EV Digest 6935
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Side or top mount
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Need ideas for electric motor use
by "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: red hot chili motor is here
by Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Side or top mount
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: [EV] Re: red hot chili motor is here
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: [EV] Re: [EV] Re: red hot chili motor is here
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: red hot chili motor is here
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) EV Scooter
by Joseph Tahbaz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Tell Toyota to Get With the Program!
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Milestones: Carbon fiber and blogs
by "Amy DeMaagd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: [EV] RE: red hot chili motor is here
by Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Side or top mount
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Milestones: Carbon fiber and blogs
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) HTML posts (was Re: Internal Resistance?)
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: charging w/ one battery missing
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Need ideas for electric motor use
by Tad Coles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: charging w/ one battery missing
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: Another thought, quarter mile
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Need ideas for electric motor use
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: *****SPAM***** Re: charging w/ one battery missing
by Tony Furr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Another thought, quarter mile
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: EVLN(CO rear wheel EMIS hybrid conversion business)
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Understanding Motors II
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) 24 Volt Solenoid
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Understanding Motors II
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
When connecting the batteries together in your E V.. .. Which is the rule of
thumb.. Using the side mount on the batteries or the top mount..,..
I like the idea of using the side mount .. But It looks like It is not as
good of a connection as the top mount..
Your thoughts..
Mitchell
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Make a electric bicycle
Mitchell
-------Original Message-------
From: Tad Coles
Date: 6/22/2007 11:43:21 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Need ideas for electric motor use
Needed - creative thinker!
I have come across an electric motor and am looking for ideas on how to put
It to use. It is old and heavy (35 LB) and not very powerful. It was made by
Marathon Electric Mfg. Corp. In Wausau, WI. The plate on it states it is:
Direct current,
12 volt,
1/3 HP,
35 amp,
600 RPM,
5 minute duty,
Relay-none,
Model 2A56E8E5A W,
Inspected Electric Motor for Hazardous Location, Class T, Group D, F567698.
The story is that these motors were used in electric wheelchairs, which
Seems odd with the 5-minute duty rating. I thought about using it as a winch
On my truck, but when I compared it to winch motors available today it seems
Like an inefficient proposal since $75 will buy a motor and winch drum that
Would out perform this old beast.
Thanks,
Tad Coles
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Eduardo
Might as address this here 8^)
Man it just ticks me off something aweful! It looks
like it's the aluminum end bell that's cracked and had
to have come from a pretty good fall as I boxed it up
best one could.
Not sure why you say it was from the guys on your end
unless they admitted something, lol. Do you know if
they inspected it in L.A. before forwarding it to you?
Anyway what a bummer 8^( It needs to have that end
bell replaced and it'll be an easy swap over to do in
house there, won't even have to remove any bearings.
I'll have to order in another plate and get it out to
you. You'll be able to get everything fitted while
you wait but still a big time drag, heck it wasn't
even a big guy to pick up, dang freight guys wouldn't
last a day at the shop, LMAO.
Again sorry for the hassle.
I'll keep ya posted. BTW other than it looking
destroyed when you got it, what did ya think? LMAO!
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
PS: You really are the "Plasma Boy" of Chile, hell
you broke it before you EVen got it 8^P
--- Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> pictures of its different states...
> http://www.nn.cl/Autos/EV/Motor/
>
> yes, it has a crack in the brush holder, courtesy of
> the trucker
> that moved it from the airport to my office. I am
> asking Jim if I should
> worry about it or just loosen the bolt and move it
> to where it should be
> and leave it there, it looks like its not a stressed
> part...
>
> anyway, I'll start converting soon, it seems. I now
> only need to make the
> adapter and get dirty. I plan on joining the
> no-clutch league so the adapter
> should be simpler.
>
> --
> Eduardo K. |
> http://www.carfun.cl | I'm white and nerdy
> http://ev.nn.cl | Weird Al
> |
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I prefer the 5/16" threaded studs on top myself. Never seen the side
mounts on any EV batteries other than the yellow tops. And the
regular automotive lead posts are not too good -- they squeeze out
over time and get loose.
Z
On 6/22/07, Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
When connecting the batteries together in your E V.. .. Which is the rule of
thumb.. Using the side mount on the batteries or the top mount..,..
