Hey Mark! I've used Dektol with 3378, I like the look but have not used it with
tri x. With the 3378 I only process in pail for about 2.5 minutes. Do a very
short test of film, I suspect 3 mins at max for Dektol.
Good luck!
Sent from Outlook
_____________________________
From: Mark Street <mstreet...@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2015 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Frameworks] processing 16mm Tri X as negative in a bucket like
a savage
To: Experimental Film Discussion List <frameworks@jonasmekasfilms.com>
Hi Roger,
Wonder if you have any experience using Dektol rather than D-76? Am
about to jump in as soon as it gets dark here in Brooklyn tonight, and I bought
Dektol....
all the best,
Mark Street
www.markstreetfilms.com
On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 6:14 PM, Roger D. Wilson
<rogerdwil...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
This may help you out Mark, it's a post from my blog.
Hand Processing 16mm black and white film
Materials for processing film as negative:
Kodak D-76 Developer (powder) Kodak
Rapid Fixer with Hardener (do not mix in hardener if you plan to tint and tone
film) 2 - 4 litre photographic chemical storage containers
1 Flat-top thermometer 1 Measuring graduate
4 - large 10 litre pails (purchase paint mixing pails from
Home Depot) 1 Funnel 1 Pair rubber gloves
1 Face mask 1 Pair scissors
1 Length of string and clothes pegs 1 Pair goggles
1 Photographers loupe 1 Watch that glows in
the dark
You should process film in a room that has running water.
The room should also have good ventilation. You will need complete darkness to
process the film so the room also needs to be light tight. Bathrooms work best
and most have a ceiling fan. If your bathroom has a window you can cover it
with black foam core or any material that will prevent light from leaking in.
Turn lights off and wait a few minutes and let your eyes adjust to the
darkness. If you see your hands in front of your face it is not dark enough.
Caution: Remember you are working with chemicals so be
careful and use goggles, rubber gloves and process the film in a well
ventilated room.
Step by Step Instructions
To develop film as negative:
1. Pre-mix chemicals using Kodak’s instructions on
packaging. Store chemicals in proper photographic storage containers. Label the
containers with contents and date of mixing. I usually replace developer after
1000’ of 16 film or after it has sat for more than two months. Fixer lasts
longer so check mixing instructions for how long to store chemicals.
2. I usually use warm water to mix the chemicals so I
allow the chemicals to sit until they get to room temperature before I start to
process film. Kodak recommends processing the film in developer that is between
20 and 24 degrees Celsius temperature. The warmer the water the shorter the
develop time.
3. Place side by side on the floor or in tub your 4 pails.
Pour into the first pail the Kodak Developer then fill the pail directly beside
it with water. In the third pail pour in the Rapid Fixer and fill the fourth
pail with water.
4. Double check that your room is light tight, if not fix
light leaks before processing film.
5. If room is completely dark then take your roll of
exposed 16mm film out of its film can. Unravel in your hand the amount of film
you wish to process. The less you process at a time the cleaner your results
will be (less scratches and unprocessed areas). Place film that you will not be
processing back into film can and secure it so light does not expose it when
you turn the lights back on.
6. Take the film that is in your hand and dunk it into the
D-76 developer, continuously agitate the film during processing. I usually
process black and white film for 3.5 minutes in D-76 chemicals but I recommend
doing your own tests as well because this also depends on how you expose your
film in camera.
7. At the 3.5 minute point take film out of Developer and
dunk in water and rinse film, agitate film in water for 2 minutes.
8. At 2 minute point pull film out of water and dunk in
Rapid Fixer. Agitate the film in the Fixer for 4 to 6 minutes.
9. After the film has been fixed pull it out and place it
in the final water rinse. At this point you can turn the lights back on. I
usually rinse the film for at least 20 minutes, replenishing the water a couple
times.
10. After rinsing hang the film up on a string to dry.
11. After the film has completely dried find tail end and
roll back onto spool/core.
12. Exposure times using G-3 Morse Tank and D-76 Developer
Developer 8 minutes: 8 passes through tank (1 pass would
be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other), each pass should take
about a minute.
Rinse in water 6 minutes: I like to really rinse my film
off well so that my chemicals last longer. I fill the tank up with fresh water
between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be transferring the entire
roll of film from one reel to the other and then back again to first reel). I
do this three times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes in total depending on how
fast you turn handle.
Fix in Kodak Rapid fixer 12 minutes: 12 passes through
tank (1 pass would be transferring entire roll from one reel to the other),
each pass should take about a minute.
Final Rinse in water 25 minutes: Rinse film off well
because any fix left on film will leave white marks behind. I fill the tank up
with fresh water between each full cycle pass (full cycle pass would be
transferring the entire roll of film from one reel to the other and then back
again to first reel). I do this eight times, each full cycle taking 2 minutes
in total depending on how fast you turn handle.
Sent from Outlook
On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 12:59 PM -0700, "Mark Street"
<mstreet...@gmail.com> wrote:
ooops forgot to change the subject
heading on this....
Hey Party
Animals,
I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative) in a
bucket in my basement next week. Haven't done this in years. Can someone
point me to a fairly current guide to how to do so? Of course, I realize it'll
be mostly trial and mostly error.... But a start (chemistry, times etc etc)
would be appreciated.
all the best,
Mark Street
www.markstreetfilms.com
On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Mark Street
<mstreet...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Party Animal,
I plan on processing some 16mm Tri X reversal (as negative)
in a bucket in my basement next week. Haven't done this in years. Can someone
point me to a fairly current guide to how to do so? Of course, I realize it'll
be mostly trial and mostly error.... But a start (chemistry, times etc etc)
would be appreciated.
all the best,
Mark Street
www.markstreetfilms.com
On Sun, Jul
26, 2015 at 12:47 PM, Michael Betancourt
<hinterland.mov...@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a piece on Joshua Gen
Solondz's flicker film Prisoner's Cinema that's up on Bright
Lights Film Journal.
http://brightlightsfilm.com/technology-and-transcendence-on-joshua-gen-solondzs-prisoners-cinema-2012/#.VbT60vlViko
Michael Betancourt
Savannah, GA USA
michaelbetancourt.com
twitter.com/cinegraphic |
vimeo.com/cinegraphic
www.cinegraphic.net | the avant-garde film & video blog
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