>> There are only two bearings on rotor valves. The rotor surfaces do not touch the sides of the valve casing, so it in not necessary to oil inside the valve. Adding oil inside the valve only creates a mess that must be cleaned out or diluted by adding more and more oil. Start by removing the valves and clean them well. Oil only the bearings upon reassembly. Your valves will work quickly and need only very occasional oiling on the top and bottom bearings. Heed Hans' advice and stop over oiling your valves. <<
Boy, I hate to be so contrarian, but I disagree with you, and here's why: Clean and dry rotors are bare metal, both the bearing and facing surfaces. To keep built up particulates and corrosion from the bare metal, a constant film of oil is necessary. Oiling the bearings is necessary to keep the rotors turning centered in the bearings, but oiling the facing surfaces both prevents problems and seals the gap between the rotor and casing. So, there are two good reasons to oil the inside facing surfaces. The important thing is to oil the facing surfaces carefully so as not to cut the heavier grease into the lighter grease. To properly lubricate your horn you need three (and possibly four) lubricants: light oil inside to lubricate the rotor facings, heavier bearing oil, and slide grease. If you have mechanical linkages, you may need a heavy lubricant such as the Hetman Ball Joint, just for that purpose. -- Regards, Dave Weiner Brass Arts Unlimited _______________________________________________ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org