I like the idea of using the side mount .. But It looks like It is not as
good of a connection as the top mount..
Your thoughts..
Mitchell
--
Zeke Yewdall
Chief Electrical Engineer
Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
Cell: 720.352.2508
Office: 303.459.0177
FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.cosunflower.com
CoSEIA Certified
Certified BP Solar Installer
National Association of Home Builders
Quotable Quote
"In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
in the dead of winter, war spreading,
families dying, the world in danger,
I walk the rocky hillside
sowing clover."
Wendell Berry
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Fri, Jun 22, 2007 at 08:53:28PM -0700, Jim Husted wrote:
> Hey Eduardo
>
> Might as address this here 8^)
>
> Man it just ticks me off something aweful! It looks
> like it's the aluminum end bell that's cracked and had
> to have come from a pretty good fall as I boxed it up
> best one could.
It was boxed very well. No problem with that.
>
> Not sure why you say it was from the guys on your end
> unless they admitted something, lol. Do you know if
> they inspected it in L.A. before forwarding it to you?
The box was still sealed and looked untouched from the outside.
I broke the seals myself.
> Anyway what a bummer 8^( It needs to have that end
> bell replaced and it'll be an easy swap over to do in
> house there, won't even have to remove any bearings.
> I'll have to order in another plate and get it out to
> you. You'll be able to get everything fitted while
> you wait but still a big time drag, heck it wasn't
> even a big guy to pick up, dang freight guys wouldn't
> last a day at the shop, LMAO.
>
> Again sorry for the hassle.
No problem. I'll move to private email for details so
as not to disturb the list.
I'll start with the adapter in he meantime, thats the other
side :)
(and again, its not your fault. it was very well packed)
>
> I'll keep ya posted. BTW other than it looking
> destroyed when you got it, what did ya think? LMAO!
Its a beautiful motor. It even smells nice :)
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
> PS: You really are the "Plasma Boy" of Chile, hell
> you broke it before you EVen got it 8^P
>
LOL.
I once shipped 11 sets of headlights for a group of Peugeot
owners from Chile to the US. I had to resend 7 sets. DHL
smashed them in transit. It seems like the worst mis-handlers
are customs down here. They'll also charge US$20 per day of
storage while they drag your papers.
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | Freedom's just another word
http://ev.nn.cl | for nothing left to lose.
|
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
> >
> > I'll keep ya posted. BTW other than it looking
> > destroyed when you got it, what did ya think? LMAO!
>
> Its a beautiful motor. It even smells nice :)
>
a longer answer... I asked Jim for a small motor that I could
get my hands dirty on and thats exactly what he delivered. I
asked if it could have drilled holes for brush advance so I
could run it with 48, 72 and 96 volts and it has 3 sets of holes.
The motor is small, but has a substantial feel. It looks (to my
untrained eye at least) very well built. It rotates easily by hand
and, also a request, it comes with a tailshaft I intend to later on
machine for a pulley to get regen via a generator. Santiago
is flat for Chilean standards, but if you look at elevations,
I live at 2100feet and work at 1750feet, all in less than 10
miles, so its not that flat.
I am very happy with the motor, Jim. And I intend to continue to
break it :)
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | Freedom's just another word
http://ev.nn.cl | for nothing left to lose.
|
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Gee dog, thats a bummer. You oughtta file a claim with the shipper. At the
very least get shipment of the new plate to Eduardo
covered. Living here in Alaska I've seen some pretty brutal freight murders.
My first WarP9 came with the terminals poking
through the cardboard box. Luckily though it wasn't damaged. Those kids they
hire up from the L48 to move summer freight with
forklifts probably don't even have a drivers license yet :-( With all I've
seen here I consider us an overseas shipping location
and usually insist on "export" packing in wood crates... EVen thats no a
guarantee though. But I realize shipping heavy wood is
expensive too. What can you do?
So what kind of motor is that? (duh going back now I see the name plate) It
looks like you flipped the housing over because the 4
terminals aren't near the other two on the comm end. Does that affect the
inside alignment any. I'm sure its better than it was,
with some special Hi-Torque bling :-) Looks like its getting antsy to make its
way into an EV.
