On Fri, 23 Jan 2009, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

Hi,

I am planning to make a silk dress inspired by this picture:
http://www.sca.org.au/st_florians/university/library/articles-howtos/heraldry/HeraldicFrocksS_files/image042.jpg
But I cannot remember what the actual source for this picture is (if there is 
one). I mean, is it a redrawing from a certain manuscript? Do you think such 
dress is historically accurate?

If yes, I would really like to know what do you think about it's fastening. 
There's no visible fastening at the front and I guess a side-lacing would not 
be very frequent at that time, not to say about back lacing. How would you 
fasten this dress? I would say with fron spiral lacing, but that would really 
distort the pattern... Hooks and eyes might be a solution, but again, I'm not 
sure if they would be right for this period and dress.

One other thing - the tippets seem to be a separate garment, though I believe 
Robin Netherton's theory of them being a part of the gown, but on this 
particular picture it wouldn't make sense. The undergown would have to be 
mi-parti as well to exactly match the outer dress colours and pattern. I think 
medieval dresses werent THAT sophisticated.

If you think the dress is totally inaccurate, just a creation of someone's 
mind, I'll go for one of the Luttrell Psalter dresses:
http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/surcotes/luttrell.jpg

These are cotes and surcotes, so no problem with lacing there. But I really 
like the first picure...so i would prefer it if it were worth it.

Thanks for help,

Zuzana


I'll let Robin speak to the matters of the Gothic Fitted Dress, heraldic dress and also of tippets. :-)

IIRC that's one of the color plates from Mary G. Houston's book on 13th-15th c. costume. The one plus to that book is that she lists her sources at least some of the time so one can go investigate the originals. I have a copy, so I could check and see whether there's a citation for that one or if it's something she made up. She may have based the drawing on an actual illumination but I don't *think* it's taken completely from a real source. As I mentioned, I can check when I get home.

Jen
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