% Hazem's Sartell-MN neighbor Lee Hart might know of a MN person that could help with any future EV repairs/issues.
Changing a pack is a good opportunity for modifications/additions. Like adding battery plate warmers and or pack insulation. https://www.google.com/search?q=car+battery+heater https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+battery+heater According to Lee's (dated) post: https://www.mail-archive.com/ev@lists.evdl.org/msg19192.html battery heating pads Lee Hart via EV Tue, 03 Jan 2017 He likes using an electric blanket keep his pack warm. Which would mean two $30 120VAC blankets for both front & rear packs: https://www.google.com/search?q=electric+blanket&tbm=shop&tbs=p_ord:p I'll assume Hazem hasn't changed a pack before. This 1st time pack change will take at least two days (do not be in a hurry, do it right), so be sure to have alternate transport (go to work, run to the store, etc.). It is important to do your prepitory homework ahead of time. On paper, map out both the front and rear battery packs, noting the battery orientation + & - terminal positions), and map the battery cable routing. I also like to number each cable: after each cables removal and cleaning, I use a permanent marker to label each one so they go back to the same position, Cleaning the cables and the racks they sit in is important. You not only can note/document wear-n-tear, but also the cleaning neutralizes acid buildup/corrosion. The 1st time I changed my Solar Electric conversion (my former S10 Blazer http://brucedp.tripod.com/blazer/ ) I did the above: documentation, used a windex-type glass cleaner & paper wipes, a bottle of rubbing/isopropyl alcohol, and had a voltmeter by-the-ready. You should have a voltmeter. Walmart has them for ~$10 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neiko-40508-830B-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Resistance-Current/197985834 This also a good time to check the health of the 12V auxiliary battery (if it is 9yrsold, then its time to replace it too https://www.solar-electric.com/repoba12vo95.html ), and verify the voltage output of the DC to DC & 12V charger are set correctly. In the past I thought setting the 12V charge voltage to finish at 14.4V was correct. Since then, I have found 13.8 to 14V is best for me (it seems to be more gentle on the 12V deep-cycle aux battery). After recording your finishing pack and aux battery voltages, disconnect the chargers from the AC power, and turn/pull the red emergency switch to off. Use the mild-alkaline glass cleaner to clean the surfaces of the batteries before removal (I used a ~$10 battery lifter strap the battery source supplied http://www.ezred.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/BK560.jpg - do not use the lifter type that lifts using the posts= very bad https://d26maze4pb6to3.cloudfront.net/8413/6363/7683/CarryStrap.jpg https://www.google.com/search?q=car+battery+lifter+strap ), and later use the glass cleaner as a first pass to clean the cables (the cables will need a second cleaning using the alcohol to remove the glass cleaner residue). After the batteries are removed, use the glass cleaner to clean the racks before the new batteries go in. If you find corrosion, then those areas will need a cleaning/scrubbing using a baking soda +water solution to neutralize that area, then several passes of water rinsing, and then the glass cleaner to remove the dried baking soda powder residue. Battery cable's terminals (I assume yours are the automotive post type https://www.zoro.com/quickcable-straight-terminal-20-ga-orange-pos-4020-525-001p/i/G7499782/ should be cleaned with alcohol, and checked for corrosion both on the terminal/lug and lug-bolt/nut, but also for any corrosion that has creeped up into the cable's crimped lug end. After several years of pack changes, the cables solar-electric made were tired, and I had to learn how to make new ones by cutting 00 cable to length, striping back & putting noalox on the ends https://www.google.com/search?q=noalox and then using a crimping tool putting new terminal/lugs on. Hazem may not need to replace his cables at this time, but he should clean the ends well. After the pack has been replaced, and after a couple of weeks of driving & the terminal/lug bolt tightness re-checked (driving vibration loosens them) ... at the very end of all of that, then you apply an anti-corrosion grease coating on outside metal terminal/lug surfaces (do not use the cheapie spray on type, it does not last) https://www.google.com/search?q=battery+corrosion+grease+coating Charging @work If I did my web search correct, Hazem has two locations he visits/works at. His Zivan NG3 is a 3kW 208-240VAC input charger, which will work fine off a 6-20 https://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/leviton-5821-w.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuZSY7q3n2gIVDYrICh0kBQO1EAkYBCABEgJkVvD_BwE or higher amperage outlets (using an adapter, i.e.: 14-50 to 6-20, etc.). Note: when public EVSE is installed in his area, those EVSE may not work with his zivan charger. Zivan chargers do not have a high power factor correction (like a PFC-40), thus can have AC current spikes which some public EVSE detect and shut off (the charge will begin OK, but after several minutes and you have walked away, the EVSE turns off the supply of AC power to the Zivan= frustrating). % For EVLN EV-newswire posts use: http://evdl.org/archive/ {brucedp.neocities.org} -- Sent from: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/ _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
