Yes, Poiret was conscripted, but heck every man with four sound limbs between 18 and 50 was drafted for something during WWI. Don't know if his designs were used, but if I remember correctly, his official capacity was to redesign French soldiers uniforms.
If I recall, most designers didn't close shop the second war was declared in August 1914. Many houses stayed open until the spring of 1915 and somewhat beyond. A good number of designers followed their clientele to unoccupied southern France(the then new designer Gabrielle Chanel, among them), England and USA if they didn't remain in Paris. Vogue and other fashion magazines continued to carry their designs, especially those done for the theatre and those clients lucky and rich enough to have seaside and homes elsewhere well out of reach of any troop action by ground, sea, or air. Cindy Abel -----Original Message----- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Agnes Gawne Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 1:11 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1 Penny - I understood that Poiret was conscripted into the French Army during the great war as well. I don't have a reference for that but I think it was the French language monograph of his work. I don't have any original magazines from the period but I just re-read Jean Phillippe Worth's "A Century of Fashion" . It is a funny little book from about 1928 and talks mostly about his memories of the elegant clients of the House of Worth but towards the end of the book he does talk about how difficult it was to get good silks once the war started and continuing on into the 1920s. It's not much help except to document that the House of Worth was there and Jean Phillippe Worth (Charles Frederich Worth's son) was the main coutourier. Agnes Original message: Message: 3 Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:52:55 -0500 From: "Penny Ladnier" <pe...@costumegallery.com> Subject: [h-cost] Fashion Designers and WW1 To: "h-costume" <h-cost...@indra.com> Message-ID: <016baf8c4dda46aa8378143abb705...@gallerylapy> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" What happened to European design houses during World War I. I have read that the Parisian design houses closed during the war. Did their businesses move to other locations? If so, where? I know Jean Patou was a new designer before the war. He closed his house and served in the war. What happened to the other designers? I searched through my entire collection of L'Art et la Mode magazines from 1914-1919. L'Art was a Parisian high-fashion magazine. Designers were not in the magazine until 1919, and then there were only a few. The major fashion illustrators presented renderings of fashions to the magazine. I wonder where the illustrators were drawing their inspirations for the fashions. Can other h-costumers who have European fashion magazines please check the WW1 time frame check for designers. How long was it until the design houses were functional after the war? I have a U.S. fashion industry trade magazine/journal from 1918. The journal is devoted to preparing the industry for gearing up the businesses and factories up for the end of the war. I am looking at actual period publications that have documented the designers in business at the time frame. I have documented the following designers. Some where Paris-based designers but I don't know where their businesses were based during the war. I am wondering if the designers contracted other businesses to produce their designs. >From 1916 Harry Angelo Catalog Designers: This catalog was published in NYC >and Paris http://www.costumegallery.com/1916/Christy/ . Agnes, Beer, Alice Bernard, Bulloz, Georges Doeuillet, Drecoll, Dumay, Georgette, Jenny (Jeanne Adele Bernard), Charles Klein, Martial & Armand, Monge, Paquin, and Premet. >From 1916 Harper's Bazar Designers: Bendal, Alice Bernard, Callot Soeurs, Carroll, Doucet, Lady Duff Gordon, Fanny, Hickson, Charles Klein, McNally, Premet, Redfern, and Tappe. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
