I know exactly the problem that Mike B is having.  The older MiniBMS modules 
can indicate the cell having issues (green light goes out) but only when under 
load.  The newest modules latch the condition and keep the light off for some 
time, which is handy.

I may have some similar testing in my future.  Thanks for the information.

Mike


On June 23, 2016 12:32:11 PM MDT, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
wrote:
>Mike,
>there are two approaches if your BMS has no capability to tell you
>which
>cell is low,
>one is the scientific approach of using a dummy load and measuring
>time and voltage to minimum cutoff, this will give you numbers on the
>current capacity of your pack. Just in case I ever wanted to do this
>myself, I saved the heating element of a pool pump which is 240V 40A or
>so, so its resistance is about 6 Ohms and makes a nice dummy load for a
>host of tests.
>
>The other approach that is a lot less invasive and time consuming is to
>simply drive the vehicle until it throws the low cell alarm,
>park the car with the parking brake tightly set, hook up a voltmeter to
>a small group of cells and blip the trottle for a second.
>NOTE that when a DC motor can't turn, you must make sure it does not
>get
>loaded with high current for more than a few seconds or it will burn up
>the position that it is in!
>Since these are CALB cells (LiFePO4) all good cells will still sit at
>the default 3.2V while a low cell will fall through the  floor and dip
>below 2.5V so you can measure 10 groups of 4 cells and likely there
>will
>be 9 groups that stay pretty solid near 13V minus wire resistance drop
>and there will be one group that will drop closer to 12V minus wire
>drop.
>
>NOTE that a higher resistance wire connection *can* cause the BMS to
>see
>a low cell if it measures across cell + wire (which is common) so it
>might turn out to be 40 perfect cells and a corroded or loose terminal.
>
>Success!
>
>Cor van de Water 
>Chief Scientist 
>Proxim Wireless 
>  
>office +1 408 383 7626                    Skype: cor_van_de_water 
>XoIP   +31 87 784 1130                    private: cvandewater.info 
>
>http://www.proxim.com
>
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>-----Original Message-----
>From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Mike Beem via
>EV
>Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 11:03 AM
>To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
>Subject: [EVDL] Lithium Battery Testing
>
>I spent some time looking through the archive, but couldn't find what
>I'm
>looking for--> I think I have one weak cell in my 40 cell 100 Ah pack;
>I'm
>getting a low battery signal (mini BMS) under load when there is more
>than
>sufficient range left on the charge. These are CALB batteries which I
>installed in December 2012. I recently tried going through and
>individually
>charging each one to 3.5v (after charging the whole pack to shut-off
>point)
>with my variable power supply, and at 2 amps maximum, it took me almost
>2
>weeks of not driving the EV (http://www.evalbum.com/4181) to get all
>the
>way through, so I used a timer, which of course, would defeat the whole
>process by not being able to WAIT for 3.5v on every one...
>When I first started driving it with the new pack in 2012, it did have
>the
>40 mile range I aimed for when I put this together. I have only driven
>it
>to the limit of the pack once since then, and it was in a colder winter
>than we usually have, so I wasn't surprised to have much less range.
>I need an easy to put together load I can use with a voltmeter to test
>cells, and a range for what voltage drop on these CALB cells would be
>normal or weak. I got fairly good at this with lead acid, both flooded
>and
>AGM, but don't have the experience or science to know if, 1) this is a
>reasonable way to proceed, and, 2) what those voltage-drop decision
>points
>would be, and, 3) what components to use for the load?
>Thank you!
>Michael B
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