This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
In a message dated 5/6/01 12:38:47 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< We are
building a 50 x 36 barn this summer, I am just thrilled!! It will be
insulated, but not heated,( except the tack room which will be cozy) and
there are several local opinions on flooring. From of old, I prefer non
concrete flooring, but with the cold winters here etc, there may be trouble
with frozen ground etc. If we do concrete, we will of course use mats, and
our bedding is straw, lots of it. >>
Congrats on your new barn ! What type of construction are you using ?
Pole barn ? Pre-Fab metal ? A " name " brand ? Just wondering.....
For about 3 months now, Ive worked as the So. Utah representative for MD
Horse Barns. Im working right now with 2 seperate customers in final stages
of their barns being started. Some diff. considerations that I have learned
are VERY important when making a choice of barn ect. :
Your Countys requirment for snow load and wind load. Make sure that what
you buy, or construct has all engineering plans, stamped by your local code
inspectors before buying. Many people are surprised by what requirments local
building inspectors put on you and your plans, so before you dig those
footings or wire it for electricity, go get the info. Here in Cedar, we have
a 40 lb. snow load for a roof, which is currently an upgrade ( more cost ) in
an MD Barn. In St. George, UT. one hr away from us, it dosnt snow, but has an
80 MPH wind load requirment. That one makes people buy extra truss's ect.
From people who have constructed beautiful barns, I always ask them, what
would they do " differant " . Most people say that their ground preperation
and general stall flooring mantinence is primary. While lots of people
putting in MD Barns do concrete down their center spans, they do not want
their horses standing on concrete in their stalls, prefering to do a real
good drainage type of layered flooring, 10 inchs of sand, with DG on top with
stall mats over, seems to make people the happiest. I prefere shavings
myself, over mats and none of my stalled horses poop inside, both stallions
do pee indoors however. One large bag of shavings looks great and lasts for
almost 2 weeks untouched but for a " fluff over " the chosen pee spot. Stall
mats are the only way to go IMO. Esp. down the center of a concrete floor,
even broom brushed is slippery and can be dangerious.
People ask me why MD Barns cost more. They dont cost ALOT more, but do
cost a little more per square foot. They are also 60 % heavier. That is
partly because MD uses steel between their stall walls. They also offer a
lifetime kick-through warrenty. That is a great idea even if you dont have
kickers per say, but if a horse gets cast in their stall, they cant put a
foot through the wall trying to get free. Also nice for people with
stallions. The roof construction is also very important. You dont want it
blowing off, or rusting, or having drip spots with electrical installed.
Gutters and sun-light, plus insulation are also considerations with roofing.
MD uses 26 gauge galv. steel that " interlock " so no drips or leaks are
possible. They have 20 possible roofing and wall colors at this time. Some
people want darker roofs to help hold in heat....most want lighter for
coolness and light. MD offers a 20 year warrenty on their roofs. No one else
does. They reciently replaced one ladys 19 + yr old roof, because the color (
before they changed to the paint they currently use ) faded. If you get a
raised center aisle type of roof, you can add plastic pannels for wintertime,
closing the gaps just under the top roof section, removing them in the summer
for cooler indoor temps. People love them. Also, if you do get a raised roof,
try and invest in a center window, lets in tons of light, saving you tons of
electricity ! Pretty and also pays for itself in a short while by not having
lights on during the day. Get a window in your tack room / office. You wont
regret it. Also, make sure that when your electrical is done, that they wire
your tack room with enough outlets for a regular office. Many people find
themselves sleeping their on foal watch, or just like having a cold refrige
or space heater added. Tounge and groove wood panels can be bought for a
fairly cheap price at local hardware places and look great in finished tack
rooms / offices. Dont forget to plan on saddle racks and harness racks ,
bridles ect.
Make sure that with the doors to your stalls, you choose differant types
of fronts, grilled, open, yoke style for horses to hang their heads out and
be able to " visit " each other through the barn. Also be sure that they use
a really high quality piano hinge, rolling door frame. Mare and foal stalls
can be doubled if the walls attaching 2 stalls are made portable, a really
nice feature, even if just for resale value. You can fit aprox 6 tons of
loosley stacked hay bales in one 12 X 12 stall, so a door out the back of one
that can fit a baler or tractor to stack hay might be a bonus. If you can at
all AFJORD IT. <----------YOKE. get a 16 ft aisle way down the center of your
barn. Standard is 12 ft. but I have 2 local MD Barns that I show people and
everyone
agrees that 16 ft is such a huge improvment that it is worth the extra
dollars. Also, look at getting a front porch added to the front of your barn.
We offer a 12 ft one, and people love to have hitchen rails, tables and
chairs in the shade, wash racks, tractors and truck overhangs, extra hay
storage ect. Well worth a look. One of my customers now, is adding a 12 ft
porch type overhang along the entire side of his 6 stall barn. Tractor and
truck and trailer storage, and much cheaper than garages for all of those. He
can always add outdoor paddocks later for borders also under their, with 1/2
covered outdoor stalls. ( Make his barn payment for him ! ) Even with all the
steel construction ect. MD Horse Barns are portable. Many people take them
with, when moving, as they have added stalls, indoor riding arenas, ect. and
moving one is not difficult ! If your idea is to move to 100 acres in the
woods of Montana someday, look at keeping that investment ! Lots of MD Barns
have been moved 4-5 times with their owners. If you choose not to move one,
just the name alone keeps its resale value for your horse property. Just
another consideration.
Good-Luck with your new barn ! Hope some of these ideas give you some !
Let me know if you have any questions or need ideas on accessorys, and I'll
contact someone in your area to send you some materials on barn building. MD
also has a great tape on barn construction.....very helpful, even if you are
not going with any name brand. Lisa Pedersen
PS Ooops forgot.....
If you plan ahead for how you are going to water your horses it is advised.
Indoor waterers can be great, but need to be insulated down to 4 + ft. under
your floor to prevent pipes freezing. Nelson Waters are now made with heaters
AND a rolling " water usage " spinner, that tells you how much your horse
drinks per day. Nice feature. If you plan on watering with a hose / bucket
with a fire-hydrant type of pipe indoors, also look to having good drainage
and a plug nearby for extra heated elements to keep it from freezing also.
Even in insulated barns, indoor things do freeze, FYI.
One stall set aside for wash racks, washer, dryers ect. is great, but make
sure that its set with a huge drain before incasing it in concrete. Mats for
sure there and a set in galvenized hitching post / wash rack is a good idea.
It can also be used as an inspection / palpation stock for a vet or farrier
also. Most people leave that stall completly open in front and have no access
door behind, saving you some money in 2 doors. LP
