regen to an absolute stop
as well as my sepex one does!
The problem is that there are few readily available sep-ex motors and
controllers suited to road EVs. I don't see this changing any time soon - in
fact with the adoption of AC induction motors in forklifts, it seems more
likely that those drives will fall to the price range that hobbyist EVers
are willing to pay before sep-ex drives do.
Probably true. However I'm sure that anyone who really wanted could
take an ADC or similar old fashioned DC motor, have the field rewound
and make a really powerful sep-ex system out of a Zilla and a seperate
PWM field controller.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ADC 8" will do fine and adapters are common readily available.
torich1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What is the best dc motor for a 1970 VW bug 72
to 120 volts?
Thanks Rich in Virginia
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates
starting at 1ยข/min.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ive just taken delivery of a nice siemens ac drive courtesy of rich
bebbington (cheers for driving that down!) for use in a fiat 500
conversion (coincidence!) now all I need is to save the vast amount of
money needed for my 70 kg, 12 kw/hr kokam pack...
Trying to keep the final weight below 700 kg, so I end up with a pretty
perky car (5x the torque 4x the power, and below 200 kg extra to carry.)
Anyway, Ive been thinking about regen, and the idea of using the
inverter as a charger... is there any way to hack a simotion inverter to
provide charging abilities? If not a nice pfc-20 is on the shopping list
too.
Also, the 1PV5105WS12 motor is rated at 18 kw sustained, and 25 kw for 2
mins (if I remember correctly), but according to the performance
calculator at metricmind, it should provide a peak of 85 kw. Which is
correct? Is this limited by the inverter? (rated at 100kw)
I expect this is aimed at victor...
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: 01 August 2006 07:18
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
Way overkill but you'll have a nice EV. The Electroautomotive kits are
well
thought out. Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Lacy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 4:56 PM
Subject: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
> Hi all,
>
> I'm about to embark on my first conversion, and to make sure that I
have
> an ability to actually finish in a reasonable amount of time, I've
decided
> to convert a Porsche 914 using one of the kits from electroauto.com.
I'm
> interested in people's thoughts on these systems. Build quality?
> Performance? Reliability? Range? DC vs. AC? Overall Kit Quality?
> Total build time?
>
> I don't have specific goals for the project other than to get a
workable
> car for my 10-minute long (flat surface streets only) commute.
> Improvements above and beyond that are just icing on the cake (i.e.
> highway speeds, hill climbing ability, >50 mile range, etc.)
>
> Anything you can share would be really great.
>
> Steve
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John Grigg wrote:
Mike, I could not find how to turn OFF the "Under Construction" property
of my EV album submission.
That is part that the users can't access, I have to handle it. Your
page has now been corrected.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Matt,
Nice video of the burnout for onlookers at WKTEC. Both strips are clearly
visible. So is the cop car :-O Apparently the cop was
inside, eh?
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
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--- Begin Message ---
STAMP seems like a overkill for such a simple application, a smaller
micro like AVR or PIC will do the same job at much lower cost, just
google on "AVR voltmeter"
http://www.qsl.net/zl1bpu/MICRO/DVM/AVRDVM.htm
or look through avrfreaks.net extensive database of application notes
and samples.
-kert
On 8/1/06, Mike Phillips <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I can't wait to see it work. The Stamp cannot take the analog input
directly? Does it have a provision for calibration?
Keep us posted.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Everybody:
>
> I sort of designed a circuit to measure pack voltage with a Basic
Stamp 2
> . Would somebody please take at look at the design
>
> http://www.littleriverranch.com/evbs.html
>
> if it is feasible, if it is going to work and if it is safe. Maybe I
> completely missed the idea, maybe it is going to blow up something.
Please
> excuse my ignorance, but I am approaching this problem from the software
> side and I don't have that much experience with a soldering iron.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Michaela
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I worked on one at a Junior College in So. Cal. I
agree with Larry (Basson-man)'s comments.
I'd be more concerned over the frame, the general
condition of the rig itself, not the kit.
peace,
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Way overkill but you'll have a nice EV. The
> Electroautomotive kits are well
> thought out. Lawrence Rhodes......
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Lacy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 4:56 PM
> Subject: Thoughts about Electro Automotive?