Eduardo, if it smells nice its because Jim bakes them along with the cookies in
his wifes oven ;-) He must have left some
chocolate chips in with the packing. Do you have pics of the Citroen you'll be
putting this motor in?
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Jim Husted
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 7:53 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: red hot chili motor is here
>
>
> Hey Eduardo
>
> Might as address this here 8^)
>
> Man it just ticks me off something aweful! It looks
> like it's the aluminum end bell that's cracked and had
> to have come from a pretty good fall as I boxed it up
> best one could.
>
> Not sure why you say it was from the guys on your end
> unless they admitted something, lol. Do you know if
> they inspected it in L.A. before forwarding it to you?
> Anyway what a bummer 8^( It needs to have that end
> bell replaced and it'll be an easy swap over to do in
> house there, won't even have to remove any bearings.
> I'll have to order in another plate and get it out to
> you. You'll be able to get everything fitted while
> you wait but still a big time drag, heck it wasn't
> even a big guy to pick up, dang freight guys wouldn't
> last a day at the shop, LMAO.
>
> Again sorry for the hassle.
>
> I'll keep ya posted. BTW other than it looking
> destroyed when you got it, what did ya think? LMAO!
>
> Cya
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
> PS: You really are the "Plasma Boy" of Chile, hell
> you broke it before you EVen got it 8^P
>
> --- Eduardo Kaftanski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > pictures of its different states...
> > http://www.nn.cl/Autos/EV/Motor/
> >
> > yes, it has a crack in the brush holder, courtesy of
> > the trucker
> > that moved it from the airport to my office. I am
> > asking Jim if I should
> > worry about it or just loosen the bolt and move it
> > to where it should be
> > and leave it there, it looks like its not a stressed
> > part...
> >
> > anyway, I'll start converting soon, it seems. I now
> > only need to make the
> > adapter and get dirty. I plan on joining the
> > no-clutch league so the adapter
> > should be simpler.
> >
> > --
> > Eduardo K. |
> > http://www.carfun.cl | I'm white and nerdy
> > http://ev.nn.cl | Weird Al
> > |
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Looking for earth-friendly autos?
> Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
>
>
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Jun 2007 at 9:52, robert mat wrote:
> You can simply load a generator on an electric pickup (I got one) when you
> need
> more than the range of your electric vehicle's battery pack.
I hope you're not talking about a generic portable genset. That will
generate at least 200 times the amount of noxious emissions that an
equivalent ICE vehicle would produce.
I realize that EV hobbyists become involved with EVs for many reasons, and
not all of them do so out of environmental concerns. So this may not be a
priority for everyone here.
Still, as the old saw goes, your right to swing your fist around, or pollute
the atmosphere, ends where my nose begins. The law regulates vehicle
emissions for a good reason - to protect my health and property, and yours.
I consider the use of an uncontrolled portable genset to extend range in an
EV a rather thoughtless practice, even an antisocial one. When you need
more range than an EV can provide, please drive an emission-controlled ICE
instead of turning your EV into a gross polluter.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Remember me? The snotty little girl with big dreams? Well, I'm back,
and I have a blog. Ish. It's mediocre, but it'll do for now. I'll
build a real website...uh...someday.
http://www.electricspritejournals.blogspot.com
Also, I pulled the trunk lid off my donor car and laid up a compsite
part from it. There was only enough carbon fiber lying around to do
the top layer, so the structural backing and bottom layer of the skin
are plain old fiberglass, but this still is a more than 60% weight
savings(also despite being excessively generous with epoxy. Lesson
learned.). If I can get my paws on enough carbon fiber to do the
whole car without fiberglass, I'll have to do this part over, but it
is still a pretty exciting milestone.
Although, since carbon fiber and aluminum experience some type of
corrosion, this method may be better. Of course, so do aluminum and
steel and that didn't stop Chevy from using the combination in some
Corvette parts. I will never lose the visual of seeing aluminum
crumble like feta cheese...
Question: Does anyone know if it is possible to set up a folder in
Gmail that will reroute and organize EVDL mail? The digest is
obnoxious to read through because of all the nested replies, but not
having it in that form is a little overwhelming.
