hi,
At 19:27 07/03/2013, you wrote:
Hi,
Is this the UPS you have?
http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=br800i&tab=models
Yes that is correct although it does say RS on
mine which is present on the imag if not the title.
The layout at the back and front is the same.
Does this look like the correct manual for it?
http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/ASTE-6Z7V5B/ASTE-6Z7V5B_R0_EN.pdf
I'm just going through what I would check. I'm
not sure of your level of experience and I hope
you don't feel I'm insulting you.
No problem, I could of missed something obvious
so I rather be insulted than miss something :)
On 07/03/13 18:26, Martin N wrote:
Not really convinced yet that it is the battery.
Some times, batteries do go short and prevent
gear from powering up. I recommend you
disconnect the UPS then unplugging the battery.
When you've done that, power the UPS up again.
The manual says that if it is powered up with no
battery, it should chirp and show the green
(power) and red (replace battery) LEDs. If it
doesn't do so with no battery connected, that
eliminates a present battery short as the culprit.
done and no leds light or chirping.
Next, I would eliminate all the silly "D'Oh!"
problems. Check things like there are volts on
the end of the IEC cable and that you're
pressing the power button for the right length
or time. (You did mention holding the button
down. The manual seems to suggest that a short
press is on and a >10 second hold is programming mode)
When you press the power button, do you feel the
switch behind it click? The switch is subject to
mechanical force. Have the solder joints that
fix the switch onto the board broken?
No click.
The button feels ok and doesnt wobbly too much for a cheaply made UPS.
Next I would look for fuses inside and bad
connections (also do a nose-test for "brown
smell"). I always hope things like this are
something simple like loose/corroded
connections, broken wires fractured solder
joints on things like the back of the IEC input.
I know fault finding why a switched-mode
inverter isn't oscillating is beyond me.
I could break it open but googling seems to say
it requires a lot of force as click snap plastic
rather than screws for the front panel.
It also says not too hard as you will remove the led cable.
Leaving me not knowing how hard to try.
I guess with the surge working I dont want to
kill it completely as I can always use it for that.
(I would expect the surge protection on the 2
outlets are better quality than surge on a standard
extension block)
The led cable being detached shouldnt affect the surge protection it provides.
Probably worth a try prizing it off.
thanks for your time
Martin N
Those who would give up essential Liberty, to
purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.
Benjamin Franklin (170690)
--
Please post to: Hampshire@mailman.lug.org.uk
Web Interface: https://mailman.lug.org.uk/mailman/listinfo/hampshire
LUG URL: http://www.hantslug.org.uk
--------------------------------------------------------------
