Oh by the way, it pays to make the door as light as you can, so use light
fittings and styrofoam for the core of the door to keep its weight down. I
cored mine with styrofoam and covered with 1/4" light ply, using nylon
bolts.

On Tue, Jul 5, 2016 at 11:27 AM, Zyg <saltw...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I don't have photos this moment, but I built a large, spring hinged door
> on my standard hexayurt that worked very well.
>
> The best way seems to be cored construction. That is to say, core the door
> itself (sandwich ply around the RMAX cutout) and core the jamb and frame.
>
> The big problem to look out for in heavier construction is SAG. The
> hinges, if not very strong, will sag and make the whiole thing more
> difficult to close and handle.
>
> OR the frame will sage since it is attached to foam, which sags a bit
> under load.
>
> So, you really want the door hinge side of the frame to be very well
> attached to the foam,  if it swings out and to the left, thnen you want the
> top left corner to be very well attached and secured to tyhe foam,
> sandwiched on both sides by ply and bolted through PVC liners.
>
> So what worked very well for me was to
>
>
>    - reinforce the edges of the entire door with two layers of biaxial
>    tape, overlapping at least 1" all around on layer one, then 1.5+ on layer
>    2. Bottom jamb was completely covered with tape and tape extended 1 foot to
>    each side.
>    - Left jamb, where the hinges were going to be, was covered in two
>    layers to 3" in on both sides, so all holes would be going through tape
>    reinforced points. After this, we are only talking about the LEFT JAMB 
> SIDE.
>    - Left Jamb Side:
>       - cut 1" PVC pipe into 1.75" segments ( I was using 2" foam), then
>       - fill PVC pipe segments with "Great Stuff", and
>       -  trim excess when cured.
>       - Drill out the center of these to the bolt diameter you are using.
>       I used 1/4"
>       - Carefully cut 1" holes into the hexayurt where bolts will go
>       through. I used 6.
>       - glue the PVC into place so that it is 1/8" shy of both sides
>       - sink your bolts through both sides with large washers and secure
>       tightly.
>       - Biaxial tape the plywood jamb to the hexayurt panel while closed
>       and in proper orientation. Use 6" tape. Do this on clean panels and wood
>       only.
>
> Plywood warps, so if you want to protect it from that, you need to seal it
> up with something..I would use 20 minute epoxy mixed with  bit of sawdust
> on the edges to seal the end grain and some sort of cheap polyurethane
> varnish to seal the top grain. Or just latex paint. Just make sure it is
> very well sealed with come sort of impermeable coating.
>
> Also make sure your 1" holes through the wall are at least 2" from the
> jamb. That is to say, the center of those holes should be at least 2.5"
> from the jamb. You want to leave at least as much material there as the
> thickness of the panel to prevent tear out.
>
> On Mon, Jul 4, 2016 at 9:16 AM, hal muskat <phoe...@rainbowpuddle.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hi, trying to figure out a better way to reinforce doors. Currently, we
>> use 3/8" ply, framed and hinged. The Rmax is now velcroed to the ply. Works
>> good but there are issues as the bottom portion of the ply cracks. I am
>> looking for a solution to doors that provide support, is hinged and can be
>> easily adhered to Rmax.
>>
>> Wondering about design of a metallic frame in and out, that could be
>> bolted together, sandwiching the ply and Rmax and providing for support.
>>
>> In the photo below, we left approx 7” on the bottom (& is bolted, not
>> velcro). Newer doors are at least 12” inch on the bottom but still split.
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions and feedback, Peace, Hal
>>
>>
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>

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