I feel somehow guilty that this post does not in any way include
anything technical. Am I doing something wrong if I do not speak in
variables?
May all of your contacts not corrode, and your batteries experience
unnaturally long life.
-Amy
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Fri, Jun 22, 2007 at 08:47:39PM -0800, Mike Willmon wrote:
> Gee dog, thats a bummer. You oughtta file a claim with the shipper. At the
> very least get shipment of the new plate to Eduardo
> covered.
I'll email them monday, but I don't think I'll get very far. The box
was intact...
> So what kind of motor is that? (duh going back now I see the name plate) It
> looks like you flipped the housing over because the 4
> terminals aren't near the other two on the comm end. Does that affect the
> inside alignment any. I'm sure its better than it was,
> with some special Hi-Torque bling :-) Looks like its getting antsy to make
> its way into an EV.
That's Jim's magic. I know nothing about it. :)
>
> Eduardo, if it smells nice its because Jim bakes them along with the cookies
> in his wifes oven ;-) He must have left some
> chocolate chips in with the packing. Do you have pics of the Citroen you'll
> be putting this motor in?
Yup. Here: http://www.nn.cl/Autos/Gs/
the last two pictures were taken today. car is still running on gas, but
its already plugged in... charging the starting batt :(
--
Eduardo K. |
http://www.carfun.cl | Freedom's just another word
http://ev.nn.cl | for nothing left to lose.
|
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Jun 2007 at 21:54, Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> I prefer the 5/16" threaded studs on top myself. Never seen the side
> mounts on any EV batteries other than the yellow tops. And the
> regular automotive lead posts are not too good -- they squeeze out
> over time and get loose.
You're going to get LOTS of argument on these points. ;-)
Most here deem the top studs unreliable. They are subject to lead creep
(the studs can literally pull right out). This is no doubt troublesome for
high current EVs, though I've used them with 400 amp controllers without any
problem. The same folks who down the threaded posts are pretty well sold on
standard automotive posts.
Personally, I prefer L posts for golf car batteries. That's not an
especially popular view on the EVDL, however.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 23 Jun 2007 at 0:56, Amy DeMaagd wrote:
> I feel somehow guilty that this post does not in any way include
> anything technical. Am I doing something wrong if I do not speak in
> variables?
You should see some of the off-topic posts that show up on the EVDL from
time to time. You're talking (writing) EVs, and that works fine. ;-)
BTW, thanks for setting your gmail account for plain text.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Jun 2007 at 13:26, John A. Evans - N0HJ wrote:
> Is anyone else actually able to view the posts with this notice?
We've had a large influx of new members in recent weeks. Many of them don't
know that they need to set their email systems to send plain text. When
they send html to the list, that's the result.
I email these folks privately as they post in html, providing info on how to
configure the most common email systems for plain text. Most attend to it
post haste, for which I'm grateful.
However, there are a scant few, including even a couple of relatively long-
time EVDL members, who either can't or won't set their email programs for
plain text. I don't know which it is (can't or won't) because they don't
even reply to my requests, but I trust that it's the former. I really can't
imagine them deliberately posting messages that some EVDL members can't
read. What would be the point?
There's really nothing I can do about this except continue to send them
emails asking them to do the right thing by the rest of the list. That, and
try to get the SJSU Mailman conversion moving ahead (Mailman handles html
much better).
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
On 21 Jun 2007 at 21:59, Tony Furr wrote:
> A few of the cells in my 144v hawker pack are failing so I have
> temporarily removed one ...
All the Hawker batteries I've ever seen have had the cells integrated into a
single, sealed plastic case. How did you manage to remove or bypass only
one cell? Did you cut the top off the battery? How did you reseal it?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Mitchell,
What about 5-min duty?
Tad
On 6/22/07 10:47 PM, "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Make a electric bicycle
> Mitchell
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Tad Coles
> Date: 6/22/2007 11:43:21 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Need ideas for electric motor use
>
> Needed - creative thinker!
> I have come across an electric motor and am looking for ideas on how to put
> It to use. It is old and heavy (35 LB) and not very powerful. It was made by
>
> Marathon Electric Mfg. Corp. In Wausau, WI. The plate on it states it is:
> Direct current,
> 12 volt,
> 1/3 HP,
> 35 amp,
> 600 RPM,
> 5 minute duty,
> Relay-none,
> Model 2A56E8E5A W,
> Inspected Electric Motor for Hazardous Location, Class T, Group D, F567698.
