________________________________
Thank you Adrian for your reply
The weird thing is the Orion closes its
> contactor and the Zilla precharges- Hairball shows green led contactor
> on, but the car wont go.
SEE Responses below
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 10:52:45 -0700
From: "Adrian DeLeon" <del...@charter.net>
To: "Iron Mountain Films" <sh...@ironmountainfilms.com>, "Electric
Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.evdl.org>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] zilla intermitent start up problem
Message-ID: <op.wvnal7h1820uig@adrian>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-15; format=flowed;
delsp=yes
I had some strange Zilla issues once that turned out to be noise in the
RPM sensor. The sensor signals weren't being picked up properly so the
controller cut power to the motor after it detected a "stall" caused by a
faulty RPM signal. My EV would move forward a few feet before the Zilla
cut power to the motor. Foot off the pedal, back down, and the EV would
move another few feet...
I don't yet have a speed sensor
Might also check to make sure the throttle isn't partially on when
starting your EV. Could be the Hairball is waiting for the throttle to go
completely off before applying power. It's at least something that could
be weather/temperature related. Having partial throttle applied can also
affect serial communications with the Hairball (at least according to the
manual). If you have serial communications, you can check the throttle
input data.
I wish I could get my serial communication problem solved, I currently can't
talk to the hairball at all.
I have check my throttle resistance It is 400 ohms to 5,200 I checked that
is within spec. At 2,000 ohms I get a bit of drop out but nowhere else in the
throw.
Maybe I should replace the pot? Although if it is stable sitting at 400 ohms
Throttle off, it wouldn't explain my problem and the zilla should throw a bad
pot error code which it hasn't.
The fact that your controller stopped responding when updating your BMS
also sounds fishy. That smells like electrical interference. Maybe try
isolating the cable between the Zilla and Hairball a bit more. Does it
still have the ferrite bead?
-Adrian
I don't believe that I should have updated my profile while the car is in go
mode, I noticed that it kicks off its contactor when a new profile is sent
(this was while charging)
I believe that this is normal and that that caused my 1133 error. I do have
the ferrite bead in place.
And since this occurs with absolutely no power applied, I don't think its a
noise issue
On Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:35:02 -0700, Iron Mountain Films
<ironmountainfi...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I hope the brain trust on this list can help I am sending all this
> info to Manzinita Micro also.
> first the good news I am back on the road after almost a year, now with
> a pack of 45 CALB CA grey cells. When I can get the car to go it is
> awesome, which is most of the time.
> On my first attempt after install of the new pack, I tested without the
> Orion BMS hooked up, motor spins; Hook up Orion BMS aux (bms)
> contactor closes and motor spins; put the car down car backs up and
> pulls foward, I open the gate to take it for a test drive,
>
> then it wouldn't precharge and hairball shows error and contactor off
> LEDs (I believe this is normal) Hooking up to Mac with z term original
> error was newest 1111 Cleared codes and then got a 1113 EEPROM crc
> error and then lost
> communication Tried on pc laptop in hyperterminal but not working I
> then hooked up a bulb to ck engine light and did serial port shorting
> plug procedure and got a 1311 waiting for key. I then sent the Hairball
> to Manzinita Micro after talking to a tech. They checked it out and
> updated firmware and found no problem. I re-installed in the car, still
> no worky kept getting waiting for start error, I then checked my start
> signal and no start signal (hooked to starter relay on key). I bypassed
> that and just put in a microswitch to give me a start signal and the car
> worked. Very big Grin.
> I took multiple trips without problem.
>
> The first time it wouldn't go was after charging, the car is warm it is
> about 75 or 80 degrees. The weird thing is the Orion closes its
> contactor and the Zilla precharges Hairball shows green led contactor
> on, but the car wont go. this has happened 3 or 4 times. Each time I
> have left the car after trying to get it to go including powering down
> the zilla completely, (that actually worked one time), and after it
> has cooled down or I come back to it, it fires right up. The codes I am
> pulling are 1312, waiting for start, 1133 lost communication with
> controller during use,either direction. (I believe this happened when
> while trying to trouble shoot I sent a new profile to the bms to turn
> off thermistors while driving no throttle applied, throttle stopped
> responding) 1231 propulsion pack open, no contactor drop, controller
> not responding; 1241 key input not on while key is asserted; 1111 no
> more dtc's On Previous occasions the
> error sequence was the same but without the 1133 code.
>
>
> The Zilla has been very reliable I bought it in 05. I have read that
> it should be in a sealed box Mine is mounted on a heat sink above the
> motor not in a box. Maybe sitting around for a year it has collected
> moisure?
>
>
>
> Mike MalmbergIron Mountain Films, Inc
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