Isn't a clothes-dryer hose well-matched in size to the computer case fans?
--
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so
certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts.
-- Bertrand Russell
On Jul 29, 2011, at 6:08 PM, David Kelso wrote:
> Thanks for all the feedback guys!
>
> I've decided to convert my two bucket system in to the one bucket
> system (thanks for the link Andreas). I bought that low wattage pump
> too (thanks Richard). And I went with the endless breeze fan (thanks
> Ken).
>
> Last thing to find is a way to get the air into the yurt. I'm hoping
> I'll find a 12" flexible duct somewhere and be able to skip any size
> conversions and just slip it directly over the fan and 5 gal bucket.
>
> david
>
> On Thu, Jul 28, 2011 at 12:09 PM, Steve Upstill <upst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Chasomatic,
>>
>> I'm looking at the Frozen CPU site and they have a buttload of 12V fans. Any
>> clues for getting closer to what you're talking about?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
>> --
>> There is a problem when the turnover in the United States House of
>> Representatives is lower than it was in the Soviet Politburo.
>> -- NATHANIEL PERSILY, election law expert at the University of
>> Pennsylvania Law School
>>
>>
>> On Jul 21, 2011, at 11:39 AM, Chasomatic wrote:
>>
>>> I use the Home Depot bucket style of swamp cooler.
>>>
>>> My pumps come from Harbor Freight and they're Solar powered fountain
>>> pumps for outdoor gardens ($19.95). They have a pressure head of at
>>> least 3 feet and their own solar panel. Net power consumption ZERO!
>>> My fan comes from Frozen CPU, I can't remember the exact numbers right
>>> now but it's specially designed to give a column of air not the normal
>>> dispersal pattern. It draws 0.7 amps to run and puts out around 120
>>> cfm ($31 with shipping). It shoots the air out of the pipe.
>>>
>>> I think my total power use will be about 1.0 (.3 pump+.7 fan) amps per
>>> hour. Last year I didn't run the SC very late into the evening but it
>>> may be hotter this year. Maybe 8.5 watts per hour from my 10 watt
>>> solar panel/battery. It's close, but I may be a balanced power
>>> system.
>>>
>>> My first effort for this year's swamp cooler was a little weak, but I
>>> still have it. Has anyone built a chest from Hexayurt panels to keep
>>> beer cool? I think my small SC would be enough to work but I don't
>>> know how to calculate the potential temperature drop (would it be
>>> worth it?).
>>>
>>> any ideas
>>>
>>> On Jul 10, 8:20 am, Richard Ginn <g...@gii.net> wrote:
>>>> another way to have water flow down over the material is with a large
>>>> reservoir (plastic garbage can) above it that you refill by hand (bucket)
>>>> as
>>>> needed. 50 gallons would trickle down all night maybe?
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:31 AM, ken winston caine <
>>>>
>>>> k...@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:
>>>>> **
>>>>> Pretty amazing amount of pumping for 6 watts, Richard.
>>>>
>>>>> Still, if I'm running it 24 hours a day (along with the fan) during the
>>>>> current 100-plus degree days and high 70s to high 80s nights until about 4
>>>>> a.m. when finally it starts to cool down a little, I'm using 282 watts a
>>>>> day. That's 1/5 of the total electricity I have available each
>>>>> non-overcast
>>>>> day from my solar system. That's a pretty big bite and I can probably
>>>>> afford
>>>>> it only a day or two a week and keep the system healthy.
>>>>
>>>>> It's NOTHING if you're on the grid. And a wonderful savings compared to
>>>>> typical pumps.
>>>>
>>>>> Best,
>>>>> ken winston caine
>>>>
>>>>> P.S. Am going to look into it, anyway. Because it would be really nice to
>>>>> be able to use it if only from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. or so when the inside of
>>>>> my
>>>>> RV heats up into the middle 90s most days this time of year. My
>>>>> self-wicking
>>>>> coolers bring the air right in front of me and on my face down to the mid
>>>>> 80s while I'm working at my desk, which is much more tolerable than mid
>>>>> 90s.
>>>>> But if I could force more water into the pads, and add pads, I could get
>>>>> better cooling.
>>>>
>>>>> Have been meaning to hook up the Kill-a-Watt meter up to an aquarium pump
>>>>> and see what kind of wattage it draws. If it's less than 6 watts, I'll
>>>>> report that here. (Doubt that it will be.)
