Bob,
Did you charge Tesla(s) with that charger?
My experience has been (it has recently been rectified with a software
update) that Teslas charging through the J1772 adapter tended to
ignore or respond too slow to the handle being released from the car,
so often the full 32 or 40 Amps were flowing while the charging handle
was pulled out from the adapter, leading to damage to the female
contacts in the handle, this in turn leads to high resistance
contacts, which generate heat and can melt the inlet (as well as the
handle). The only way to avoid this is to turn off charging with the
Tesla app or hold the latch on the handle down for 2 seconds before
yanking the handle out of the adapter. If you charge homebuilt EVs
with that charger, you run the same risk - damaged contacts from
sparking during disconnect while charging.

The J plug on the Leaf is nothing special though it might be a
challenge to get the exact type if you want to re-use the original
wiring and pins and just replace the plastic. Maybe better to splice a
new inlet to the existing wiring or get an inlet from a
junkyard/dismantler.
Make sure to replace the handle on your charger to avoid damaging the
inlet again!
Cor.

On Wed, Aug 18, 2021 at 10:18 PM Bill Dube via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>
> It is very likely to be a high-resistance crimp on either the vehicle
> side receptacle or the charger plug. It is more likely to be the charger
> plug.
> Alternatively, the pins on the vehicle may have been damaged by an
> abused charge connector on a public charger. (It happens...)
> Both have likely been heat damaged, and will have to both be replaced,
> unfortunately. :-(
>
> This happens with some regularity. The port gets quite a workout. The
> charger connectors get some serious abuse.
>
> Bill D.
>
> On 8/19/2021 3:38 PM, Bob Bath via EV wrote:
> > Hey all,
> >     Went out to find my J1772 EVSE melted to my charge port.
> > Nothing on my Nissanleaf.com, nor YouTube about installing $600 replacement 
> > harness and charge port.
> >      Given that Nissan wants 1200 shop time, I’m curious as to see if 
> > that’s a legit 8-10 hour process. And given the possibility it might happen 
> > 8 years from now, I’d like to do it myself next time.
> > Ideas?
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