My students are designing a production of "Dracula" (1897) and are required to do research and designs for the costumes. There has been a lot of discussion of vest colors and appropriate coats for various occasions. I learned (Esquire Book of Men's Clothing, mostly) that the rule of thumb is white tie and vest with tails, black tie and vest with tux. A man in black tie and tails would be a servant ie butler or waiter. So my students have found a lot of research contrary to what my assumption was. I have seen pictures of white vest and black tie with tails, white vest and white tie with tuxedos, black vest and tie with tails on gentlemen who would never be mistaken for servants and all other permutations. The research they have found is secondary, meaning drawings from the period rather than actual photographs. Have I been wrong all these years? Also, it was my understanding that tuxedos were not considered proper in the presence of ladies. Tails were required for those occasions, although I do understand that this convention gradually faded away. Can someone elucidate me? Cheryl Odom College of Santa Fe
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