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm about to embark on my first conversion, and to
> make sure that I have
> > an ability to actually finish in a reasonable
> amount of time, I've decided
> > to convert a Porsche 914 using one of the kits
> from electroauto.com. I'm
> > interested in people's thoughts on these systems.
> Build quality?
> > Performance? Reliability? Range? DC vs. AC?
> Overall Kit Quality?
> > Total build time?
> >
> > I don't have specific goals for the project other
> than to get a workable
> > car for my 10-minute long (flat surface streets
> only) commute.
> > Improvements above and beyond that are just icing
> on the cake (i.e.
> > highway speeds, hill climbing ability, >50 mile
> range, etc.)
> >
> > Anything you can share would be really great.
> >
> > Steve
> >
>
>
Converting a gen. 5 Honda Civic? My $20 video/DVD
has my '92 sedan, as well as a del Sol and hatch too!
Learn more at:
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
____
__/__|__\ __
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,
John Wayland here, the guy who hates technology :-)
Mike Phillips wrote:
I've
ridden in the X1 and your not going to beat it with any DC car.
You continue to try to convince others that a 'thing' made of twisted
tubes with four tires is a 'car'. You then give credit to the AC drive
system for its performance, though anyone with a brain knows that it
only accelerates as well as it does because it's simply a motorcycle
with 4 tires. If you took out its modest 165 kw AC drive and put in a
powerful 350 kw DC drive it would need wings! By the way, if another
snake oil salesman came out with an Ariel Atom with a DC system and
lithiums, I'd be saying the same thing...not a real car, not credible.
You think it's fair to pit such a contraption against full bodied real
production cars. Now, you come up with the above quoted bold statement.
Since you are still ranting on as if this 'thing' is a 'car', then I
guess we should now call Dennis Berube's electric rail 'Current
Eliminator' a car? After all, at least it has a full body over its tube
frame. Still say the skeleton thing can beat 'any' DC car? Current
Eliminator has one of those prehistoric DC motors, and doesn't even have
the advantage of super high powered lithiums, and yet on limited
production lead acid batteries that weren't as powerful as today's
lithiums, it ran 8.801 @ 137.65 mph.
Those of us who constantly push the EV envelope at the drag strip all
know that Rod Wilde's DC powered full bodied car, Maniac Mazda, with a
fresh pack of Hawkers would make mince meat out of the skeleton thing in
short order. This is a DC car with an actual standing start 1/4 mile
time slip of 11.03 from an NHRA track!
Wanna retract your ridiculous statement? Or will your response be like
the one to my first post, where you dodged every point I made?
See Ya....John Wayland
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey John!
I just love it!!! I assume there is going to be video! We need video!
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sun, 30 Jul 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: Stats to Ponder!
Hello to All,
A quick note....
How's this sound? On the Zombie's last run of last Night's 'Wayland
Invitational II', after a nearly out-of-control crowd-roaring monstrous
sideways burnout, Tim Brehm powered White Zombie off the line with both front
wheels up, the car twisting and getting crazy mid-air-then returning to the
ground tearing up the track in what looked like what could have been a high 11
second run, but then he blew up a battery right after passing through the 1/8th
mile marker. Get this....coasting with no power for nearly an 1/8th mile to
cross the 1/4 mile finish line, White Zombie still managed a 12.9 @ 81 mph!
Can you say, ACCELERATION?
See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland'
Plasma Boy Racing
'We blow things up, so you don't have to!'
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM.
All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Im wondering how "state of the art" the inverter is. Soft switching ?
Zero-source? How high switching frequency ? Control algo is probably
flux vector , not variable v/hz, but is it closed-loop or open loop ?
-kert
On 7/31/06, Jorg Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
On 7/30/06, Jorg Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It isn't actually made by AC Propulsion, but shares nearly every
> feature: high regen, very high rpm, traction control. In the tZero,
> nothing is liquid-cooled, so I don't think it would need to be in the
> Tesla either... although the Tesla does go through some trouble to
> keep the LiIon batteries in a good temperature range - and they *are*
> liquid-cooled.
To clarify:
by "made by", I meant, "manufactured by"
Tesla licensed at least one controller-related patent from AC
Propulsion, and much of the design is (as I understand it) the same.
