I agree--I use what I call modern traditional tailoring when making period men's garments. I use hair canvas interfacing and pad stitching (I learned the basics in a women's tailoring class in the early 1970s, and have seen learned some specifics of men's tailoring techniques.) Early 19th century men's coats with M-notch lapels really need to be constructed by sewing the upper collar and undercollar together by hand, wrong sides together, with the seam allowances turned under. (A wool felt undercollar works even better, but 100% wool felt is also getting hard to find.) Sewing right sides together and turning just doesn't work well. Couldn't believe how hard it is getting to find hair canvas--Hancock used to carry it and I was shocked when I went to buy some several years ago and they didn't have it. Have to say, though, that I have used fusible hair canvas, too--I love it for interfacing vent openings, as I don't have to hand stitch those long seams. But I haven't had to buy any of it lately, either, so I don't know how easy it is to find anymore. Also a must for tailoring are a good steam iron and pressing tools--a point presser and ham, at a minimum. Ann Wass In a message dated 12/17/2010 7:16:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, cinbar...@gmail.com writes:
Rather than recommend patterns, let me encourage you to brush up your tailoring skills with "Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring". It's a very small, inexpensive volume aimed at the home/craft seamstress. There are no historical techniques discussed particularly (as least not as far back as Edwardian). It will however, make the difference in how your jackets & coats hang. The info in this book is applicable in both mens & women's tailored costumes. It's applicable in theater, re-enactment & everyday suiting. Most seamstresses just leave out the interfacing in tailored garments and the results can look tragic. You'll also need to order hair canvas, the secret ingredient for any tailored coat. Few shops carry it. I ordered just a bolt of it. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com > On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham <chim...@ravensgard.org> wrote: >> Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... >> >> Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... >> >> >> Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats & vest >> >> Folkwear #222, set of vests >> >> Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) >> >> Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) >> >> >> We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... >> >> Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... >> >> Chimene _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