> The story is that these motors were used in electric wheelchairs, which
> Seems odd with the 5-minute duty rating. I thought about using it as a winch
>
> On my truck, but when I compared it to winch motors available today it seems
>
> Like an inefficient proposal since $75 will buy a motor and winch drum that
> Would out perform this old beast.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tad Coles
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Someone once told me that they shorted a bad cell by driving galvanized deck
screws down through the top and between the plates. This created a situation
with one 10 volt block in his car along with the other 12 volt blocks. He
said he ran it until the rest of the batteries died.
I heard that story at Jim Toyne's kitchen table in Port Townsend.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Former owner of 48 Volt Fiesta
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: charging w/ one battery missing
> On 21 Jun 2007 at 21:59, Tony Furr wrote:
>
> > A few of the cells in my 144v hawker pack are failing so I have
> > temporarily removed one ...
>
> All the Hawker batteries I've ever seen have had the cells integrated into
a
> single, sealed plastic case. How did you manage to remove or bypass only
> one cell? Did you cut the top off the battery? How did you reseal it?
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Administrator
>
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--- Begin Message ---
But it is about range...1320 feet! Caps can pack a lot of power but their
energy density can't compete with the high powered lead
acids some of these guys are running. I'm not saying they can't be made
better. But to get enough energy storage to constantly
accelerate you for 1320 feet is going to be difficult right now. Otherwise the
people doing it would be holding records.
> -----Original Message-----
> Dan Frederiksen wrote
>
>
> <snip>...since the quarter mile is about power and not range...<snip>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That just means that it can only run for 5 minutes at 35 amps. If it's
only drawing 20 amps, it can probably run for hours. Longer than your
batteries will last at least.
Given the low RPM, you could also probably get away with running it at
36-48V, and get a higher RPM.
35 lbs is a bit heavy for a bicycle though, might be better on a go-kart.
> Mitchell,
> What about 5-min duty?
> Tad
>
>
> On 6/22/07 10:47 PM, "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Make a electric bicycle
>> Mitchell
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>>
>> From: Tad Coles
>> Date: 6/22/2007 11:43:21 PM
>> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>> Subject: Need ideas for electric motor use
>>
>> Needed - creative thinker!
>> I have come across an electric motor and am looking for ideas on how to
>> put
>> It to use. It is old and heavy (35 LB) and not very powerful. It was
>> made by
>>
>> Marathon Electric Mfg. Corp. In Wausau, WI. The plate on it states it
>> is:
>> Direct current,
>> 12 volt,
>> 1/3 HP,
>> 35 amp,
>> 600 RPM,
>> 5 minute duty,
>> Relay-none,
>> Model 2A56E8E5A W,
>> Inspected Electric Motor for Hazardous Location, Class T, Group D,
>> F567698.
>> The story is that these motors were used in electric wheelchairs, which
>> Seems odd with the 5-minute duty rating. I thought about using it as a
>> winch
>>
>> On my truck, but when I compared it to winch motors available today it
>> seems
>>
>> Like an inefficient proposal since $75 will buy a motor and winch drum
>> that
>> Would out perform this old beast.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tad Coles
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry if my rushed email didn't make sense. I was doing the bedtime
juggle of two baby girls when I tried to write it.
I actually meant the full batteries and not the individual cells. A
few of mine are no longer doing their share of the heavy lifting and
causing a drastic reduction in range. When I bought the car it came
with a few spare, so I'm in the process of swapping out the worst of
the bunch for the spares. Not an easy task the way they are crammed
into this car. Hopefully I can get the range back up to my commute
distance and stretch the life of this pack a little longer. The pack
is probably 5+ years old, but tight finances mean it's not getting
replaced anytime soon.
I was wrong about the charger model, which is a Zivan K2. There is a
Zivan NG also, but I only have access to a 120 outlet at the moment.