However, the controller is not actually the AC-150 controller.
As a side note, the first Tesla prototype, as well as the first
Wrightspeed prototype, *do* use an AC-150 controller.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wayland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Want to build a sporty EV, AC is feasible too.
> Hello to All,
>
> John Wayland here, the guy who hates technology :-)
Yeah! Wright!
> Mike Phillips wrote:
>
> >I've
> >ridden in the X1 and your not going to beat it with any DC car.
> >
> He hasn't ridden in the right DC Car!
>
> You continue to try to convince others that a 'thing' made of twisted
> tubes with four tires is a 'car'. You then give credit to the AC drive
> system for its performance, though anyone with a brain knows that it
> only accelerates as well as it does because it's simply a motorcycle
> with 4 tires. If you took out its modest 165 kw AC drive and put in a
> powerful 350 kw DC drive it would need wings! By the way, if another
> snake oil salesman came out with an Ariel Atom with a DC system and
> lithiums, I'd be saying the same thing...not a real car, not credible.
>
It's " credible" that ANYBODY is coming out with an electric, anything, no
matter how funny it looks, in that it is THERE, is half the battle!Maybe
Wright or Right, whatEVer, can raise some bux to MAKE something yur Mom can
haul groceries in?
> You think it's fair to pit such a contraption against full bodied real
> production cars. Now, you come up with the above quoted bold statement.
> Since you are still ranting on as if this 'thing' is a 'car', then I
> guess we should now call Dennis Berube's electric rail 'Current
> Eliminator' a car? After all, at least it has a full body over its tube
> frame.
I guess it would be easier to " Tag" it and use it for a grocery
getter, although ya may not be able to get a weak's groceries aboard? Then,
say John Forces offerings<g>!C.E. would fit in the Stupermarket's parking
spots too.Would look funny with headlites and directionals an' 4 wheel
brakes.Could get the ice cream home before it melts!
Still say the skeleton thing can beat 'any' DC car? Current
> Eliminator has one of those prehistoric DC motors, and doesn't even have
> the advantage of super high powered lithiums, and yet on limited
> production lead acid batteries that weren't as powerful as today's
> lithiums, it ran 8.801 @ 137.65 mph.
> Hey John;
Didn't CE run 153 something a few years back, I KNOW Bill Dube's
bike Killo ?Cycle, did 150 and change I stood there and WATCHED it! And
Electric Louie" Remember him? Ran a GO KART at a Viper beating 110 mph
before he got kicked off the trak, at Woodburn .Bill was running Bolder
Badderies, at the time. Unobtaniun, nowadaze . But we have A 123's, now.
Seems the Rightspeed is a glorifyed Go Kart, anyhow?
> Those of us who constantly push the EV envelope at the drag strip all
> know that Rod Wilde's DC powered full bodied car, Maniac Mazda, with a
> fresh pack of Hawkers would make mince meat out of the skeleton thing in
> short order. This is a DC car with an actual standing start 1/4 mile
> time slip of 11.03 from an NHRA track!
> As Rod sez" The timeslip is the proof"
> Wanna retract your ridiculous statement? Or will your response be like
> the one to my first post, where you dodged every point I made?
>
> See Ya....John Wayland
> OK over to you.
My two seconds worth.....a racing eternity
Bob
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'll try to be more careful of that Tom.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Tom Watson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> You guys!!!!
>
> maby some of that magic dust would shrink this post down to a
> manageable size!
>
> This last post on this subject in my digest mode email is the same
> size as all the 14 other messages combined... jeeeez! use your select
> and delete tools can't you?.
>
> It is very frustrating wading through this kind of post 2 or 3 times
> in every ev list i recieve. On my computer it is torcher!
>
> What ae you doing anyway, going for a Ripley's believe it or not, or
> some kind of world record?
>
> "believe it or not... man dies of old age from rereading humongous
> posts in ev list"
>
> rant rave ...you know!
>
> Tom
>
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--- Begin Message ---
My 72 Datsun truck was built by Electro Automotive in 1995 and is still
running! I am the third owner. I am working on the body work because it was in
Santa cruz for a long time? the body was very rusted but the car runs
fine.The man that owned it before me lived within a few blocks of the ocean
Larry
Cronk 72 Datsun Elec tk
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