I made a "Mary Tudor" dress using the book and was pleasantly surprised.
Nice french hood patterns.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dawn
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 2:13 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Tudor Tailor -- another review 


I received my copy this morning, and have spent most of the day reading 
it. I'm more impressed than I thought I would be. First, the quality of 
the book, the binding, the paper, and the photography, is very good. The 
first three chapters have a lot of pictures, some I've seen a lot of 
other places, and many I had not seen before anywhere else. The color is 
good and the photos are clear, even though most are less than 3" across.

The first part of the book is chock full of details and tidbits of 
clothing information taken from sources, covering things like the weave 
and cut of hose, foundation padding, hair dressing, the costs of 
different kinds of stockings, and the colors used for petticoats. Some 
of the text is footnoted with sources, some of it is not.  It rather 
rambles with no set direction, but it's interesting.

There is a useful table on period fabrics, and a short section on basic 
sewing techniques like buttonholes and pleats. However, this is not a 
beginner's book. You should have a moderate sewing ability, including 
being able to draft up the scale diagrams and alter them to fit you, and 
construct them with minimal directions. It will help immensely if you 
already have some experience with clothing from this period, because a 
lot of the instructions given are very scant, and if you don't know what 
it is supposed to look like, you'll be lost.

There's a page on how to fit men's hose, which might be useful to some 
people I know. However, there's also a picture of a man in hose with 
slashes above the knee, and no hint of how they're made. Obviously, 
there's slashes, but there's also some kind of lining which isn't 
explained. There's a number of other patterns which variations pictured 
-- some of which can be figured out by looking at other patterns, and 
some of which are again never explained. Mostly, it's sleeves.

The patterns cover a good spectrum, male and female, upper and lower 
class, Henrician and Elizabethan styles. I wish some of the accompanying 
photos of the modelled clothing were larger and showed more detail. 
There's directions for farthingales and rolls, ruffs and collars, and 
about ten hats and hoods. My main complaint about the patterns is they 
are mostly undocumented. There's nothing on them alluding to a source 
garment or painting used as reference. The few exceptions, like the 
loose kirtle, are already covered in Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion_.

Finally, the models are all impossibly thin and the patterns are drafted 
for the size 12-14 range. If you are larger than that, and a lot of 
folks these days are, you are in for a lot of work.

Overall, I was pleased with the book. It's a good one-stop source for 
the 1500's if you're going to be doing recreation clothing. If you 
already have patterns or a wardrobe you don't *need* this book, but some 
of the reference photos might make it worth it. If you've never sewn 
anything before, this might be a little overwhelming and I would 
definitely brush up on basic sewing and fitting techniques or work with 
an experienced helper.


Dawn

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