I limit the time on the charger and check the overall voltage with a
meter. Probably not the best charge method, but the few times I've
let it run long there was the strong sulphur smell of a cooking
battery. Each of the battery pairs has a BattPro at the series
connection, but it sees both the batteries as one so it's less than
ideal at protecting from overcharge. In a future battery
reconfiguration I will certainly lose the parallel set-up.
I just managed to pull one of the failing battery pairs today and
found some serious heat damage to the plastic battery cases.
Not just bulging...but hot melty action. Those are definitely ready
to recycle. I'll try to post pictures on my site later this weekend
after the Seattle Greenwood show.
Since I was unsure about charging at 132v, I've just been adding a
single battery back into the pack series to charge at 144v. Not the
most convenient operation, but I figured I'd be safer that way.
-tony
76 Lancia Scorpion Elettrico
www.plugzen.com
On Jun 22, 2007, at 11:00 PM, David Roden wrote:
On 21 Jun 2007 at 21:59, Tony Furr wrote:
A few of the cells in my 144v hawker pack are failing so I have
temporarily removed one ...
All the Hawker batteries I've ever seen have had the cells
integrated into a
single, sealed plastic case. How did you manage to remove or
bypass only
one cell? Did you cut the top off the battery? How did you reseal
it?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
the math on the maxwells seem to indicate that around 200mph worth of
energy should be doable with little more than 200kg worth of them.
should be enough to put you on the board I would think
Dan
Mike Willmon wrote:
But it is about range...1320 feet! Caps can pack a lot of power but their
energy density can't compete with the high powered lead
acids some of these guys are running. I'm not saying they can't be made
better. But to get enough energy storage to constantly
accelerate you for 1320 feet is going to be difficult right now. Otherwise the
people doing it would be holding records.
-----Original Message-----
Dan Frederiksen wrote
<snip>...since the quarter mile is about power and not range...<snip>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like the News Guys need an EV education. At
least they added a website link for the real story.
The conversion needs a 48 to 72 volt battery pack that
will require a charger and will plug in. Won't operate
with just the Aux Battery. At least is was a good Plug
for Netgain and their newest products.
--- bruce parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> EVLN(CO rear wheel EMIS hybrid conversion business)
> [The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public
> EV
> informational purposes. Contact publication for
> reprint rights.]
> --- {EVangel}
>
http://www.themountainmail.com/main.asp?SectionID=19&SubSectionID=75&ArticleID=11207
> Salida business taps into hybrid vehicle market
> Friday, June 15, 2007
>
> As a certified dealer and installer of EMIS, Pete
> Hansen and his
> partner Mike Jones at Salida Conversions retrofit
> rear wheel
> drive 1996 and newer vehicles with an electric
> assist hybrid
> system.
>
> The result is a vehicle that reduces gas consumption
> an average
> of 26 percent, Hansen said.
>
> As described on the business Web site,
> www.salidaconversions.com,
> EMIS is a high torque, high powered electric motor
> that attaches
> to a vehicle drive train and plugs into the onboard
> computer.
>
> It works particularly well in city driving and up
> and down hills,
> he said, adding the worse gasoline mileage a vehicle
> gets, the
> better the system works.
>
> To install the system, the drive shaft is removed
> and the
> electrical assist system is attached. It is then
> replaced and the
> system is wired into the vehicle's onboard computer,
> taking a
> maximum of three days, he said.
>
> The electric motor is wired to the vehicle battery
> and doesn't
> need to be plugged in for recharging.
>
> Cost of the system ranges from $5,000-$7,000 and
> Hansen estimated
> the system could pay for itself in gasoline savings
> within 24
> months.
>
> In addition, a Colorado income tax credit is
> available for
> vehicles converted to use alternative fuel.
>
> Those interested can also purchase the system from
> Salida
> Conversions and install it themselves.
>
> Hansen will discuss the hybrid conversion and full
> electrical
> conversion technology during question and answer
> sessions from
> 2:30-4:30 p.m. Saturday at Bongo Billy's Salida Café
> and from 11
> a.m. to 1 p.m. June 23 at Mothers in Buena Vista.
>
> Dates of other question and answer sessions are
> posted on the
> business Web site.
>
> More information is available from Hansen at
> 539-6212.
