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The key to success for keeping feral calm
is “complete darkness” – from the moment you trap them, you
will need to cover the entire trap with a big sheet – it doesn’t
have to be something dark – I like to use a light color sheet myself, so
that it will allow some light, but feral feels completely safe as soon as they
are completely covered. So, anytime you need to transfer the feral from a trap
to a trap, or trap to crate and back forth – feral ALWAYS go to where the
darkness is – so let’s say if I want to transfer my feral trap A to
a gas chamber box (that is a box that they put ISO gas to anesthetize them
before spaying/neutering – it’s a clear box – but the doors
sort of slides open and close, which makes the transport much easier (works
like gilotin (? - sliding door) door instead of a swing door, which makes more
risky to lose them when opening the door) So, first you create the complete darkness
for Trap A (where the cat is) and Trap B (or could be a crate or gas chamber
box) – they put both of them side by side very very tightly - and you open
the gilton door just enough for them to get through and also you open the door
of Trap B for about the same space (remember, don’t create a big opening,
or they will get out). Or if it’s a swing door, you will need to create a
visual block using more sheets or blankets so that it looks like there is a
small opening for them to get through (not practically, but visually, it does). Anyway, you will need someone to help you
first so that there will be less risk to lose them – again don’t do
this in a big open space, do it a small confined space like a bathroom, so if
you lose them, they are still in side (but if you do lose them, don’t
force to catch them – you will just need to re-trap them) – anyway,
as soon as the opening space is there and it’s small enough, but big enough
for them to get through, you will gradually remove the sheets form the trap A
and the feral will either go to Trap B (where the darkness is ) real quick, or
s/he may look around and walk really low, and slow, but they will all
eventually go there – I have done this hundreds of times, and works like
a miracle 100% of the time. Again,
this only works with feral, remember!
Again, none of vets know this technique – and they usually don’t
like to be told something they don’t know – but my vet was smart
and receptive enough to listen to me – and has worked out so much better
for my feral – you wouldn’t want to know how they treat feral if
they don’t know how to handle them (I have seen it – and it’s
frightening, even for me) So, when I take my feral for spaying –
they are in a trap covered with a sheet – then, they are moved to a gas
chamber box (fish tank looking things) with the same technique above, and once
s/he is in the box, they put gas directly, without an any
injection – so that they don’t get stressed out – Again, this technique NEVER NEVER forces
the feral to do anything they don’t want to do – they DO at their
own will – that’s why it’s less stressful – does it
make sense? -----Original
Message----- Hideyo, Oh – my gosh – Every time, when I have to spay my
feral, there are very easy way to transport them into a gas chamber (the box
you put to anthetize) – there is no stress on cats in a sense that they
are willing to go to a boxes (it’s trick you need to know) – let me
know if you guys need the trick – very easy – but vets
usually have no idea how to do – I have to train them to do so - -----Original
Message----- I had a very feral kitty
and we used a long net to catch her to sedate her then she freaked out and had
a heart attack, after the shot instead of mellowing it just plain freaked her
out, and killed her. When we were taking Gypsy
in for her tests she was still very feral. We tried to dose her with a
sedative to calm her enough to put her in a carrier. She was so drunk
that we thought it would be easy. Not so. It seemed like her being
that drunk only made her more upset. She was fighting so hard that we
were very lucky she didn't hurt herself, (my poor husband did get bit!).
I think not being in control of her body made her even more anxious about the
capture. The next time we took her to the vet, we didn't sedate
her. It was actually easier to capture her, and she didn't try to bite
either of us. I would either knock her out with enough medication to keep
her sedated until they do the blood work, (ask your vet), or use the Feliway
and Rescue Remedy to help calm her. If Buddha is as feral as it sounds,
and because she's been through so much lately, I'd think about having a
house-call vet come. Give her the RR, (you can use it like a transdermal
on the inside tip of her ear, don't get it in her ear canal), put her
somewhere that's been heavily sprayed with Feliway and wait for her to be
calm. Then have the vet sedate her, then take the blood. That will
save her the stress of a car ride and having to go to the vet's office.
Just my 2 cents. I need an advise
from you – I am planning to take Buddha (squeekie) for blood test to make
sure that everything is ok before I merge her with mine – I can pet her,
but she is not completely socialized – and here’s a sort of my
dilemma as to how to get blood out of her – One way to anthetize (?)
her first so that she doesn’t have to be awake when they do that,
and another thing is to give her drowsy drug (called Acepromazine) to make her
bit sleepy prior to the appointment (risk: it can cause a seizure) – so I
am not sure what to do – any suggestions – I really hate to do
either – but also I hate the idea of stressing her out trying to get a
blood out of her, and it might not even be possible. |
- Re: OT-need advise Hideyo Yamamoto
- Re: OT-need advise Sheila208
- Re: OT-need advise Barb Moermond
- RE: OT-need advise Hideyo Yamamoto
- Re: OT-need advise Sheila208
- Re: OT-need advise catatonya
- RE: OT-need advise MacKenzie, Kerry N.
- RE: OT-need advise Chris
- RE: OT-need advise Chris
- RE: OT-need advise Chris
- Re: OT-need advise Karolyn Lount
