I am sure there will be others here who can explain, but one yahoogroup that 
might also be of help to you is the German Ren Costumers group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GermanRenCostume/
The people there have figured it out and are usually very helpful.

hth,
Kimiko


--- On Sat, 5/30/09, Joan Mielke <joan.mielke.y...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Despite looking at a lot of
> paintings, I am still puzzled about the waist
> closure of early Renaissance gowns. <snip>


      
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