>
> Content © 2007 The Mountain Mail
> Software © 1998-2007 1up! Software, All Rights
> Reserved
>
> ===
>
> http://www.salidaconversions.com/emis.htm
>
> -
>
>
>
>
> Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
>
> ' ____
> ~/__|o\__
> '@----- @'---(=
> . http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> . EV List Editor & AFV newswires
> . (originator of the above ASCII art)
> ===== Undo Petroleum Everywhere
> : MEPIS Linux & WiFi powered :
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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> Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.
>
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>
>
>
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm trying to decide what motor I want to buy for a project that I'm working
on.
The one I'm eyeballing says 100amp continous and 300amps for 30seconds. So I
had thought that means it draws 100amps continously?
I guess I don't quite understand.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Understanding Motors II
--- Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I must not be posting my question right.
There is no controller. I hook a ground wire and a
positive wire to the
electric motor.
What spec on the motors information would tell me
the most amps it could
draw from a battery?
None actually, lol. I'm not sure what you are looking
to find out. The controller doesn't add or subtract
the current that the motor will draw but is determined
by how it's wound.
If using just one 12 volt battery "most" brushed DC
motors will run somewhere between 20 to 40 amps and
2000 to 4000 RPM's running free spin (un-loaded).
Under 12 volts this is the "max" it will draw, until
you put it under load.
Anyway I guess I am lost as to what it is you're
looking at understanding. Maybe you're looking to see
if your motor is good or not? If you wire it to 12
volts and she draws 100 amps (0 load), well then your
motor probably has an issue as I'm gonna guess it
should be drawing about 30 amps give or take. Does
this make sense or answer your question?
I missed what motor you are actually using so that
info (or shootng me a pic) will offer some better idea
of what she should draw under 12 volts, that is if
that's actually what you're looking to find out.
Hope this helps
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Someone had mentioned I can use a Solenoid instead of Speed control for a
little kids four wheeler. If I hook up a 0-5ohm throttle to a solenoid will
it deliver a range of power instead of just off and on then?
God bless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It means that it CAN draw 100A continuously without melting. Or 300A
for 30 seconds without melting. What it actually will draw in your
application has little to do with the motor itself, and more to do
with what your load is. The trick is making sure that the amps your
load causes the motor to draw are lower or equal to the amps that make
the motor melt.
Z
On 6/23/07, Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I'm trying to decide what motor I want to buy for a project that I'm working
on.
The one I'm eyeballing says 100amp continous and 300amps for 30seconds. So I
had thought that means it draws 100amps continously?
I guess I don't quite understand.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Husted" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Understanding Motors II
>
> --- Rob Hogenmiller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I must not be posting my question right.
>>
>> There is no controller. I hook a ground wire and a
>> positive wire to the
>> electric motor.
>>
>> What spec on the motors information would tell me
>> the most amps it could
>> draw from a battery?
>
> None actually, lol. I'm not sure what you are looking
> to find out. The controller doesn't add or subtract
> the current that the motor will draw but is determined
> by how it's wound.
>
> If using just one 12 volt battery "most" brushed DC
> motors will run somewhere between 20 to 40 amps and
> 2000 to 4000 RPM's running free spin (un-loaded).
> Under 12 volts this is the "max" it will draw, until
> you put it under load.
>
> Anyway I guess I am lost as to what it is you're
> looking at understanding. Maybe you're looking to see
> if your motor is good or not? If you wire it to 12
> volts and she draws 100 amps (0 load), well then your
> motor probably has an issue as I'm gonna guess it
> should be drawing about 30 amps give or take. Does
> this make sense or answer your question?
>
> I missed what motor you are actually using so that
> info (or shootng me a pic) will offer some better idea
> of what she should draw under 12 volts, that is if
> that's actually what you're looking to find out.
>
> Hope this helps
> Jim Husted
> Hi-Torque Electric
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
>
--
Zeke Yewdall
Chief Electrical Engineer
Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
Cell: 720.352.2508
Office: 303.459.0177
FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.cosunflower.com
CoSEIA Certified
Certified BP Solar Installer
National Association of Home Builders
Quotable Quote
"In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
in the dead of winter, war spreading,
families dying, the world in danger,
I walk the rocky hillside
sowing clover."
Wendell Berry
--- End Message ---
