On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 6:47 PM, otsisto <otsi...@socket.net> wrote:
> The caps the cuffs and bodice look more like a part of the fabric then
> embroidery. The bodice, if you enlarge the pictures appears to be pleated.
> http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CARIANISeduction.JPG
> http://tinyurl.com/8q48hy
>
> There are other paintings that have pleated or gathered fronts.
> ex:
> http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/LadyParapet.jpg
> http://tinyurl.com/8gepo9
>
> Perhaps brocade is not the correct term. What I am saying is that the fabric
> may have had a design woven on one of the selvage ends (similar to some sari
> fabrics), including the "yellow" band and the seamstress may have made use
> of it by cutting the fabric and sewing it so that the design would end up at
> the cuffs, bodice and caps. The band seen is to big for a simple running
> stitch.

That may be. I have also seen yarn threads ran along pieces for the
same effect.
The second picture looks to me to be gathered and the cloth sewn down
on top. This was very common in Italy in the 15th c. as it was for
chemises. The reason I thought the chemise in the first one may have
been smocked was the way the gathers lay flat against the design and
didn't seem to have line for a break. Of course it could be the Artist
interpretation. None of us could be sure without a time machine.
Smocking was used in Germany and Italy in the 15th c. and occasionally
in France and Spain.


-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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