Curtis, it's great stuff to uncover a new and transformative skill set and feel its magic start to work on you. I was talking to this athletic young guy yesterday for a few moments as we were sitting in the swell waiting for a set to come in and I stated that it sucked to be this bad at surfing and for so long, and he asked me how long I've been surfing, and I said that I've been a beginner for over a year now, and he replied that he's been a beginner for a lot longer than that but look at us out here, in the ocean and having fun (regardless of how skilled or unskilled we were). A set came in and he caught the first wave and I got the second.
Here's a fine segment (couldn't resist) from a longer video of some extreme surfing at Cortez 100 miles off the mainland in 60+' waves: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz-gDAiti6I&NR=1 Marek ** --- In FairfieldLife@yahoogroups.com, "curtisdeltablues" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > driving north on 101 and the sweep of Clam Beach comes into view just > > a few miles past Arcata I get a visceral reaction, a rush of > > excitement and anticipation and a strong kinesthetic response to the > > sight of the waves. Waves mean something to me now.\ > > > Nice description Marek. I had the same transformation about rivers > once I started kayaking. They were almost invisible to me before, and > now my eyes scour them and imagine me in them! Kind of an athletic > UC! The biggest shift for me is the Potomac itself, which was > something to drive over to get to DC, and now it is a playground that > invites me into nature. It is a rabbit hole I can jump down, minutes > from the city, and end up alone on a huge body of water. > > > > --- In FairfieldLife@yahoogroups.com, "Marek Reavis" <reavismarek@> > wrote: > > > > > > --- In FairfieldLife@yahoogroups.com, bob_brigante <no_reply@> > > wrote: > > **snip > > > > > ********** > > > > > > Yeah, watching surfing is great (altho I'm just as happy seeing big > > > surf all by its lonesome) -- when I lived in Honolulu, I used to go > > > to the North Shore in winter and catch people doing those incredible > > > waves (sometimes 30-50 ft). A little risky, tho -- one day when I > > got > > > to Sunset Beach, it was closed because a guy had just died in 25' > > > surf. Cowabunga: http://livesurfcamhawaii.com/oahu/northshore.htm > > > > > > > **end > > > > Bob, I'm easily and repeatedly overwhelmed by waist-high waves so the > > prospect of wiping out in 25' surf totally intimidates me. But it's > > totally cool to have a relationship with the ocean that never existed > > before. Prior to taking up surfing, the beach was always the end of > > the world for me; a barrier beyond which I had no place. Now when I'm > > driving north on 101 and the sweep of Clam Beach comes into view just > > a few miles past Arcata I get a visceral reaction, a rush of > > excitement and anticipation and a strong kinesthetic response to the > > sight of the waves. Waves mean something to me now. > > > > When were you in Honolulu? > > >
