Mike,
there are two approaches if your BMS has no capability to tell you which
cell is low,
one is the scientific approach of using a dummy load and measuring
time and voltage to minimum cutoff, this will give you numbers on the
current capacity of your pack. Just in case I ever wanted to do this
myself, I saved the heating element of a pool pump which is 240V 40A or
so, so its resistance is about 6 Ohms and makes a nice dummy load for a
host of tests.

The other approach that is a lot less invasive and time consuming is to
simply drive the vehicle until it throws the low cell alarm,
park the car with the parking brake tightly set, hook up a voltmeter to
a small group of cells and blip the trottle for a second.
NOTE that when a DC motor can't turn, you must make sure it does not get
loaded with high current for more than a few seconds or it will burn up
the position that it is in!
Since these are CALB cells (LiFePO4) all good cells will still sit at
the default 3.2V while a low cell will fall through the  floor and dip
below 2.5V so you can measure 10 groups of 4 cells and likely there will
be 9 groups that stay pretty solid near 13V minus wire resistance drop
and there will be one group that will drop closer to 12V minus wire
drop.

NOTE that a higher resistance wire connection *can* cause the BMS to see
a low cell if it measures across cell + wire (which is common) so it
might turn out to be 40 perfect cells and a corroded or loose terminal.

Success!

Cor van de Water 
Chief Scientist 
Proxim Wireless 
  
office +1 408 383 7626                    Skype: cor_van_de_water 
XoIP   +31 87 784 1130                    private: cvandewater.info 

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-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Mike Beem via
EV
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 11:03 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] Lithium Battery Testing

I spent some time looking through the archive, but couldn't find what
I'm
looking for--> I think I have one weak cell in my 40 cell 100 Ah pack;
I'm
getting a low battery signal (mini BMS) under load when there is more
than
sufficient range left on the charge. These are CALB batteries which I
installed in December 2012. I recently tried going through and
individually
charging each one to 3.5v (after charging the whole pack to shut-off
point)
with my variable power supply, and at 2 amps maximum, it took me almost
2
weeks of not driving the EV (http://www.evalbum.com/4181) to get all the
way through, so I used a timer, which of course, would defeat the whole
process by not being able to WAIT for 3.5v on every one...
When I first started driving it with the new pack in 2012, it did have
the
40 mile range I aimed for when I put this together. I have only driven
it
to the limit of the pack once since then, and it was in a colder winter
than we usually have, so I wasn't surprised to have much less range.
I need an easy to put together load I can use with a voltmeter to test
cells, and a range for what voltage drop on these CALB cells would be
normal or weak. I got fairly good at this with lead acid, both flooded
and
AGM, but don't have the experience or science to know if, 1) this is a
reasonable way to proceed, and, 2) what those voltage-drop decision
points
would be, and, 3) what components to use for the load?
Thank you!
Michael B
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