I don't have photos this moment, but I built a large, spring hinged door on
my standard hexayurt that worked very well.
The best way seems to be cored construction. That is to say, core the door
itself (sandwich ply around the RMAX cutout) and core the jamb and frame.
The big problem to look out for in heavier construction is SAG. The hinges,
if not very strong, will sag and make the whiole thing more difficult to
close and handle.
OR the frame will sage since it is attached to foam, which sags a bit under
load.
So, you really want the door hinge side of the frame to be very well
attached to the foam, if it swings out and to the left, thnen you want the
top left corner to be very well attached and secured to tyhe foam,
sandwiched on both sides by ply and bolted through PVC liners.
So what worked very well for me was to
- reinforce the edges of the entire door with two layers of biaxial
tape, overlapping at least 1" all around on layer one, then 1.5+ on layer
2. Bottom jamb was completely covered with tape and tape extended 1 foot to
each side.
- Left jamb, where the hinges were going to be, was covered in two
layers to 3" in on both sides, so all holes would be going through tape
reinforced points. After this, we are only talking about the LEFT JAMB SIDE.
- Left Jamb Side:
- cut 1" PVC pipe into 1.75" segments ( I was using 2" foam), then
- fill PVC pipe segments with "Great Stuff", and
- trim excess when cured.
- Drill out the center of these to the bolt diameter you are using. I
used 1/4"
- Carefully cut 1" holes into the hexayurt where bolts will go
through. I used 6.
- glue the PVC into place so that it is 1/8" shy of both sides
- sink your bolts through both sides with large washers and secure
tightly.
- Biaxial tape the plywood jamb to the hexayurt panel while closed
and in proper orientation. Use 6" tape. Do this on clean panels and wood
only.
Plywood warps, so if you want to protect it from that, you need to seal it
up with something..I would use 20 minute epoxy mixed with bit of sawdust
on the edges to seal the end grain and some sort of cheap polyurethane
varnish to seal the top grain. Or just latex paint. Just make sure it is
very well sealed with come sort of impermeable coating.
Also make sure your 1" holes through the wall are at least 2" from the
jamb. That is to say, the center of those holes should be at least 2.5"
from the jamb. You want to leave at least as much material there as the
thickness of the panel to prevent tear out.
On Mon, Jul 4, 2016 at 9:16 AM, hal muskat <phoe...@rainbowpuddle.com>
wrote:
> Hi, trying to figure out a better way to reinforce doors. Currently, we
> use 3/8" ply, framed and hinged. The Rmax is now velcroed to the ply. Works
> good but there are issues as the bottom portion of the ply cracks. I am
> looking for a solution to doors that provide support, is hinged and can be
> easily adhered to Rmax.
>
> Wondering about design of a metallic frame in and out, that could be
> bolted together, sandwiching the ply and Rmax and providing for support.
>
> In the photo below, we left approx 7” on the bottom (& is bolted, not
> velcro). Newer doors are at least 12” inch on the bottom but still split.
>
>
> Thanks for any suggestions and feedback, Peace, Hal
>
>
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