>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> *From:* Richard Ginn <richardg...@gmail.com>
>>>>> *To:* hexayurt@googlegroups.com
>>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 09, 2011 10:21 PM
>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [hexayurt] Windows and COOLING on the PLAYA
>>>>
>>>>> For 6 watts you can power a 12-volt CPU water cooling pump that is rated
>>>>> at
>>>>> 132 gallons per hour, and then you don't have to wick the water at all:
>>>>
>>>>> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6073/ex-pmp-53/Danger_Den_DD-CPX1_1...
>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:11 PM, ken winston caine <
>>>>> k...@mindbodyspiritjournal.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>> Jack, I've experimented with developing a 7-watt, self-wicking swamp
>>>>>> cooler
>>>>>> that works pretty well.
>>>>
>>>>>> Haven't experimented with EVERY fabric known to man, but did find,
>>>>>> surprisingly, that absorbant paper towels tended to wick better than
>>>>>> about
>>>>>> any cloth fabric I could test.But even., then, they tend to wick up only
>>>>>> about 6 inches above the water surface.
>>>>
>>>>>> What really helps is to hang them with open pleats facing the air source
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> allowing a tiny bit of air space between each hanging wick. That allows
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> air to pass between them a tiny bit. If using a high-efficiency,
>>>>>> low-wattage
>>>>>> 12v fan made for use in RVs and campers, having the open end of the pleat
>>>>>> facing the fan's exhaust also helps the pleats balloon a bit and speeds
>>>>>> evaporation.
>>>>
>>>>>> My design provides 8 to 10 degree cooling for about 5 feet in front of
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> swamp cooler exhaust. So it's a personal cooler, not a room cooler.
>>>>>> Although
>>>>>> it does noticeably help cool the room a tiny bit, so long as you have
>>>>>> fresh
>>>>>> air vents in the room bringing in occasional super dry gusts. That's when
>>>>>> you notice the moisture evaporating in areas of the room other than
>>>>>> directly
>>>>>> in front of the cooler.
>>>>
>>>>>> The more folds of wicking material you can fit in your box (if buidling a
>>>>>> swamp cooler) the more cooling effect you'll get.
>>>>
>>>>>> Have yet to experiment with putting the fan on the top of the box,
>>>>>> ponting
>>>>>> down at the wicks and water tray on the bottom. Am planning to test that
>>>>>> next.
>>>>
>>>>>> Have tried quite a few variations. Have found that the fan BEHIND the
>>>>>> wicks,
>>>>>> blowing air through them, provides better cooling than locating the fan
>>>>>> in
>>>>>> front of the wicks so that it *draws* the air through the wicks.
>>>>
>>>>>> Also have found that having a larger intake opening than exhaust opening
>>>>>> seems to help a bit, too. About a 2::1 ratio has seemed best in my
>>>>>> experiments.
>>>>
>>>>>> You can do these with cardboard boxes and duct tape and rubber maid
>>>>>> shoe-box size plastic containers.
>>>>
>>>>>> The type of fan I use is this:
>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/fan-tastic-endless-breeze-1...
>>>>
>>>>>> I also found at the end of summer about six years ago at a Wal Mart in
>>>>>> Albuquerque a season closeout price on Wal-Mart's "Ozark Trails" version
>>>>>> of
>>>>>> this fan and bought seven of them for $4 each and am using those in two
>>>>>> of
>>>>>> my swamp cooler. They actually use less wattage than the Endless Breeze,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> push slightly less air through, too.
>>>>
>>>>>> May have been four years ago I wrote here about Buckminster Fuller's
>>>>>> proven
>>>>>> "cooling effect," but have not yet heard of anyone experimenting with it
>>>>>> on
>>>>>> the playa with hexayurts.
>>>>
>>>>>> Fuller proved that putting a rain-capped stovepipe in the center of the
>>>>>> roof
>>>>>> of his circular dymation house or at the apex of the roof of a geodesic
>>>>>> dome, and then having open vents about 1 foot above floor level around
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> walls of the building created an amazing, counter-intuitive cooling
>>>>>> effect.
>>>>>> The ratio of low-wall vent airflow capacity to roof vent was about 4 to
>>>>>> 1,
>>>>>> if I recall correctly.
>>>>
>>>>>> What happens -- and Fuller demonstrated this multiple times, including in
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> dome at the equator built for the U.S. military -- is that as the ground
>>>>>> around the building and the walls of the building heat up as the sun
>>>>>> beats
>>>>>> down, this creates a flow of warm air rising around the outside of the
>>>>>> building. That rising air creates suction at the floor level vents,
>>>>>> pulling
>>>>>> air out of the building. That causes a rush of air to be pulled down into
>>>>>> the building through the roof vent.
