I'm sorry if I have missed it but have you looked in your cups error
log for any messages.  Also set your log level to debug and restart
cups to get more detailed messages.

The problem is that my print jobs don't even reach my local cups server!

Here is an example:
$ enscript --verbose=3 todo
AFM: scanning path...
AFM: reading font map "/usr/share/enscript/afm/font.map"
AFM: font mapping: AvantGarde-Demi -> /usr/share/enscript/afm/agd
...
... font crap removed to conserve space
...
AFM: font mapping: ZapfDingbats -> /usr/share/enscript/afm/zd
reading AFM info for font "Courier"
file_lookup(): /usr/share/enscript/enscript.pro #t
file_lookup(): /usr/share/enscript/88591.enc    #t
file_lookup(): /usr/share/enscript/simple.hdr   #t
%Format: fmodstr $D{%a %b %d %H:%M:%S %Y}
%Format: pagenumstr $V$%
processing file "todo"...
lpr: error - scheduler not responding!
[ 1 pages * 1 copy ] sent to printer

I think there is some kind of a magical hidden setting that still
makes lpr/cups think that my printer server is on a different machine
(namely lanmachine:631/printers/printername) instead of localhost.
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