Mike Scott wrote:
"...It needs to be in UL listed conduit, and treated just like you'd treat
the service entrance wiring for your home."
I'm running the HV wires through the ex heater channels which end right
behind the little radio speaker down in the footwell. I used a big PVC pipe
cap that fit perfectly on the stub of 3" (or so) tubing. I was able to fit
3 pieces 1/2" NM watertite conduit onto the pipe cap, those run up into the
front trunk where the batteries are.
It sound like you're on the right track. Keep in mind that the car
companies don't bother with UL testing, and frequently use combustible
plastics. If an electrical fire ever starts, it will set the entire dash
on fire.
So, if you're going to use existing ductwork as a "tunnel" to pull wires
through, be sure those wires have two independent layers of insulation.
It could be double-insulated cords, like a typical round AC line cord,
with both individual insulation on each wire, and a separate outside
jacket of insulation. Or, it could be a piece of flexible or rigid metal
or plastic conduit, with the wires pulled through it.
I did get a little uncomfortable with the breaker mounted there with it's
(well heat-shrinked) terminals mere millimeters from the inner fender sheet
metal.
Yeah; you *definitely* don't want the input (unprotected side) of the
breaker to be able to touch ground! Is the breaker in a box? Remember
that the shoot fire when they open under short circuit conditions!
--
The storage battery is one of those peculiar things which appeals to
the imagination, and no more perfect thing could be desired by stock
swindlers than that very selfsame thing. Just as soon as a man gets
working on the secondary battery it brings out his latent capacity for
lying. -- Thomas A. Edison
--
Lee A. Hart, http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm
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