Penny -
I understood that Poiret was conscripted into the French Army during the
great war as well. I don't have a reference for that but I think it was the
French language monograph of his work.
I don't have any original magazines from the period but I just re-read Jean
Phillippe Worth's "A Century of Fashion" . It is a funny little book from
about 1928 and talks mostly about his memories of the elegant clients of
the House of Worth but towards the end of the book he does talk about how
difficult it was to get good silks once the war started and continuing on
into the 1920s.
It's not much help except to document that the House of Worth was there and
Jean Phillippe Worth (Charles Frederich Worth's son) was the main
coutourier.
Agnes
Original message:
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:52:55 -0500
From: "Penny Ladnier" <pe...@costumegallery.com>
Subject: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1
To: "h-costume" <h-cost...@indra.com>
Message-ID: <016baf8c4dda46aa8378143abb705...@gallerylapy>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
What happened to European design houses during World War I. I have read
that the Parisian design houses closed during the war. Did their businesses
move to other locations? If so, where? I know Jean Patou was a new
designer before the war. He closed his house and served in the war. What
happened to the other designers?
I searched through my entire collection of L'Art et la Mode magazines from
1914-1919. L'Art was a Parisian high-fashion magazine. Designers were not
in the magazine until 1919, and then there were only a few. The major
fashion illustrators presented renderings of fashions to the magazine. I
wonder where the illustrators were drawing their inspirations for the
fashions. Can other h-costumers who have European fashion magazines please
check the WW1 time frame check for designers. How long was it until the
design houses were functional after the war? I have a U.S. fashion
industry trade magazine/journal from 1918. The journal is devoted to
preparing the industry for gearing up the businesses and factories up for
the end of the war. I am looking at actual period publications that have
documented the designers in business at the time frame.
I have documented the following designers. Some where Paris-based designers
but I don't know where their businesses were based during the war. I am
wondering if the designers contracted other businesses to produce their
designs.
From 1916 Harry Angelo Catalog Designers: This catalog was published in NYC
and Paris http://www.costumegallery.com/1916/Christy/ .
Agnes, Beer, Alice Bernard, Bulloz, Georges Doeuillet, Drecoll, Dumay,
Georgette, Jenny (Jeanne Adele Bernard), Charles Klein, Martial & Armand,
Monge, Paquin, and Premet.
From 1916 Harper's Bazar Designers:
Bendal, Alice Bernard, Callot Soeurs, Carroll, Doucet, Lady Duff Gordon,
Fanny, Hickson, Charles Klein, McNally, Premet, Redfern, and Tappe.
Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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