>>>>
>>>>>> Fuller said this phenomenon extends for hundreds of feet into the air
>>>>>> above
>>>>>> the building. So you have hot air rising in a circle around the building
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> COOL air from higher in the atmosphere hundreds of feet above the
>>>>>> building
>>>>>> being sucked down the center of the invisible column.
>>>>
>>>>>> The cooling effect was commonly reported to be in the range of 20
>>>>>> degrees.
>>>>>> That is, the air coming in through the root pipe and dropping on the room
>>>>>> had an effect of cooling the room by about 20 degrees from its
>>>>>> temperature
>>>>>> with the vents all closed.
>>>>
>>>>>> Pretty amazing. Completely passive (other than opening and closing
>>>>>> vents).
>>>>>> And, other than the initial cost to build (the pvc or stove pipe and rain
>>>>>> cap and dampers), free.
>>>>
>>>>>> I say that this is counter intuitive because normally we expect interior
>>>>>> heat to rise and exit through a roof vent. And normally it does. And that
>>>>>> certainly helps exhaust heat from the room or building. But it doesn't
>>>>>> bring
>>>>>> in a nice, steady, flow of cool air that drops on the room from the
>>>>>> ceiling.
>>>>
>>>>>> Hope that helps inspire someone to experiment and report their results.
>>>>
>>>>>> Best,
>>>>>> ken winston caine
>>>>
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "Jack Senechal" <jacksenec...@gmail.com>
>>>>>> To: <hexayurt@googlegroups.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 3:19 PM
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [hexayurt] Windows
>>>>
>>>>>> I've used metal tape to fix a plexiglass panel to the outside, and it
>>>>>> worked great. You could do two for better insulation, one inside and
>>>>>> one out. And if you have two panels of plexiglass, you can bolt
>>>>>> through them for extra solidity. But I think that might be overkill
>>>>>> for the Playa. Having the cutout in there to block the sun during the
>>>>>> part of the day when it shines in the window directly would probably
>>>>>> be a good idea.
>>>>
>>>>>> Regarding ventilation, I suspect that it would work well to generate
>>>>>> an updraft by installing a black chimney pipe in the roof. That would
>>>>>> draw air up when the sun shines on it, pulling it in through your
>>>>>> vents below.
>>>>
>>>>>> As an added bonus, you could put a damp cloth over the vent so air has
>>>>>> to pass through it, which would cool it down and moisturize the air.
>>>>>> You'd need a course fabric for that, something that's absorbent and
>>>>>> loosely woven so air could pass through well. You could drape the
>>>>>> bottom into a bucket of water, and it would wick it up continuously.
>>>>
>>>>>> I haven't actually tried those ventilation ideas to work out the kinks
>>>>>> yet, but I intend to do that this year. The principles behind it are
>>>>>> sound though :)
>>>>
>>>>>> Jack
>>>>
>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 4, 2011 at 11:20 AM, Milt Fisher <mfisher...@gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> I was planning to tape the filters to the outside after setting up. That
>>>>>>> way
>>>>>>> I could replace the cutouts during dust storms if too much dust came
>>>>>>> through
>>>>>>> the filters.
>>>>>>> Did you just have one filter? Was that enough to provide ventilation?
>>>>>>> On Jul 4, 2011, at 9:44 AM, Steve Upstill <upst...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>> Don't know if you're headed for the Playa, but I liked my hyurt nice and
>>>>>>> dark. I had great results with a furnace filter: cut a hole just small
>>>>>>> enough to hold the filter firmly. Bonus: you can still fold/stack your
>>>>>>> panels.
>>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>> Steve
>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>> Before you criticize a man, walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you
>>>>>>> do
>>>>>>> criticize him, you'll be a mile away and you'll have his shoes.
>>>>
>>>>>>> On Jul 4, 2011, at 9:03 AM, Milt Fisher wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>>> I'd like some recommendations for hexayurt windows. I'm not interested
>>>>>> in
>>>>>>>> framed, sliding windows with screens, just some plastic of some kind
>>>>>>>> taped
>>>>>>>> over a hole in the panel. Any recommendations on what kind of plastic
>>>>>> to
>>>>>>>> use? Thin plexiglas maybe? Or perhaps flexible vinyl?
>>>>
>>>>>>> Any other ideas for simple windows?
>>>>>>> I'm planning to tape the plastic to the outside and hinge the panel
>>>>>> cutout
>>>>>>> into the window opening so we can close it when we want darkness.
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> Milt
>>>>>>> --
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