This message is from: Starfire Farm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Start at the halt and walk first. Take "baby" steps and reward every little try with a release of your aids. First comfirm that you horse understands moving away from your leg. It doesn't matter where he goes, just that he moves away immediately. Make sure you let him know he's done the right thing by discontinuing application of the aids as soon as he moves. If you don't get an immediate response, help a little by tapping him with your whip. Reward him lavishly and make a big deal out of what a wonderful boy he is when he gets it! Next, work on a turn on the forehand, which is asking the horse to step his hind end around his front end, essentially pivoting on the front feet. Be careful here, though, you don't want him to stick his front feet into the ground and actually pivot, it is better if he walks a small circle with his front feet. You always want to have the feeling that you are going forward. When you accomplish this, you can ask for softening of the jaw, but I would not ask for this in conjunction with the above two exercises, yet. Just ask for a slight softening on either side of the bit first, while you're standing. Again, reward every little try with a release of the rein. When he reliablly yields to the right and left, try a little with both reins, but don't get into a fight about it! If you get into an argument, you have pushed your horse too much. Let your horse tell you what his learning time frame is! When he starts to offer softing his jaw reliably, ask him to yield a little at the walk. Then ask him to move away from your leg, then add the outside rein and outside leg behind the girth to incorporate some bending. Take each piece a little at a time, then gradually put them together. If your horse starts getting a little upset, back off and go to something simpler. It only means that he doesn't yet understand. Taking your time now will reap great rewards later! My experience with Fjords is that, breaking down the complete movement into the smallest components, then gradually putting them together, helps them really understand what it is you want them to do. Once they understand it, it's there forever, they don't forget. I've also noticed that a Fjord will respond to whatever aid you give him with the same amount of force that you apply the aid. In other words, if you hang on your aid too long, he will respond sluggishly. If your timing is good, and your release reward is instant, his response will be instant. Your releases can be big ones at first, but can gradually, as you and your horse become more sensitive to each other, become imperceptible to onlookers. Only you and your horse will know!
These principles will work for getting a horse to move forward, also. Ask him to go, if you don't get an immediate reaction, back it up with a tap of the whip. Make sure you get a reaction, but also be ready for the horse to go forward, and allow him to go, it doesn't matter where, or you have sent a mixed signal which will only confuse him. Once he understands the forward aid, you can contain his forward response in a few steps, then a couple, then one, then a half-halt, then forward into a full halt (rather than pulling backwards into a halt!) Happy training! Beth, Sandy and the gang, BDF Magnum, BDF John Arthur, Maerta, and two new ones on the way, Heidi and Kjell.
