--- In FairfieldLife@yahoogroups.com, bob_brigante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
**snip

> **********
> 
> Yeah, watching surfing is great (altho I'm just as happy seeing big 
> surf all by its lonesome) -- when I lived in Honolulu, I used to go 
> to the North Shore in winter and catch people doing those incredible 
> waves (sometimes 30-50 ft). A little risky, tho -- one day when I 
got 
> to Sunset Beach, it was closed because a guy had just died in 25' 
> surf. Cowabunga: http://livesurfcamhawaii.com/oahu/northshore.htm
>

**end

Bob, I'm easily and repeatedly overwhelmed by waist-high waves so the 
prospect of wiping out in 25' surf totally intimidates me.  But it's 
totally cool to have a relationship with the ocean that never existed 
before.  Prior to taking up surfing, the beach was always the end of 
the world for me; a barrier beyond which I had no place.  Now when I'm 
driving north on 101 and the sweep of Clam Beach comes into view just 
a few miles past Arcata I get a visceral reaction, a rush of 
excitement and anticipation and a strong kinesthetic response to the 
sight of the waves.  Waves mean something to me now.

When were you in Honolulu?  

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